Blue Streets of Chefchaouen

Restinga Smir, Morocco

Itinerary Chefchaouen, Morocco: 5-7th October 2012.  Sail to Restinga Smir, Morocco.  (Also, just be sure WJ3’s really out of the EU.)  Taking time for a ride up to Chefchaouen to walk through blue streets of the walled Medina to the Kasbar… 

Goodbye Gibraltar, let's hope for a good sail south

Second stop on our “hectic” sailing schedule was Restinga Smir, an interesting introduction to Moroccan marinas.  From there we hired an ancient Mercedes, driven by an equally ancient Moroccan, up into the Rif Mountains to the delightful village of Chefchaouen. 

Old Medina walls, so pretty in blue

Artfully balanced beneath steep, grey peaks, the blue & white old medina is just perfect for getting lost in (well, finding yourself walking in circles actually!).  Originally the village was established as a Berber stronghold (1471), from which attacks on the then Portuguese settlement of Ceuta, were launched. Christians were forbidden to enter and those who tried paid the price with their lives. 

I feel a whole new change to our renovations coming on...

Thankfully, times have changed.  Our accommodation, Dar Ech-Chaouen was perfect; more so as it had a pool for a luxurious afternoon swim – well deserved after wandering the heavily terraced medina.  Our Cap’n resumed duties as “bag boy” while GS & BCK peered into every little bolt-hole shop, admiring everything from hand-woven hemp clothing, silver jewellery, woollen blankets and brass teapots.  And it was only week 1 of BCK’s four week stay with us…

Blue on mesmerising blue

We people watched in Plaza Uta el-Hammam over seriously sweet mint tea, commented on how laid back the merchants were in contrast to Marrakesh, then strolled the historic Kasbar and its quaint museum.  Here, GS was able to see some interesting examples of Berber embroidery, while the others strolled through the garden courtyard, marvelling at Moroccan plumbing.

Shops, shops and more shops (this one had dyes)

Later, we admired spectacular scenery as we wound our way back down by car to Smir.  Green valleys, full of life, contrasted with steep, stark peaks of the Rif Mountains.  Soon we reached Tetouan, a larger city at the mountain’s base and were astonished at the number of families who strolled tiny patches of green park, obviously a cherished Sunday evening ritual.  Even more paraded along the waterfront corniche at M’Diq, and quiet Marina Smir had come to life.  WJ3’s crew, tired from all that shopping, left late night partying to the locals and hit their bunks.  Relaxing Chefchaouen proved to be a perfect conclusion to the Motley Crew’s Moroccan sojourn. 

Come on girls!  We have to go.  There's no money left.

From: Gibraltar Lat/Long: 36:08. 963N  05:31.227W  Date/Time: 5/10/12: 1020

To: Restinga Smir, Morocco Lat/Long: 35:45.176N  05:20.542W  Date/Time: 5/10/12: 1440
Time Taken: 34.5nm (4.5hrs)  Distance (this year): 246nm (38.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 10483nm   Weather: Winds ESE 6-7kts; overcast    
Fastest Speed: A very calm intro to sailing for BCK; lots of dolphins frolicking about

On Tour with Hercules #2

Hercules in North Africa

11^th Herculean Labour: Apples of Hesperides

Well, I bet you thought we’d forgotten about our trusty hero.  No!  Hercules had been set a labour that involved travel to the Atlas Mountains.  (Atlas was the god who held the world on his shoulders.)  He was to search for golden apples.  Some say it was tangerines.  Some say he travelled to Libya (which is close enough to Morocco after all).  However, this is where the Atlas Mountains are located and as we know, Atlas was the lucky lad who got to hold the world upon his shoulders.

As we made our way through the Rif, Middle Atlas, High Atlas and Anti-Atlas Mountains we saw no sign of Hercules.  However, in Volubilis (once capital of Mauretania Tingitana) as we made our way through Roman ruins, there in  mosaic , was a record of our hero's famous labours.  So, merely a case of right place, wrong century!!

Here's the Wiki link for The Labours if you want to brush up!

Possibly the 7th Labour - The Cretan Bull - mosaic floor in Volubilis, Morocco

Accommodating Morocco

Hotel Taborihte Todra Gorge

One of the exciting opportunities we had whilst travelling in Morocco was to sample a variety of accommodations.  Most were family owned, recently restored and always worlds away from the Hyatt experience.  Yes, sometimes the hot water was cold, occasionally we had squat toilets and there were often lots of dark stairs to climb but the terraces offered wonderful views over busy medinas or dark desert skies filled to the brim with stars. 

Hotel Majestic, Meknes.  We might have to re-reno the reno's at home.

We had been told it is not in the Moroccan character to compete or be showy with wealth.  When it comes to their home, exteriors are kept plain and simple and do not indicate family size or wealth.  Doors are large, often with two openings; one larger to receive important guests and a smaller one for family members, obliging a respectful bow on entering the household.

Hotel Al Mamoun, Casablanca: very central

Once inside, rooms and narrow passages seem to multiply; a labyrinth and hive of family activity, including perhaps granaries and stables – if you were a king or noble!  Few have external windows as a courtyard, perhaps with a cooling fountain and/or garden and intricate tile-work, clearly defines the central hub.  

No photo of Jnan Sbile in Fes, so colourful tileworks instead

Colours vary; some are bright and enthusiastic, others are charming blue and white.  Ochres define mud brick constructions which range from simple walled gardens to huge fortresses.  Low brown Berber tents are stretched with hide and provide shelter from scorching desert heat.

Maison d'Hote La Fibule:
Action Houssain offers wonderful accommodation

Some of the types of accommodation you will find in Morocco are:

Riad: Riad literally translates as “garden” and they were traditionally built as a nobleman’s townhouse, often for reception or business purposes.  Built around a central garden, a riad provides the family with an escape from outside medina bustle.  The garden usually has olive, orange or palm trees, perfumed plantings and a central fountain.  Houses often have less than 12 rooms, are colourfully decorated and often come furnished with antiques or stylish local products.  Many are being renovated and offered as B&B accommodations, particularly in Marrakesh and Fes. 

Dar: Literally translates as “house”.  Generally we know it as a traditional townhouse with internal courtyard, sometimes enclosed.

Riad Dar el Qdima, Essaouira: Kitchen servery

Gite (said zheet): A gite is traditionally a rural holiday rental.  Usually a renovated traditional cottage, they offer rudimentary accommodation (a trekker’s hostel) or sometimes a homestay.

Gite Imin Tzlkert, Aremd: family-run gite with our view of Jebel Toubkal

Auberge: From the French, literally translates as inn or tavern. The Auberge we stayed in was a rambling collection of rooms around various courtyards.  It spread over quite a large land area.  Needless to say, it was in a rural setting on the outskirts of a small village.  Auberge Jaafar, located near Midelt, was surrounded by orange, walnut, almond and olive trees.  Here we were entertained by a Berber troupe.

Auberge Salama, Merzouga

Ksar: A Ksar (singular) or Ksour (plural) is a fort or fortified stronghold often made of pise (sundried clay or mud) and sporting battlements and bastions.  This is another construction of featuring a labyrinth of rooms, passages, streets and souks.  We had the pleasure of seeing two, Ait Benhaddou (the setting for Lawrence of Arabia) and El Korbat, where they have a small but interesting museum.  Even if you aren’t keen on museums, this little gem gives you a fantastic opportunity to get lost inside a real Ksar.

A crumbling ruin.  Most prefer modern accommodation now

Desert Camp: Traditional nomadic Berber-style accommodation for families.  A camp consists of low, brown tents made of waterproof hessian type cloth or animal hide sited for protection.  They are furnished with basic mattresses and blankets.  We had a generator for lighting at night – quite a luxury!

Azib: An azib is a seasonal shelter used by Berber shepherds when tending their roaming flock.  It is usually a modest tent, little furniture (if at all) and can have an internal fire or stove.

Medina: The old city or town, usually enclosed by a fortified wall.  Filled with a seeming chaotic collection of housing and souks that run along a labyrinth of narrow streets.  

Mellah: Jewish quarter of the medina

Hotel Caspien, Marrakesh: Foyer

Morocco Top Ten: Magicians & Carpet Baggers

Marrakesh, Morocco

#10.  Have dinner at the Djemaa el-Fna, Marrakesh

Marrakesh, although considered a tourist mecca, was for us an experience of limited charm.  It all began at the bus station in a heavy downpour.  Our taxi decided to evict us having been offered a better deal by an independent tourist.  We should have seen it coming.

Hand of Fatimah knocks

In the evening, we explored famous Djemaa el-Fna (Square of the Dead), taking dinner at one of the many food stalls.  Our small group was conspicuous and attracted beggars, hawkers, sweet sellers and musicians.  Our food reeked of “tourist trap”.  To be fair, it was still raining and a blistering Marrakesh had cooled down. Still, the tourist brochure entertainment at Djemaa el-Fna was just not happening, so we elected to return to the hotel.  In the meantime, our guide had been picked up and held by Police, his paperwork and credentials closely  inspected. 

Never a dull wardrobe

The next morning, our local guide had some difficulty in understanding our expectations for a day tour.  This was something of a concern because we were paying extra.  Our group was eventually whipped around some mosque ruins (1565), an interesting palace (Palais del la Bahia) and intricate Saadian Tombs before heading back into the Medina souks - for his kick-backs, we presumed.  Ah yes, Djemaa el-Fna in the daylight!  Our first experience of the “cobra wave”!  

One by one, snake charmers, under large umbrellas, poked hefty black snakes into action and played a few exotic notes on flutes as we walked past.  In the side streets, GS stopped to price a teapot.  Big mistake!  An old woman chased her through the medina determined to sell and was making quite a scene.  Polite refusals made no difference and eventually our guide put a stop to it.  There was quite a commotion.  

Deeper inside the medina, GS (not quick to learn from past experience) found another shop with teapots.  Having established a reasonable price, she decided to see what was on offer elsewhere. “Don’t bother coming back if  you don’t take my offer now”, said our less-than-humble shop owner. 

Majorelle Blues

A smartly dressed older man seemed to shadow us whilst we travelled through the city on a downtown bus.  It wasn’t until we were about to get off that we realised he had been trying to pick pockets.  He had, desperate to get a wallet, made a large cut in a fellow travellers pants with a sharp knife.  Nasty!  We should have taken a photo for our Guide to give to the Police.  I have to say though, that there was a decent Police presence in Marrakesh.

Our destination, the Majorelle Gardens, was a quiet (and secure haven) where we could gather our wits and experience a colourful Marrakesh in a painterly way. The small museum of Berber costume inside the Gardens is quite stunning and presented as only Yves St Laurent would have wanted it. The other Museum with fantastic costume displays well worth visiting in Marrakesh was Maison Tiskiwin, home since 1950 to Dutch expat, Bert Flint.  As you can imagine, his Berber collection is something to be admired (and desired).

Maison Tiskiwin

Teapot in hand, the Motleys fled for the overnight train to Tangier.  Our compartment buddies were two lovely boys, trainee teachers, about to travel to Brussels for study.  Both spoke very little English while the Motleys gargled French nouns (mostly made up words).  It was so much fun and the lads were so considerate, our misgivings about Marrakesh simply vanished.

Goodbye Tangier, we'll catch you another time for sure!

Moroccan Top Ten: Art Deco Heritage

Casablanca, Morocco

#9.  Visit the Hassan II Mosque

Having left Gibraltar very early, taken a 7am bus from La Línea de la Concepcióno across the border in Spain, arrived in Tarifa, boarded the 9am fast ferry to Tangier, dashed for the 11.30 train to Casablanca and then argued (as you do!) for a taxi fare to our hotel (also not booked), we felt we had achieved the ultimate in free-form travel.  The Motleys allowed two days to get to Casablanca and had made it in one.  We celebrated by having a beer (also a rare event in Islamic Morocco) and dinner in Hotel Al Mamoun.  This hotel had just the right Moroccan flavour with decorative tile work, French antiques and nightclub customers enjoying an evening shisha pipe. And they found us a room despite the fact we had arrived a day early.

Villa des Artes (Are we in Singapore?)

Next morning we set off to explore Casablanca, Morocco’s commercial hub that has a decidedly French flair and an Art-Deco vibe.  The city is an immediate assault on all senses.  Dirty, full of rubbish, people and chaotic traffic, all horns, braying donkeys and demanding touts eager to fleece your last dirham.  For all that, tourists were a rare enough site and we settled in to strolling with locals to see art deco gems left by colonial French.   Our first stop was the well cared for Villa des Arts, a restored 1930’s mansion that could have been equally at home in Singapore; now it’s an art gallery showcasing contemporary Moroccan art.

Tiles with style

From here we walked past the Cathedral du Sacre Coeur (1930), deconsecrated and dilapidated, into the old walled Medina, through narrow streets lined small shops and carts selling fresh produce, meat, fish, plastic shoes, computer spares and the ubiquitous mint tea.  We slid out into a government store (set prices) only to find the Cap’n cornered in the carpet section.  Pricing in Morocco proved to be dealing the ultimate in slippery little suckers…. 

Hassan II Mosque decorative detail

We took the opportunity to visit Hassan II Mosque the next morning.  Note: it is as far from Art Deco style as one can possibly imagine.  The Mosque is one of the largest religious buildings in the Islamic world.  It sits, perched out on the edge of the Atlantic coastline, and is reported to have cost some US$800m to construct.  The craftsmanship is absolutely superb though, with dazzling tile work, decorative fountains and stunning painted woodwork.  Fortunately, non-Muslims are allowed to visit this extravaganza where more than 100,000 devotees can come at any one time to pray.

Hassan II Mosque interior

The intrigue and romance of Hollywood and Ricks Café (Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman) eluded us.  The city has had many reiterations since its beginnings as a Phoenician trading post (6^th c BC). This was just one of them.  

Morocco Top Ten: Midnight at the Oasis

Todra Gorge, Moroocco

#8.  Walk a Palmeraie

Well, someone has to do it!

Flowing from the High Atlas, the River Dades winds its way through rugged red peaks, flat desert scapes and into the high narrow cliffs of Todra Gorge leaving a chain of lush green oasis along its course.   We were fortunate to have two days to appreciate this amazing scenery and sharp contrast of rich and meagre landscape.  The Gorge itself is a canyon with cliffs reaching some 300 feet high; we had the best of views from poolside deckchairs at Hotel Taborihte.  

A real oasis Todra Gorge

Still feeling miserable, the Motleys elected to spend the day poolside whilst others gallivanted through the palmeraie before taking in a Berber pizza.  The Cap’n breathed a sigh (heavy with relief) when they returned many hours later laden down with embroidered carpets, mostly wool and all coloured with vegetable dye.  GS was rested but furious…

Hotel photos only, not carpets (sadly)

Morocco Top Ten: Finding Fossils

Meknes, Morocco

#7.  Visit Imperial Cities & Roman Ruins in a day

Entrance to old Medina, Rabat

Rabat is Morocco’s political and administrative centre.  It is largely deserted of tourists, so we were able to roam at will, avoiding a local demonstration (and riot police), into the depths of the quiet medina.  We emerged at the entrance to a whitewashed Kasbah balancing neatly on cliffs overlooking a somewhat subdued Atlantic Ocean.  Given a walking tour map, we explored narrow cobbled streets, escaped from the heat in peaceful Andalucian Gardens and took in our first museum, the Musee de Oudaias, housed in a former palace.  From here we caught the train, 2½ hrs (in second class so that locals could appreciate fully our appalling French or Arabic) to Meknes. 

Meknes City Gates

Meknes (named for the original Meknassis Berber tribe 10^th c) is a modest town that we explored at leisure.  Youssef had set us another walking tour (having all returned after the last), and somehow our navigational skills held out yet again – although some were sorely tempted by market stalls of goodies along the way.  Sultan Moulay Ismail (1672-1727) made Meknes his capital and managed to control various warring factions and colonial powers to bring peace to a consolidated Morocco.  He was not only responsible for Morocco’s golden age but his family connections extend to the current monarchy.

Green, Pink or Black Olives, Madam or perhaps Preserved Lemons

On our way to Volubilis, we stopped briefly to see the pilgrim town of Moulay Idriss.  Each year thousands cram into this tiny town to celebrate the life of one of Morocco’s most venerated religious leaders.  From our vantage point, the town is said to look like a sleeping camel.  A fossil hawker literally appeared from nowhere, hopeful for a sale or two. We had been warned about the proliferation of fake goodies and therefore did not make his day!

Roman History in Volubilis

Volubilis was once a major Roman outpost (2-5^th c) of the province of Mauretania; its wealth derived from trade in commodities such as oil, wheat and wild animals for Rome’s gladiatorial exhibitions.  We met local guide Abdelhay, who explained that less than half of the site had been excavated, and much had been destroyed in the 1755 earthquake that rocked Portugal.   We certainly walked the walk and talked the talk as he took us back in time, showing us exquisite mosaic floors, the grand Triumphal Arch (217), public baths and houses of ill repute. Here, the Cap’n paid homage to certain Roman gods – let’s hope these photos don’t make it on Facebook!

It was a fascinating visit to this UNESCO World Heritage site (1977) and an opportunity to get close to Roman ruins without the crowds. The area is gradually being developed with a museum in the pipeline and further digs to explore  areas not yet excavated.  Later, whilst sheltering from afternoon heat at a nearby cafe, we developed our growing taste for refreshing, sugary mint tea.

Intricate Mosaic Floors Volubilis

Moroccan Top Ten: Laid Back Essaouira

Essaouira, Morocco 

#6.  Visit a Hammam

Essaouira was a welcome stop after our desert pilgrimage (and ahem, a touch of old Moroccan Misery!).  We stayed in a pleasant riad (Dar el Qdima) in the heart of the old medina, close to city ramparts and port.  Rachida expertly guided us around town pointing out interesting features, including the markets, port, old city defensive walls built by the Portuguese, restaurants for a later “nus-nus” (milk coffee) fix, and best of all, how to get back to our Riad through the maze of streets.  

Our Guide leads us through the richly decorated old medina

We didn’t swim on the beaches here, though neither did many Moroccans.  Powerful and cold Atlantic waters were attracting a surfing and windsurfing crowd, though not a sport for us. Having walked the Port earlier with its large and ancient sardine fishing fleet, we knew swimming was not an option there either; the waters were a bit grim.   However a couple of sailing yachts had berthed, so the Cap’n took note for “later” options to explore.  

Every sailor's dream....

Essaouira translates from Arabic as “image”.  In 1765, the Sultan employed a French architect to design a medina with a grid of relatively wide streets, to attract European merchants away from rival trading towns along the coastline.  The city has since attracted more than merchants with the likes of Orson Wells, Jimi Hendrix and film-maker, Ridley Scott (Kingdom of Heaven).  The alternate theme abounds with plenty of dreadlocks (on European visitors), large portraits of Che Guevara, and laid back Gnaoua musicians (local sufi/soul music inspired by African slaves). 

Fort Protection

We shopped in hassle free markets, bought silver jewellery (as you do), ate fresh lobster grilled beside the Skala du Port, explored the medina again and snapped up a few more bargains. Sadly, the purple dye that Essaouira was once famous for, now no longer exists.  Murex, a shellfish and source of the dye, were fished to provide Roman Emperors with their robes of rank. The Iles Purpuraires now remain only in name.

Spices.  How do they do that?

Time to relax in Essaouira took on a whole new meaning with a visit to the nearby hammam or Moroccan communal steam bath.  The Cap’n bravely stepped up for the complete experience, including a gummage (or scrub) with mud pack and then body massage.   Our exhausted Cap’n returned with tales of his body being pummelled and kneaded for hours by an enthusiastic “Berber Bear”.

Meanwhile, some other kneading was going on in town

Morocco Top Ten: Just a Little Effort Required

Aremd, Toubkal National Park, Morocco

#5.  Trek in the High Atlas

All “Top Ten’s” require some kind of physical activity.  Skiing in Morocco was suggested.  Sure!  It was only 42 degrees the day we went through Marrakesh.  Surfing sounded a better option but it was unseasonably windless and waveless in Essaouira, so that’s off the list too!  What did we do then?  Climb a jolly big yarma in the High Atlas, that’s what…

Heading up & down and up & down...

After leaving Ait Benhaddou, our little bus gamely tackled the giddy heights of Tizi n Tichka Pass (lovingly referred to as Chicken Tika at 2260m) before turning off into the Toubkal region to the town of Imlil (1740m).  Here we mounted our sturdy mules (or walked) 45 mins uphill to the Gite Imin Tzikert, happily situated on the banks of a seasonal river (snow melt, darlings!) at Aremd (1900m).  The mountains seemed to surround us, as did the muezzin’s evening call to prayer as it circulated round valley mosques.  

Our host, “Tagine” Hussain made us feel most welcome with mint tea served on the terrace in full sight of North Africa’s highest peak, Jebel Toubkal (4167m) only about a 10k stroll away.  The family then fed us grandly with olives, couscous, tagines, plenty of fresh bread and local fruit.  We needed our strength for the trip up into the mountains to the Sidi Chamharouch Shrine (2350m) next morning.

There was movement at the station.....whoa there boy!

Had GS realised that Guide Hammid was to walk us uphill for 2 hours, perhaps she would have eaten less for dinner.  Actually, we did well, ascending in the early morning cool.  Sidi (Saint) Chamharouch is considered the king of the djinns and many, many devout pilgrims make this trek to absolve sins, heal sickness, find good luck, fend off bad spirits or simply improve life's daily grind. 

We stopped to sip tea in the village near this tiny shrine, imaging ourselves to be the only foreigners in situ.  The shrine building is quiet simple but majestic in its surrounds.  The shrine itself within, is a large rock painted white.  It is thought to be Marabout (pre-Islamic) in origin and is famous for its animal sacrifices intended to drive off bad djinns.  Only Muslims are allowed over the stone bridge to visit the shrine.

Later, somewhat recovered, we made our way down to the Gite (lunch was waiting), hurrying passed crowds struggling uphill in the heat.  Refreshed we then made our way downhill to Imlil, passing a woman singing the praises of Allah at the top of her voice as she bumped upwards on her mule.  We just wanted to see Moulay and our mini bus – no more walking!! For a few hours at least.

Shrine of Sidi Chamharouch (the top for us)

Morocco Top Ten: Riff Resort

Chefchaouen, Morocco

#4.  Chefchaouen

This blue and white medina up high in the Riff Mountains has won many hearts and minds including ours.  But more on that adventure later when we visit with our friend, Miss BCK….

Seriously Blue and White

Forget the blog, we've got shopping to plan..

Morocco Top Ten: Lights, Camera, Action...

Ait Benhaddou, Morocco

#3.  Learn to cook Moroccan foods (with Mr Action)

Our minibus ride took us through some spectacular desert scenery near the High Atlas Mountains.  Clearly, movie directors saw the potential of the area many years ago, so there is a thriving “Mollywood” industry in town. Once a French garrison town, Ouarzazate (war zazat) is now movie-land providing perfect scenery for movies set in far off countries such as Tibet, Egypt, ancient Rome and more. 

Ksar at Ait Benhaddou

Our hectic schedule allowed us time to visit to Handicapped Project Horizon, a most worthy charity; a herbalist to try out some of his youth giving lotions & potions and then the Atlas Film Studios.  (Sadly, the Cap’n was not “spotted” by a talent scout to appear as Gladiator’s  double.)  We missed walking the Taourirt Kasbah but managed to take in the imam’s evening call to pray echoing over Ait Benhaddou’s valley as we settled in to our dinner on Mr Action Houssain’s terrace. The Ksar at Ait Benhaddou is a stunning fortress castle in near perfect condition; Lawrence of Arabia and Gladiator were both filmed here.

Photogenic Mr Action Houssain, film star & celebrity cook

Mr Action has indeed appeared in many films as an extra.  However for us, he became a most genial host (Maison d’Hote La Fibule) and a top cooking class demonstrator.   He later confessed that his sister and mother do most of the cooking.  Our couscous and tagines were delicious.  Though we were disappointed not to have Russell Crowe pop in to share some supper …  

See, we do so look alike...