Eagles Nest

Meteora, Greece

This is Meteora. Oh, WOW!

Next morning, refreshed, we were picked up from our Kastraki B&B by tour group, Visit Meteora.  Given our schedule (limited time & still no map) and the fact that this tour included visits to 2 monasteries as well as a notable prehistoric cave, and then had us back in time for lunch, we readily signed up. (Also it let's the Cap'n admire the scenery too, rather than concentrate on sharing Greek roads with "enthusiastic" Greek drivers.)  Warning: photo overload ahead!

We started with a stop at two rocky outcrops where the first monastic settlements (10^th c) were made.  From the small chapel at the base of Doupiani, we were able to glimpse numerous caves that became “homes” for hermits and in later years, in a more organised capacity, monasteries.  Across from our vantage point, we could see the cave-shrine of St George.  Each year young men “climb” to this cave and replace votive scarves kept there to bring the village good fortune. 

Great Monastery of Meteora

First stop was the Monastery of Great Meteoron, (1387-1388) built by St. Athanasios.  It is certainly the most inspiring and highest placed at 615m.  From below, you could only wonder at the determination and achievement of these monks (and supporting villagers) who scaled such sheer walls to bring building materials and daily supplies. 

Some of the frescoes outside the church

We easily climbed a stone stairway, not quite so giddy as a net winched from a platform above, to enter the Monastery.  A number of rooms were set out; kitchens, workshops, storage cellar and crypt (with bones) attest to the rigours of a life led by these monks.  A viewing platform perched on the edge of the Platys Lithos (Broad Rock) gave us chills, but we understood the necessity for preservation of life in dangerous times.   The highlight, aside from a small museum, was the beautiful cross-in-square church decorated from floor to ceiling with vivid frescoes.  Those in the narthex were rather grisly (such is the life of a martyr) but inside it was ablaze in celebration of Christianity.  (A tour guide, not ours, mentioned El Greco, but this needs a little research yet).

Views to die for...

Back on the bus, we stopped at a number of viewpoints to hear about (and take photos of) the other monasteries, including a “jail” cave, even more austere, where naughty monks were sent to spend time in repentance.  At one time there were some 24 monasteries & hermitages in the area but now, sadly there are only six remaining.  A life in isolation requires many supporters, even better if wealthy, and a special attraction or two to draw the crowds (holy relics were vital).

"Katopusskos" sunning themselves on a ledge outside Ayiou Stefanou

Next stop was Ayiou Stefanou (1798), built by monk Ambrosios.  Here, we were treated to a viewing of their famous relic; a skull of a saint, St Charalambos, in a silver box.  The little church was being painted with traditional frescoes as we watched (although 15^th c frescoes do survive), and crowds mobbed the small museum.  Rudely, tour operators and large groups took up most available space, inside & out, so we didn’t feel the “composure” of Great Meteoron.  That said, the gardens were beautifully tended and many homely touches featured in this small monastery.

Inside Theopetra Cave

From 14th century monasteries to prehistoric caves.  Next on our list was the recently explored Theopetra Caves.  This dusty cave system is an extraordinary repository of early man’s existence.  The cave has seen human habitation since 135000 BC to 4000 BC (and no, there’s not too many zeros in those figures!).  Further, it provided temporary shelter to a range of occupants from the Bronze Age up until 1955.  Fertile lands surrounding the cave had been used by prehistoric man for hunting, farming and running stock.  At the cave’s entrance, archaeologists discovered a 23000 year old stone wall, possibly the oldest manmade structure ever found. It is thought that the occupants erected the wall to protect themselves (and their livestock) from extreme cold during the last ice age.  Although not the prettiest of ancient sites we’ve visited in Greece, it’s certainly been the most humbling.

Remember to look up...  Our friendly B&B

Our delightful B&B hosts advised us to take the Grevena road back to the A2 – a less hilly option.  The country was surprisingly lush and well cared for.  Forested areas (homes for bear & deer) added to the mix and the road relatively quiet.  Sadly, not one bear came to wave to us.  Next time we’ll carry some honey…

We made it back to Preveza in time (meaning daylight) to make a stop at Octavian’s (later Augustus Caesar) Nikopolis or Victory City.  The remains of the city are spread out over a wide area, so we viewed  the huge podium, built to celebrate his victory (over Cleo & Marc Antony’s fleets, not to mention his elevation to said emperor) and Rome’s might.  From there it was a short drive to fortified Byzantine walls restored by Justinian (6^th c AD) and now under archaeologists’ control, before heading back to a somewhat chilly, Preveza Marina. 

Two views of Nikopolis, Octavian's Victory City

Looking for Bears

Zagori, Greece

Triple Span Packhorse Bridge, Central Zagori

With WJ3 snug in Preveza Marina, we planned a trip into the northern mountains.  Our car, a bright red roller skate, had a little more determination than a Panda; thankfully, because the hills were fairly serious.  Katara Pass skims clouds at a mere 1694m and Metsovo, our turn off to Meteora, just 2300m.

Off we set with only a teensy Rough Guide map to show us the way.  It’s impossible it seems to buy road maps – in Greek let alone English - so we were off on a wing and a prayer.  Luckily we were heading for Meteora, land of mountain top monasteries, so someone must have heard us.  First planned stop however was Zagori country in the foothills of the Pindos Mountains.  We took the road to Ioannina, a winding but interesting trip passing through pretty farmlands, trout ponds perched on the edge of fast flowing rivers, shadowy glades and non-descript villages – a little worse for wear. 

Ioannina is surprisingly a large and bustling city; once the capital of Ali Pasha, now the realm of university students and expert double-parkers.  The traffic seems to flow like treacle through the frenetic activity and somehow in the confusion, we found ourselves centre stage.  The remnants of an Ottoman bazaar (with attractive silver shops!) to our left and Ali Pasha’s lump of a fort (Kastro) to the right!  All of course set with a beautiful backdrop of Lake Pamvotis and high mountains behind.  There was no time to stop however, as we had no idea what Zagori would hold for us and wanted to be in Meteora before dark.

Small Bridge with Chapel & goats

The most remarkable of the bridges we saw

Our luck held as we headed north and a faded sign pointing to the Central Zagori revealed itself in the roadside shrubbery.  Better still, to an Information Point!  Even better, it was open when we arrived!  A helpful Park Ranger gave us loads of brochures & maps and, given the time we had to drive the “country roads”, a plan to see the best we could in the time available.  We had come for the view of Vikos Gorge, villages of stone mansions set in rugged landscapes (where we should have stayed an extra night!) and the highly romantic packhorse bridges.

Triple Span hidden in the ravine
is larger than it looks

Under instruction, we set off in the direction of Koukouli & Kipi, dodging sleepy sheep dogs, to find our bridges.  Our fist was a tiny one span bridge with a small chapel to one side.  Goat bells tinkled nearby adding bucolic charm to the setting. 

These bridges, generally named after their wealthy sponsors, provided villagers a means of travel and trade with the outside world.  The landscape is so rugged, that mules were the vehicle of choice and bridges were built specifically for this traffic. Sadly, construction was a closely guarded secret held by the men who built them and the art now lost.  

Having discovered 3 bridges, we made for Monodendri Village and beyond, the Oxia lookout above Vikos Gorge.  The lookout is something of a narrow ledge, hardly room for half dozen gawkers to perch over a one way trip straight to the bowels of the earth.  We added to the pile of name stones at a little shrine hidden in the rocks nearby and quickly left before the rain set in. 

Vikos Gorge in cloud & rain

Our first "selfie" at the Gorge

Tiny shrine at the Vikos Gorge viewing point, Oxia.

Regrouping in the atmospheric Monodendri with coffee and pastries, we scouted round for a museum and monastery where the views down the Gorge from its balconies are said to be spectacular.  Signage was not good and besides, the oncoming rain made us jittery, so we headed back down to the Ioannina ring road and made for the Via Egnatia Expressway (A2). 

Stone Forest, Oxia

Having traversed some of these minor roads, one can only but appreciate the expressway.  For €2.40, at 130kph and through vast numbers of tunnels, we made short work of the mountainous terrain.  At times we felt we were digging for China, but here they say "Australia", so I guess it’s not all that bad.  The turnoff to Meteora and our village accommodation (Kastraki) meant another hour of downhill winding roads but we arrived, sense of humours intact and in time for sundowners.  Our B&B - a traditional cottage, veiled by a pink sunset at the foot of some jaw-dropping rocks!

Monodendri with view over the Vikos Gorge
(Is that the monastery we couldn't find?)