Bergama, Turkey
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| Temple of Trajan, Acropolis in Pergamum |
There was
one more pile of rocks we felt inclined to explore in Turkey - Pergamum - and we’re
very glad we did. The site is neither as
restored nor visited as Ephesus but it is grand indeed. A lot has to do with its location - being
perched, breathtakingly, above a dusty agricultural town, surrounded by desolate
mountain ranges and lush agricultural valleys (well, lush for the Med!).
We started
with coffee at the Bergama otogar (bus station), joining a group of old men
chattering, drinking cay (chai or tea) and constantly smoking under a shady grapevine
arbour. I’m guessing that most visitors bus in on guided tours, for our
wanderings attracted rather more attention than we’re used to. We planned
to hire a taxi for a round of sites and, kindly, our proprietors phoned a first-class
one for us.
Revived by
coffee, we hit the ruins. So, with a guide
book tucked under our arms, we took our own walking tour of the Acropolis. Pergamum’s fortunes improved after Lysimachus
(one of Alexander’s generals) acquired it after 334BC. From then, a succession of rulers built the Anatolian
Kingdom into a powerful, prosperous, and cultural centre that stood as an
important gateway between Syria and Macedonia.
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| Death-defying night at the Theatre |
The Temple
of Trajan, the only surviving Roman structure, has been given a modest makeover
(German archaeologists with a fondness for complex architectural descriptors in
the signposting) that gives some insight into this city’s magnificence in its
heyday. Walking north, we found the Arsenal with advantageous views across the
plains and down to a large lake. After
scrambling over the ruins of Eumenes II’s Palace, we stopped in the shade of an
olive tree to imagine the fabulous Library that was to eventually contest that
of Egypt’s Alexandria; not without some international repercussion. The most impressive site however, must have
been the Theatre. Economically built into the side of an almost vertical cliff,
its elongated shape marks its architectural brilliance. It would not however, be the place to sit on blustery
days. I had visions of spectators
rolling down the side of the hill, rather like those unfortunate cows in the
Azores.
Finishing
with the Acropolis, we took a brief tour of the huge Red Basilica. Originally built and dedicated to Egyptian
gods in 2nd c AD, it was declared by Christians as a Devil’s throne.
Currently undergoing a massive renovation, we were only able to access a small circular
side building that houses a few interesting pieces of sculpture. Behind though,
shedloads of yet more discoveries were stored, awaiting perhaps, a generous and
interested benefactor.
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| Egyptian influence is rather apparent at the Red Basilica |
In a lower valley,
sit the ruins of the Asclepion, an ancient treatment centre where patients undertook therapies including mud baths, bathing
in sacred waters, herbal remedies and ointments. Not pregnant women or the dying though!. Perhaps it was bad for their health. Or indeed hindered success rate statistics & subsequently government grants? Galen (AD 131-210) was the most eminent
physician to practise and teach here.
His studies formed a strong foundation for the practice and principles of
medicine as we know it today.
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| Another Fountain of Youth - yeah, yeah! |
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| View of the lofty Pergamum Acropolis from the Asclepion |
On the way
out of the Asclepion, our Cap’n noticed a garage of M60 tanks. After brief greetings (through a strongly
wired fence) with a crew taking a cigarette break, there was pause for a reflective
moment. Did I notice some bleary eyes?
Back
at the otogar, we sipped cay, again to the curiosity of all, until our considerate
bus driver sent a young man to fetch us.
The experience of the day however transpired at the Ayvalik otogar when
we changed buses for the marina. The Cap’n
took the chance for a quick loo break, letting the driver know. Ah, but it was the wrong driver… A replacement driver jumped aboard and gunned the engine
ready for the trip to town. Previously
silent passengers suddenly erupted in general chat, which was silenced after a young
man was sent to find the errant foreigner. There is something wonderfully rewarding in
the kindness of strangers – all without a word of English!
