Morocco Top Ten: Finding Fossils

Meknes, Morocco

#7.  Visit Imperial Cities & Roman Ruins in a day

Entrance to old Medina, Rabat

Rabat is Morocco’s political and administrative centre.  It is largely deserted of tourists, so we were able to roam at will, avoiding a local demonstration (and riot police), into the depths of the quiet medina.  We emerged at the entrance to a whitewashed Kasbah balancing neatly on cliffs overlooking a somewhat subdued Atlantic Ocean.  Given a walking tour map, we explored narrow cobbled streets, escaped from the heat in peaceful Andalucian Gardens and took in our first museum, the Musee de Oudaias, housed in a former palace.  From here we caught the train, 2½ hrs (in second class so that locals could appreciate fully our appalling French or Arabic) to Meknes. 

Meknes City Gates

Meknes (named for the original Meknassis Berber tribe 10^th c) is a modest town that we explored at leisure.  Youssef had set us another walking tour (having all returned after the last), and somehow our navigational skills held out yet again – although some were sorely tempted by market stalls of goodies along the way.  Sultan Moulay Ismail (1672-1727) made Meknes his capital and managed to control various warring factions and colonial powers to bring peace to a consolidated Morocco.  He was not only responsible for Morocco’s golden age but his family connections extend to the current monarchy.

Green, Pink or Black Olives, Madam or perhaps Preserved Lemons

On our way to Volubilis, we stopped briefly to see the pilgrim town of Moulay Idriss.  Each year thousands cram into this tiny town to celebrate the life of one of Morocco’s most venerated religious leaders.  From our vantage point, the town is said to look like a sleeping camel.  A fossil hawker literally appeared from nowhere, hopeful for a sale or two. We had been warned about the proliferation of fake goodies and therefore did not make his day!

Roman History in Volubilis

Volubilis was once a major Roman outpost (2-5^th c) of the province of Mauretania; its wealth derived from trade in commodities such as oil, wheat and wild animals for Rome’s gladiatorial exhibitions.  We met local guide Abdelhay, who explained that less than half of the site had been excavated, and much had been destroyed in the 1755 earthquake that rocked Portugal.   We certainly walked the walk and talked the talk as he took us back in time, showing us exquisite mosaic floors, the grand Triumphal Arch (217), public baths and houses of ill repute. Here, the Cap’n paid homage to certain Roman gods – let’s hope these photos don’t make it on Facebook!

It was a fascinating visit to this UNESCO World Heritage site (1977) and an opportunity to get close to Roman ruins without the crowds. The area is gradually being developed with a museum in the pipeline and further digs to explore  areas not yet excavated.  Later, whilst sheltering from afternoon heat at a nearby cafe, we developed our growing taste for refreshing, sugary mint tea.

Intricate Mosaic Floors Volubilis