Myths 'n Other Things

Paros, Greece

We’ve all seen them haven’t we?  Those glossy photos about sailing in Greece – perfect visibility, warm days, balmy nights and calm, deep blue waters.  This is our version of Greek Island cruising.

View over our anchorage in Pylos

Pylos was a wonderful introduction.  We were full of hope.  As we worked our way east, we were gently introduced to the foibles of weather systems in this area.  Hmmm…  Rounding Cape Maleas was a dream - early in the morning!  Then we met the Meltemi – head on.  Gentle in the early morning, building to something fierce by mid-day, dying in the evening.  In some places, replaced by nightly & often, not-so-gentle, katabatic winds. Anchoring was always a weather gamble.

Octopus Salad on the menu in Ermioni

Our float plan fell apart, several times.  We decided to make north; the latest scheme being to run with the winds behind us as we crossed the Aegean Islands to Turkey.  We hugged, full of hope, to the Peloponnese Peninsular and ended up, for respite, in Porto Kheli.   Next stop, Ermioni was unsettled.  Battered by land breezes during the day (to 30kts) and a rough swell at night (not to mention an “occupation” by a French Fleet and Sail Med Rally – full of 20-35 sweet young things), we stayed on only to catch the hydrofoil to Idra (Hydra) for a day trip.

Idra (four-legged taxis & blinding white houses)

The plan had been to leave Ermioni and sashay our way over to Kithnos, perhaps further. Not so! Our cantankerous Meltemi found us; on the nose again.  Our selected anchorage had more in common with a washing machine, so we rounded the cape and made for Poros instead.  Ah, Poros – home to at least 200 boats, so it had to be a weather escape.  It was, and we recouped over a quiet beer at a waterfront taverna. 

Delightful Poros

Full of confidence, we decided to make a run for Siros.  That lasted 10 minutes…  The Meltemi was furious and eventually GS begged for mercy (a real bucket day it was too!).  Our trusty skipper took us into Kithnos for shelter where we proceeded (twice) to give a doubtful display of anchoring in a rocky cove.  Our trusty anchor winch is still not talking to us…  Further in, by a sandy beach, we at last set the anchor.  Over dinner we hatched yet another plan to travel in the quiet of the night (read: in NO wind).  That was fine whilst we were in the lee (shelter) of the island.  Between rough conditions and vast numbers of other shipping afloat, our Brave Cap’n, stood watch all night.  So, here we are in Paros, recuperating and preparing for another night (or two) before we reach Turkey.

Our neighbours in Paros. They didn't wave as they flew by

Let’s hope things improve, otherwise that large cruise ship at anchor with us here in the bay might just have another passenger or two.  So, anyone contemplating a little Greek sojourn with us had better think again.  Certainly never agree to July or August…..  

Monastery in what was once a secluded location - not now!

PS. Conditions did not improve.  The Cap'n made yet another overnight solo sail all the way through to Pserimos, whilst GS continued to heave ho below decks - despite the Meltemi easing somewhat as we made east.  The Cyclades Islands (obviously named after summer’s cyclonic conditions) provided us with choppy seas, a short, steep swell and confused wind patterns.  Never again… ;-)

From:  Porto Kheli, Greece Lat/Long: 37:19.409N 23:08.975E Date/Time: 4/08/13: 0830

To: Pserimos, Greece Lat/Long: 36:56.165N 27:09.179E Date/Time: 10/08/13: 1710
Time Taken: 262.5nm (40hrs) Distance (this year): 2234nm (356hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13059nm   Weather: NE to NW  15-25kts; G to 30kts
Fastest Speed: 7.5kts; a bumpy, rollicking ride

Meltemi Moments

Peloponnese Peninsular, Greece

Nice evening view over the Kalamata Marina from Yachting Café

Having extracted ourselves from hedonistic marina life, we ambled down the Mani coast, one the fingers of land that make up the Peloponnese Peninsular.  There is no doubt that the scenery is dramatic; GS snapping away at every rock or mountain that made a promising picture. (Warning to all who suffer our slide show overkill, this year is likely to produce yet another one.) 

Punting through the Caves of Diros

We made the Caves of Diros (Pyrgos Dhirou) by lunchtime and decided, given both the Guide & Pilot’s glowing reviews, we would stop for the experience.  By 2.30pm we had walked and punted our way through 1500m of underground waterways and caves brimming with ceilings of frosted stalactites – with obligatory commentary in Greek….  We were permitted to walk through some areas of these truly memorable caves, lingering at the exit, if only to maximise time in natural air-conditioned comfort.   In some of the caves, archaeologists had found evidence of prehistoric settlement.  We could only imagine how surreal these caves must have been to them, invoking mystery and magic.  Is it any wonder that nearby Cape Tainaron is home of the mythical Gates of Hades?  And of course, where driven muscle man, Hercules captured Cerberus, to complete his twelfth and final labour!

WJ3 on the hook (behind the fishing fleet) Diros Caves

With a nasty swell coming into Caves bay we decided to round Cape Tainaron instead to seek shelter in a well-protected and cute Porto Kayio, meaning Bay of Quails.  I’m not so sure that any self-respecting quail would live in these strange, sparse mountains but it seems that plenty of brothers do.  From their perch high up, they must only wonder at the worldly goings on in the four modest beach-side tavernas lining the cove.  And laugh, as the yachts at anchor are pelted all night long by katabatic winds sweeping down from the mountains.

Porto Kayio (Quail Bay)

Our next stop was Elafonissos, an isolated island with abundant clear turquoise waters and very little sea life.  This did not stop an influx of visitors, winnebagos and seasonal resorts.  It’s high season after all!  An overnight stop here put us well up with the ways of the Meltemi too, a wind system something ordinary tourists don’t have to worry about.  We were up bright and early after one of us didn’t sleep well, to round fearsome Cape Maleas, whose reputation even Ulysses feared.  (Well, it did blow him off course for some ten years!).  We rounded it in complete calm, waving at the brothers up high in their secluded monastery and annoying local fishermen by going too close to their traps. 

Do you think the Brothers saw us waving?

Our destination was the rocky fortress of Monemvasia, a Gibraltar-like natural fortress built by the Byzantines in 6^th c.  We had great plans of climbing up to Ayia Sofia with its reputed magnificent views over the countryside and Aegean waters.  Sadly, GS had taken the fast way into the anchor locker, and in doing so had scraped a shin and twisted her ankle.  Walking was not on the agenda, so Monemvasia was added to the growing “later list”.   

Monemvasia

We reflected on the mysteries of Greek weather systems, as allusive as mythological gods, whilst holed-up in another small bay, firstly hiding from the Meltemi and then setting up the riding sail (to prevent swinging on anchor) to counter forceful katabatic blasts. All from different directions!   Little wonder then, we set off in the early morning calm for better shelter (and provisioning) at Porto Kheli (or Heli or Helios…  There are at least 3 or more ways of spelling Greek names – bear with us.).

This is water 20 feet deep (with various watery pug marks)
looking down from the back of WJ3 at Elafonissos

 

From:  Kalamata, Greece Lat/Long: 37:01.446N 22:06.327E Date/Time: 29/07/13: 0815

To: Porto Kheli, Greece Lat/Long: 37:19.409N 23:08.975E Date/Time: 1/08/13: 1400
Time Taken: 153.5nm (27hrs) Distance (this year): 1971.5nm (316hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 12796.5nm   Weather: NE (day); SW perhaps (at night) 
Fastest Speed: 7.5kts;

Internet Deprivation Indeed

Kalamata, Greece

Kalamata is the kind of place you pull in to do a few chores.  It's restful, obliging and friendly - just like Pylos!  It is also a useful base to travel into the Peloponnese Peninsula and visit assorted historic treasure troves.  Better still, it’s a repository of cruising folk (and olives!).  So here we sit, having extended for another day.  Why?  Well, it’s Sunday and even less happens here on a Sunday than any other country we’ve been to.

We’ve also decided that as a general rule we will stay a minimum of 3 nights in a marina.  (It has only taken 6 years to arrive at this float plan condition.)  Our check-in day is about accepting bureaucracy with good grace and humour (Marina, Port Police &/or Customs).  Then we must attend to the duties of setting up for marina life.  The awning, passerelle (our gangplank), electricity, water and trusty bikes are attended to & set up. 

Our next day is filled with chores.  We refuel if we can.  Greece has a system of fuel coming to you, even on the dock, in mini-tankers.  Otherwise, we re-fuel before settling into our berth on Day 1.  We take on water, do the washing, shop for groceries and find a chandler to satisfy an itch for boat bits.  We clean WJ3 inside and out, relishing in having electricity to vacuum (and run the toaster!).  We take time for “loooong” showers and, once presentable (meaning smell ok), eat out at a restaurant.  Isn’t it the simple things that give pleasure?

Another lighthouse on another impossibly rocky cape

That leaves our last day for reading, relaxing and blogging.  If we have internet….. Another of our wee challenges.  Sufficient bandwidth (for our laptops) is rare.  Uploading photos – forget it!  Hence the somewhat ill-mannered bulk posting we’ve done lately – spelling & grammatical errors included!  Post now, sort it out later…  Photos?  Still crashing the system…. 

We thought we had solved our internet dilemma.  In each country we’ve purchased a Vodafaone data dongle and it’s worked well – until now… (Yes, yes, you would think that there would be one system EU wide, but not so. We have a boat full of mobile phones and data dongles from almost every country we’ve visited!!!)  The dongle we purchased in Greece, from a reliable shop-front (not Vodafone), turned out to be HOT!  Now the company won’t touch it or refund our money – yet!!!  The Cap’n is working on solving this issue by being pleasant, persistent and persuasive.  He’s very good at driving people nuts so we’re expecting results soon….

For my birthday?  Noooo, you shouldn't have.....

Lastly, if the local area offers unmissable sightseeing opportunities we might just add on a few extra days, especially if it involves overnight stays.  The Cap'n is not good at leaving his other woman unattended, especially so on anchor.  

 

From:  Pylos, Greece Lat/Long: 36:55.324N 21:42.073E Date/Time: 26/07/13: 0700
To: Kalamata, Greece Lat/Long: 37:01.446N 22:06.327E Date/Time: 26/07/13: 1315
Time Taken: 41nm (6hrs) Distance (this year): 1818nm (289hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 12643nm   Weather: SW 3-5kts avg; Hot! Hot! Hot!
Fastest Speed: 6.1kts; very calm so mostly motoring. Fuel is slightly cheaper (perhaps we should consider flying instead?)

It's All Greek to Me

Pylos, Greece

Pylos Town Square

As we sat enjoying the hospitality of Pylos, and having not done terribly much in the way of planning for our “Greek” leg, one thing became blatantly obvious. We can't stay!

GS had prepared a basic, direct to Turkey float plan but guide books being guide books recommended so much to see and do that two weeks was going to be totally inadequate.  That was all the time left on our Schengen clock this year.  So, we were going to have to be mercenary.  That meant putting together a list of all the “must do” sites.  Greece is overwhelming in this aspect.  

Her current plan calls for about 15 years of combing crumbling ruins, admiring robust cathedrals, watching traditional festivals, lusting after whitewashed cottages set in olive groves and appreciating art in countless museums.  Not to mention that our friend, Hercules, completed no less than seven of his famous Labours right here on the Peloponnese Peninsular…  And we have only 14 days to be out of Schengen areas (this year).  So you understand our dilemma.

View over Neo Kastro

Whilst digesting this challenge, we thought we should take a morning to roam the old (new) fort in town.  Now Pylos commands about two pages in the Guide, most of which is taken up with a map of the area.  “We’re safe”, we thought.  No taxing demands on our turistico-ing itinerary. Wrong! 

Only one way down... at least it's fast!

Pylos is a pretty little town set around a wide main square full of sheltering plane trees, outdoor restaurants and friendly people.  We had not explored far before coming across another Sydney resident – as you do.  Then, after a breakfast of mouth-watering pastries, we prepared for the climb up the hill to explore the medieval castle, Neo Kastro.  Built by the Turks in 1572, it changed hands several times, including duty as a prison for locals, an apparently murderous lot.  Now its pine scented grounds and restored battlements are the perfect site for an archaeological museum of underwater finds. 

Neo Kastro has perfect views over Navarino Bay too.  It’s hard to imagine this was the location of a famous sea battle - Battle of Navarin (1820), which sealed Greek independence and an end to Turkish control. The waters are said to be full of wrecks from the Turkish fleet and make great diving.  Cap’n Diver Dan bought a weight belt in anticipation.  Archaeologists believe that Navarino Bay is also the harbour of Mycenaean King, Nestor.  His ships were part of the great fleet sent to Troy (1220BC).

Looking north over Navarino Bay towards Nestor's Harbour

Neo Kastro's dungeons perhaps?

From our vantage point we hoped to see substantial ruins of another castle and acropolis, all that remains of Ancient Pylos.  One of the most famous battles of classical times was fought here in 425BC.  During the Peloponnesian War, an Athenian force took on a group of Spartans, warriors of repute.  Uncharacteristically, the Spartans surrendered.

Mythical Greece features too.  Near Ancient Pylos, in the rocky hillside, is Nestor’s Cave.  This is where Nestor & Neleus kept their cows - according to Odysseus.  And why would you not believe him!  In this same cave, Hermes hid Apollos’s cattle.  

Have we discovered an ancient city? (15-20ft down)  Sure!

So the lesson is… not to panic.  There is so much history in the Med it easy to be overwhelmed.  You want to cram; you want to see it all!  (Our Cap’n groans…)  However, there is often more than enough right in front of you.  Sometimes it pays to take on less popular options; the less travelled route if you will.  It is uplifting to stand in the small Neo Kastro museum with few, mostly local visitors and be nose-to-nose with exhibits; all minor but none-the-less superb examples of ancient Greece.

A few bats loose in someone's belfry...

Bah Humbug!

Pylos, Greece
  
Sitting on anchor in Pylos, our first Greek port of call after a whirlwind tour through the Med, I’m tempted to hurl a sharp missive to three soothsayers, visitors to the Deltaville Boatyard (USA, 2010).

Bahamas' in 2009 - early days

Let me set the scene.  There we were, at the far end of the boat yard, up on spindly legs getting ready to splash.  Afternoon visitors to the yard were not uncommon and three stopped by for a chat.  Actually, they stopped to highlight Hunter’s foibles, especially as they saw it, only built to suit coastal conditions they said.  Like Witches of Endor, they stirred the pot, making even more outrageous dispersions against Hunter, ignoring our rebuttal.  (Who dared even consider what their own personal sailing stories were?)

Sines, Portugal 2011 after crossing the Atlantic

Finally, they left.  “Rude,” we said in unison.  Had they bothered to listen, WJ3 had already done two laps of the Caribbean Islands, sailed to distant Turks Caicos and managed a tour through remoter Bahamas Islands.  All this before settling on the scenic route to Chesapeake Bay (via the Atlantic ICW). We were on our way to explore Maine.  Hardly dock candy, even then!

So, as we sit on anchor in Greece, about to island hop to Turkey, we say to them bah humbug!  WJ3 has 12,598 nautical miles tucked under her belt since we started sailing her in 2008.  She has now crossed the Atlantic, comfortably and safely, and this year the Mediterranean.  What a gal!  And not bad for an allegedly “unseaworthy” Hunter!

A late insert.  We've now made it to Bodrum, Turkey (2013)

Now I’m not advocating setting out to sea in a pair of floating shoes (Mind, it’s been done before!) but boat builders must comply with certain standards.  We’ve also added modifications to make WJ3 more comfortable (eg. a storm trysail) and to improve her safety (eg a sea anchor).  Check our Hunter460 blog for improvements/annual maintenance reports. 

If in doubt about your own boats seaworthiness, have it professionally surveyed and read how others have set up for ocean passages.  Beth Leonard's famous  book would make a good start.  We’ve seen expensive Beneteaus kept in marinas for Olympic triangle racing and home-made brutes only a mother could love, floating in out of the way places.  Doubting Thomas’s can check our map tracker here.

(Sorry, had to get that one off my chest!)