Accommodating Morocco

Hotel Taborihte Todra Gorge

One of the exciting opportunities we had whilst travelling in Morocco was to sample a variety of accommodations.  Most were family owned, recently restored and always worlds away from the Hyatt experience.  Yes, sometimes the hot water was cold, occasionally we had squat toilets and there were often lots of dark stairs to climb but the terraces offered wonderful views over busy medinas or dark desert skies filled to the brim with stars. 

Hotel Majestic, Meknes.  We might have to re-reno the reno's at home.

We had been told it is not in the Moroccan character to compete or be showy with wealth.  When it comes to their home, exteriors are kept plain and simple and do not indicate family size or wealth.  Doors are large, often with two openings; one larger to receive important guests and a smaller one for family members, obliging a respectful bow on entering the household.

Hotel Al Mamoun, Casablanca: very central

Once inside, rooms and narrow passages seem to multiply; a labyrinth and hive of family activity, including perhaps granaries and stables – if you were a king or noble!  Few have external windows as a courtyard, perhaps with a cooling fountain and/or garden and intricate tile-work, clearly defines the central hub.  

No photo of Jnan Sbile in Fes, so colourful tileworks instead

Colours vary; some are bright and enthusiastic, others are charming blue and white.  Ochres define mud brick constructions which range from simple walled gardens to huge fortresses.  Low brown Berber tents are stretched with hide and provide shelter from scorching desert heat.

Maison d'Hote La Fibule:
Action Houssain offers wonderful accommodation

Some of the types of accommodation you will find in Morocco are:

Riad: Riad literally translates as “garden” and they were traditionally built as a nobleman’s townhouse, often for reception or business purposes.  Built around a central garden, a riad provides the family with an escape from outside medina bustle.  The garden usually has olive, orange or palm trees, perfumed plantings and a central fountain.  Houses often have less than 12 rooms, are colourfully decorated and often come furnished with antiques or stylish local products.  Many are being renovated and offered as B&B accommodations, particularly in Marrakesh and Fes. 

Dar: Literally translates as “house”.  Generally we know it as a traditional townhouse with internal courtyard, sometimes enclosed.

Riad Dar el Qdima, Essaouira: Kitchen servery

Gite (said zheet): A gite is traditionally a rural holiday rental.  Usually a renovated traditional cottage, they offer rudimentary accommodation (a trekker’s hostel) or sometimes a homestay.

Gite Imin Tzlkert, Aremd: family-run gite with our view of Jebel Toubkal

Auberge: From the French, literally translates as inn or tavern. The Auberge we stayed in was a rambling collection of rooms around various courtyards.  It spread over quite a large land area.  Needless to say, it was in a rural setting on the outskirts of a small village.  Auberge Jaafar, located near Midelt, was surrounded by orange, walnut, almond and olive trees.  Here we were entertained by a Berber troupe.

Auberge Salama, Merzouga

Ksar: A Ksar (singular) or Ksour (plural) is a fort or fortified stronghold often made of pise (sundried clay or mud) and sporting battlements and bastions.  This is another construction of featuring a labyrinth of rooms, passages, streets and souks.  We had the pleasure of seeing two, Ait Benhaddou (the setting for Lawrence of Arabia) and El Korbat, where they have a small but interesting museum.  Even if you aren’t keen on museums, this little gem gives you a fantastic opportunity to get lost inside a real Ksar.

A crumbling ruin.  Most prefer modern accommodation now

Desert Camp: Traditional nomadic Berber-style accommodation for families.  A camp consists of low, brown tents made of waterproof hessian type cloth or animal hide sited for protection.  They are furnished with basic mattresses and blankets.  We had a generator for lighting at night – quite a luxury!

Azib: An azib is a seasonal shelter used by Berber shepherds when tending their roaming flock.  It is usually a modest tent, little furniture (if at all) and can have an internal fire or stove.

Medina: The old city or town, usually enclosed by a fortified wall.  Filled with a seeming chaotic collection of housing and souks that run along a labyrinth of narrow streets.  

Mellah: Jewish quarter of the medina

Hotel Caspien, Marrakesh: Foyer