Eating Humble Pie

Rodney Bay Marina (still), St Lucia

Dear Friends,

Specifically, those who have commented on our blogs and never been answered, we send to you our most humble apologies.  Having managed our blogs for some 17 years now, the Galley Slave/Blog Manager has only just stumbled upon the Comments section.  Here lie many missives, that until now, have mostly sat forlorn and unnoticed.  This apology also extends to you too Alexandra, one of our most loyal readers.  Oh dear!  

Our Galley Slave has just finished revitalising the now ageing blogs.  A perfect job indeed when on hurricane watch sitting in a marina for a few months.  Low season maintenance tasks!  We have six blogs to manage, with only two connected to our regularly accessed, email accounts.  These are the busiest blogs, although I hasten to add that none of them are appearing in any top ten popularity lists (just yet!).  That’s fine with us; we’re not in it for glory, money or bow-bunny pix.  We started our blogs as an easy way of keeping contact with family and friends as we moved about and to have journals to remind us, in our dotage, of “our wilful youth.”  They are also a way for us to participate in and share with our communities.  The Cap’n writes of his boat maintenance efforts and GS, her travel, textile and other arty stuff finds.  Our Cap’n is also a big fan of the Cruiser net community.  Many a problem has been thus solved.  

Thank you all for your efforts to engage us.  We shall endeavour to be more attentive and prompt in the future.  Always learning!  And a big thank you to everyone who reads and enjoys our adventures.

Saturday, 9th November, is nearly upon us.  WJ3's nose will then be pointed north, after a couple of days acclimating in Rodney Bay, to the hardship of wind, swell and waves.  We heard it was snowing in the US already... Just whose idea was this?  

Shellfish grow at an alarming rate in our sea-water plumbing

Hunter Moon over Rodney Bay

Rodney Bay Marina, St Lucia

Well, we just can’t seem to get those dock lines loosened from WJ3’s cleats right now!  Here in the Rodney Bay Marina, under the Hunter moon, we’re having a real-life “Hotel California” moment.  That involves watching the weather daily, with fingers crossed; hoping weather systems, still rocketing off the African coast, don’t develop into something nasty.  Unfortunately, USA’s south eastern states, particularly Florida, have been really copping it.  Also, we’ve heard little on how Grenada & St Vincent and the Grenadines are doing with their recovery from Beryl.  There’s not been much traffic passing through the marina since we’ve been here.  Everything takes time and life in this part of the world seems to have reached a low-season standstill.

Here in the North, this is known as the Hunter Moon.
Bright enough for the last night hunt before winter sets in.

November is thankfully, the last month of Hurricane season.  However, we are counting days down to the end of October and monitoring...  That said, there can be the odd December ’cane spin up.  So, if all settles down, our plan (which changes daily!!) is to make the leap north to Pointe-à-Pitre, Guadeloupe in mid-November.  Here, we’ll take a short break to catch our breath, seek out all those delicious French foods (and champagne), and once we’ve seen what’s predicted for Nov/Dec, begin the slow, slog north. 

Life in the marina has been a life of idyll – happy, peaceful, and simple.  We’ve kept ourselves busy doing stuff, as long as it’s mostly in air-conditioned comfort.  One of the joys of being dockside!  We have hardly ever made use of the aircon but it’s been a real blessing in this humid, tropical weather.  Lately, temperatures daily reach the low 30’s (in Celsius).  Meanwhile, the Cap’n has been researching and then fixing stuff – always a challenge.  His current task is to set up a new furling system for the spinnaker, designed to make life easier.  And of course, finally make use of that sail ordered in 2010!  As always, check his Hunter460 blog for our technical ups & downs.  The Galley Slave has soldiered on with refreshing the WJ3 blogs, doing some family history research and digging out the Walmart $70 special sewing machine to make up some quilt blocks.  With thanks to Mr Lozza who serviced it for her last year, it worked a treat!  Yeah!  Happy campers all round!!

Doing the weekly shop, without fail, attracts those on the hum.
This time though, GS wanted to enlist a new crew member!

Of course, October is anniversary month – married 45 yrs & sailing WJ3 17 years (2007 BVI purchase), so the Cap’n made a special effort in buying an expensive ring.  To celebrate his years of togetherness for the Other Woman, naturally!  GS will bide her time…  

WJ3's expensive custom new stainless ring
(for the furling spinnaker fitting)

Windjammer's Holiday

Innocent looking cumulus clouds just looking for some very warm Caribbean water to grow into something nasty!!

Here we sit, in an often bouncy lagoon (even though WJ3 is still very securely tied to our berth, D21), daily watching towering cumulus clouds drift overhead.  This means yet another tropical wave is gliding over us; some offering more kick than others.  The end of August approaches, and this season’s outlook is expected to heat up until November-ish.  Fortunately for us in the Windwards, Atlantic conditions have changed a wee bit and these waves, with little to feed off (to develop into tropical storms or worse, hurricanes), are mostly drifting north-west of us – a bit of a reprieve, for now! 

So, tucked up in our little berth, we are pretending we’re on holiday.  A white sandy beach on a green tropical island somewhere...  Oh, wait – we are!

Looking oh so innocent, but we all know that means trouble ahead!!

Now that our second month here in St Lucia draws to a close, we tell ourselves we really have put time to good use.  The Cap’n continues to update his Hunter 460 Blog.  Exciting reading if you’re into mechanical & electrical mayhem and the many other wild and wacky delights of ongoing sailboat maintenance!  He’s also spending time doing heaps of research to help solve all those incidents that might just crop up one day – as they often do.  At present, we are still at a loss to explain why the main sail continues to get stuck in our mast.  Is it a bid for freedom?  Or why the cabin roof continues to leak every time it rains.  It is the tropics and rain it often does.  All this angst despite a fortunes-worth of sealants squeezed into every possible nook & cranny.    

An early evening gathering of our quietest neighbours, roosting egrets?

Meanwhile, the Galley Slave has prepped-up a handy to-do list of boat chores for herself and will one day get round to thinking about doing them.  Her current area of domestic expertise is fishing out little squidgies that find themselves sucked up in through the bathroom salt water inlet pump.  Meanwhile, last year’s troublesome laptop has become this year’s troublesome laptop, so uploading photos for WJ3 and the H460 blogs may have to wait until the nearest Walmart.  Meanwhile, there’s always a basket of stitching or a book to read…

So stressed out we are not; the aircon is working beautifully!  We check the weather daily, have an escape plan in mind and intend to stay in St Lucia rather than back-track south.  Anyhoo, it’s been lovely chatting but it’s almost beer time.  And a chilly, blue can of Piton definitely has our name on it. 

Looking right (south) from our comfy seats in the cockpit. Can you find the egrets?

And looking left (north)...it's a big marina for sure and a long walk to the bathrooms.
We are at the top end of the island and its flattest part.

Lunch in Lagos

Oh dear, here's troubles....

It’s always fun to host friends on board, even if only for a day AND in the sanctuary of a very cozy marina!  Laurie & Leigh, adventurers extraordinaire, managed a day in their busy schedule to take the train down from Lisbon - for a relaxed lunch on board naturally!

Sadly, they didn’t get to see too much of Lagos but did manage to escape before our Cap’n pulled out the polish for a shed-load (perhaps that should be a boat load) of stainless steel needing attention.  A smart move indeed….

Now this beats driving

Lagos Marina on a lovely sunny day

Snakes & Ladders

Mt Vesuvius looking rather calm...just the way we like it!

Torre del Greco, Italy

Torre del Greco sits right under Mt Vesuvius, well known for its violent temper.  We made for the marina and decided to stay for a few nights to cover prime tourist spots, Pompeii, Herculaneum and Naples.  In the port, we shared our berth with mostly small motor boats, the odd big power boat, everyday fishing boats, boat builders and a huge retaining wall, popular with locals out for an evening stroll, daily exercise or just to watch boats and dream. 

View of colourful houses of the Port - Torre del Greco

The port itself sits at the bottom of the slopes of Vesuvius and the train we needed left from a station, located a 20 minute heart pounding climb – 2 sets of stairs (almost 50 in the first and 78 in the second set) and a meandering track – all uphill.  We consoled ourselves in the knowledge that it’s all downhill on the way home.  Except that we needed to stop at the supermarket which required yet another set of stairs.  Traversing this town felt like one giant game of snakes and ladders.

Quite a decent sea wall protected us from the elements. The wall is popular
with locals for their evening stroll or to take exercise - without the stairs!

Although this is very much a working town, the locals were most obliging despite our lack of language skills.  We felt as if we had seen, away from tourist hotspots, a little of the real Italy.  The train, the Circumvesuviana Line between Naples and Sorrento, is a bit of a rickety number, well covered in graffiti, though it took us directly and quite quickly, to the ruins and Naples.  Although we never did quite get the hang of the timetable - there are some things in life that just defy logic!

During our stay we were treated to explosions of fireworks and church bells ringing (for ages – the Cap’n counted 110 peals several times) at all hours, day and night.  One morning we woke to an early dose of this religious devotion at dawn.  Later, a parade of townsfolk holding banners aloft made their way to a nearby church whilst cars tooted with much enthusiasm.  They had dispersed before we could even think about dashing round the port to find out what was going on but our kind ormeggiatori (marina staff) told us it was in celebration of St Anna.  Like the Greeks, the Italians celebrate Name Days (Saint names of course!) instead of birthdays and St Anna is important to Torre del Greco.  Obviously this was quite the community event and so nice to see such cooperation and support. 

Just so you don't miss us, WJ3 has the large white mast & beige awning;
facing out from the dock in the foreground. A perfect spot to keep an eye
on that now slumbering, volcano.

Treading Water

Could this be us in a few years time?  Just think - there's more than one!
Also note chest freezer...

You’ll be pleased to hear our time in the yard is at an end.  This year, aside from usual chores that go into setting up the boat, WJ3 shines from a good (professional) polishing, the Cap’n serviced rusty bicycles, we cleaned inside and out and GS made good use of the yard’s new laundry block.  We had to come to grips with yet another internet system, made all the more difficult due to a minor language barrier – i.e. not being able to read the instructions!  Worst of all, the bow thruster batteries had not charged in our absence and we needed an electrician to sort out the reasons for this.  Nevertheless, we had a pleasant time of it and the weather stayed relatively mild with a few storms for good measure.  However, climbing that ladder to our lofty abode never gets any easier…

Our neighbours returned with sad tales.  Their friends returned to their boat in Turkey for the start of another season, only he fell off the ladder carrying suitcases aboard and sadly didn’t survive.  We also heard that a woman in our yard had fallen and seriously hurt herself.  We double checked the ties securing our ladder for peace of mind.

Finally, we felt ready to splash.  On launching, the engine started…that’s good, but the generator again chose to be obstinate.  Hmmm!  Something more to look at whilst on anchor, we thought.  Launching Bruce (the dinghy) too was something of a concern as the outboard stubbornly refused to function. Cap’n “I’m not happy about this” now thinks it’s cruddy fuel.  Meanwhile, he vaguely wondered why his feet were getting so wet inside the dinghy.  Yes, someone had stolen our dinghy bung.  To add to post launch miseries, the bow thruster continues to be obstinate and needs more professional help.  A kind neighbour (thanks, Paul) saw our predicament and offered to ferry us to shore to check in with the Port Police and beg a berth at the Marina.   So here we sit, rafted up but afloat with not much working (sound familiar?) but at least in good spirits, thanks to quantities of Greek wine.  The mere mention of our sailing schedule reduces us to fits of hysterical laughter. 

We’re waiting on the electrician and apparently, we are going to live longer because our world is revolving in accord with Greek time (GMT = Greek Maybe Time).  We’re treading water and going nowhere real fast…

A Fond Farewell

Fondamente Nove vaporetto stop on the outside edge of Venice

Sant Elena Marina, Venice, Italy. 

With valiant crew member, JKip, due any minute to join WJ3’s crew of vagabonds, and the end of our Venice stay in sight, it was also time to think about packing up, going back to Lido to do a big grocery shop at Conad and filling the water tanks.  Bruce too, had developed quite the shaggy beard after bobbing about in brackish lagoon waters.  Very stylish!

So, to celebrate the end of our stay we invited Mr Ian aboard for “cocktail” hour.  He kept us thoroughly entertained with a rendition of Swiss Army precision drill (yes, of course with a multi tool knife) worthy of any Military Tattoo.  Well, you just had to be there! 

Later, we sat in the evening cool at the delightful osteria in Sant Elena for a celebratory fish dinner of local mussels, crab & prawns.  It was going to be a very tough farewell.

Any room on board?  It's Mr JKip!

Sant Elena Marina had been the perfect and very convenient home-away-from-home with quiet neighbourhoods and shady parks welcoming us after long hot days of touristico-ing.  Everything we needed was either walking distance or a short vaporetto ride away.  

From our protected berth, we watched yet another huge cruise ship slowly exit the shallow Venice Lagoon and wondered what their passengers had thought of Venice.  For us, two weeks seemed barely enough time to crack the surface and get beyond the glitz of this city of treasures and masterpieces.  Obviously the heat and house wine had got to GS - she was talking summer rentals or camper vans.  Our brave Cap’n, thinking of how many more cathedrals/museums that would involve, decided to ignore her.  You get the drift...

Won't miss this alarm clock

Or watching the daily ships coming & going, keeping the Pilots BUSY

We will miss that vision of Venetian splendour 

And quiet moments on the Grand Canal

Floating Islands

Venice...as in WOW, Venice!

Having lost much of our very short “cruising season” to repairs, we made our way with some haste to Venice.  (A little more on that voyage later.)  Having settled ourselves into a marina – Santa Elena on the tip of Venice proper – and, after only a short rest, it was time to hit those labyrinthine streets.  Anything wheeled, including baby buggies, is better left elsewhere as streets are narrow, sometimes claustrophobically so; bridges endless; crowds merciless; and heat oppressive.  Welcome to July in Venice.

Floating Islands is an intoxicating dessert - fluffy meringue pillows suspended over rich, vanilla custard.  Somehow Venice hints at this dreamy delight (although the dessert is French in origin – but Napoleon was here too, you know!) with its spectacular, romantic palaces (palazzo), crumbling mansions, churches to inspire any amount of religious fervour and impressive art works full of Baroque vigour. 

This whole tantalizing vision floats over some 100 muddy islands, underpinned by hundreds of pinewood piles in a shallow swampy lagoon.  These islands are separated by canals, some mere rills - a tight squeeze even for a gondola, and this network is laced together by a series of bridges that challenge any notion you might have of direction or angle.  Any wonder, first time visitors are advised to “Get Lost”.

No, I'm not taking on extra crew!

Wandering aimlessly is not something the Cap’n does well.  It’s a bit like shopping.  So when our foray for groceries in our local area (to a rare mini-market open on Sunday) ended up in the Piazza San Marco, you can imagine how delighted he was.  Turning back, we found ourselves at the famous Arsenale, the city’s maritime heart and once the greatest naval shipyard in the world.  At its peak, the Arsenale was capable of turning out one war galley (perhaps a great trireme of 150 oars with a fierce battering ram & bronze canon) in a day.  Any wonder, the Venetian Empire was vast, powerful and so, so wealthy.

We managed to find our way back to the green parks of Sant Elena eventually; not before a finding a spot at a bar to rest our weary tootsies.  And, of course, to join in the local custom of partaking an afternoon aperitif (for us a refreshing beer) to stimulate one’s appetite for dinner.  Dinner?  Oh shoot!  Now where was that supermarket?

Grand Renaissance Entrance (1460) to the Arsenale Shipyard

We liked this lion; he looked like our Airedale, Baxter,
after a bad haircut day...always embarrassed!

Eagles Nest

Meteora, Greece

This is Meteora. Oh, WOW!

Next morning, refreshed, we were picked up from our Kastraki B&B by tour group, Visit Meteora.  Given our schedule (limited time & still no map) and the fact that this tour included visits to 2 monasteries as well as a notable prehistoric cave, and then had us back in time for lunch, we readily signed up. (Also it let's the Cap'n admire the scenery too, rather than concentrate on sharing Greek roads with "enthusiastic" Greek drivers.)  Warning: photo overload ahead!

We started with a stop at two rocky outcrops where the first monastic settlements (10^th c) were made.  From the small chapel at the base of Doupiani, we were able to glimpse numerous caves that became “homes” for hermits and in later years, in a more organised capacity, monasteries.  Across from our vantage point, we could see the cave-shrine of St George.  Each year young men “climb” to this cave and replace votive scarves kept there to bring the village good fortune. 

Great Monastery of Meteora

First stop was the Monastery of Great Meteoron, (1387-1388) built by St. Athanasios.  It is certainly the most inspiring and highest placed at 615m.  From below, you could only wonder at the determination and achievement of these monks (and supporting villagers) who scaled such sheer walls to bring building materials and daily supplies. 

Some of the frescoes outside the church

We easily climbed a stone stairway, not quite so giddy as a net winched from a platform above, to enter the Monastery.  A number of rooms were set out; kitchens, workshops, storage cellar and crypt (with bones) attest to the rigours of a life led by these monks.  A viewing platform perched on the edge of the Platys Lithos (Broad Rock) gave us chills, but we understood the necessity for preservation of life in dangerous times.   The highlight, aside from a small museum, was the beautiful cross-in-square church decorated from floor to ceiling with vivid frescoes.  Those in the narthex were rather grisly (such is the life of a martyr) but inside it was ablaze in celebration of Christianity.  (A tour guide, not ours, mentioned El Greco, but this needs a little research yet).

Views to die for...

Back on the bus, we stopped at a number of viewpoints to hear about (and take photos of) the other monasteries, including a “jail” cave, even more austere, where naughty monks were sent to spend time in repentance.  At one time there were some 24 monasteries & hermitages in the area but now, sadly there are only six remaining.  A life in isolation requires many supporters, even better if wealthy, and a special attraction or two to draw the crowds (holy relics were vital).

"Katopusskos" sunning themselves on a ledge outside Ayiou Stefanou

Next stop was Ayiou Stefanou (1798), built by monk Ambrosios.  Here, we were treated to a viewing of their famous relic; a skull of a saint, St Charalambos, in a silver box.  The little church was being painted with traditional frescoes as we watched (although 15^th c frescoes do survive), and crowds mobbed the small museum.  Rudely, tour operators and large groups took up most available space, inside & out, so we didn’t feel the “composure” of Great Meteoron.  That said, the gardens were beautifully tended and many homely touches featured in this small monastery.

Inside Theopetra Cave

From 14th century monasteries to prehistoric caves.  Next on our list was the recently explored Theopetra Caves.  This dusty cave system is an extraordinary repository of early man’s existence.  The cave has seen human habitation since 135000 BC to 4000 BC (and no, there’s not too many zeros in those figures!).  Further, it provided temporary shelter to a range of occupants from the Bronze Age up until 1955.  Fertile lands surrounding the cave had been used by prehistoric man for hunting, farming and running stock.  At the cave’s entrance, archaeologists discovered a 23000 year old stone wall, possibly the oldest manmade structure ever found. It is thought that the occupants erected the wall to protect themselves (and their livestock) from extreme cold during the last ice age.  Although not the prettiest of ancient sites we’ve visited in Greece, it’s certainly been the most humbling.

Remember to look up...  Our friendly B&B

Our delightful B&B hosts advised us to take the Grevena road back to the A2 – a less hilly option.  The country was surprisingly lush and well cared for.  Forested areas (homes for bear & deer) added to the mix and the road relatively quiet.  Sadly, not one bear came to wave to us.  Next time we’ll carry some honey…

We made it back to Preveza in time (meaning daylight) to make a stop at Octavian’s (later Augustus Caesar) Nikopolis or Victory City.  The remains of the city are spread out over a wide area, so we viewed  the huge podium, built to celebrate his victory (over Cleo & Marc Antony’s fleets, not to mention his elevation to said emperor) and Rome’s might.  From there it was a short drive to fortified Byzantine walls restored by Justinian (6^th c AD) and now under archaeologists’ control, before heading back to a somewhat chilly, Preveza Marina. 

Two views of Nikopolis, Octavian's Victory City

Looking for Bears

Zagori, Greece

Triple Span Packhorse Bridge, Central Zagori

With WJ3 snug in Preveza Marina, we planned a trip into the northern mountains.  Our car, a bright red roller skate, had a little more determination than a Panda; thankfully, because the hills were fairly serious.  Katara Pass skims clouds at a mere 1694m and Metsovo, our turn off to Meteora, just 2300m.

Off we set with only a teensy Rough Guide map to show us the way.  It’s impossible it seems to buy road maps – in Greek let alone English - so we were off on a wing and a prayer.  Luckily we were heading for Meteora, land of mountain top monasteries, so someone must have heard us.  First planned stop however was Zagori country in the foothills of the Pindos Mountains.  We took the road to Ioannina, a winding but interesting trip passing through pretty farmlands, trout ponds perched on the edge of fast flowing rivers, shadowy glades and non-descript villages – a little worse for wear. 

Ioannina is surprisingly a large and bustling city; once the capital of Ali Pasha, now the realm of university students and expert double-parkers.  The traffic seems to flow like treacle through the frenetic activity and somehow in the confusion, we found ourselves centre stage.  The remnants of an Ottoman bazaar (with attractive silver shops!) to our left and Ali Pasha’s lump of a fort (Kastro) to the right!  All of course set with a beautiful backdrop of Lake Pamvotis and high mountains behind.  There was no time to stop however, as we had no idea what Zagori would hold for us and wanted to be in Meteora before dark.

Small Bridge with Chapel & goats

The most remarkable of the bridges we saw

Our luck held as we headed north and a faded sign pointing to the Central Zagori revealed itself in the roadside shrubbery.  Better still, to an Information Point!  Even better, it was open when we arrived!  A helpful Park Ranger gave us loads of brochures & maps and, given the time we had to drive the “country roads”, a plan to see the best we could in the time available.  We had come for the view of Vikos Gorge, villages of stone mansions set in rugged landscapes (where we should have stayed an extra night!) and the highly romantic packhorse bridges.

Triple Span hidden in the ravine
is larger than it looks

Under instruction, we set off in the direction of Koukouli & Kipi, dodging sleepy sheep dogs, to find our bridges.  Our fist was a tiny one span bridge with a small chapel to one side.  Goat bells tinkled nearby adding bucolic charm to the setting. 

These bridges, generally named after their wealthy sponsors, provided villagers a means of travel and trade with the outside world.  The landscape is so rugged, that mules were the vehicle of choice and bridges were built specifically for this traffic. Sadly, construction was a closely guarded secret held by the men who built them and the art now lost.  

Having discovered 3 bridges, we made for Monodendri Village and beyond, the Oxia lookout above Vikos Gorge.  The lookout is something of a narrow ledge, hardly room for half dozen gawkers to perch over a one way trip straight to the bowels of the earth.  We added to the pile of name stones at a little shrine hidden in the rocks nearby and quickly left before the rain set in. 

Vikos Gorge in cloud & rain

Our first "selfie" at the Gorge

Tiny shrine at the Vikos Gorge viewing point, Oxia.

Regrouping in the atmospheric Monodendri with coffee and pastries, we scouted round for a museum and monastery where the views down the Gorge from its balconies are said to be spectacular.  Signage was not good and besides, the oncoming rain made us jittery, so we headed back down to the Ioannina ring road and made for the Via Egnatia Expressway (A2). 

Stone Forest, Oxia

Having traversed some of these minor roads, one can only but appreciate the expressway.  For €2.40, at 130kph and through vast numbers of tunnels, we made short work of the mountainous terrain.  At times we felt we were digging for China, but here they say "Australia", so I guess it’s not all that bad.  The turnoff to Meteora and our village accommodation (Kastraki) meant another hour of downhill winding roads but we arrived, sense of humours intact and in time for sundowners.  Our B&B - a traditional cottage, veiled by a pink sunset at the foot of some jaw-dropping rocks!

Monodendri with view over the Vikos Gorge
(Is that the monastery we couldn't find?)