Double Vision: World Heritage (Part 2)

Saranda

After another stop for coffee (to keep us awake after that generous lunch I suspect) we stopped at the Blue Eye spring to admire waters that both the Cap’n & George likened to the crystal clear waters of Mt Gambier (SA).  Fortunately, the reserve has been preserved in as much as it was used as a rest facility by Albania’s communist elite and so off-limits to the general public for many years.  Not so now – it’s busy in summer!  The spring itself is said to be very deep (45-50m) and we heard of divers who had swum into karst caves below it.  Had we more time and snorkelling gear, I think we’d have lost our two intrepid travellers downstream. 



The Cap'n was having difficulty focusing on us...

View out to the dam

 

Fran waving over the clear, turquoise waters

Last stop of the day was Butrint, yet another UNESCO World Heritage site (since 1995).  The ancient city of Butrint is the largest and best preserved archaeological site in Albania. 

Legend has it that settlement dates from ancient times by exiles from Troy.  It was named Buthrotum (wounded ox) after a sacrificial offering managed, against the odds, to swim to shore.  This mythology is further reflected in the cyclopean walls and celebrated “Lion Gate”. 

We started our hike round the extensive grounds covering:

 

 

Hellenistic ruins: the Asclepion, an ancient treatment centre (BC 4^th c), & Theatre (BC 3^rd c);

Roman ruins of a very prosperous city:  the Forum, roman baths, the triconch Palace;

The mosaic floor is kept safe from rising salt water by this covering of sand

 

 

Byzantine ecclesiastical ruins: the Baptistery with its amazing intact mosaic floor (now covered by sand to preserve it), the Great Basilica;

 

Norman ruins: fortified walls running down to the lagoon; and

 

Venetian ruins: Tower, Venetian castle (13^th c) built over on the town’s Acropolis.  The castle is now home to a museum of objects found on the site. (Butrint web site is a little cumbersome but interesting.)

 

Butrint's Lagoon at dusk

 

We drove home through Ksamili, another buzzing seaside resort town along the Albanian coast.  We were able to admire spectacular coastal views before arriving back at Saranda, in time for the evening “rush” hour – Saranda with its party lights on!   

Double Vision: World Heritage (Part 1)

Saranda

We knew little of Albania’s history and attractions, so together with George & Fran, we set off in the hands of very knowledgeable guide, Demir Kroi for a long but worthwhile day

Our first discovery was imposing Lekursi Castle (circa 1537) and bunker system that crown a hill above Saranda.  It is now a restaurant but with such amazing views over the Ionian Sea, Albanian coast and Greek Islands.  Demir pointed out across the Pass of Six, the (early Christian) Forty Saints Monastery after which Saranda is named.
 

Solid outer walls_Lekursi Castle (1537)

 

Interesting remnants of frescoes on the Castle walls

Bundled into the back of a large Mercedes, we settled in for the long drive to Gjirokastra.  Built into a hillside, it is the site of an imposing Ottoman settlement – a robust fortress (13^th c), distinctive tower houses built by wealthy landowners, narrow cobbled streets of the old town and a busy tourist bazaar.  Gjirokastra has been a UNESCO World Heritage town since 2004 and slowly, restorations are underway, particularly of some of the grand old mansions. 
 

A castle to be reckoned with

 

Little Italian tank built by Fiat

 

Brides having photos taken

 

Impressive, solid construction

One of these striking family homes was the birthplace of Communist Dictator, Enver Hoxha, that has been set up as an ethnographic museum.  Demir showed us though and explained how large families (30 or more) would have traditionally lived in various rooms.  Family members slept on mattresses rather like futons, which were put away during the day, giving rooms multiple functions.  The concept of a global village enclosed by a web of trade routes is certainly not new then.

Birthplace of Enver Hoxha, now a museum

Family dining room

Whilst there, we stopped to have a traditional Albanian meal.  Our table positively groaned under the weight of tasting plates filled with grilled meats, veggies, yoghurt, cheeses and salad.  Like most Med countries, lunch is a long and generous affair, meant for family time and relaxing in the heat of the day.  Dinner is never taken before 8pm - after the evening constitutional, of course!  We haven’t as yet managed to keep awake long enough to find out when people actually retire for the night but dance clubs, bars and discos are most certainly pumping out music until the wee hours.

Side-Stepping into Albania

Saranda, Albania

Finally – anchors aweigh and dock lines released!  Despite our destination only being 14nm from Corfu, it seemed tough to move on from a most seductive Greece.  But, here we are at last, dockside in Saranda, Albania’s “Riviera”, with everyone else – ferries, mini cruise ships, fishing boats and all sorts of (mostly Italian) pleasure craft.  Oddly enough, our dock lines were taken by Aussies (Zarafet) who had not long arrived. 

Saranda sits tucked in the base of a bay at the foot of high, parched mountains.  The whole country it seems is like this.  However scattered through are vast fertile valleys with everlasting freshwater springs.  Oil and water are Albania’s natural commodities.



Saranda viewed from Lekursi Castle

Like most nations in the Med, Albania has an early history beset by strife and turbulence.  It fared no better during the World Wars, eventually finding itself a closed country under firm Communist rule.  Since 1991, it has edged towards democratic governance and more recently, applied for EU membership.  Whilst there is limited infrastructure for visiting yachts (and assurances that off-shore minefields really are cleared), it seems impossible to consider where Greece ends and Albania begins.  In Saranda, beaches are busy, restaurants full and lots of people are enjoying their summer holidays.  As we all do.

(Why are we here?  Well, aside from exploring countries quite different to those in our own (Asia Pacific) region, Albania is not yet EU.  This means we have stopped the dreaded Schengen (for us) and EU VAT (WJ3) clocks; albeit for a few days/weeks without the madness of having to return to Turkey, make for Egypt, Tunisia or Morocco.  One of the requirements for entry into Albania is that we must appoint an agent.  For a fee, they undertake the laborious task of completing paperwork, having it stamped off by various departments and translating officialdom for us.  Agim Zholi came highly recommended and he became our friendly source of all things Sarande.  As you can see, life is not without its challenges, even in the marvellous Med!) 

 

From: Corfu, Greece Lat/Long: 39:36.873N 19:55.603E Date/Time: 17/08/14: 1155
To: Sarande, Albania Lat/Long: 39:52.263N 20:00.203E Date/Time: 20/08/14: 1300
Time Taken: 21nm (3.5hrs) Distance (this year): 980.5nm (166.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 14313.5nm   Weather: Calm; good protection in Saranda at this time of year at the town commercial dock
Fastest Speed: Averaging 6-6.5kts – under the iron horse again…

Lekursi Castle from our dock

Summer Fun

Corfu

Having made a dash through the Ionians, largely due to necessary repairs, and having discovered how truly busy this waterway is, we thought we’d disappear northwards and return – after August – to spend time floating amongst lush green islands and sheltered anchorages.  Plans were made to be modified.  So it was we found ourselves heading south to Kefallonia, more precisely Fiskardho, via the wild, west coast of Lefkas.  (Going this way was visually captivating – huge, sheer white cliffs dropped into the most amazing turquoise seas we’ve seen to date.  But devastating to the stomach!  The swell was a tad challenging, so we had the waters mostly to ourselves.  Hmmmm!)

Family had been heading south from Croatia and we hoped to catch up.  Somehow we passed them in the Lefkas Canal area as they headed south for a week off their boat (a pristine aircraft carrier) in a wonderful villa in Fiskardho with friends.  We tracked them down.

Sailboat Baruch with the Watson family & friends aboard
(& his Cap'nship making a thorough inspection) 

All having lots of fun

 

Having been treated like visiting royalty, we decided to make for some of the anchorages we’d previously planned to visit.  Meganissi has some lovely deep bays on its north coast and we’d imagined exploring them.  It seems most of Italy had the same idea.  We finally found an anchorage but couldn’t get the anchor to set through thick weed.  Equally thick (but solar) were the Germans who abused the Cap’n for anchoring too close.  We wondered what their definition of “close” was given this was the Ionians and August… 

Happily, although well after sundowner hour, we found Vlycho (Lefkas) an almost landlocked bay with lots of room, despite a seeming cast of thousands at anchor.  Here we stayed a couple of very pleasant nights – the Cap’n waving merrily as the histrionic Germans joined us.  They kept moving well passed us though….

Back to Preveza (where Bertha Rocna had unsuccessfully made an escape bid) to pick up spares and on to Paxos.  We’d chosen a small bay, a little south of Gaios (the main town we’d planned to dinghy to) and were pleased to be boat number three.  All to ourselves.  Well, not for long.  They steadily streamed in.  Mogonissi is not large and yet they still sandwiched themselves in – some med moored and plenty at anchor.  We postponed our dinghy ride and slept a restless night in sardine bay. 

Lakka was no better so we hot-footed it across to Corfu, nervous of what we might find.  Here we sit in a large, open anchorage at the foot of a grand old fort surrounded by the big boys (hot water boats).  We’ve had a day in town shopping (the Cap’n purchasing some courtesy flags..I guess that’s shopping) and walking narrow Venetian streets.  We dinghied the fort moat (thinking of you & Ceuta, BCK) and watched in horror as a speeding hot water boat (worth millions) nearly demolished itself on the old fort walls.  We walked into an exhibition of Indian artefacts in the Palace of SS Michael & George – with a ravishing photo of the Taj Mahal.  India & Nepal just seem to keep following us around….  Then, finished the day with a cold beer overlooking probably the Med’s only cricket pitch!

 

(PS We’re not sure what our next destinations will offer in terms of wi-fi (here it’s said wee-fee) so bear (maybe some brown bears?) with us.)

A very close call...& only saved by a tiny bit of beach

From: Preveza, Greece Lat/Long: 38:57.173N 20:45.844E Date/Time: 5/08/14: 1130
To: Corfu, Greece Lat/Long: 39:36.873N 19:55.603E Date/Time: 11/08/14: 1615
Time Taken: 147.5nm (23.5hrs) Distance (this year): 959.5nm (163hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 14292.5nm   Weather: Better winds in the Ionians (NW & evening) although the afternoon heat can oppressive at times
Fastest Speed: Averaging 6-6.5kts – more sailing here than elsewhere or are we just imagining it?

Set in Sea Water - Changing Plans

Corfu

A view over Garitsas Bay, Corfu

Having finally arrived at Checkpoint Corfu, our last in Greece, we’ve made a few cursory glances at our so far unhurried schedule and decided…

Firstly we will haul out in Preveza at the end of September. This boatyard looks really good, the staff very friendly and its grounds are regularly patrolled by 3 donkeys (with lots of personality) and 2 goats…  Just our kind of place!  As luck would have it, we arrived at the boatyard in time to see a Hunter 460 being hauled out (this yard has a hydraulic trailer not a travel lift) so if we had doubts before, they’ve vanished. 

The other issue then is time; somehow we’ve dallied too long in Greece and now with only 5 weeks before haul out, there isn’t time to properly visit Croatia or Venice and get back to Greece.  Next year then, and good timing too as we’ll avoid the summer crowds and heat. (We’re also leaving some of our Greece “side-trips” for next year too as we’ll probably fly into Athens.)

Darling, darling!  I must say, our float plan's not keeping to schedule.

So now, we are heading off to Albania and Montenegro.  Albania is the mainland we can see from Corfu - about 15 miles away. Further north is Montenegro.  Not a huge trip, just lots more dawdling that we seem to be getting very good at. 

We hate to disappoint anyone who had thoughts of joining us in Croatia.  The Ionians are lovely however, so you could always come to Preveza and do a little boat cleaning and maintenance for a few weeks.  No?  Not tempted?  Oh well…   

Ratus Sparticus

Preveza


Here we are, tied to the Aktio dock, unsuspecting....

It was the middle of a dark night.  The Cap’n had gotten up to check on mooring lines.  He thought he’d heard the pitter-patter of little feet scurrying about the dock.  Now, there staring at him, nose to nose, thought the OPEN galley hatch (onboard even!) was Ratus Sparticus!

Having been engrossed in stories of the Battle of Thermopylae*, our Captain’s first thought was to reach for an implement of destruction (probably my best kitchen knife – eeeuuuw!).  However, he resorted to a sudden ninja cut & thrust punch.  Ratus learned to fly, though sadly not to swim, then made a hasty retreat from the dock into his boatyard hideaway. 

You can’t say we hadn’t been warned.  Rats are known to run up mooring lines and our fabric clad fenders make perfect treads.  Along with wafting remnants of dinner, it was an invitation clearly too good to miss.  (Although the Cap’n reckons they should have gone for the French boat behind us, being better cooks & all!)

Still, we are now replete with various instruments of defence and mooring lines glistening with an array of plastic bottles. GS wants to go back to Kusadasi for the black cat that tried to adopt us.  It was a close call, hopefully not to be repeated…

 

(* 480BC Spartans hold off Xerxes’ Army (Persians) against all odds.)

Note: large quantities of useful plastic bottles as "rat fender-offerers"

Not a line was spared the "treatment"

Bunkers Galore

Preveza

Korinthos waterfront park: Horse with Birds statue

 

Ancient Corinth (from out at sea)

We had left Korinthos, making for Itea, and another seemingly abandoned marina.  Tied to the wall, we could safely leave WJ3 and head for the hills.  You would think, would you not, that having been exposed so far to the best of Greek bureaucracy, we would learn*. 

Our Cap’n pedalled to the bus station to coordinate timings for our Delphi visit.   Next morning, bright and shiny at 7.45, we presented ourselves.  “It’s Saturday,” she said.  “And?” said our Cap’n, starting to get a little terse.  The bus left at 7:15. Of course it had, this is Greece!  Back to WJ3 then for a three hour wait for the next bus….  Luckily there were seats available.

Marina at Itea_WJ3 over on far dock

Our woes did not stop there.  After Delphi, we stopped for dinner at an Itea quay-side restaurant.  Let me tell you, it was the worst food we’ve had in seven years.  Just to add insult to injury, it came with a hefty €50 bill!   Next morning, we left Itea very early. Only to blow out the main sail.  (More detail on the Cap’n H460 site, soon-ish, he’s busy organising repairs and fixing things!).

Our next little anchorage in Trizonia was very charming – a little Dangar in the Korinthos Gulf.  We were understandably a little taverna shy so didn’t bother with tying up at the dock (I think another free one?).  Here we rested two days, hiding from strong westerlies, until we pushed on for a planned stop at Messolongi.  Conditions had been calm, and we fair slid under the Rion-Andirion Bridge, the longest suspension bridge in the world and quite a dramatic sight. 

Trizonia with steep hills on the mainland behind

Reading more "repair manuals"_relaxing on Trizonia

Rion-Andirion Bridge with car ferry (cheaper than using the bridge apparently)

Getting that ICW feeling all over again!

Despite the afternoon breeze building, we decided, being something of old hands at bashing INTO it, we’d continue on to Ithaca.  Once there, we found a lovely little nook, festooned with yellow buoys for swimmers, but with enough room for us.  Katabatic winds found us, as did the thousands of other boaties in the Ionian – it’s Pitt Street on the water here.  Despite limited space, two other boats crept in front of us, crossing our anchor chain.  We had been warned about August and the Ionian.  We left in the morning with a dramatic flourish (No! Was that anchor woman being yelled at??) and glint of perspiration on our neighbour’s brow. 

Lefkas Canal & the race is on...

The day was brilliantly mild, with yachts criss-crossing picturesque waterways, so rather than stop at Lefkas, we kept going through the canal and on to Preveza.  Aktio Marina is our 2014 haul-out yard of choice, so aside from making ourselves known, it seemed like the perfect opportunity to slow down for a few days and have the main sail & Bruce’s outboard seen to.  We’ve been invited dockside at Aktio until the repairs are made, the Cap’n has found an extensive chandlery, the washing’s been done, galley’s restocked, shore showers are hot and all’s well with the world.

(Aktio is historically noteworthy, having been the gathering place of Marc Anthony & Cleopatra’s combined fleets; their sights set firmly on Italy.  It was here (Actium) that Octavian firmly trounced them, his ultimate triumph was to eventually become Emperor Augustus.  Cleo went home to find herself a little viper.)

 *Just don’t ask about banks.

Preveza sunset and gathering place for ambitious Cleo & the lovely Marc

 

From: Korinthos, Greece Lat/Long: 37:56.493N 22:56.180E Date/Time: 25/07/14: 0845
To: Preveza, Greece Lat/Long: 38:57.173N 20:45.844E Date/Time: 30/07/14: 1630
Time Taken: 166nm (28.5hrs) Distance (this year): 812nm (139.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 14145nm   Weather: Good run although not much sailing time (again!)
Fastest Speed: Averaging 6-6.5kts – amazing what a little engine juice does 

Soothsayers & Silly Old Goats

Delphi

Move on we did and found ourselves in Itea, a base from which to head to the hills again, this time in search of fortune tellers to the ancients.  We were still in awe of Didyma (Turkey) and wondered how this would compare.

View over Sacred Precinct above Theatre 

If nothing else, this location for an oracle just had to be perfect.  Hollywood couldn’t have found a better stage setting – it just breathes Indiana Jones.  Rumour has it that goats were the first to discover the effects of the site’s “vapours” though I expect they may not have appreciated their prophetic nature.  Particularly when pilgrims would sacrifice offerings (including goats) before having their fortunes told.  Seriously, oracles had been hard at work on this site telling fortunes of powerful &/or rich men for thousands of years.  Pillaging of its treasures started with the Romans but the Sibyl’s demise was certainly Christianity (AD 4th c).     

Temple of Apollo

We decided to concentrate on the Sacred Precinct which was well signposted and having been excavated in earnest by the French, meant translations in Greek, French AND English.  Having said that, it is steep and in the heat of the day, we made for the top.  Here in a surprisingly beautiful, pine fringed area was a near perfect stadium (seating 7000 –the site was incredibly popular despite its isolated location).  

Downhill is a small theatre, which together with the stadium was used for events of the Pythian Festival, connected with Dionysus (wine, arts & ecstasy!).  Little wonder that Lord Byron found himself swimming in the Castalian Spring before presenting himself at the Temple of Apollo.  It all sounds very bohemian.

Itea on the coast, looking down from Delphi Village

In earlier times, a pilgrimage to Delphi would entail highly ritualised activity.  Firstly there would be the journey; suffering to show sincerity?  Then there would be an offering – obviously appropriate to rank and favour (King Midas is known to have visited the oracle).  Questions would be presented to her, inscribed on lead tablets.  From a tripod over the vaporous chasm, the priestess would chant prophesies.  Attendant priests would translate this apparent gibberish into verse.  You had your guidance; use it wisely.  And many did.

The rock from which the ancient sibyl told "fortunes"

Obviously the sybil must have got the answers right (most of the time?).  Delphi, considered to be the centre of the earth, grew to be a very wealthy & powerful entity.  We continued on our walk downhill to the Museum via the ruins of once grand memorials, treasuries, monuments to successful battles, administrative offices, sanctuaries and columns.  The Museum now holds what was left from one of the richest collections of art and treasure in antiquity.  Even in its reduced state you can begin to imagine how impressive Delphi must once have been.

Trojan War Frieze

The famous Charioteer 5th c

Stunning art works on pottery

Amazing gold jewellery

 

Independence

Nafplio

A tidy town square - Nafplio & Akronafplia above it

 

We were somewhat “ruined-out”, so spent our last ½ day toffing it up with the Nafplio in-crowd.  Although Nafplio has a history as long as your arm, with twin forts crowning the city (Palamidhi & Akronafplia), its heyday, though brief, is more thoroughly modern.  Nafplio was chosen as the capital of an independent Greece (1829 to 1834).  Sadly, the first president was assassinated here (by not-so-neighbourly Maniots in 1831) and Bavarian Prince Otto (the first King of Greece) made the town his royal residence for at least a few years before moving on to Athens. 

Third Fort, Bourtzi (1473) of Venetian origin

 

Some of the more conservative Worry Beads on show

Those heady days are long gone; however old Nafplio retains a sense of the grand old lady with narrow cobbled streets, shady plazas and mix of Venetian, Greek & Turkish-style buildings, some quite well preserved.  Buzzing with tourists (Athenians mostly), trendy shops seem to be doing a grand trade.  Worry beads are the jewellery de rigeur, and several “bead” shops were worthy of more than a casual glance, though perhaps not quite within cruising budget range!  

 

Mycenaean Suit of Armour

The Archaeological Museum housed in a lovely Venetian mansion, was well worth our time, given the sites we had visited across the Peloponnese.  Highlights were a Mycenaean suit of armour (1400 BC) with leather helmet decorated with boar tusks (45 boars had to give up their lives for just one helmet) and terracotta face masks, used in Dionysus festivals, found in Tiryns. 

Nafplio is the kind of place you could happily wander all day, but time wasn’t on our side.  GS quickly slipped into an impressive Peloponnesian Folklore Foundation Museum with a fairly extensive collection of traditional costumes, embroideries and household items.  Sadly, Greece has a turbulent history and many family textile heirlooms were sold off in hard times. 

The Cap’n chose to visit the War Museum, dedicated, in part, to memorabilia from the War of Independence.  Lord Byron made quite the name for himself in support of Greece’s struggle for liberation from the Ottoman regime, although he organised his efforts (and spent his wealth) from Messolongi, a western centre of resistance. 

Then it was back to Korinthos, WJ3 & her fishing boat buddies, and time to make plans to move on again.  Somehow, the Panda survived……