Soothsayers & Silly Old Goats

Delphi

Move on we did and found ourselves in Itea, a base from which to head to the hills again, this time in search of fortune tellers to the ancients.  We were still in awe of Didyma (Turkey) and wondered how this would compare.

View over Sacred Precinct above Theatre 

If nothing else, this location for an oracle just had to be perfect.  Hollywood couldn’t have found a better stage setting – it just breathes Indiana Jones.  Rumour has it that goats were the first to discover the effects of the site’s “vapours” though I expect they may not have appreciated their prophetic nature.  Particularly when pilgrims would sacrifice offerings (including goats) before having their fortunes told.  Seriously, oracles had been hard at work on this site telling fortunes of powerful &/or rich men for thousands of years.  Pillaging of its treasures started with the Romans but the Sibyl’s demise was certainly Christianity (AD 4th c).     

Temple of Apollo

We decided to concentrate on the Sacred Precinct which was well signposted and having been excavated in earnest by the French, meant translations in Greek, French AND English.  Having said that, it is steep and in the heat of the day, we made for the top.  Here in a surprisingly beautiful, pine fringed area was a near perfect stadium (seating 7000 –the site was incredibly popular despite its isolated location).  

Downhill is a small theatre, which together with the stadium was used for events of the Pythian Festival, connected with Dionysus (wine, arts & ecstasy!).  Little wonder that Lord Byron found himself swimming in the Castalian Spring before presenting himself at the Temple of Apollo.  It all sounds very bohemian.

Itea on the coast, looking down from Delphi Village

In earlier times, a pilgrimage to Delphi would entail highly ritualised activity.  Firstly there would be the journey; suffering to show sincerity?  Then there would be an offering – obviously appropriate to rank and favour (King Midas is known to have visited the oracle).  Questions would be presented to her, inscribed on lead tablets.  From a tripod over the vaporous chasm, the priestess would chant prophesies.  Attendant priests would translate this apparent gibberish into verse.  You had your guidance; use it wisely.  And many did.

The rock from which the ancient sibyl told "fortunes"

Obviously the sybil must have got the answers right (most of the time?).  Delphi, considered to be the centre of the earth, grew to be a very wealthy & powerful entity.  We continued on our walk downhill to the Museum via the ruins of once grand memorials, treasuries, monuments to successful battles, administrative offices, sanctuaries and columns.  The Museum now holds what was left from one of the richest collections of art and treasure in antiquity.  Even in its reduced state you can begin to imagine how impressive Delphi must once have been.

Trojan War Frieze

The famous Charioteer 5th c

Stunning art works on pottery

Amazing gold jewellery