Ridin’ the Rails....Again

Ajaccio, Corsica: In search of Napoleon

Scenic Train at Bastia Station

Rugged inland scenery (taken through dirty train windows...sigh!)

One of the reasons we chose to stop at Bastia was to take the tiny tourist train across Corsica to Ajaccio.  This narrow gauge railway was built in 1897 though has since been modernised -  an appreciated upgrade when travelling through such mountainous gradients.  We decided on the 7.52am train; thankfully the café opposite was open and we tucked into a nice selection of warm croissants - mmmm!  The ride takes you through some perfectly wild scenery although it seems that many spots are threaded by walks (to suit all skill levels).  We, however, stayed on the train.

Inventive signage.
Now we knew we were hot on the trail!

Ajaccio is known as Napoléon’s birthplace and given that his name was widely used – streets, squares, memorials and buildings we guessed that’s what we would be doing.  We had 3 hours before (the return) train departed, so it was a matter of deciding on the most important sites.  Arriving at 11.52 however, is not such a good thing.  Even as we found our way to the pedestrianised Rue Fesch, shops were beginning to close for the long Mediterranean lunch. 

Hams & Salami made from chestnut eating porkers at the local Produce Market

The Marche de Producieurs de Pays (local market) was packing up too but at least we were able to see some fresh local produce, the hams particularly splendid.  I think it has something to do with wild boar surviving in ancient chestnut groves.  (Our language skills are rather poor, particularly having just arrived from Italy, so conversation was limited!)  We’d unfortunately just had brunch too, a less than memorable experience, so sampling pies, cakes, quiches and other tasty morsels was sadly out!

Yes, that's a goat
getting a snooze in too!

Beach beside the Fort
was popular

From the markets we made a dash for the Tourist Office, hoping to find a map and some inspiration.  The recommended city walk (they were clearly used to the train day trippers) was highlighted so we bumbled around to find the Maison Bonaparte which did not open until after 1.30pm.  So it was off to see the old fort (with resident goats and donkeys & not open to the public) and a trek to the Cathedral, said to have paintings by Delacroix and Tintoretto.  Yep, closed too!  

Cathedral - also closed in Ajaccio.  Oh dear, we forgot about Med long lunches!

L'Aiglon in Place Letizia

And another rather attractive sign

On our way back to Maison Bonaparte, we passed Place Letizia where Napoléon took the opportunity to demolish houses for a small square to feature the Georgian house of his birth.  A statue of his son, L’ Aiglon (The Eaglet) stands in this green but rather unkempt area.  (We wondered vaguely how our kids would have liked being called after birds - you know - The Pelican, The Kookaburra or worse, The Emu. I digress...)  The “House” though is well patronised and contains items of interest, yet we felt it lacked a certain panache that perhaps was due to one of history’s most successful military strategists.

Maison Bonaparte Interior - a front sitting room

and Napoléon himself 

There was little time left to see the Musee Fesch.  Cardinal Fesch was Napoléon’s uncle.  He, and  brother Joseph, were the ones enabling Napoléon to purchase the entire house for his family.  In 1799, Napoleon stopped off on his way home from Egypt for a very brief visit to see the house, but was never to return.  The grand Musee (or Palais) Fesch is said to contain France’s most important collection of Italian paintings outside the Louvre.  The train left in 30 mins and we knew it was going to be a struggle to get seats for the long trip back, so instead of the Musee, we purposefully strode down to the station.

Luckily, the Cap’n used his skills (learned in India?) to push ahead and found us seats on this two carriage train - it was too long a journey to stand for 4 hours.  The trip back was just as enjoyable though, the scenery quite splendid with wild empty mountains, thick pine forests and tiny, remote villages promising “very quiet holidays”.  The train stopped at 40, mostly rural, villages along this route - it makes for a very long day! 

Remote village along the rail line

& another very quiet station too.

As a post script, it is worth noting that Dorothy Carrington, an eminent author, also lived in Ajaccio.  She used her time to investigate history and ethnography of this once wild and isolated island (I’m guessing well before any tourist boom) documenting her findings into compelling travel books.  I was lucky to lay my hands on a copy of “The Dream Hunters of Corsica” a 1999 published study of occult practices peculiar to the island that date back, certainly well before Christian times.  Her contribution to recording a practice so easily lost is exceptional.  She also wrote about Napoléon; “Napoléon and his Parents on the Threshold of History” if you’re keen to follow up on his history.  For those interested in Art facts, Dorothy Carrington was married for a time (1942-1966) to painter, Sir Francis Rose.