Fast & Furious to Istanbul

Istanbul, Turkey

Our chariot (taxi) driver rather liked history

Well, here we are.  Istanbul - back where we started all those months ago!  Now, if I said it was raining, would you believe me?  The overnight bus from Plovdiv and associated stops at border points meant we had little sleep.  Jumping a taxi at the huge downtown bus terminal in the bleak early hours meant a fast ride into the city centre.  Zooming along at 130kph (“Put your seatbelts on”, yelled George as we left.), this ride was better than caffeine.  Still, unlike last time, we actually made it to the front door of our hotel.  No time to spare though….quick, I need a bathroom!

We had organised a few days to recover in Istanbul and used the time to re-visit (perhaps for the last time) our favourite city.  Well, actually they’re all our favourites but there’s just something about Istanbul.  Even Mark Twain would agree! 

Cavalry Bazaar - clearly one of us doesn't like shopping...

Old timber cottages behind the Blue Mosque

So, it's goodbye to Hagia Sophia then

Of course, Wednesday was Republic Day, so as if in a dream, we walked around town from the Cavalry Bazar to the Spice Bazar amongst a huge crowd enjoying their public holiday.  The next day we took shelter from heavier rain in the Grand Bazaar until overwhelmed, then took to the quieter corridors of the Archaeological Museum.  With wet shoes and a certain lack of enthusiasm, we then spent a day at the hotel enjoying a late breakfast and a bit of doing nothing much.  We discovered though, that the Museum of Turkish Arts is well on the way with its renovation plans and finding an Economist magazine in English is a bit of a challenge. 

Finally it was time to catch the tram to Atatürk Airport and check out of Turkey.  No more muezzins’ calls, no more carpets and no more cats’ meows. 

 

So ends our seventh season, which started with a visit to Troy & Gallipoli, then continued on in leisurely boating style:

• a memorable cruise up Turkey's west coast,
• a quick sail through the Greek Aegean Islands,
• taking a red panda to explore ruin-strewn Peloponnese, 
• a lingering sail round the Ionians before
• dashing to Albania to explore this little visited (by sail boats) country. 

Pre-haul out in Preveza Marina - washing sails

Finally, it was back to Preveza for haul out.  Windjammer has settled into a yard shared with donkeys, goats and friendly dogs.  She won't be missing us at all.  With WJ3 safely in her cradle, we took off to visit George & Annette in Vienna before taking our Intrepid trip to Eastern Europe. 

 

We'll be back next year for some more slow boating, the general plan to make it to Italy. More or less. Watch this space for plans as they evolve...

Slow boating

 (A reminder of our happy watery trails (the map & tracker) can be found here.)

So it's goodbye & A Very Merry Christmas 2014 from us

Stones & Bones

Bergama, Turkey

Temple of Trajan, Acropolis in Pergamum

There was one more pile of rocks we felt inclined to explore in Turkey - Pergamum - and we’re very glad we did.  The site is neither as restored nor visited as Ephesus but it is grand indeed.  A lot has to do with its location - being perched, breathtakingly, above a dusty agricultural town, surrounded by desolate mountain ranges and lush agricultural valleys (well, lush for the Med!). 

We started with coffee at the Bergama otogar (bus station), joining a group of old men chattering, drinking cay (chai or tea) and constantly smoking under a shady grapevine arbour. I’m guessing that most visitors bus in on guided tours, for our wanderings attracted rather more attention than we’re used to.   We planned to hire a taxi for a round of sites and, kindly, our proprietors phoned a first-class one for us.

Revived by coffee, we hit the ruins.  So, with a guide book tucked under our arms, we took our own walking tour of the Acropolis.  Pergamum’s fortunes improved after Lysimachus (one of Alexander’s generals) acquired it after 334BC.  From then, a succession of rulers built the Anatolian Kingdom into a powerful, prosperous, and cultural centre that stood as an important gateway between Syria and Macedonia.

Death-defying night at the Theatre

The Temple of Trajan, the only surviving Roman structure, has been given a modest makeover (German archaeologists with a fondness for complex architectural descriptors in the signposting) that gives some insight into this city’s magnificence in its heyday. Walking north, we found the Arsenal with advantageous views across the plains and down to a large lake.  After scrambling over the ruins of Eumenes II’s Palace, we stopped in the shade of an olive tree to imagine the fabulous Library that was to eventually contest that of Egypt’s Alexandria; not without some international repercussion.  The most impressive site however, must have been the Theatre. Economically built into the side of an almost vertical cliff, its elongated shape marks its architectural brilliance.  It would not however, be the place to sit on blustery days.  I had visions of spectators rolling down the side of the hill, rather like those unfortunate cows in the Azores.

Finishing with the Acropolis, we took a brief tour of the huge Red Basilica.  Originally built and dedicated to Egyptian gods in 2^nd c AD, it was declared by Christians as a Devil’s throne. Currently undergoing a massive renovation, we were only able to access a small circular side building that houses a few interesting pieces of sculpture. Behind though, shedloads of yet more discoveries were stored, awaiting perhaps, a generous and interested benefactor. 

Egyptian influence is rather apparent at the Red Basilica

In a lower valley, sit the ruins of the Asclepion, an ancient treatment centre where patients undertook therapies including mud baths, bathing in sacred waters, herbal remedies and ointments.  Not pregnant women or the dying though!. Perhaps it was bad for their health.  Or indeed hindered success rate statistics & subsequently government grants?  Galen (AD 131-210) was the most eminent physician to practise and teach here.  His studies formed a strong foundation for the practice and principles of medicine as we know it today. 

Another Fountain of Youth - yeah, yeah!

View of the lofty Pergamum Acropolis from the Asclepion 

On the way out of the Asclepion, our Cap’n noticed a garage of M60 tanks.  After brief greetings (through a strongly wired fence) with a crew taking a cigarette break, there was pause for a reflective moment.  Did I notice some bleary eyes?  

Back at the otogar, we sipped cay, again to the curiosity of all, until our considerate bus driver sent a young man to fetch us.  The experience of the day however transpired at the Ayvalik otogar when we changed buses for the marina.  The Cap’n took the chance for a quick loo break, letting the driver know.  Ah, but it was the wrong driver…  A replacement driver jumped aboard and gunned the engine ready for the trip to town.  Previously silent passengers suddenly erupted in general chat, which was silenced after a young man was sent to find the errant foreigner. There is something wonderfully rewarding in the kindness of strangers – all without a word of English!

Aeolian Coasting

Ayvalik, Turkey

We know from our time travelling through Sicily that Aeolus was god of the winds.  He finally caught up with us in Kusadasi as we slogged north-west for 9 hours, finally resting at the head of an isolated bay, surrounded, of course, by fields of monster wind generators.   

Mersin anchorage - more sheltered than it looks

Eski Foca - a bit too crowded to feel comfortable anchoring here

From there, we crept northwards past Cesme on Turkey’s most western point into a guaranteed wind funnel between it and nearby Chios Island (Greece) before finally setting sail across to Eski Foca.  Eski means “old”, and like just about every nook and cranny along this coast, it is the site of an ancient settlement or harbour.  The bones of the old settlement however have long been buried under new resorts, formal-fronted military academies and buildings that will probably not last the centuries. The town appeared to be a nice low-key resort but barking dogs, pounding disco music and loud voices carrying over the still night did not entice us to stay long.  A colony of monk seals, said to inhabit nearby islands, must have been of the same opinion.

Badlemi Limani, remote and peaceful

Happily we discovered Bademli, a lovely setting with sparkling turquoise water over white sand that made us think fondly of the Caribbean - except for the surrounding acres of ancient olive groves!  Here, on anchor, we safely hid for a few days from strong winds exploring surrounding islands and greasy hot springs in Bruce.   For the first time in ages we managed a snorkel in relatively clear waters, finding a few jittery fish and lots of spikey sea urchins.  We were joined in our quiet reverie firstly by Aussies “Rafaela” and then “Common Sense” with whom we’ve been playing tag along the coast. 

 

Bathing Beauties.  Clear waters and hot springs

In favourable breezes, we made for Ayvalik.  The area contrasts sharply with Turkey’s rugged south coast; an interesting collection of pine-clad islands offers a narrow channel, the Fairway, into Ayvalik Lake, an almost totally landlocked bay.  Deep within, we have on offer a range of sheltered, if not shallow anchorages from which to plan our assault on Greece.  We caught up again with Carol & Terry (Common Sense) in Camlik Koyu.  We shared stories, had a few laughs and discovered that we’d been playing tag since our time in the US.  “Ah, remember squeezing into Jackson Creek?”  It was like “old home” week.  Great fun!

Unusual waterfront mansion from the times of Sultans & Harems perhaps?

From: Kusadasi, Turkey Lat/Long: 37:52.255N 27:15.760E Date/Time: 20/06/14: 0925
To: Ayverlik, Turkey Lat/Long: 39:17.434N 26:39.884E Date/Time: 25/06/14: 1230
Time Taken: 154.5nm (27hrs) Distance (this year): 339nm (60hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13672nm   Weather: WNW-NW-NE 10-20kts;
Fastest Speed: 5.9kts; under motor with an occasional sail just to remember how to do it

Rock Hopper's PMD

Kusadasi, Turkey

"We'll all be rooned," said Hanrahan...

Our purpose for taking a marina berth (aside from fuel, water and long, hot showers - you know, the essentials) was to visit a trio of lesser known but none-the-less important archaeological sites - Priene, Miletus and Didyma.  Our Lonely Planet guide book reminds us; many of the most famous Hellenistic cities are not in Greece, but in Turkey. 

We are currently sailing the Ionian Coast, the ancient Gulf of Latmos now silted beyond recognition by the winding River Menderes (hence “meander”). 

 

The Ionians who settled here established a kingdom that was to give rise to a most influential civilisation.  This was where Homer, amongst others of this ilk, came from.

Temple of Athena - goddess of war, seems appropriate really, on many levels

Oh look, it's Hermes!

Having already visited the impressive Ephesus, we were pleased to find Priene in good shape (relatively speaking).  It is picturesquely situated in a glade of pines with Mt Mykale (of solid marble) looming overhead.   Thankfully, Menderes had done its worst by the time the Romans came so Priene’s value as a city of importance had declined.  As such, we walked well planned and cobbled streets of a Hellenistic city with its intimate theatre, city council meeting place, gymnasium, stadium and temples.  Some restoration work had been completed on the main temple, Temple of Athena and we were suitably impressed by the size of those huge, white marble columns.  One can only imagine how breathtaking a site this must have been to visitors arriving by boat across the turquoise waters of the Latmos Gulf.

Nearby Miletus was the richest and most powerful of the Ionian cities.  It was the League’s principle port, a centre of government and commerce.  It was “improved” by the Romans and then destroyed by the Persians.  The River Menderes had its own agenda and by 700 AD, the port was heavily silted and islands, mere bumps on a flood plain.  The site remained occupied – farming replaced fishing – and it wasn’t until the 1950’s when a severe earthquake destroyed the village that people were encouraged to move on.

Great Theatre, Miletus

The theatre in Miletus is in good condition and it is easy to see, rather like looking at layers of sediment, how individual civilizations had built it up over time.  The Great Theatre, seating 15000, has Ionian underpinnings.  On that, the Romans added several floors and finally, a once great Byzantine castle is now a crumbling crown.  We had time to explore the Baths of Faustina, a huge complex that attests to Miletus’ importance and Emperor Marcus Aurelius’ influence.  A small army of slaves would have been essential to keeping the Baths at their best.  Beyond the Baths we found a beautifully restored mosque dated to 1404 and a Seljuk caravanserai.

Exquisite carving, Temple of Apollo in Didyma

Earthquake shattered column

 

Have I got that pose right yet, BCK?

After visiting sites in isolated locations, Didyma appears to have been swallowed whole by coastal resort developments.  Strangely, this seems to fit Didyma’s function – a religious sanctuary.  For over 1400 years, people came from far & wide to visit the largest (Ionic) temple in the world, the Temple of Apollo.  It was occupied by an oracle whose fame was renown; the site as important as Delphi. 

Earthquakes, Persians, conquerors, treasure hunters, land developers and others have all contributed to the decline of this once great complex.  However, it is still incredibly awe-inspiring to walk through those great chunks of marble, touch carvings of fire-breathing monsters and be glared at by the famed Medusa.

Thanks, Mate..you're a real treasure!

Travelling North

Marmaris to Kusadasi, Turkey

Leaving Marmaris

Ancient Citadel of Loryma: Bozuk Buku

Finally, since breaking free from our anchorage in Marmaris, we’ve had a dream run travelling north – so far, touch wood.  A slight breeze from the west kicked in with our departure and the many delights of this part of the world became apparent.  Our only regret is we cannot visit the numerous Dodecanese (Greek) Islands that are so, so temptingly close to the Turkish coast. (We don't want to sign in and have the Schengen clock - 3 months - tick away too early.)  Still, we march on undeterred and have snagged a few isolated and lovely anchorages despite the coast appearing to be one huge resort. 

Kizil Adasi Passage: Bozburun

Full Moon over Datca

Not quite moonlight: the bright party lights of Datca

We are currently sitting in a marina in Kusadasi, civilization close at hand with 4 vast cruise ships lining nearby docks.  This is the stop off point for visits to Ephesus, but even so, it is a popular resort area for British and Russians.  We know this for sure because the local Migros (supermarket) has bacon.  Our end of the dock could well be renamed “kangaroo corner” as we’ve bumped into Aussies on boats by the bucket load since docking.  ("Awatea" - yes, I know a Kiwi & "Apricari" with an electric motored bike that I'm now lusting after!)

Resorts & Hot Water Boats in Yalikavak

Ah, the Serenity! Paradise Bay, Kazikli Limani 

Our sights are set on Avyalik, so there’s a bit of distance yet to cover.  We have another 2 weeks before setting sail for Greece (float plan dependant on the arrival of the Meltemi and hindered by Schengen visa time).   Never enough time to get our heads around the history and culture of this fascinating corner of the world!   Perhaps just enough for one last visit to a carpet shop though…

Byzantine Forts & Floating Cities: Kusadasi

From: Marmaris, Turkey Lat/Long: 36:49.449N 28:18.816E Date/Time: 10/06/14: 0620
To: Kusadasi, Turkey Lat/Long: 37:52.255N 27:15.760E Date/Time: 17/06/14: 1215
Time Taken: 184nm (33hrs) Distance (this year): 184.5nm (33hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13517.5nm   Weather: WSW 8-10kts;
Fastest Speed: Varied from motoring in dead calm to some very pleasant sailing

Plummeting Gulls Gale

Pupa Yat Anchorage, Marmaris, Turkey

I’ve decided to name this gale after the giant gulls that seem to be the only ones really enjoying themselves at this very moment.  The pilot notes that historically, a number of “regular” gales are named after birds.  So here they are swooping and soaring in gusts anywhere between 20-40 kts.   Others, gathered over an exposed sandbank, seem to be leaping and hopping in a mad crowd wave, all rather pleased with themselves.  It could be gale choreographed hi-jinks.

We, on the other hand, are happy daylight offers visibility – a necessity when anchors are dragging, boat dinghies flipping and tempers flaring.   We’re also grateful that our little discussion with the excitable Italians late last night (at 9pm) gave the Cap’n the sh*ts, providing him with incentive to move closer to shore.  Those six gulets currently hogging the shoreline (med moored) have hardly moved; WJ3 has fared only slightly worse whilst those further out in the anchorage are really copping it. 

The Cap’n is reporting in with his truth seeking binoculars on general activities and we’ve even snooped on a VHF radio call or two.  Who needs TV?  This is only our third day out and so far we’re grateful that WJ3’s basics are holding up ok.  Big Bertha (our Rochna anchor) is again being a dream girl while we spin and whirl to the tune of those nasty gusts.  Our decks are covered in fine red sand; a sure sign that Africa’s sand dunes march irrevocably toward Europe.  Meanwhile, the Italians are still giving us clandestine glances....

Waiting, waiting... for the gale to end

 From: Marmaris, Turkey Lat/Long: 36:49.173N 28:18.475E Date/Time: 2/06/14: 1600
To: Marmaris, Turkey Lat/Long: 36:49.555N 28:18.899E Date/Time: 3/06/14: 2100
Time Taken: 0.5nm (hrs) Distance (this year): 0.5nm (hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13333.5nm   Weather: Unsettled;
Fastest Speed: under motor (sails released from their bags for the season & put up out on the anchorage)

And now for some Launch Photos:

Our "backyard" views.  The Cap'n is off to find our splash time.

Firstly, we're given a dink

Then, it's the BIG lift again

A Forest of Bunny Ears

Istanbul, then on to Marmaris, Turkey

Kaiser Wilhelm's Fountain 1901 only recently restored

Back to cosmopolitan Istanbul with just enough time to visit the remnants of this once Byzantine city, eastern capital of the Roman Empire and capital of the Christian world for over a thousand years.  We started with Hagia Sophia (again, GS is besotted), strolled around the Hippodrome taking in the recently restored Kaiser Wilhelm’s fountain (1901), noted that the Palace of Ibrahim Pasa (housing the Turkish & Islamic Arts Museum) was still under renovation and then took a Big Bus Tour round town to see what we’d missed. 

Afternoon crowds gather to see Hagia Sophia

After our short Istanbul stop-over we jetted back to Marmaris to the lovely Windjammer.  Of course, she’d been moved in our absence and the key was missing; not the best thing late at night!  But it all worked out in the end, and here we are at Yat Marine even closer to the field of BIG hot water boats sprouting a growing collection of bunny ears (those SAT & TV domes that look like Mickey Mouse caps). 

Inside Hagia Sophia at the balcony where the Empress
would observe formalities

We’re working at setting WJ3 up slowly, partly due to a dose of the flu (yes, both of us!) and having a little bit of work done professionally to tart her up for the coming season.  Our splash is scheduled for the 2^nd June and only yesterday it was blowing 37km per hour over Paros (in the Cyclades, mid Aegean Sea).  Yep, another bumpy ride coming up; we wondered if sitting on the hard all season in Marmaris wouldn't be so bad after all…

The Cap'n pretends he's not being watched...
Breakfast at the Ambassador Hotel in Istanbul

(For anyone interested, the WJ3 Map & Tracker is updated now and will be more current than the blog for our whereabouts.  And photos to come - we're back to internet access basics again!)

Walking in History

Gallipoli, Turkey

Night view of the Memorial at Eceabat

Our RSL Tour (a local company & no relation to the RSL in Australia), allowed us a half day at Troy and a very full day at Gallipoli.  A smart move indeed.  Having overnighted at Eceabat, our morning tour took in the south peninsular.  We stopped at a number of cemeteries and memorials, mostly French, British and Turkish before stopping at a new information centre that dramatically explained the events of the time – with 3D glasses and moving platforms too. 

The Gallipoli campaign lasted 9 months and inflicted some half million casualties.  This small area is now home to 31 war cemeteries and monuments to the Turks, British, French, Aussies and Kiwis.

Main Turkish Monument

The area between battlefields is quite amazing, which covers some 35km over its entirety.  Hasan, our guide was no lightweight in battle facts and was able to explain the events of the period in quite some detail.  Hasan also told us that Aussies & Kiwis (surprisingly) make up the majority of foreign visitors to the Battlefields area.  And yes, we were stopped for a photo op at the request of some local visitors. 

Trenches on 2nd Ridge

After lunch, we picked up those who were taking in the Australian & Kiwi Battlefields (after their 6 hour bus trip down...) and launched into the north end tour. 

Being a Saturday, the place was crowded with tourists, many locals, wanting to understand their own history and pay homage to their hero, General Ataturk.  Hasan took us to the second ridge where we saw trenches of both sides (so close) amid the pines and cemeteries and memorials to ANZAC soldiers. 

Lone Pine Memorial

ANZAC Cove to North Beach walk

Our last stop was the impressive ANZAC Cove and North Beach where we were able to walk along the stretch of coast where so many lives were lost.  The peninsular, green and studded with bright red poppies, is quite eerily beautiful.  Its strategic location however, has made it the site of many a battle over the years of man’s quest for power, wealth and control.  With such a poignant recent history though, it was quite a day.

We all snored our way back to Istanbul (another 6 hours in a bus) arriving at our hotels after midnight – exhausted but reflective and very glad to have taken the time to visit Gelibolu.

Ataturk Memorial