Knitting in Riga

Riga, Latvia.  A land of Fairy Tales

House of the Blackheads (1334)

These Four Musicians bring
 good luck! A Grimm's Fairy Tale

Olga was our guide in Riga, capital of Latvia.  Riga’s old town is a little less Disney than Tallinn and certainly not treated with kid gloves, although it is well respected.  Olga led us on a merry dance – an intense 3 hours - through cobbled streets, towered medieval churches, ancient guild warehouses and countless statues to remind us of ancient and more modern times.  She should write a book; her knowledge of all the little details, including lots of fun facts, folklore & gossip is quite astonishing. 

All this was rather interesting but it seemed any hint of traditional craft & folk art had been missing from our tour so far.  GS had not done so well in her planning!  Still, it exists but modern design is more appealing to cities & countries rushing forward to join the modern world and mark their place in it. 

Any wonder, the history of the Baltic States is one huge revolving door of occupations.  It’s so interesting – and alarming – that it deserves a separate post.  So get your coffee ready for that one, coming soon!

Freedom Monument & blue sky - momentarily!

Black Balsam

We had arrived in Riga stiff from the bus, between showers and with gloomy grey clouds threatening boisterous activity ahead.  That did not stop us however from our local orientation walk – an essential if we were to make our way around the city (indeed anywhere really) on our own, with confidence or during such short stays.  Given we could barely remember our room numbers at this stage, you’ll understand the importance of this crucial activity. 

 

This time however, we ended up in a basement restaurant in Riga with the hip crowd eating plates of meat & mushroom stew….warming indeed given the coolish weather.  Local beer, wine and tastings of black balsam, a herby cough syrup tasting liquor, to follow did little to enhance our “pre-sharpened” homing skills but somehow we all showed up for breakfast the next morning.

Yes, GS discovered a shop of handcrafter's delights, Latvian Knits.

Time for a little shopping! 

As we had a few hours to fill in before our private transfer to Lithuania, the Cap’n made for the Occupation Museum, housed in a distinctly Soviet era building off Riga's main square.  

 

GS hoped to see inside the Three Brothers, merchant houses from various eras but it was closed. This led to finding  decent coffee, the delightful Latvian Knits store, markets with lots more handcraft and beautifully dyed wools and a browse around town to make up for it. 

Whilst on the topic of shopping, it should be noted that amber is readily available in the Baltic States.  Lithuania is said to be the main source of this fascinating fossilized tree resin, mostly fashioned into jewellery.  Amber has been valued since ancient times and an Amber Road (similar to the Silk Road) - a trading route between the Baltics and the Mediterranean existed. 

You must also have all heard of the famous (missing) amber room (1701) in the Catherine Palace near Saint Petersburg!  The original is still missing, but it has now been reproduced (2003) for us to marvel at.  A trip to Russia anyone?

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Moscow Mules at Ten Paces

Tallinn, Estonia.  A Loop of the Baltic

This is the 2015 Intrepid Oslo to Berlin Tour. The Baltic Loop
started in Helsinki, Finland and ended in Berlin, Germany

Very sturdy ocean-going ferries

Time for another ferry ride, but at least the sun was (sorta) shining for our trip across the Baltic to Estonia and the UNESCO Heritage Listed old town of Tallinn.  What a delight to wander through cobbled streets and enjoy the seriously medieval ambience.

I think the "modern" building behind the old city is the KGB Hotel & Museum??

But not before yet another 20km bike ride; this one courtesy of City Bikes and in the company of a knowledgeable guide, who allowed us to stop, often!  Our tail-end Charlie earned his keep this day as we photographers stopped regularly at unscheduled intervals to take yet more photos.  As you do!  This tour took us well out of the old city limits so we could appreciate the huge natural harbour and understand completely why Tallinn was yet another gold star in the strategic acquisitions program of the Hanseatic League. 

Tallin's calm yet picturesque harbour

After our ride, his Captainship headed off to the KGB Museum (he was less than complimentary on return) and GS made for an exhibition of European Masters from the Medieval and Renaissance times.  Housed within the Medieval Town Hall (the only surviving  Town Hall in the Gothic style of architecture) the exhibition was showcased brilliantly with many old masters that are rarely (if ever) seen at home.  What a treat!

After that, it was time to hit the shops and admire the local talent for knitting, spot incredibly cheap linen products and wish that luggage allowances were more generous.  The Katariina Guild, a row of craftsman’s studios housed in medieval workshops in an alley alongside the Katariina Monastery was home to leather, glass, ceramics, felt, milliners and textiles.  Finally, some fellow quilters!  

Such beautiful craftsmanship.
Oh darn, NO room in our suitcases! 

Given that our tour had become something of an eat-street review, it should be noted that we had an amazing dinner at a Medieval-style restaurant under the Town Hall.  We dined on ox rib, ate pies, drank wine from ceramic beakers, beer from jugs, and soup from bowls, and fished for pickles from a barrel – all with no cutlery (except a knife) and in a dark, atmospheric cellar.  It was certainly not a 5 star dining experience but heaps of fun. 

Another restaurant in the town square served bear meat, smoked beaver, wild mushrooms and the very best black caviar (at a mere 99€)…but we simply couldn't bear the thought of it...(Sorry!)  

Yes, Tallinn, although a favourite of Fins is also visited by crowds and crowds of Russians.

Meanwhile some of us had to stay home and take care of a few chores.  Namely drying the laundry!  (Note effective use of hairdryer for drying undies whilst on the internet...  He's such a natural!)

Also For those interested, a Moscow Mule is a cocktail of vodka, lime and ginger beer.  Self-preservation kicks in at times, especially as youth fades.  So, we developed instead, a fondness for Chilean wines, or even better, the local beer!