A Smidge of Spain in Morocco

Ceuta Marina, Spain

Itinerary Ceuta, Spain: 9th October 2012.  Ceuta, (said “suit  ah”) is a Spanish enclave on the north African coast where we plan to wait out the right tides, winds and shipping, to get through the Strait of Gibraltar.  An exit from the Med back into Atlantic waters. 

We had high hopes for Ceuta.  Described as a little gem on the edge of Africa, it has been in existence since Phoenician times.  It is compact, boasts green open plazas, grey sandy beaches - and is closed from 1.30 until 5pm daily.  This was our day:

 #1. Macca’s (for internet of course) – closed until 12 mid-day.  What???

We took our own tour outside the Royal Walls in Bruce

#2. Dinghy tour of the canal between the medieval Royal Walls (5^th c) – and a “no entry” sign in Spanish…but we did anyway.  Oooops!

#3. Plaza de Africa.  A tropical green space sheltered by an 18th c church with lots of baroque gold work; a more austere 17th c cathedral but having some of its huge artworks being painstakingly restored; a small cathedral museum (closing at 1pm) and a Phoenician settlement uncovered in recent times.

We did a little shopping,sweetie

And a little sightseeing

#4. We walked to the Museo del la Legion via the corniche overlooking two popular town beaches.  Clearly not everyone goes home for lunch!  Important to keep that Med suntan up somehow!  Having made the museum with 20 mins to spare, we were able, after a passport check, to dash about checking out military memorabilia (1920’s onwards).  The Spanish Legion continues its desert and border duties today.

Wedding Cake anyone?  Topped with Dragons too...

#5. After avoiding enlistment, we hurried on to Plaza de los Reyes, sidestepping more beggars than we’d seen in the whole of Morocco, then on to the Casa de los Dragones.   More Disney than baroque, this former home, now beautifully restored typifies Cueta (well, on the outside, anyway). 

#6. Well ahead of schedule by now, we stopped for a quick tapas lunch before heading off to the Parque Maritimo del Mediterraneo, a huge pool/bar/restaurant/casino complex for a quick dip.  Just our luck – the pools were as empty as the restaurants.  A few young ladies sunned themselves, cooling off under showers as necessary, beside gull strewn, empty lagoons and waterless waterfalls.  The Casino opened at 10pm for action.  Welcome to Spain. 

Time for your sea survival training BCK

#7. What’s next?  Well, Macca’s might be open by now….  Except, right on 4pm, a thick, cold fog settled in over the marina. 

You promised me sun on this trip...where is it?

 

From: Restinga Smir, Morocco  Lat/Long: 35:45.176N  05:20.542W  Date/Time: 8/10/12: 1100
To: Ceuta, Spain  Lat/Long: 35:53.412N  06:17.042W   Date/Time: 8/10/12: 1330
Time Taken: 15.5nm (2.5hrs)  Distance (this year): 261.5nm (41hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 10498.5nm   Weather: Very little wind; slightly foggy   
Fastest Speed: Motoring; BCK tried her hand at fishing – sadly, no fresh fish dinner!

Of course, our friend Hercules was in this part of the world too, sorting out those famous Pillars, all the while searching for apples. The Pillars warn and protect us as mariners and I think we need it given the heavy fog across the strait.  We are heading out to the dreaded Atlantic, of course, and need all the help we can get!  (Truthfully, we're off to Cadiz for their famous ham and sherry...)

Cueta.  Photos thanks to BCK

From our vantage point (exiting the harbour), Hercules looks a bit lost in this landscape.  It might interest you to know that Hercules is 7 metres high.  This sculpture is said to be the largest bronze sculpture of a Classical Greek subject in the world.  This work is by Ceuta artist, Ginés Serrán.