Bunkers Galore

Preveza, Greece

Our journey from Korinthos (Corinth) continues:

 

Ancient Korinthos (from out at sea)

We had left Korinthos, making for Itea, and another seemingly abandoned marina.  Tied to the wall, we could safely leave WJ3 and head for the hills.  You would think, would you not, that having been exposed so far to the best of Greek bureaucracy, we would learn. Just don’t ever ask about banks...

Our Cap’n pedalled to the bus station to coordinate timings for our Delphi visit.   Next morning, bright and shiny at 7.45, we presented ourselves.  “It’s Saturday,” she said.  “And?” said our Cap’n, starting to get a little terse.  The bus left at 7:15. Of course it had, this is Greece!  Back to WJ3 then for a three hour wait for the next bus….  Luckily there were seats available.

Marina at Itea_WJ3 over on far dock

Our woes did not stop there.  After Delphi, we stopped for dinner at an Itea quay-side restaurant.  Let me tell you, it was the worst food we’ve had in seven years.  Just to add insult to injury, it came with a hefty €50 bill!   Next morning, we left Itea very early. Only to blow out the main sail.  (More detail on the Cap’n H460 site, soon-ish, he’s busy organising repairs and fixing things!).

Our next little anchorage in Trizonia was very charming – a little Dangar in the Korinthos Gulf.  We were understandably a little taverna shy so didn’t bother with tying up at the dock (I think another free one?).  Here we rested two days, hiding from strong westerlies, until we pushed on for a planned stop at Messolongi.  Conditions had been calm, and we fair slid under the Rion-Andirion Bridge, the longest suspension bridge in the world and quite a dramatic sight. 

Trizonia with steep hills on the mainland behind

Reading more "repair manuals"_relaxing on Trizonia

Rion-Andirion Bridge with car ferry
(cheaper than using the bridge apparently)

Getting that ICW feeling all over again!

Despite the afternoon breeze building, we decided, being something of old hands at bashing INTO it, we’d continue on to Ithaca, home of Ulysses.  Once there, we found a lovely little nook, festooned with yellow buoys for swimmers, but with enough room for us.  Katabatic winds found us, as did the thousands of other boaties in the Ionian – it’s Pitt Street on the water here.  Despite limited space, two other boats crept in front of us, crossing our anchor chain.  We had been warned about August and the Ionian.  We left in the morning with a dramatic flourish (No! Was that anchor woman being yelled at??) and glint of perspiration on our neighbour’s brow. 

Lefkas Canal & the race is on...

The day was brilliantly mild, with yachts criss-crossing picturesque waterways, so rather than stop at Lefkas, we kept going through the canal and on to Preveza.  Aktio Marina is our 2014 haul-out yard of choice, so aside from making ourselves known, it seemed like the perfect opportunity to slow down for a few days and have the main sail & Bruce’s outboard seen to.  We’ve been invited dockside at Aktio until the repairs are made, the Cap’n has found an extensive chandlery, the washing’s been done, galley’s restocked, shore showers are hot and all’s well with the world.

Aktio is historically noteworthy, having been the gathering place of Marc Anthony & Cleopatra’s combined fleets; their sights set firmly on Italy.  It was here (Actium) that Octavian firmly trounced them, his ultimate triumph was to eventually become Emperor Augustus.  Cleo went home to find herself a little viper.

Preveza sunset and gathering place for ambitious Cleo & the lovely Marc

From: Korinthos, Greece Lat/Long: 37:56.493N 22:56.180E Date/Time: 25/07/14: 0845

To: Preveza, Greece Lat/Long: 38:57.173N 20:45.844E Date/Time: 30/07/14: 1630
Time Taken: 166nm (28.5hrs) Distance (this year): 812nm (139.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 14145nm   Weather: Good run although not much sailing time (again!)
Fastest Speed: Averaging 6-6.5kts – amazing what a little engine juice does 

Soothsayers & Silly Old Goats

Delphi, Greece

Move on we did and found ourselves in Itea, a base from which to head to the hills again, this time in search of fortune tellers to the ancients.  We were still in awe of Didyma (Turkey) and wondered how this would compare.

View over Sacred Precinct above Theatre 

If nothing else, this location for an oracle just had to be perfect.  Hollywood couldn’t have found a better stage setting – it just breathes Indiana Jones.  Rumour has it that goats were the first to discover the effects of the site’s “vapours” though I expect they may not have appreciated their prophetic nature.  Particularly when pilgrims would sacrifice offerings (including goats) before having their fortunes told.  Seriously, oracles had been hard at work on this site telling fortunes of powerful &/or rich men for thousands of years.  Pillaging of its treasures started with the Romans but the Sibyl’s demise was certainly Christianity (AD 4th c).     

Temple of Apollo

We decided to concentrate on the Sacred Precinct which was well signposted and having been excavated in earnest by the French, meant translations in Greek, French AND English.  Having said that, it is steep and in the heat of the day, we made for the top.  Here in a surprisingly beautiful, pine fringed area was a near perfect stadium (seating 7000 –the site was incredibly popular despite its isolated location).  

Downhill is a small theatre, which together with the stadium was used for events of the Pythian Festival, connected with Dionysus (wine, arts & ecstasy!).  Little wonder that Lord Byron found himself swimming in the Castalian Spring before presenting himself at the Temple of Apollo.  It all sounds very bohemian.

Itea on the coast, looking down from Delphi Village

In earlier times, a pilgrimage to Delphi would entail highly ritualised activity.  Firstly there would be the journey; suffering to show sincerity?  Then there would be an offering – obviously appropriate to rank and favour (King Midas is known to have visited the oracle).  Questions would be presented to her, inscribed on lead tablets.  From a tripod over the vaporous chasm, the priestess would chant prophesies.  Attendant priests would translate this apparent gibberish into verse.  You had your guidance; use it wisely.  And many did.

The rock from which the ancient sibyl told "fortunes"

Obviously the sybil must have got the answers right (most of the time?).  Delphi, considered to be the centre of the earth, grew to be a very wealthy & powerful entity.  We continued on our walk downhill to the Museum via the ruins of once grand memorials, treasuries, monuments to successful battles, administrative offices, sanctuaries and columns.  The Museum now holds what was left from one of the richest collections of art and treasure in antiquity.  Even in its reduced state you can begin to imagine how impressive Delphi must once have been.

Trojan War Frieze

The famous Charioteer 5th c

Stunning art works on pottery

Amazing gold jewellery