Stones & Bones

Bergama, Turkey

Temple of Trajan, Acropolis in Pergamum

There was one more pile of rocks we felt inclined to explore in Turkey - Pergamum - and we’re very glad we did.  The site is neither as restored nor visited as Ephesus but it is grand indeed.  A lot has to do with its location - being perched, breathtakingly, above a dusty agricultural town, surrounded by desolate mountain ranges and lush agricultural valleys (well, lush for the Med!). 

We started with coffee at the Bergama otogar (bus station), joining a group of old men chattering, drinking cay (chai or tea) and constantly smoking under a shady grapevine arbour. I’m guessing that most visitors bus in on guided tours, for our wanderings attracted rather more attention than we’re used to.   We planned to hire a taxi for a round of sites and, kindly, our proprietors phoned a first-class one for us.

Revived by coffee, we hit the ruins.  So, with a guide book tucked under our arms, we took our own walking tour of the Acropolis.  Pergamum’s fortunes improved after Lysimachus (one of Alexander’s generals) acquired it after 334BC.  From then, a succession of rulers built the Anatolian Kingdom into a powerful, prosperous, and cultural centre that stood as an important gateway between Syria and Macedonia.

Death-defying night at the Theatre

The Temple of Trajan, the only surviving Roman structure, has been given a modest makeover (German archaeologists with a fondness for complex architectural descriptors in the signposting) that gives some insight into this city’s magnificence in its heyday. Walking north, we found the Arsenal with advantageous views across the plains and down to a large lake.  After scrambling over the ruins of Eumenes II’s Palace, we stopped in the shade of an olive tree to imagine the fabulous Library that was to eventually contest that of Egypt’s Alexandria; not without some international repercussion.  The most impressive site however, must have been the Theatre. Economically built into the side of an almost vertical cliff, its elongated shape marks its architectural brilliance.  It would not however, be the place to sit on blustery days.  I had visions of spectators rolling down the side of the hill, rather like those unfortunate cows in the Azores.

Finishing with the Acropolis, we took a brief tour of the huge Red Basilica.  Originally built and dedicated to Egyptian gods in 2^nd c AD, it was declared by Christians as a Devil’s throne. Currently undergoing a massive renovation, we were only able to access a small circular side building that houses a few interesting pieces of sculpture. Behind though, shedloads of yet more discoveries were stored, awaiting perhaps, a generous and interested benefactor. 

Egyptian influence is rather apparent at the Red Basilica

In a lower valley, sit the ruins of the Asclepion, an ancient treatment centre where patients undertook therapies including mud baths, bathing in sacred waters, herbal remedies and ointments.  Not pregnant women or the dying though!. Perhaps it was bad for their health.  Or indeed hindered success rate statistics & subsequently government grants?  Galen (AD 131-210) was the most eminent physician to practise and teach here.  His studies formed a strong foundation for the practice and principles of medicine as we know it today. 

Another Fountain of Youth - yeah, yeah!

View of the lofty Pergamum Acropolis from the Asclepion 

On the way out of the Asclepion, our Cap’n noticed a garage of M60 tanks.  After brief greetings (through a strongly wired fence) with a crew taking a cigarette break, there was pause for a reflective moment.  Did I notice some bleary eyes?  

Back at the otogar, we sipped cay, again to the curiosity of all, until our considerate bus driver sent a young man to fetch us.  The experience of the day however transpired at the Ayvalik otogar when we changed buses for the marina.  The Cap’n took the chance for a quick loo break, letting the driver know.  Ah, but it was the wrong driver…  A replacement driver jumped aboard and gunned the engine ready for the trip to town.  Previously silent passengers suddenly erupted in general chat, which was silenced after a young man was sent to find the errant foreigner. There is something wonderfully rewarding in the kindness of strangers – all without a word of English!