Grand Designs Norwegian Style

Lillehammer, Norway. 

Inside Garmo Stave Church

Lillehammer is relatively flat, which came as quite a surprise given its history as a site for Winter Olympics (1994). Not that we know anything about winter or winter sports!   Any ideas we had of visiting the Olympic facilities however were put to rest as the town was busy preparing for its next challenge post–tourist season, the 2016 Youth Olympics. 

We had however, arrived to other celebrations – the start of the Uni year, when newbies are learning their drinking capabilities on one wild night.  We were warned by the hotel and the restaurant of this fearsome and noisy beast, but hardly heard a thing or noted any miscreant behaviour.  Having been young ourselves once, we knew what to look for.

If only we could remember that far back!

Garmo Stave Church, Maihaugen

Rather than mixing it with the young ones (who were probably relieved, sigh!), we took off to the living history museum, Maihaugen for a few hours – the perfect opportunity to see inside period homes.  Maihaugen began its life as a cultural collection of Anders Sandvig, a dentist who saw the value in preserving Norwegian buildings and folk items for posterity.  His collection grew and was eventually settled in its present location in 1904 under the city’s management, with Sandvig becoming curator.  There are now some 200 buildings, spread between three specific “themes’ (rural, town and residential), all beautifully set out and furnished in authentic period style.

First we stopped at the guest centre to view “We Won the Land” – a summary of Norway’s history.  From there we walked our way through a number of exhibits.  Perhaps the most interesting was the Garmo stave church for the story of Sandvig’s sleuthing to find it, piece by piece and the oldest “farm settlement” Oygarden, with its winter and summer residences, lots of animal shelters & food storage areas and even a house for the old folks.  On such a warm summer day, it made it hard to visualise life in Norway’s cold and snow.

Post Office & to-die-for cars, Maihaugen

And a few domestic items.  GS wanted that
sewing machine for WJ3 - no electricity necessary

Some of us then took the opportunity to view another residence, Bjerkebaek, once the home of Sigrid Undset (1882-1949).  Undset is Norway’s most famous female author and her novel trilogy “Kristin Lavransdatter” set in Medieval Norway sold world-wide.  She also received the Nobel Prize for Literature (from an all-male selection panel) in 1928 and was the third woman to have achieved this significant acknowledgement. 

She lived quite well from her earnings as an author and managed to raise three children on her own. Her home was furnished in the sparse Arts & Crafts style and reflected her many travel experiences.  Yes, she even had a collection of American quilts!  The summer garden was a late-summer delight and quite large, so a good “Grand Designs” day was has by all.

For those interested, Norwegian (well, really Scandinavian) style can best be summed up as a relaxed, pared back country style.  It reflects a love for the great outdoors and good design and is probably best known to us through the Marimeko label (a Finnish design) and even a language I speak well, Swedish Ikea.  Gudren Sjoden, a clothing and textile designer, has a Norwegian range that is quite beautiful. Be prepared to spend time exploring Scandi designers....

Sadly, this was to be our last day in Norway.  We bid this delightful country farewell and moved on, in holiday mood, to the Swedish lakes district and the town of Mora.

 

 

Meeting Vikings

Gudvangen, Norway

Having our fill of city life, it was time to move on to the Gudvangen camping grounds (well glamping, actually) at the base of the Songnefjord.  In the Viking era, Gudvangen, meaning “God’s place by the water” was a Viking settlement and an important market area.  In the 12^th c, the black plague decimated the entire population.  (Apparently the Brits carried this dreadful disease with them, unintentionally of course, to Bergen on a sailing ship!)  

Our host was a Viking, with a less than blood-curdling name.  And a pet Chihuahua!  But we forgave him as he’d arranged a wonderful tour of the area for us in his mini-bus. 

Our camping ground at Gudvangen was set in lush green fields amidst the most amazing scenery yet.  The lack of noise, other than the thunderous crash of waterfalls, was exceptional and the air so, so fresh and so, so crisp.   

Our camp offered a close & personal view of the Kjelsfossen waterfall with a spectacular rainbow - just for our viewing pleasure - as we sat outdoors eating our dinner.  If we got bored with that waterfall, then there were plenty more cascading down the mountains to gaze at. 

We settled into cosy cabins then prepared for our next hike.  Oh yes, Sanni, our tour leader had another short hike in mind…

We started our tour with the best vantage point of the Naeroy Valley, the Stalheim Hotel which, in 1647, was a postal stop on the Oslo to Bergen mail route.  Eventually in 1855, a hotel was opened on the site, however current buildings date from 1959 due to serious fire.  During WW2, the hotel was occupied by Germans and set up as a home for children born as a result of “the occupation of Norway”. 

From the hotel, we passed the Per Sivle Memorial (a Norwegian Poet, 1857 – 1904) and took a spin down the Old Kings Road section with its memorable hairpin bends and 20% gradient, for a quick stop (and a short, warm up hike) to the Stalheimsfossen waterfall. 

Hmmm, our camping trip was turning decidedly physical!

 

Then, at a point some 5km beyond the Gudvangen ferry terminal, our Viking host abandoned us; though it was a pleasant stroll indeed, feasting on wild berries, meeting lots of interesting locals, including some elusive seals and taking rather too many photographs along the edge of the fjord. 

We made it back to the camp in time for a fantastic feast of local salmon, buttered potatoes and fresh salad prepared, in the Norwegian way, by the ever-energetic Sanni.

From Horse Whispering

to JUST plain annoying

Our stay in this Eden ended with a 2 hour cruise by ferry, with yet more breathtaking scenery, along the fjords to Flam (said Flom).  Here, once we'd made our way past a couple of cruise ship's worth of people, we caught the bus to Lillehammer.  This was the perfect opportunity to rest our weary legs, recharge our camera batteries and for our leader, time to devise even more exercise opportunities.  

When does it stop?  View from the ferry as we glided silently through the fjord...

 

More Fishing Tails

Bergen, Norway.  More Bergen for Beginners

Our shy Leopard Seal friend

We couldn’t resist a ride on the small putt-putt boat that transported us across the harbour to the Fisheries Museum (Norges Fiskerimuseum).  Here we met with Silja, the herring (yeah, yeah! It was fun) and were led on a discovery into the lives of fishermen over the years and the development of fish farming, amongst many other interesting fishy facts.  Yes indeed, even more dried cod! 

The museum is housed in old warehouses, two of which have been positioned over water as this area had once been known as the “Venice of the North”.  (We understand this was to reduce the labour intensive activity of rowing stockfish into shore-side warehouses.  One can't help but wonder how aromatic the port area once was...)

A Navy Band was in town - we're not sure why...

The Fisheries Museum didn’t have any real life sea-life and we had a hankering to see a real cod, in its undried, swimming state.  So, off to the Aquarium (Akvariet), just in time for penguin feeding, to seeing sea-lions making merry at show time and meeting a shy leopard seal.  Don’t tell Silja – her herring relatives were part of their diet!  So we did the rounds, finding a few friends from home (snakes, lizards etc) before discovering the major tanks which hold a wide variety of local fish.  This came in handy as we walked the dock searching for the Fisketorget (Fish Market).   

This too is quite the spectacular show of all things fishy AND edible…  Finally we made a decision and settled for a huge mixed plate of Alaskan crab, Stone crab, cold water lobster, mussels and scampi (prawns).  Am I missing anything?  The Stone crab bit back however, giving Cap’n Claw yet another scar in the line of duty. 

 

We also managed to find Pingvinen, a restaurant for our group dinner.  It showcased local flavours, though we skipped the Plukkfisk and wondered about cooking dried cod in lye.  Apparently this is a local delicacy and the prerogative of grandmothers to force on their grandkids!  We happily chose smoked pork (Lapskaus) and Cured Lamb served with buttered crisp bread. 

So there you have it – it’s really all about the FISH! 

Hey, that's not your catch of the day!

Fishing for Compliments

Bergin, Norway.  Bergen for Beginners

Oh look, more boats!  The Cap'n was in love...

After that stunning train ride, we arrived in Bergen; it was all aglow in summer sunshine.  Situated on the edge of fjordland, Bergen is a most attractive city with a long & interesting history.  Whilst here, the activity options were extensive – hiking trails galore, fjord cruises and history enough for any enthusiast, but we chose to follow the fish.

Bergen started as a small settlement on an ice-free harbour protected from ferocious North Seas by a chain of islands.  King Olav Kyrre* formally founded the city of Bergen in 1070.  Prosperous from its fishing and grain trading, it later became the designated capital of Norway (1217).

The Bryggens Museum is built over the remains of that first settlement and on the site of devastating 1955 wharf fires.  Excavations have since revealed rich findings adding to an understanding of Bergen’s function as a trading port from its earliest years (and the incredible size and value of its stockfish industry).  The museum also houses an astonishing collection of runic inscriptions on wood and bone found in the area. Whilst some translate to a function of trade, others (“Gyda tells you to go home”) reveal a touching human side to life of those times.

It was all about the fish - dried fish

Export of cod and dried stockfish** started in 1110 and quickly grew establishing Bergen as one of Northern Europe’s largest trading centres.  This prosperity attracted German merchants (1343) who quickly formed the Hanseatic League. 

They lived in their own quarter of the city, had firm rules of conduct – both business and personal life and soon grew sufficiently powerful to dominate most of the maritime trade function in Bergen. The League was created to protect economic interests and diplomatic privileges of its merchant members along trade routes that stretched from the North Sea to the Baltic. 

This powerful League survived until 1800.

From the Bryggens Museum, Rudi, our guide led us past St Mary’s Church (Mariakirken), the oldest building in the city and once used by rich Hanseatic League merchants, through to the Assembly Halls.  These dark rooms provided merchants and their apprentices convenient and warm working and meeting space during long, bitter winter months.  Here they exchanged information, taught skills, carried out court functions and ran centralised kitchens for hot meals.  Fires were only allowed in these buildings.

Many of the buildings in the port area were constructed from timber.  Fire was a major hazard and reduced warehouses and parts of the city to ashes on a number of occasions over the years.  A series of bouts of the Black Death (plague) also had a disastrous effect on the city’s population.

Hanseatic League Assembly Hall

From the Assembly Halls, we were led down to the timber warehouses; many now with a second life, serving as a popular haunt for tourists.  One warehouse though, retaining its 1704 interior and stuffed with a previous owner’s massive collection, has been set up as a museum and offers a fascinating glimpse into the almost monastic lives of Hanseatic  stockfish merchants.

Cupboard with secret stairs to the bedroom 

The Wife?

The Other Woman?

*Out of interest, King Olav Kyrre was the son of King Harald Hardrada, who died at the battle of Stamford Bridge, Great Britain in 1066.  This battle traditionally ends the Viking era.

**Fish was dried before salt became readily available as a food preservative.  I might add that it has an interesting aroma all of its own...

Visiting Fjordland

Bergen, Norway

The Oslo to Bergen Rail is said to be one of life’s grand experiences.  Our journey took us up and over Norway’s highest peak at Finse (altitude:1222m) where snow was still visible on the ground then through Myrdal and Vloss.  It is said it is possible to see the blue ice of Hardangerjokul Glacier (to the southwest) though I’m not sure anyone recognised it…  Just so you're fully informed, this rail line runs at the highest altitude in Europe. 

So, as pictures tell more than words, here are (quite) a few shaky ones to see how amazing that view really was…

(GS decided to experiment with her polarising lens during this particular journey.  The result, like her mood at the end, was rather black & purple...and still lots of reflection from the train windows.  Oh well, and thank goodness for mobile phone cameras, isn’t it?)

Meeting A Few Locals

Oslo, Norway.  Be A Little Bit Athletic

We were exhausted by the mere thought of a strenuous walk up the hill to the Holmenkollen (ski jump) after our previous days of “hikes" around town, yet we did it.  So much for peer group pressure and a young, fit tour leader!  Sunday was spent admiring the impressive 360° view over Oslo from the top (accessed via lift) although we were equally impressed by the reserved folk who zip-lined down that shiny steel slope – a little singing before push-off maybe, and certainly no screams or shouting heard either...  

This is the quick way down...no thanks!

On the way down, (the slow way, in the lift!) we stopped briefly to take in the world’s oldest ski museum, take a photo of a huge (stuffed) polar bear & moose and admire the skinny ski pants worn so successfully by Norwegian girls. 

 

If your head is spinning at our fast-paced itinerary, then be aware we’ve only skimmed the surface.  Oslo has museums and attractions enough to satisfy even the most demanding visitor. 

The whole process made so much easier with our Oslo Passes…worth every cent, even if we did have to queue for 40 minutes to buy them!  Sightseeing out of the way then, it was time to move on to shopping and eating – more favourite pastimes in Oslo.  We did our best. 

This fellow to the left, attractively dressed in glass bottles, was in the Mini Bottle Gallery. 

And of course, down near the dock we found an India Mela in full swing featuring both Bolly and Reggae (music).  As an added attraction, this amazingly decorated truck was parked to one side. 

 

Sailing for the Rugged Outdoors

Oslo, Norway.  A Maritime Influence

The sailor within was summonsed and dutifully we responded.  In these surroundings, It was hard not to.... 

Oslo’s history goes back to Viking days (787-1070), so we boned up (sorry!) on the history of these intrepid seafarers at the Viking Museum.  The Vikings once controlled half of Britain, managed to reach Newfoundland and Ireland, and also find the Med.   All in big open rowing boats.  You can’t help but be impressed. 

The three royal burial barges at the Museum were, with a surprising amount of burial goods, only fairly recently discovered (1904-05).  Items vary from leather shoes to intricately carved wheeled wagons, including horses and bullocks. 

Interestingly, the best preserved and most elaborate was Oseberg, the burial conveyance for a Viking Queen. Although this elaborate craft was buried in 834 AD, it may well date from 800 AD.  Some of the elaborately carved items found with it, including two sleighs, were quite amazing, both in their delicate carving and in their condition after so many years.   

Viking Leather Boots

The Cap’n was up for more things maritime so he continued exploring options offered over on the lushly rural Bygdoy Peninsular. 

The Kon-Tiki Museum presents an insight into Thor Heyerdahl’s epic ocean voyages; firstly on the basic, balsa raft, Kon-Tiki (1947), followed by papyrus reed boats (1970).  His intent was to track migratory voyages of ancient peoples across the Pacific. 

The Fram Museum is everything polar.  Centre stage is given to Fram, a famous polar exploration ship, built in 1892; serious construction for a serious environment. However the supporting act, all things to do with polar expeditions, proved equally fascinating.  The Gjoa, in 1906, was the first ship to transit the Northwest Passage.  Adventurous stuff in most inhospitable environments! 

Pretty summer cabins on one of the many islands that dot Oslo's harbour

The Maritime Museum (can there ever be too much about boats?) was next on the list to grasp Norway’s leading role as a shipping nation and in particular, maritime exploration.  The panorama video of Norway’s famous coastline completely captivated the Cap’n. 

Finally, we took a quick spin around the inner harbour (of the vast Oslofjord) on a mini-cruise on a rather splendid antique sailing craft.  Were we looking at prospective marina or a replacement for WJ3 then?

We were I think, sailing on the back of one very fine Indian summer.  Would it last?  Who knows - but we had great hopes.  Although sailing the Baltic has perhaps been removed from our list given that we'd rather complain about the heat than the cold!

Akershus Fortress (1290) built to protect Oslo