Double Vision: World Heritage (Part 1)

Sarandë, Albania

We knew little of Albania’s history and attractions, so together with George & Fran, we set off in the hands of very knowledgeable guide, Demir Kroi for a long but worthwhile day, exploring Saranda.

 

Our first discovery was imposing Lekuresi Castle (circa 1537) and bunker system that crowns a hill above Sarandë.  It is now a restaurant with amazing views over the Ionian Sea, Albanian coast and Greek Islands.  Demir pointed out across the Pass of Six, the (early Christian) Forty Saints Monastery, after which Saranda is named.

Solid outer walls_Lekuresi Castle (1537)

 

Interesting remnants of frescoes on Lekursi Castle walls

Bundled into the back of a large Mercedes, we settled in for the long drive to Gjirokastra.  Built into a hillside, it is the site of an imposing Ottoman settlement – a robust fortress (13^th c), distinctive tower houses built by wealthy landowners, narrow cobbled streets of the old town and a busy tourist bazaar.  Gjirokastra has been a UNESCO World Heritage town since 2004 and slowly, restorations are underway, particularly of some of the grand old mansions. 

A castle to be reckoned with

Little Italian tank built by Fiat

Brides having photos taken

One of these striking family homes was the birthplace of Communist Dictator, Enver Hoxha, that has been set up as an ethnographic museum.  Demir showed us though and explained how large families (30 or more) would have traditionally lived in various rooms.  Family members slept on mattresses rather like futons, which were put away during the day, giving rooms multiple functions.  The concept of a global village enclosed by a web of trade routes is certainly not new then.

Birthplace of Enver Hoxha, now a museum

Family dining room

Whilst there, we stopped to have a traditional Albanian meal.  Our table positively groaned under the weight of tasting plates filled with grilled meats, veggies, yoghurt, cheeses and salad.  Like most Med countries, lunch is a long and generous affair, meant for family time and relaxing in the heat of the day.  Dinner is never taken before 8pm - after the evening constitutional, of course!  We haven’t as yet managed to keep awake long enough to find out when people actually retire for the night but dance clubs, bars and discos are most certainly pumping out music until the wee hours.