End of Season 13

A red sky at night. A sailor's delight (Scarlet Ibis, Caroni Swamp)

After a rest onboard recovering under the aircon, it was time to set about final chores.  Our going home date was nearly upon us, and we all were looking forward to getting back to Aus.  It has been a long 7 months and a very long way from our February start in Deltaville.  Perhaps our biggest issues were lack of internet and mobile phone connectivity.  Aside from Miss WJ3 expecting regular attention from our trusty Cap'n. 

We really like Trinidad. It has character, is self-reliant and industrious. Undoubtedly there are safety and security issues (check SmartTraveller) but on the whole, people are friendly and obliging.  We found YSATT and Trinidad-Cruisers websites very helpful.   Jesse James, Members Only Maxi Taxis, offers regular shopping runs as well as organised tours of the island from our boatyard.  He is also an Ocean Cruising Club (award winning) Host and a designated Agent, offering assistance with clearance preparation.  We should have used his services on entry.  Trinidad now requires Visa entry for Australian citizens.  On presenting to Immigration, we were admonished for not having arranged one beforehand, then thankfully, a costly, limited stay visa arranged on-the-spot.  We were warned not to overstay.  On departure, GS was the subject of two security checks in the hour before boarding.  She blames her backpack, always stuffed too full of computer & boat electronics.

Now that we are home, a quick fact check on SmartTraveller reveals that T&T does not have an office in Australia.  You are thoughtfully advised to travel to the nearest office - in China!  However, not all is lost.  We are officially advised: “You don't need a visa if your visit is for tourism for less than 90 days. However, you'll need to pay a visa waiver fee to Immigration Services when you arrive.”  Let’s see how that goes!  I suspect déjà vu.  So, without further ado, it's time to present our end of season tally:

End of Season 13: Our figures for 2023 came in as follows:

From: Deltaville, Virginia USA Lat/Long: 37:33.116N 76:19.817W Date/Time: 16/02/23: 0930

To: Chaguaramas, Trinidad Lat/Long: 10:40.993N 61:38.029W  Date/Time: 23/08/23: 0915

Time Taken: (this year): 512.5 hrs  Distance: (this year): 3171nm

Distance Total: (since 2008): 28,194nm  

Weather: From skating on ice along the ICW to dodging seasonal depressions in the Caribbean, we had it all again this year.  Really had to keep our eyes on the weather, although predictions often came as forecast.  We used our new Iridium Go. Particularly helpful as we didn’t always have internet or even a phone.  Just in case you think we’ve been moaning about the weather just a wee bit too much, I shall leave you with Noonsite observations for Caribbean weather (3 Mar 2023): “unsettled weather in the Caribbean; unusual, relentless winds and squalls making it challenging to move”. Yep. That about covers it!

Fastest Speed:  We moved with some haste despite challenging weather.  It was not the perfect Caribbean weather for guests, often limiting where we could go & what we could do.  But who could have predicted that – on a boat?  Needless to say, lots of boat gear gasped a last breath under the stress, so too much time was spent fixing stuff.  And guaranteed, always in challenging places! 

Farewell Dinner & Mr Lozza's Party

Brushing Up on (Boating) History

Our whirlwind tour of the island & La Brea Pitch Lake.

Mr Lozza was appointed WJ3 Tour Rep.  After Caroni Swamp, we had hopes of organising a tour to another twitchers’ favourite, the Asa Wright Nature Centre, home to over 250 bird species.  It was not to be, with day tours running at costs into the hundreds, well beyond our budget.  Instead, we bravely hired a car for a couple of days.  Perhaps it was really the lady who owned the car who was brave!

This Vidiani map is busy enough without highlighting our route; towns are well marked.

For our first day, with the Cap’n at the wheel, Canadian Kevin riding shotgun, and Mr Lozza, doing the nav taking us on a circuitous, clock-wise route, off we set to see the vistas of Trinidad.  Advice to anyone planning this road trip, road conditions (traffic & maintenance – well, lack of it) meant we took longer than expected and thus had fewer stops.  It was also low (tourist) season, so not much was open; we should have packed a picnic lunch!  Mind you, there were not many places to take a break along the route either.

Starting early from Chaguaramas in the north west, we hit the main Churchill Roosevelt Highway taking us through Port of Spain and out to follow the foothills of the dark & moody, rainforest clad Northern Range.  The Mount St. Benedict Monastery was clearly visible, and although tempting to drive up to it to see the views (and I understand they also do a fantastic afternoon tea), it was working up to be another hot day.  So, bless the aircon instead and we carried on until the highway ran out, diverted via Valencia, continued through Sangre Grande, then met the east coast at Manzanilla.  Here we stopped at the Nariva River estuary to take some photos of a long stretch of windswept (bless those trade winds too!) coastline. 

Nariva River estuary

From Manzanilla, we followed Cocos Bay down to Nariva Swamp National Park.  It is quite clear that the swamp is fighting back given the many collapsed houses and one very buckled road rather worse for wear.  A ranger/tour guide at Nariva Swamp offered to take us for a boat tour; unfortunately, we had to decline; time was against us.  After following the coast road to Mayaro, we turned west and inland to Rio Claro.  Here at last we found a computer shop with the parts our Cap’n & Mr L. needed to repair a magic box that sits under the chart table.  (Want to know more? Check out the H460 site – just don’t hurry.  It’s snail-mail paced posting!).  From Rio Claro, a winding road took us passed picturesque small farms, villages and wild & fruitful gardens, all scattered with colourful temples and mosques.  At Princes Town, we eventually reconnected with a network of converging new and old highways on the west coast, confidant we could make it back to Chaguaramas before dark (i.e., dinner time).  Time then to zoom off to La Brea with hopes of catching a tour of the Pitch Lake.

Walking across the Pitch Lake led by our Guide

When you arrive at the Lake, you can’t help but wonder what on earth made you want to see this rather flat expanse, looking for all the world like discarded bitumen covered in puddles.  (First priority though, ignore the views and take a quick stop at the Museum bathrooms, the first available during our day!)  We were then greeted warmly by friendly staff and after signing on, followed our guide, Francis, off to the lake.  As we progressed over the lake’s surface, the ground moved & squeaked beneath us.  We realised this was no place to be on your own…  

Pitch, bubbling just under the top crust

Our guide was entertaining and very informed, so an hour quickly slipped by.  Importantly, the 100 acre lake is the largest natural deposit of asphalt in the world, carefully mined to ensure its depths (250ft) are monitored and maintained.  Sir Walter Raleigh, advised of the lake’s existence by native Amerindians during his 1595 expedition, immediately recognised its value for sea-going vessels, successfully using the pitch to caulk his own timber ship.  Thankfully, Miss WJ3 is fiberglass and much easier to maintain.  Try Wiki if you are not able to visit the Pitch Lake in person and want to know more.  Just don’t mention “bitumen” because that is something different.  Don't say you were not warned, ok!  

Don't stand still for too long! 

Therapeutic waters too!

Hoping to avoid peak hour traffic, a group decision (beer before culsha group?) was made not to try and find the 85 ft tall statue of Hindu god Lord Hanuman and The Temple of Sea in Carapichaima.  Maybe next time then?  So, following the Southern Main Road, we managed a quick and tidy return back to Chaguaramas, completing our circumnavigation.  Just in time for Happy Hour. 

A Red for Everyone

Caroni Swamp mangroves

and a roosting island for gathering birds

Jesse James organises island outings and we were lucky to snag one going to the Caroni Swamp for a spot of bird watching.  We arrived after a late afternoon start at Nanan's Bird Sanctuary Tours, through a minefield of feral cats (generating much discussion!).  Here, punts were waiting to thread us into the swamp via a series of channels to witness a daily, yet extraordinary spectacle of an evening roosting of Scarlet Ibis, Trinidad & Tobago’s national bird.  This mangrove swamp itself is huge, an important wetland covering some 12,000 acres, just south of Port of Spain. 

We couldn't disturb the birds, so getting close was an issue.
 Having a big enough camera lens to get them in focus was also another!

The wetlands unique character was recognised early, in the 1930’s, by Winston Nanan, who petitioned to have it declared a bird sanctuary.  Experts have now documented over 100 bird species according to our knowledgeable guide, along with an amazing array of bugs, fish, snakes, butterflies, micro-bats, crabs, fish & rather artful vegetation.  Of course, it was all a backdrop for, initially, an excited gathering of flamingos, no less.  They seemed so “Alice”, particularly when some flew off, looking for all the world, mid-air, like escaping (Red Queen’s) croquet bats.  Then, and slowly, the main attraction began to arrive and settle.  Not without some prima-donna squabbling, but it is rather a long way from where they spend their days in Venezuela (11 miles at least - as the crow flies).  Their magnificent red feathering comes courtesy of a diet of crabs living in the swamp.  Trees, with branches drooping with more & more arrivals, seem to burst into flame.  Strangely, as dusk arrives, that bright red vanishes into mangrove greenery and a calm stillness descends.  It’s time to head back to Nanan’s and home.

Scarlet Ibis

I can’t finish without adding a culinary note…  Whilst we floated along the channels, Jesse expertly spotted (along with our Guides) wildlife for us to photograph or just watch.  And while we kept our eyes open for Ibis and other roosting birds, he whipped up a local treat – Pineapple Chow.  This spicy (not sweet) fruit concoction is a local favourite and worth adding to your list of BBQ staples!  Here is a copy of his Chow recipe on the net.  And to finish off an excellent day, we stopped at a road-side stall for delicious home-made ice-cream.  Flavours were all so very Caribbean but we went for the usual suspects - Rum Raisin, & Coconut. 

Have you been good today? 
Jesse (in blue), helping dish up local treats...there was quite a queue

Life in a Heat Dome

You will be pleased to know that GS’s computer is fixed at last (only a new battery & a new hard drive – insert sad face emoji!) and ready to roll on finalising our 2023 adventures.  So, life jackets on, harnesses clipped; here we go!

Doing the Daily Grind

You may well laugh!  Nature had found us out and centred a rather large heat bubble over our Chaguaramas location.  Yes, temperatures varying between 34-39C lasted for the whole time we resided “up on spindly legs”.  And no rain.  However, we managed to cope with the aid of a small Walmart air conditioner purchased by our trusty Cap’n back in 2022. 

From inside HQ WJ3, the planning operation began.  Our Cap’n sought out quotes to refurbish parts of the interior, revitalise various non-working boat bits and arrange bit of practical maintenance.  Otherwise, he maintained happy hour supplies, topped up WJ3’s fuel tanks and fetched our (almost) daily local-food dinners.  The stretch of fence at the front of the yard is known as “The Food Court” and is open at about 4.30am by breakfast/snack ladies until the lunch ladies arrive and hold the fort until 2.00pm or the food runs out.  Menus change daily and competition for lunch with workers is stiff.  The Cap’n (and his favourite fridge mouse) charmed the ladies, so we left him to visit daily and make his selections.  They always gave generous serves and it never tasted anything less than wonderful!

Meanwhile, GS took care of listening to the daily (Channel 68) radio “sked”, organised attendance at yard group gatherings and undertook the usual domestic activities, including giving WJ3 her end-of-season spruce up.  

Haven't you finished the outboard by now?

Mr Lozza, as a welcome third hand, was given many & various chores (think de-rusting & painting the anchor and all 330 feet of chain!) allowing him to decide for sure that he never wants to own a boat!  In all, our gal looked a treat when we left!

To Buy a Fat Hen

One of the joys of travelling is visiting fresh food markets and Trinidad’s Central Market is no exception.  What we really love about it is that you are treated, not as visitors, but rather as shopping locals.  The experience took us back to days in Malaysia, India and Nepal.  Everything really is just so fresh, sold off the back of a farmer’s truck or fisherman’s boat (figuratively speaking!)  We travelled in each week on a Saturday morning (7am early start) on an organised Jesse James run (1 hour at the market then 30 mins at a nearby supermarket to finish off – the beer, bread & cereal run.)  Anything we missed out on could be picked up at the excellent mini-mart at Power Boats.  Very handy indeed! 

Perhaps just a few baby crabs?

Boys Big Day Out: Golf

Deciding to be adventurous, the lads made an early start one day for Chaguaramas Golf Course to take in a round of 9 holes before the heat set in.  This course, the only one in Trinidad, is set back into forested hills behind our boatyard at the base of Edith Falls, a hiking trail that we may (or may not) take one day.  Aside from wildlife galore, noisy birds (parrots), this reserve is home to Red Howler Monkeys.  Both agreed it was a spectacular setting for a golf course.  And you all know who won…