Monday, September 28, 2015

A Day of Haunting


Our long voyage south to Lithuania on a private bus had few benefits of regular travel – no on board wifi, spacious reclining seats or hot drinks – but we were able to fit in a very special stop not usually available on regular transport routes.  The Hill of Crosses’ notoriety was cemented when it became the pilgrimage site in remembrance of casualties from a peasant uprising sparked by young Polish officers rebelling against their Russian masters in 1831. 

The area’s history goes back so much further however, with the celebrated Battle of Saulè fought in 1236 by Samogitians (local Baltic tribes) defeating Teutonic and Livonian Knights.  The settlement of Siauliai was established nearby. The Hill of Crosses is thought to have started when locals placed crosses on the site of a former hill fort as a mark of nationalism and faith. 


From the beginning though the Hill of Crosses was as much about the endurance of Catholicism and a place to pray for peace & country in the face of occupation. It has become a site of pilgrimage, reflection and miracles.  Over the years the Hill has been bulldozed and suffered indignities but now continues to grow exponentially as visitors and pilgrims travel from the world over to pay their respects. Visitors in 1993 included the Pope. 

We arrived on a cold, bleak day, which lent an air of mystery and drama to this sombre site. Some say the Hill is haunted but we would describe it rather as haunting.  It is said to be impossible to count the crosses (now guesstimated at more than 200,000). When you visit you will understand why. The Hill of Crosses is an inspiring reminder of faith, nationalism and irrepressible spirit.

 

Sunday, September 27, 2015

Revolving Door History

Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania make up the Baltic States; three countries in northern Europe on the eastern coast of the Baltic Sea.  Even though they are grouped in this way, the heritage of Latvian and Lithuanian peoples is considered Baltic whereas Estonians are more closely connected with Finland, especially linguistically.  (Incidentally, we discovered last year that Hungary too derives its language from Finnish.)  So here’s a brief and cobbled timeline of their tumultuous, revolving door history. (No photos - sorry!  So go find a nice hot cup of something soothing and you’ll have this read in no time!)

800: Viking raids around the Baltic region.

1201:  Teutonic Orders (German Knights &/or militant monks) forcibly occupy and convert local pagan peoples to Christianity.  The Knights were not defeated in Lithuania until 1410.

1219:  Danes seized Tallinn (Estonia), a strategic trading port. 

1282:  Riga (Latvia) becomes part of the trading confederation of port cities and merchant associations, known as the Hanseatic League, for more than 700 years.  Other Hansa cities included Tallinn and Klaipeda.

1386:  Royal marriage unties Lithuania & Poland. 

1569:  In the 16th century the rulers of different regions sought to partner themselves with various foreign powers, which resulted in Polish, Swedish and Danish involvement.  Lithuania formed a Commonwealth with Poland giving rise to one of the largest countries in Europe at the time.  The region was Catholic with some parts becoming Lutheran during the Reformation.

1655:  Russia invades Lithuania (Vilnius).  At the beginning of the 18th century the Swedish Empire was attacked by a coalition of several European powers in the Great Northern War. Among these powers was Russia seeking to restore its access to the Baltic Sea. During the course of war it conquered all of the Sweden's provinces on the Eastern Baltic coast.

1772:  As a result of Partitions of Poland (1772 to 1795) Polish–Lithuanian Commonwealth ceased to exist and its territories were incorporated into the Russian Empire, the Kingdom of Prussia and the Habsburg Empire.

1918:  Declaration of Independence.  After the First World War the term "Baltic States" was used to refer to countries by the Baltic Sea that had gained independence from Russia in its aftermath. As such it included not only former Baltic governorates, but also Lithuania and Finland.

1940:  Soviets occupied all of the territory of Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania, installing new, pro-Soviet governments in all three countries. Newly "elected" parliaments of the three countries formally applied to "join" the Soviet Union in August 1940 and were incorporated into it. Repressions, executions and mass deportations followed after that.  Deportations were used as a part of the Soviet Union's attempts (including instituting the Russian language as the only working language) at Russification of its occupied territories. More than 200,000 people were deported by the Soviet government from the Baltic in 1940-1953 to remote, inhospitable areas of the Soviet Union eg Siberia. In addition, at least 75,000 were sent to Gulags.  Overall, 10% of the entire adult Baltic population was deported or sent to labor camps

1941:  The Soviet control of the Baltic States was interrupted by the Nazi Germany invasion of this region.  Initially, many considered the Germans as liberators from the Soviet Union.  The Baltic countries hoped for the restoration of independence, but instead the Germans established civil administration.  During this occupation the Germans carried out mass deportations and mass killings generating Baltic resistance movements.

1944:  The beginning of the Stalinist era.  Baltic countries were re-occupied by the Soviet Army and control was re-established, with the passive agreement of the United States and Britain.  Forced collectivisation of agriculture began in 1947, and was completed after a mass deportation in March 1949.  Private farms were confiscated, and farmers were made to join collective farms. In all three countries Baltic partisans waged unsuccessful guerrilla warfare against the Soviet occupation for the next eight years in a bid to regain their nations' independence.  Stalin died in 1953.

1990:  In the late 1980s a massive campaign of civil resistance against Soviet rule, known as the Singing Revolution, began.  Baltic Way was one of the most spectacular events when a two-million-strong human chain stretched for 600 km from Tallinn to Vilnius on 23 August 1989.  In the wake of this campaign Gorbachev's government had privately concluded that the departure of the Baltic republics had become "inevitable".  This process contributed to the dissolution of the Soviet Union setting a precedent for the other Soviet republics to secede from the USSR.  Soviet Union recognized the independence of the three Baltic States on 6 September 1991.

Each of the three countries declared itself to be the restoration of the sovereign nations that had existed from 1918 to 1940, emphasizing their contention that Soviet domination over the Baltic nations during the Cold War period had been an illegal occupation and annexation.  The same legal interpretation is shared by the United States, the United Kingdom, and all other Western democracies, who always considered the forcible incorporation of Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania into the Soviet Union to be illegal.  At least formally, the Western democracies never considered the three Baltic States to be constituent parts of the Soviet Union.  Australia was a brief exception to this support of Baltic freedom.  In 1974, the Australian Labor government did recognize Soviet dominion (Yes, cough, cough!  Another of Gough’s legacies…) but thankfully this decision was reversed by the next Australian Parliament.

2004:  After the Baltic States had restored independence, integration with Western Europe was chosen as the main strategic goal. In 2002 the Baltic nations applied to become members of NATO and the EU.  Membership was duly achieved in 2004.  

2015: Baltic States converted to Euro (conveniently in time for our tour).

Saturday, September 26, 2015

Knitting in Riga

Riga, Latvia

House of the Blackheads (1334)
 
The Four Musicians bring good luck!
A Grimm's Fairy Tale
Olga was our guide in Riga, capital of Latvia.  Riga’s old town is a little less Disney than Tallinn and certainly not treated with kid gloves, although it is well respected.  Olga led us on a merry dance – an intense 3 hours - through cobbled streets, towered medieval churches, ancient guild warehouses and countless statues to remind us of ancient and more modern times.  She should write a book; her knowledge of all the little details, including lots of fun facts, folklore & gossip is quite astonishing. 

All this was rather interesting but it seemed any hint of traditional craft & folk art had been missing from our tour so far.  GS had not done so well in her planning!  Still, it exists but modern design is more appealing to cities & countries rushing forward to join the modern world and mark their place in it. 


Any wonder, the history of the Baltic States is one huge revolving door of occupations.  It’s so interesting – and alarming – that it deserves a separate post.  So get your coffee ready for that one now!

Freedom Monument & blue sky - momentarily!

Black Balsam
We had arrived in Riga stiff from the bus, between showers and with gloomy grey clouds threatening boisterous activity ahead.  That did not stop us however from our local orientation walk – an essential if we were to make our way around the city (indeed anywhere really) on our own, with confidence or during such short stays.  Given we could barely remember our room numbers at this stage, you’ll understand the importance of this crucial activity. 
 
This time however, we ended up in a basement restaurant in Riga with the hip crowd eating plates of meat & mushroom stew….warming indeed given the coolish weather.  Local beer, wine and tastings of black balsam, a herby cough syrup tasting liquor, to follow did little to enhance our “pre-sharpened” homing skills but somehow we all showed up for breakfast the next morning.

  
 
Time for a little shopping! 
As we had a few hours to fill in before our private transfer to Lithuania, the Cap’n made for the Occupation Museum, housed in a distinctly Soviet era building off Riga's main square.  
 
GS hoped to see inside the Three Brothers, merchant houses from various eras but it was closed. This led to finding  decent coffee, the delightful Latvian Knits store, markets with lots more handcraft and beautifully dyed wools and a browse around town to make up for it. 

Whilst on the topic of shopping, it should be noted that amber is readily available in the Baltic States.  Lithuania is said to be the main source of this fascinating fossilized tree resin, mostly fashioned into jewellery.  Amber has been valued since ancient times and an Amber Road (similar to the Silk Road) - a trading route between the Baltics and the Mediterranean existed. 

You must also have all heard of the famous (missing) amber room (1701) in the Catherine Palace near Saint Petersburg!  The original is still missing, but it has now been reproduced (2003) for us to marvel at.  A trip to Russia anyone?

Wednesday, September 9, 2015

A Word of Warning

Yes, a virus alert! 

Please be aware that someone has duplicated our blog and clicking any links or Google redirections to this duplication, including accepting cookies (an EU requirement which seems to make this authentic) causes a virus to be downloaded.  

Blogger does not carry viruses.  So, PLEASE, please make sure you keep your virus software up-to-date AND use our proper blog address....

The link you should mark as your favourite is http://windjammer3.blogspot.com.au   Any others should be TOTALLY ignored.

YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED....


I haff some good news.  And I haff some bad news... 

Friday, September 4, 2015

Moscow Mules at Ten Paces

Tallinn, Estonia


Time for another ferry ride, but at least the sun was shining for our trip across the Baltic to Estonia and the UNESCO Heritage Listed old town of Tallinn.  What a delight to wander through cobbled streets and enjoy the seriously medieval ambience.

I think the "modern" building behind the old city is the KGB Hotel & Museum



But not before yet another 20km bike ride; this one courtesy of City Bikes and in the company of a knowledgeable guide.  Our tail-end Charlie earned his keep this day as we photographers stopped regularly at unscheduled intervals to take yet more photos.  As you do!  This tour took us well out of the old city limits so we could appreciate the huge natural harbour and understand completely why Tallinn was yet another gold star in the strategic acquisitions program of the Hanseatic League. 



After the ride, his Captainship headed off to the KGB Museum (he was less than complimentary on return) and GS made for an exhibition of European Masters from the Medieval and Renaissance times.  Housed within the Medieval Town Hall (the only surviving  Town Hall in the Gothic style of architecture) the exhibition was showcased brilliantly with many old masters that are rarely (if ever) seen at home.  What a treat!

After that, it was time to hit the shops and admire the local talent for knitting, spot incredibly cheap linen products and wish that luggage allowances were more generous.  The Katariina Guild, a row of craftsman’s studios housed in medieval workshops in an alley alongside the Katariina Monastery was home to leather, glass, ceramics, felt, milliners and textiles.  Finally, some fellow patchworkers!  




Given that our tour had become something of an eat-street review, it should be noted that we had an amazing dinner at a Medieval-style restaurant under the Town Hall.  We dined on ox rib, ate pies, drank wine from ceramic beakers, beer from jugs, and soup from bowls, and fished for pickles from a barrel – all with no cutlery (except a knife) and in a dark, atmospheric cellar.  It was certainly not a 5 star dining experience but heaps of fun. 

Another restaurant in the town square served bear meat, smoked beaver, wild mushrooms and the very best black caviar (at a mere 99)…but we simply couldn't bear the thought of it...(Sorry!)  Yes, Tallinn, although a favourite of Fins is also visited by crowds and crowds of Russians.

Meanwhile some of us had to stay home and take care of a few chores.  Namely drying the laundry!  (Note effective use of hairdryer for drying undies whilst on the internet...  He's such a natural!)

(For those interested, a Moscow Mule is a cocktail of vodka, lime and ginger beer.  Self-preservation kicks in at times, especially as youth fades, and we developed instead a fondness for Chilean wines.)

Thursday, September 3, 2015

Going Berry Nuts

Helsinki (& the end of the tour for some)



Our run of wet weather continued, however by the time we had settled into the hotel and geared up for a city orientation walk, the sun was breaking between the clouds.  With a positive outlook for the weather, we disappeared off to walk the outdoor museum, Suomenlinna, once a Naval Fortress (1758) with a big, big history.  Suomenlinna is located over a series of islands in Helsinki Harbour and some residences are still owned by locals – so it’s a nice suburban/open air museum mix.   

We walked the grounds out to the Kings Gate then along the Russian defence line complete with some rather robust artillery in the gun emplacements. 

 

This poor chap was tied to a canon for punishment.  Yes, it was then fired!
This isn't really what's left of him, but a bronze memorial...but you knew that!





Whilst the Cap’n sought out more things military, GS happily toured the totally captivating toy museum and then learned more about the life and times of the period at the Commandant’s Residence, once home to the fort’s founder, Augustin Ehrensvard.



Aside from a quick visit to the unusual (though interesting architecturally) Church of the Rock, we did little else in Helsinki except pound the pavement and admire amazing buildings both old & new, enjoy trend-setting Finnish arts & design and appreciate flavoursome wafts courtesy of the current fad for street food. 

Down near the wharf, we succumbed to a mixed fish plate – salmon, cod and sardines(?) served with buttered potatoes and mixed vegetables.  Yumalicious!  But enough to feed a small army!  Market stalls, aside from the usual souvenirs, also had fur hats, fantastic woolly scarves & mittens, a wide selection of seasonal berries and wild mushrooms - all at unbelievable prices - it was so hard not to go completely nuts...

Design and arts is BIG in Helsinki and having won the Design Capital 2012 Award, delicious colours, modern design, inspirational architecture and fabulous traditional knitting is featured everywhere.  We could easily have spent a week in this vibrant and stylish city. 

(Note the stylish & comfortable chairs in the Ferry Terminal!)

Oh well, time to bid some of our fellow travellers farewell, welcome newcomers and move on to experience the Baltic coast and see more of Eastern Europe.






 

Wednesday, September 2, 2015

Tervetuloa Suomi

Aland Islands

The solidly built Pommern 1904 - on a very grey afternoon

We left Stockholm on a dull, grey morning for the 4 hour crossing on a rather substantial ferry to the Aland Islands.  The seas were equally grey, somewhat swelly and with white caps.  Yes, it was raining too.  Welcome to Finland.

We think this was a house with a "widow's watchtower"


The Alands consist of some 6757 skerries and islands, mostly rocky, flat and largely uninhabited.  The archipelago is something of an enigma, given its Finnish nationality and Swedish language.  Thanks to a shipping industry and tourism it is quite well off, though Marieham, its quaint village capital seems unspoilt by either activity.  We noted however, large ladders attached to most of the houses and assumed this was to enable access during those long, snowed-in months.  We also learned that during winter, it is possible to drive over the ice to the islands from the Finnish mainland.  Strange but true!

Although the rain had eased, our fearless group set off on yet another 20km bike ride to explore some of the nearby tiny granite islands.  It was reported as a bracing tour through some lovely birch forested skerries.


The Halyard Winch
For those not bike riding (yours truly), a nearby Maritime Museum beckoned, though we only had an hour to cover both the museum and the Pommern, a 1904 four-masted, steel hulled merchant ship that once plied its trade between the UK and Australia. 

Thankfully, many of the Pommern’s adventures were photographed or filmed and there were some indescribable pictures on display of the ship’s rounding of Cape Horn in less than appealing conditions and wild hurricane experiences in the Atlantic. 








A Captain with taste in travelling companions!

The Museum was set up as a re-creation of a ship, with some truly remarkable supporting pieces, including a pirate flag (one of only three known to exist in the world), a collection of delightful figureheads and a large display of items made by the sailors during their time off-watch.  Aside from the usual macramé and knitting, the collection included shell covered boxes and pictures made from butterfly wings. 

At Dino’s Bar & Grill we mixed it with the locals, skipped meals of moose meat and waited in the convivial warmth before taking our midnight ferry to Helsinki.  Let’s just say that this crossing was even more challenging than the last and put paid to ANY idea of sailing the Baltic….(well, in anything less than a very, very large cruise ship!)