Back to the Bronze Age

Mycenae

Hiring a car was a great idea.  In Korinthos however, they are scarce beasts indeed.  Persevere we did, until managing at last to find one – a little Fiat Panda (with the aerodynamics of a brick and speed of a pedal car).  Still, we headed off into the wild Peloponnese hinterland pretending not to be awed by 130k/hr speed limits, or motorists doing 150, on the main highway.  Today’s ½ day tour would be of “ruins” including Mycenae, a Bronze age civilization dating 1550-1200BC; ancient Nemea, a sanctuary for Zeus and site for athletic games with a stadium seating 40,000 (6^th c BC); up into towering hills before rapidly dropping into the Arcadian Stymphalian Lake once infested with man-eating birds (so legend has it) and then finally, back down to Kiato for a drive along the coast road to Korinthos.

Mycenae's Lion Gates 

Mycenae is another feather in the cap of Heinrich Schliemann (who you’ll remember from Troy, of course).  Enthused by his rich findings on the basis of Homer’s epics, he uncovered the grave and fortress of Agamemnon in 1874. 

Tholos (beehive tomb) of Clytemnestra

Aside from wandering the citadel with its famous Lion Gates, we were able to visit immense tholos tombs, built like beehives to house the (important) dead.  In one of these, Schliemann confirmed Homer’s description of the city as “rich in gold”, uncovering the wealth of Agamemnon.   We spent time in the nearby museum which houses some of the most interesting finds from the site and reveals how sophisticated this civilization was.  Clay tablets inscribed with writing afford us insight into life within the complex and decorated dwellings depict hunting and battle scenes, religious activities and processions of court ladies.  Most engaging was decorated pottery, ornamental utensils and ornate jewellery made from precious stones and gold.    



Grave Circle A

 

The Mycenaeans built citadels with gigantic stone walls, described as “cyclopean” by the ancients.  It is easy to think of these huge fortified complexes in isolation; however Mycenae is just one of three “close” sites. Others include Tiryns, then a port city and Midea.  Much further away on the west coast is Nestor’s Palace (near Pylos) that stand as testimony to the spread of this early Greek warrior culture. Both Mycenae and Nestor’s Palace were mentioned in Homer’s poems.

 

Agamemnon's Burial Mask (copy)

Posing at the Postern Gate

 

In Perspective

Well, I can’t go on without listing a quick historical guide just to help fit all the Greek pieces of our itinerary together.  Greece has such a long and fascinating past, I’m sure one day we’ll regret not teaching at least a little classical history (and underpinnings of our language) to our children.   

These Civilizations (in brief) include:

500,000 BC: Prehistoric

Recent discoveries (1976) in a cave near Thessaloniki reveal evidence of the earliest known Neanderthal man-made fire, used to cook foods. 

6500BC: Neolithic

A new farming culture appears in the Stone Age.  Milos is especially important due to availability of obsidian.  Its discovery elsewhere indicates sea trade; building and handling of boats.

4000 BC: Cycladic

Farming, fishing and trading communities develop on the islands

2000-1450 BC: Minoan (Bronze Age)

Settlers from Turkey & Balkans brought with them skills in pottery and metallurgy.  The Empire based itself in Crete and Thira (Santorini).  Possibly the world’s largest volcanic eruption in 1450BC abruptly ends this civilisation.

1500-1100 BC Mycenaeans, Dorians & Phoenicians (Iron Age)

The Mycenaeans ruled from Mycenae until Dorians from the north invaded, bringing with them the Iron and a Dark Age.  Phoenicians from Sidon & Tyre (Lebanon) controlled sea routes.

800-27BC: Classic & Hellenistic Greek

This was the era of city states, much colonising and cultural advancement.  Greece’s main antagonist was Persia.  Athens was the most powerful city state.  During the 700’s legendary poet, Homer, narrated tales of the Trojan War, an aristocratic society and epic voyages of hero sailors.  In 600’s, Lykourgos established a highly militaristic society, the Spartans.  In 330BC Philip of Macedon conquered Greece.  Alexander the Great (Philip’s son) continued building a massive empire.  Greece was gradually coming under Roman domination.

27BC-AD330: Roman

Greece was part of the Roman Empire but was allowed to remain reasonably independent.  Christianity begins to merge with ancient rituals & beliefs.  125AD Emperor Hadrian undertakes the renovation of ancient monuments. 

330-1204: Byzantine

Greece is swept up into the rise of Christianity’s first Empire.  Tribes from the north invade causing some population movement.

1204-1550: Franks & Venetians

In 1204, the 4^th Crusade fixed the demise of Byzantium.  Venetians established castles & forts along Aegean trade routes.

1460-1830: Ottoman 

Turks seized Constantinople and gradually occupied Greece.  In the 17^th c Venice regained some of its strongholds thus allowing Greece to be included in English travellers venerated “Grand Tour”.

1822-1830: The War of Independence

The massacre in Chios saw the start of uprising against Turkish occupation.  Lord Byron offered his name & resources to the cause of an independent Greece.  The Turkish Fleet was decimated at the Battle of Navarino (Pylos).

(The above times are not exclusive as we’ve discovered.)  Modern history also makes interesting reading.  Thus ends today’s lecture.

Rack & Pinion Interlude

Dhiakofto

From another concrete bunker, this time in the midst of downtown Korinthos, plans were afoot for a little air-conditioned car travel.   But first, we thought we’d try our luck on a train trip; a day to explore the Kalavryta rack & pinion railway.  How hard could it be? 

Don't actually think there's a train due today....  Korinthos

Firstly, don’t use a 2006 travel guide (doh!).  The Korinthos train station was deserted, long mothballed.  What to do then?  Hail a taxi and find the new line, conveniently isolated about 4k from the city centre!  Luckily, the next train west to Kiato, left in an hour.  Time for breakfast then, from a selection of 10 different cheese pastries, all indigestion inducing, to accompany our latest addiction, freddochino (cold coffee). 

Little did we know that our first and only train stop, Kiato, was the end of the new line – 15 mins in all, needing another hour by bus to Dhiakofto, a sleepy coastal village.  Just in time for the next “rack” train to Kalavryta – it leaves… in an hour (for an extortionate €38 return for us both).   

Some of the scenery and a few interesting bridges
(all terrible photos because of closed windows)

Built in 1889 by Italians intent on transferring mined ore to the coast, this 22km of narrow-gauge line follows the steadily rising Vouraikos gorge.  We snaked our way up 1:7 gradients skimpily clinging to rocky ledges and scant bridges spanning precipitous ravines.  First stop (after 45mins) was leafy Zakhlorou for those wishing to visit the Great Cave Monastery, once prosperous, until WW2 when Nazi Germany relieved it of its antiques and relics (fortunately, much has been recovered).  From here our journey continued higher into “alpine” fields below Mt Helmos to the delightful village of Kalavryta.  We walked cobbled streets to discover its grim past.  Due to partisan activity in this area, German occupiers, in 1943, killed all village males and torched the town.  Now, many Greeks make this visit as a pilgrimage.   Nearby Mt Helmos, a busy ski resort in winter was in more ancient times better renown as the source of the legendary river Styx.

Kalavryta's restored church and lovely mosaics.
The left clocktower is fixed at the exact time of the massacre.

We arrived back at Dhiakofto thinking our wait for the next bus/train back to Korinthos would be short. Clearly not!  The ticket officer stamped his finger at 18:15 on an Athens timetable.  Three hours then to sit beside the town fountain in Dhiakofto with sleepy residents and their sleepy dogs.  (Have we mentioned that whole towns close down from 1-6pm for lunch and a snooze.)  Finally back at Kiato, we discovered that “return tickets all paid” was as accurate advice as the timetable information we’d been given.  Forking over yet another €6 we had to run for the train.  Back to WJ3 by 8.30pm!  In hindsight, it would have been easier and cheaper, to have just hired a car and braved the National Highway…

 

Kalavryta Station

(Photos will happen when we find somewhere to top up our sim card... )

Poseidon's Revenge

Korinthos Yacht Harbour

Up for an early departure in Chios

Refining Nav plans
(photo from Jenny on Far Away)

 Having left the concrete bunker in Chios, we made a fine, if not long, day of it across to Andros.  All creatures were happy; including GS and two pods of industrious dolphins sweeping by, busy looking for a tasty snack or two.  None more so though, than our hitchhiker Sid, who sang his cicada love song with great gusto for the whole 91 miles!  He abandoned us quickly in Gavrion, no doubt to find romance and a suitable audience for his tales of daring-do.

Gavrion (Andros) is a busy dock and ferry terminal on the Cyclades route.  Its circular shape and steep hills behind would have been perfect inspiration for Greek theatre construction.  Sound carried effortlessly and we wondered if many village secrets were betrayed as a result.  Enormous ferries used our anchorage as something of a turning circle, so finally we moved closer to shore (in shallower water) to alleviate grief on both parts.  The next morning, after Cap’n Devoted replaced a worn fan-belt on the engine, and as two ferries arrived in quick succession, we headed off under sail for Kea.

Gavrion on Andros

Oh, not more company in the anchorage...

Luckily we arrived in Kea early because predicted gentle north winds came, at 18kts, from the south and it was a bun-fight at the small anchorage. We managed to squeeze in avoiding the ire of Korissia Port Police who were determined to keep the ferry dock free from those idiotic enough to anchor there.  These ferries not only needed a turning circle, but also room to lay out giant anchors and vast quantities of chain – med moor style.  Again, we moved closer to the beach to keep out of harm’s way and settled in for a quiet night.  Given an evening of even more hectic anchoring goings-on, we decided not to stay and explore the island (and its Minoan Palace – largely rubble) but head over to Poros tucked up safely in the Saronic Gulf and celebrate our near-perfect Aegean Sea crossing.

Plans of anchoring at the foot of Poseidon’s Temple at Cape Sounion also went astray due to continued southerlies.  A sail past however was in order to pay respects to the ancient god of the seas.  Clearly our offering was not taken well (cheap Aussies!) because not long afterwards our main furling line snapped (in only 15 kts) necessitating a few unpleasant words and a rush of activity.  The silver lining was of course, a splendid opportunity to rummage about in every available chandlery and hardware shop.  Now, WJ3 sports a bright green furling line, perfect for the colour blind and suitable “sailing-for-dummies” material.
 



Boats of all sizes crowd the town dock in Poros

Having rested in Poros for a few very enjoyable days, we were ready to tackle the Corinth Canal transit, so made our way up to Aegina.  On the way, we paused briefly for a look at Methana, a quaint harbour and village, celebrated for its hot springs and sulphur baths.  An extinct volcano, all black and gloomy, towers above the village. 

Leaving the headland, we were smacked by blasts 18-20kts coming from the NW– not predicted, of course!  As our planned Aegina anchorage was exposed to this, we chose Salamis and its quiet, out-of-the-way township as a better place to hide.  Not before noticing scuttling clouds coming our way.  Could that be rain?  Yes, with a 30kt gale running before it…  Seatbelts on, hatches closed, we bounced, shuddered and crashed our way across the Saronic Gulf to Salamis.    

Salamis

Salamis is surrounded in part by military territory and despite being very close to Athens, appears not to be frequently visited by the likes of us.  It’s nice to experience a Greek town not set up to service tourists or vast charter fleets.  At the fisherman’s dock, beyond the long town promenade, grandly planted with palm trees, we found a supermarket and petrol station so were able to satisfy two urgent needs.  Historically, the island is no backwater having, in 480 BC, been the site of the decimation of Xerxes’ fleet (those dreaded Persians) – a much more powerful force – and thus a dramatic shift of power back to the West.

Next morning we set off for the canal, anchoring at Isthmia to observe procedures for negotiating this narrow, km of channel.  The canal dates back to Roman times (well, the idea for it) and Nero, using Jewish slaves, actually commenced digging.  Meanwhile, a wheeled platform  over a paved road carried boats across the isthmus and cargo, no doubt transferred by donkey and even more slave labour.  The current canal dates to 1890’s and is suitable now only for small commercial traders and pleasure craft.  Thus for WJ3 (all 14m), the transit cost was €240.  We reflected back on our Intra-Coastal Waterway experience in the US.  All canal and bridge transits were simply part of the experience.  Welcome to the Med, bring money….  Having made the canal exit (West) we made for nearby Corinth (Korinthos) and its yacht harbour to make plans for exploring a little more of the Peloponnese by land.

Transiting under bridges.
Parts of the old wall were still visible in some areas.

Nearly at the end

Bridge open; welcome to the Gulf of Korinthos

 

From: Poros, Greece Lat/Long: 37:30.235N 23:26.444E Date/Time: 15/07/14: 0920

To: Korinthos, Greece Lat/Long: 37:56.475N 22:56.202E Date/Time: 17/07/14: 1110
Time Taken: 62nm (13hrs) Distance (this year): 646nm (111hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13979nm   Weather: Variable & unpredictable
On leaving balmy Poros, held on through one blast of 20kts only to be severely trounced with 30kts.  
Fastest Speed: Find a protected anchorage & don’t spare the horses!

Reconsidering Greece

Poros

So, here we sit in the Saronic Gulf having re-crossed the Aegean, with much to consider.  Given that we had a fairly bad time of it last year, we were fully prepared for the worst and made our crossing quickly, hoping it would be painless.  And it was.  In fact, it was a delight.

Ok, he wins - I think we'll move...  Gavrion, Andros

Greece has 1400 islands, probably more.  Then there’s the mainland to consider.  Our float plan was to visit a few of the quieter islands, then concentrate on mainland Greece, the Peloponnese in particular.  There are lots and lots of ruins of breathtaking age; every town has a museum brimming with amazing artefacts, every island or town at least one story of significance.  Tavernas, offering the delights of Greek cuisine, dot almost every harbour, beach and cove; townsfolk are friendly and welcoming.  There are many sirens, tempting and persuading an unhurried voyage through this country. 

Life never comes without lessons, so we offer these salient points when planning to sail Greece.  All of course, learned in hindsight:

Have lots of options planned.  There is more to Greece than tourist brochure vistas. There are loads of holiday makers and boat/shipping traffic.  Don’t be in a hurry or too inflexible in your planning.  Make use of local transport opportunities to fill the gaps – eg. we caught a ferry to Hydra.

Temple of Poseidon, 440BC. Cape Sounion.
We (sailors) made offerings of Euro coins into the seas - cheap really when you
consider Alexander the Great cast his 4 best horses & chariot into the depths.

Don’t underestimate weather conditions.  Check weather forecasts regularly as they can change from day to day.  Conditions can also vary, even over the shortest distance and/or as you round a point of land.  Unlike much of the Med, winds in the Aegean are a regular feature, which is good for sailing providing the wind is from the right direction.  Avoid the worst of the Meltemi (July & August) or be exceptionally patient and be introduced to katabatic winds.  Expect the unexpected.  We also applied the Van Sant maxim (learnt from Caribbean days) – leave early, arrive early. 

We found internet access essential.  Last year our biggest mistake was hasty on-shore Wi-Fi stops (we had no choice).  Now, with our trusty Vodafone data dongle, we can check local conditions for all points of the day’s sail on Windguru and then match the big picture on Passage Weather to our float plan.  (There are lots of other weather information options of course; it’s very much a matter of personal preference.)  

Sharing the Town Dock, Poros

Shared experiences.  We decided early on that town docks were not for us, preferring the quiet life on anchor.  We chose our stops accordingly and found some good recommendations, both on the internet (Noonsite & Jim B) and from talking to others out there on the water.

Just in case you think we are about to join the legions of cruising folk who are devoted entirely to Greece, we are not.  We have, as my mother says, “ants in our pants” and just gotta keep movin’ along.  Besides, there may be a huge Greek community in Australia but right now, right here, there are vast numbers of Aussies on boats attempting to level that score. 

Not quite sure what this was about - but we had
ring-side seats

 

From: Chios, Greece Lat/Long: 38:23.206N 26:08.342E Date/Time: 9/07/14: 0800
To: Poros, Greece Lat/Long: 37:30.235N 23:26.444E Date/Time: 11/07/14: 1600
Time Taken: 167.5nm (25.5hrs) Distance (this year): 584nm (98hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13917nm   Weather: Light & all around the dial avg. 10-18kts;
Fastest Speed: 7.1kts under sail; motored in benign or wind-on-nose conditions

Early evening, Poros Town from our anchorage

Jelly Bean Wars

Chios, Greece

Mesta

Despite cruel winds, we managed a day touring two of Chios’s famed mastic villages.  Mastic, or a gum resin is still refined from odd, scrubby trees that grow in the south.  It’s most famous use was in the manufacture of chewy sweets, and considered by the ladies of Istanbul’s harems something of an aphrodisiac.  When Chios withheld supplies (and the ladies’ needs were strong apparently), the incensed Turks set upon the Chiot. Numbers killed or enslaved were horrendous, many villages decimated (1822).  However a few rural, mastic producing villages, mastichochora, were preserved. 

One of the main gates into the complex village

We bussed to Mesta and took an hour to walk through this labyrinthine medieval and well-fortified village.  Cobbled streets, under vaulted tunnels of two storey houses, lead to a leafy town square set out with many eateries and a large Baroque style 18^th c church, Megas Taxarchis, said to be one of largest & wealthiest in Greece. 

 

Sadly, gates were locked, so we continued following the robust village walls back to our bus stop.  Not before investigating a small craft shop, replete with loom.  GS was treated to a display of very fine weaving and allowed to wander through the cave-like premises, presumably once a home.

 

 

  

Patron Saint perhaps?  Mesta

Next stop, Pyrgi (peer gee). Here, village houses are covered in xysta, or a mesmerising mix of geometric patterns cut into white plaster.  Inside the maze of these fascinatingly decorated houses, we stumbled on the remnants of ancient village walls and just off from the village square, a complete surprise, the tiny, fresco covered 12^th c Ayii Apostoli (Church of the Holy Apostles).  These 17^th c frescoes, rendered in Chios folk-art style, are said to be the work of a Cretan artist and are in beautiful condition (no photos allowed).  To add further to the surprises held by this village, we discovered that families here claim descent from Christopher Columbus.  (Seafaring, now merchant navies, seems to be a traditional island occupation.)

Pyrgi - note the ropes of drying tomatoes & garlic

Bound by an infrequent bus service, we did not have time to dally, however on the way home through desolate rural landscapes, modest resorts and fabulous views across to Turkey we pondered how such a small island could host one of history’s most famous sons. Homer is said to have been born on the island (one of many such claims by similar contenders it would seem) but the northern village of Volissos appears the favoured site.

 

Hardly room to park a motorbike

 

Days of Idyll (not quite)

Chios, Greece

Town Dock, Mytilini, Greece

The day came to clear out of Turkey’s tranquil waters (so far, so good) and travel across to the Greek island of Lesbos.  We hoisted our Greek courtesy and yellow clearance (the only goodie two-shoes to fly one) flags and set sail for Mytilini, thankfully not far away.  We were whistled into the immigration/customs dock by an attractive member of the Port Police and the Cap’n dashed off to get his paperwork (carbon copied in triplicate) certified and cruising permits organised.  This took the rest of the day….

Greece but showing a distinct Italian flavour

Our plan to anchor on the island’s south – poised to cross to Chios early next day – were dashed; two choices then, marina or town dock.  At €6 per night for the dock, we thought we’d give town life a go.  We found ourselves in the heart of Mytilini and despite promenading townsfolk (a regular evening habit) and traffic, had only steps to take to restaurants, an exceedingly helpful Vodafone store (to arrange internet access) and pork sausages.  Whilst we enjoyed our stay in Turkey, Mytilini was like a breath of fresh air.

Sails up, leaning over & NO engine! Whoohoo!

We left early next morning, primarily to ensure GS did not strangle the lone bass guitarist, still playing to late night revellers at a near-by club.  The crossing to Chios was slow due to wind-crossing-current chop but eventually a decent breeze cropped up to give us a nice push down the coast.  With a few days of nasty winds forecast, we decided to check an unfinished marina north of Chios Harbour.  Although all spaces had been taken on the quay, one of the fingers was free and we proceeded in with a truly spectacular docking display.  It took us all of 40 minutes to tie up (using winches) – side on in escalating 18-20kt winds.  The gathered collection of cruising yachties watched in silence; the other Aussie boat left next morning without a word or wave… 

Ancient Windmills from our unfinished marina berth, Chios

So here we are currently pinned, like bugs under glass.  In winds currently roaring over, gusting occasionally over 40kts.  For at least 3 more days (it’s been two already).  WJ3 is heeled over as if she’s on an ocean going passage, the Cap’n is making chafe collars for the now, 8 mooring lines and GS finds solace in the lee berth at night.  Ahhhh, the Meltemi has found us…..

Blowing a near gale (F7-8) in Chios

 

From: Ayvalik Turkey Lat/Long: 39:17.434N 26:39.884E Date/Time: 1/07/14: 0800
To: Chios, Greece Lat/Long: 38:23.206N 26:08.342E Date/Time: 1/07/14: 1600
Time Taken: 68nm (12hrs) Distance (this year): 416.5nm (72.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13749.5nm   Weather: Northerlies avg. 25-35kts, G44kts;
Fastest Speed: 7.8kts in 18.5kt winds - under sail

Stones & Bones

Bergama

Temple of Trajan, Acropolis in Pergamum

There was one more pile of rocks we felt inclined to explore in Turkey - Pergamum - and we’re very glad we did.  The site is neither as restored nor visited as Ephesus but it is grand indeed.  A lot has to do with its location - being perched, breathtakingly, above a dusty agricultural town, surrounded by desolate mountain ranges and lush agricultural valleys (well, lush for the Med!). 

We started with coffee at the Bergama otogar (bus station), joining a group of old men chattering, drinking cay (chai or tea) and constantly smoking under a shady grapevine arbour. I’m guessing that most visitors bus in on guided tours, for our wanderings attracted rather more attention than we’re used to.   We planned to hire a taxi for a round of sites and, kindly, our proprietors phoned a first-class one for us.

Revived by coffee, we hit the ruins.  So, with a guide book tucked under our arms, we took our own walking tour of the Acropolis.  Pergamum’s fortunes improved after Lysimachus (one of Alexander’s generals) acquired it after 334BC.  From then, a succession of rulers built the Anatolian Kingdom into a powerful, prosperous, and cultural centre that stood as an important gateway between Syria and Macedonia.

Death-defying night at the Theatre

The Temple of Trajan, the only surviving Roman structure, has been given a modest makeover (German archaeologists with a fondness for complex architectural descriptors in the signposting) that gives some insight into this city’s magnificence in its heyday. Walking north, we found the Arsenal with advantageous views across the plains and down to a large lake.  After scrambling over the ruins of Eumenes II’s Palace, we stopped in the shade of an olive tree to imagine the fabulous Library that was to eventually contest that of Egypt’s Alexandria; not without some international repercussion.  The most impressive site however, must have been the Theatre. Economically built into the side of an almost vertical cliff, its elongated shape marks its architectural brilliance.  It would not however, be the place to sit on blustery days.  I had visions of spectators rolling down the side of the hill, rather like those unfortunate cows in the Azores.

Finishing with the Acropolis, we took a brief tour of the huge Red Basilica.  Originally built and dedicated to Egyptian gods in 2^nd c AD, it was declared by Christians as a Devil’s throne. Currently undergoing a massive renovation, we were only able to access a small circular side building that houses a few interesting pieces of sculpture. Behind though, shedloads of yet more discoveries were stored, awaiting perhaps, a generous and interested benefactor. 
  

The Egyptian influence is rather apparent
at the Red Basilica

In a lower valley, sit the ruins of the Asclepion, an ancient treatment centre where patients (not pregnant women or the dying*) undertook therapies including mud baths, bathing in sacred waters, herbal remedies and ointments.  Galen (AD 131-210) was the most eminent physician to practise and teach here.  His studies formed a strong foundation for the practice and principles of medicine as we know it. 

Another Fountain of Youth - yeah, yeah!

View of the lofty Pergamum Acropolis from the Asclepion 

On the way out of the Asclepion, our Cap’n noticed a garage of M60 tanks.  After brief greetings (through a strongly wired fence) with a crew taking a cigarette break, there was pause for a reflective moment; did I notice some bleary eyes?  Back at the otogar, we sipped cay, again to the curiosity of all, until our considerate bus driver sent a young man to fetch us.  The experience of the day however transpired at the Ayvalik otogar when we changed buses for the marina.  The Cap’n took the chance for a loo break, letting the driver know.  Ah, but it was the wrong driver…  Ours jumped aboard and gunned the engine ready for the trip to town.  Previously silent passengers suddenly erupted in general chat, which was silenced after a young man was sent to find the errant foreigner. There is something wonderfully rewarding in the kindness of strangers – all without a word of English!

 

* Perhaps it was bad for their health.  Or indeed hindered success rate statistics & subsequently government grants?