Knitting in Riga

Riga, Latvia.  A land of Fairy Tales

House of the Blackheads (1334)

These Four Musicians bring
 good luck! A Grimm's Fairy Tale

Olga was our guide in Riga, capital of Latvia.  Riga’s old town is a little less Disney than Tallinn and certainly not treated with kid gloves, although it is well respected.  Olga led us on a merry dance – an intense 3 hours - through cobbled streets, towered medieval churches, ancient guild warehouses and countless statues to remind us of ancient and more modern times.  She should write a book; her knowledge of all the little details, including lots of fun facts, folklore & gossip is quite astonishing. 

All this was rather interesting but it seemed any hint of traditional craft & folk art had been missing from our tour so far.  GS had not done so well in her planning!  Still, it exists but modern design is more appealing to cities & countries rushing forward to join the modern world and mark their place in it. 

Any wonder, the history of the Baltic States is one huge revolving door of occupations.  It’s so interesting – and alarming – that it deserves a separate post.  So get your coffee ready for that one, coming soon!

Freedom Monument & blue sky - momentarily!

Black Balsam

We had arrived in Riga stiff from the bus, between showers and with gloomy grey clouds threatening boisterous activity ahead.  That did not stop us however from our local orientation walk – an essential if we were to make our way around the city (indeed anywhere really) on our own, with confidence or during such short stays.  Given we could barely remember our room numbers at this stage, you’ll understand the importance of this crucial activity. 

 

This time however, we ended up in a basement restaurant in Riga with the hip crowd eating plates of meat & mushroom stew….warming indeed given the coolish weather.  Local beer, wine and tastings of black balsam, a herby cough syrup tasting liquor, to follow did little to enhance our “pre-sharpened” homing skills but somehow we all showed up for breakfast the next morning.

Yes, GS discovered a shop of handcrafter's delights, Latvian Knits.

Time for a little shopping! 

As we had a few hours to fill in before our private transfer to Lithuania, the Cap’n made for the Occupation Museum, housed in a distinctly Soviet era building off Riga's main square.  

 

GS hoped to see inside the Three Brothers, merchant houses from various eras but it was closed. This led to finding  decent coffee, the delightful Latvian Knits store, markets with lots more handcraft and beautifully dyed wools and a browse around town to make up for it. 

Whilst on the topic of shopping, it should be noted that amber is readily available in the Baltic States.  Lithuania is said to be the main source of this fascinating fossilized tree resin, mostly fashioned into jewellery.  Amber has been valued since ancient times and an Amber Road (similar to the Silk Road) - a trading route between the Baltics and the Mediterranean existed. 

You must also have all heard of the famous (missing) amber room (1701) in the Catherine Palace near Saint Petersburg!  The original is still missing, but it has now been reproduced (2003) for us to marvel at.  A trip to Russia anyone?