Sarandë, Albania
We knew
little of Albania’s history and attractions, so together with George &
Fran, we set off in the hands of very knowledgeable guide, Demir Kroi for a long but worthwhile day, exploring Saranda.
Our first
discovery was imposing Lekuresi Castle (circa 1537) and bunker system that crowns a hill above Sarandë. It is now a
restaurant with amazing views over the Ionian Sea, Albanian coast and
Greek Islands. Demir pointed out across
the Pass of Six, the (early Christian) Forty Saints Monastery, after which
Saranda is named.
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Solid outer walls_Lekuresi Castle (1537) |
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Interesting remnants of frescoes on Lekursi Castle walls |
Bundled into
the back of a large Mercedes, we settled in for the long drive to Gjirokastra. Built into a hillside, it is the site of an
imposing Ottoman settlement – a robust fortress (13th c), distinctive
tower houses built by wealthy landowners, narrow cobbled streets of the old
town and a busy tourist bazaar. Gjirokastra
has been a UNESCO World Heritage town since 2004 and slowly, restorations are
underway, particularly of some of the grand old mansions.
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A castle to be reckoned with |
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Little Italian tank built by Fiat |
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Brides having photos taken |
One of these
striking family homes was the birthplace of Communist Dictator, Enver Hoxha, that
has been set up as an ethnographic museum.
Demir showed us though and explained how large families (30 or more)
would have traditionally lived in various rooms. Family members slept on mattresses rather
like futons, which were put away during the day, giving rooms multiple
functions. The concept of a global
village enclosed by a web of trade routes is certainly not new then.
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Birthplace of Enver Hoxha, now a museum |
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Family dining room |
Whilst
there, we stopped to have a traditional Albanian meal. Our table positively groaned under the weight
of tasting plates filled with grilled meats, veggies, yoghurt, cheeses and
salad. Like most Med countries, lunch is
a long and generous affair, meant for family time and relaxing in the heat of
the day. Dinner is never taken before
8pm - after the evening constitutional, of course! We haven’t as yet managed to keep awake long
enough to find out when people actually retire for the night but dance clubs,
bars and discos are most certainly pumping out music until the wee hours.
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