A Red for Everyone

Deep in the Caroni Swamp mangroves

and a roosting island for gathering birds

Jesse James organises island outings and we were lucky to snag one going to the Caroni Swamp for a spot of bird watching.  We arrived after a late afternoon start at Nanan's Bird Sanctuary Tours, through a minefield of feral cats (generating much discussion!).  Here, punts were waiting to thread us into the swamp via a series of channels to witness a daily, yet extraordinary spectacle of an evening roosting of Scarlet Ibis, Trinidad & Tobago’s national bird.  This mangrove swamp itself is huge, an important wetland covering some 12,000 acres, just south of Port of Spain. 

We couldn't disturb the birds, so getting close was an issue.
 Having a big enough camera lens to get them in focus was also another!

The wetlands unique character was recognised early, in the 1930’s, by Winston Nanan, who petitioned to have it declared a bird sanctuary.  Experts have now documented over 100 bird species according to our knowledgeable guide, along with an amazing array of bugs, fish, snakes, butterflies, micro-bats, crabs, fish & rather artful vegetation.  Of course, it was all a backdrop for, initially, an excited gathering of flamingos, no less.  They seemed so “Alice”, particularly when some flew off, looking for all the world, mid-air, like escaping (Red Queen’s) croquet bats.  Then, and slowly, the main attraction began to arrive and settle.  Not without some prima-donna squabbling, but it is rather a long way from where they spend their days in Venezuela (11 miles at least - as the crow flies).  Their magnificent red feathering comes courtesy of a diet of crabs living in the swamp.  Trees, with branches drooping with more & more arrivals, seem to burst into flame.  Strangely, as dusk arrives, that bright red vanishes into mangrove greenery and a calm stillness descends.  It’s time to head back to Nanan’s and then home.

Scarlet Ibis

I can’t finish without adding a culinary note…  Whilst we floated along the channels, Jesse expertly spotted (along with our Guides) wildlife for us to photograph or just watch.  And while we kept our eyes open for Ibis and other roosting birds, he whipped up a local treat – Pineapple Chow.  This spicy (not sweet) fruit concoction is a local favourite and worth adding to your list of BBQ staples!  Here is a copy of his Chow recipe on the net.  And to finish off an excellent day, we stopped at a road-side stall for delicious home-made ice-cream.  Flavours were all so very Caribbean but we went for the usual suspects - Rum Raisin, & Coconut. 

Have you been good today? 
Jesse (in blue), helping dish up local treats...there was quite a queue