Poseidon's Revenge

Korinthos Yacht Harbour

Up for an early departure in Chios

Refining Nav plans
(photo from Jenny on Far Away)

 Having left the concrete bunker in Chios, we made a fine, if not long, day of it across to Andros.  All creatures were happy; including GS and two pods of industrious dolphins sweeping by, busy looking for a tasty snack or two.  None more so though, than our hitchhiker Sid, who sang his cicada love song with great gusto for the whole 91 miles!  He abandoned us quickly in Gavrion, no doubt to find romance and a suitable audience for his tales of daring-do.

Gavrion (Andros) is a busy dock and ferry terminal on the Cyclades route.  Its circular shape and steep hills behind would have been perfect inspiration for Greek theatre construction.  Sound carried effortlessly and we wondered if many village secrets were betrayed as a result.  Enormous ferries used our anchorage as something of a turning circle, so finally we moved closer to shore (in shallower water) to alleviate grief on both parts.  The next morning, after Cap’n Devoted replaced a worn fan-belt on the engine, and as two ferries arrived in quick succession, we headed off under sail for Kea.

Gavrion on Andros

Oh, not more company in the anchorage...

Luckily we arrived in Kea early because predicted gentle north winds came, at 18kts, from the south and it was a bun-fight at the small anchorage. We managed to squeeze in avoiding the ire of Korissia Port Police who were determined to keep the ferry dock free from those idiotic enough to anchor there.  These ferries not only needed a turning circle, but also room to lay out giant anchors and vast quantities of chain – med moor style.  Again, we moved closer to the beach to keep out of harm’s way and settled in for a quiet night.  Given an evening of even more hectic anchoring goings-on, we decided not to stay and explore the island (and its Minoan Palace – largely rubble) but head over to Poros tucked up safely in the Saronic Gulf and celebrate our near-perfect Aegean Sea crossing.

Plans of anchoring at the foot of Poseidon’s Temple at Cape Sounion also went astray due to continued southerlies.  A sail past however was in order to pay respects to the ancient god of the seas.  Clearly our offering was not taken well (cheap Aussies!) because not long afterwards our main furling line snapped (in only 15 kts) necessitating a few unpleasant words and a rush of activity.  The silver lining was of course, a splendid opportunity to rummage about in every available chandlery and hardware shop.  Now, WJ3 sports a bright green furling line, perfect for the colour blind and suitable “sailing-for-dummies” material.
 



Boats of all sizes crowd the town dock in Poros

Having rested in Poros for a few very enjoyable days, we were ready to tackle the Corinth Canal transit, so made our way up to Aegina.  On the way, we paused briefly for a look at Methana, a quaint harbour and village, celebrated for its hot springs and sulphur baths.  An extinct volcano, all black and gloomy, towers above the village. 

Leaving the headland, we were smacked by blasts 18-20kts coming from the NW– not predicted, of course!  As our planned Aegina anchorage was exposed to this, we chose Salamis and its quiet, out-of-the-way township as a better place to hide.  Not before noticing scuttling clouds coming our way.  Could that be rain?  Yes, with a 30kt gale running before it…  Seatbelts on, hatches closed, we bounced, shuddered and crashed our way across the Saronic Gulf to Salamis.    

Salamis

Salamis is surrounded in part by military territory and despite being very close to Athens, appears not to be frequently visited by the likes of us.  It’s nice to experience a Greek town not set up to service tourists or vast charter fleets.  At the fisherman’s dock, beyond the long town promenade, grandly planted with palm trees, we found a supermarket and petrol station so were able to satisfy two urgent needs.  Historically, the island is no backwater having, in 480 BC, been the site of the decimation of Xerxes’ fleet (those dreaded Persians) – a much more powerful force – and thus a dramatic shift of power back to the West.

Next morning we set off for the canal, anchoring at Isthmia to observe procedures for negotiating this narrow, km of channel.  The canal dates back to Roman times (well, the idea for it) and Nero, using Jewish slaves, actually commenced digging.  Meanwhile, a wheeled platform  over a paved road carried boats across the isthmus and cargo, no doubt transferred by donkey and even more slave labour.  The current canal dates to 1890’s and is suitable now only for small commercial traders and pleasure craft.  Thus for WJ3 (all 14m), the transit cost was €240.  We reflected back on our Intra-Coastal Waterway experience in the US.  All canal and bridge transits were simply part of the experience.  Welcome to the Med, bring money….  Having made the canal exit (West) we made for nearby Corinth (Korinthos) and its yacht harbour to make plans for exploring a little more of the Peloponnese by land.

Transiting under bridges.
Parts of the old wall were still visible in some areas.

Nearly at the end

Bridge open; welcome to the Gulf of Korinthos

 

From: Poros, Greece Lat/Long: 37:30.235N 23:26.444E Date/Time: 15/07/14: 0920

To: Korinthos, Greece Lat/Long: 37:56.475N 22:56.202E Date/Time: 17/07/14: 1110
Time Taken: 62nm (13hrs) Distance (this year): 646nm (111hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13979nm   Weather: Variable & unpredictable
On leaving balmy Poros, held on through one blast of 20kts only to be severely trounced with 30kts.  
Fastest Speed: Find a protected anchorage & don’t spare the horses!