A Jump to the Left

X-ing File #5_Antigua to Bahamas (perhaps)

Here we go then, frogs in a pond, leaping from island to island, heading north.  As one does.  So, with apologies to "The Rocky Horror Show":

It’s just a jump to the left

And then a step to the right

With your hands on your hips

You bring your knees in tight

But it’s that island time

That really drives you insane…

Let’s do the Time Warp, again; Let’s do the Time Warp, again

Antigua: Falmouth Harbour 

Shelter for a few in the mangroves off English Harbour

Yes, we’re back in the Caribbean.  Right here in a well-protected Falmouth Harbour in Antigua at the peak of the cruising season.  Let me tell you that the water is turquoise, ruffled by the Trades (in full swing), the temperature is 28 to 29°C and a swim, off the back of the boat, is just delightful. 

It seems we timed our arrival with predicted unpleasant winds, so both English and Falmouth Harbours were full to the brim with sailors hiding from and waiting out the weather.  Still, we managed to squeeze into a relatively shallow spot (there are times when WJ3’s stumpy, winged keel comes in very handy!).  Apart from resting, we did little else other than try to sort out electrical and generator problems (to no avail).  Having toured the island before (reminisce 2008, see WJ308) with Boy Wonder, we felt the urge to move on with an overnighter to St Martin.

Nelson's Dockyard: a working marina now but Georgian features are evident

The anchor had other ideas having developed an attachment to a serious piece of rock encrusted with coral.  It was a testing moment for both the anchor winch and GS.  However, thanks to a Good Samaritan (American flagged Catamaran, WindyChimes) with a trusty hammer and obvious previous experience in coral extraction, our entwined buddies separated.  The coral remained in Falmouth Harbour, the anchor (Bertha) came back on board and we escaped.  It’s great to be back in the Caribbean! 

Sint Maarten

We had high hopes that Sint Maarten, with its duty-free chandleries and thriving yachting service industry, might just offer the chance to resolve WJ3’s ongoing problems - despite its direct hit by Hurricane Irma in 2017.  We arrived early in the morning (true to form – in the dark) to anchor is a somewhat choppy Simpson Bay on the Dutch side of the island.  The Cap’n timed his clearances just before bridge opening so we happily up-anchored and moved into the calmer Lagoon.  Last time we visited we also spent some time here, anchoring on the French side, in order to significantly upgrade WJ3’s electronics, have a stainless dodger frame constructed and filled the lockers & fridges with goodies from very large and well stocked supermarkets. 

Little has changed.  There’s still a fair bit of wreckage in and around the lagoon (Hurricane Irma, 2017) and a new bridge spanning the Dutch side but many businesses are operational and offering even us yachties some chance to find mechanics and electricians.  These floating “gin palaces” that seem to breed here in the lagoon don’t always have it their way. 

A glimpse in most corners of the Lagoon of hurricane damage

So, we now find ourselves at the dock of FKG Rigging having the rigging and guard rails replaced…at great expense.  It’s been 10 years since it was last replaced (in the BVI) and now a hot insurance must, so no arguments.  At least its pleasant being dock-side and close to a watering hole frequented by fellow Aussies.  Whilst breasting the Lagoonies Bar for happy hour, we’ve practiced our “strine”, learned the weather is unusually wet & blustery for the Caribbean this year (I think it followed us from the Med) and enjoyed the company of fellow cruisers en masse – something we rarely achieved in the Med.

Windjammer, what have I done to you?

The Mast is going, going...

Oh, it's just too sad...

Accessing the internet is somewhat of a challenge here.  Power & internet come and go; rather like living in Delhi..  So, we do what we can, when we can.  Today's a good day, so tomorrow may be better, or not!  Photos as always to follow.  And next report from the BVI...

Your Captain Speaking

To give some balance to the previous less than technical (or enthusiastic) report of our voyage across the Atlantic, the Cap’n has been asked to write a summary of the voyage in terms that those with some nautical bent will appreciate.  Questions at the end…

For those with a sailing bent.  

We poled out the genoa to port on day three and there it stayed for the next 14 days.  The only movement was to reef it and then unreef it as squalls came through and passed on, which were daily occurrences but no problem with roller furling – very easy in fact. We hardly used the mainsail as WJ3 has very swept back spreaders and I don’t like the mainsail rubbing against the spreaders/standing rigging.  

Winds were a steady 15-20 knots and it was a slow day when they dropped to 10-15, which happened on a couple of days.  ‘Bert’, the Hydrovane, steered all the way except when it occasionally became overwhelmed in gusts which could be up to and sometimes over 30knots, and I had to step up and steer us back on course.   I might add here that when Bert is steering, the wheel and boat rudder are locked and Bert’s rudder steers the boat.  It’s a much smaller rudder than WJ3’s so it simply can’t cope in big gusts when the natural tendency for the boat is to round up into the wind.  Anyway, it made for very relaxing sailing, however, it certainly can’t maintain as steady a course as an autopilot but then it doesn’t consume any power and is extremely quiet.  Overall pretty easy sailing but the odd night of vicious and frequent squalls plus the boat’s constant rolling and rocking over 16 days made landfall even more sweet.

“The time gone has been good;

the time to come will be even better.” 

The cry of cabin boys at every Change of Watch on Columbus’s ships. 15^th c.

Westward Drift

X-ing File #4_Cape Verdes to the Caribbean

Botticelli's "Birth of Venus".  (1484-86)  Source: Wiki

A few will recognise the amazing painting above by Botticelli (in Florence’s Uffizi Gallery).  Meet Miss Venus floating on her craft of a beautiful shell (perhaps it’s an early version of the outrageously expensive Oyster).  Anyway, back to the painting.  Cute zephyrs create a gentle breeze to waft her to shore, where attendants await with a heavily embroidered silk cloak.  Let me tell you, sailing in the Trades is nothing like that.  Even remotely.

The Cap’n suggested that we might have done better if GS had removed a few garments too (Venus does look great, does she not?).  Aside from the obvious nightly wind chill factor necessitating thermals and bruises from being battered as we rocked and rolled along, we always wore our most basic safety gear, a harness and tether.  Sea boots completed the attractive ensemble so there’s no slipping on deck.  So, in all, GS imagined that dressed as suggested, even Venus would have been more suitably attired for an Oxford Street Mardi-Gras, After-Party.  (As we moved further west and into warmer weather, we could generally dispense with the outer armour - heavy duty wet-weather gear bib & brace pants and jacket. We later relished the opportunity to sit in shorts & tees.)

In all, we sailed 2110nm; probably more given Bert’s (Hydrovane) tendency to slew with the swell.  Our initial intention was to head for Barbados but as we were able to maintain a good course, plans changed and we stayed high to make for Antigua.  That decision added a couple of extra days & miles, but would place us further up the Caribbean island chain, saving a few weeks off our float plan at least.  Besides, Antigua has wonderful anchorages.  English Harbour was one of our favourites when we sailed through in 2008.

Initially, conditions out of the Cape Verdes were still subject to strong North Easterlies, which created a bit of turbulence.  After a couple of days, we cleared and caught the E Trades and settled in for the long haul.  In all we had some good winds which helped push us along, especially at night, so managed to make Antigua in 16 days despite the ongoing presence of swell from various directions giving us a constant rock-rolling.  However, the Atlantic decided we were far too complacent so ensured a rugged “farewell” for our last few days.  We flew round the island’s southern tip at dawn and thankfully into easier conditions before flinging out the hook in Falmouth Harbour.

So, what did we do to amuse ourselves? 

#  Sailing through star filled skies at night was a bonus.  Bioluminescence in the breaking crests and wake at night was equally fascinating.

#  Alfa Male flying fish gave us some amusement with their attempts to clear the dodger side-on with a single leap.  We figured they had set bets within the school!  Some of course, didn’t make it (natural selection in action?) and hit the deck.  The Cap’n added fish removal to his daily chore list.  No, we didn’t fish, nor did we cook the flying fish.  We did open some cans of ‘dolphin-free’ fish, however.

#  Given the conditions, cooking was a severely reduced affair; tins of sardines, baked beans or 2 Min Noodles were generally the go.  The Cap’n resorted to his “ration pack” approach whilst GS designated the galley a no-go (or rarely-go) zone.

#  The Cap’n read & GS did not.  But we all know he can read hanging upside down underwater in a hurricane. 

#  Luckily, he also got most of the ship-dodging action on his shifts.  This gave him opportunity to play with his AIS and radar.  I think we saw 4 freighters in all. Two, given the wide expanse of the Atlantic, came within a nautical mile of us.  Much. Too. Close.

We also celebrated Australia Day mid-Atlantic
by wearing shorts, tees & no shoes

Lastly, and most certainly mid-Atlantic, we had a Bermuda Triangle of breakdowns.  First, the generator refused to start.  Keeping the batteries fully charged became an issue given that the new 8V fridge/freezer was using up a lot of WJ3’s generated solar power.  GS had found a leg of NZ lamb deep in a supermarket freezer in Lagos.  It needed to stay frozen until journey’s end for a celebratory dinner (and the Cap’n is being held to his promise of another bottle of Moet!). 

With the generator down for the count, the battery regulator decided not to charge up the ‘house” batteries.  Meaning even less power available.  Charging of essentials only was the order of the day, with the computerised charts accessed only when updating the ship’s log.  

With reduced C-Map charting facilities, the back-up was focused on Navionics on the iPad.  Right there in the middle of the Atlantic, our iPad cried for Internet connection and given that we couldn’t give it one or iTunes*, had a hissy fit and would not allow us access.  At all.  Wasn’t that convenient and so lucky we’d downloaded a ton of e-books for the trip.  Sigh.

We found this Westward Drift far more taxing than our Eastward Glide in 2011.  We’ve since read others describe the east-going route as having stronger winds and heavier seas, recommending previous heavy weather experience and carrying a drogue (we did) before attempting it.  We must have been rather fortunate; very fortunate.

*FYI.  This iPod (his) was lost at sea, along with both the Admiral’s & the Captain’s cups some time ago.  If found, please return.  All is forgiven.

Slow Boat to China

Mindelo, Cape Verde Islands

Farewelled from Mindelo, Cape Verdes by that Yachting Great, Jimmy Cornell. **
With him, to the left, is Greg (Sandro) one of 2017/18 Odyssey participants

Our tenth sailing season, 2017, came to a close during our downhill race to the Cape Verde Islands.  We tried to celebrate, we really did but somehow at midnight shift handover, and on an alcohol-free ride, New Year’s didn’t quite bring out the fun side in us…  (Yes children, you see your parents are not (entirely) fuddy duddies.).  Given that the Cap’n has been away from home for 5 months too, this seemed the appropriate occasion to add up the yearly stats: 

From: Lagos, Portugal Lat/Long: 37:06.45N 08:40.27W  Date/Time: 2/11/17: 1510

To: Mindelo, Cape Verdes Lat/Long: 16:53.167N 24:59.447W  Date/Time: 5/01/18: 1505

Time Taken: (this year): 314 hrs  Distance: (this year): 1733nm

Distance Total: (since 2008): 20011.5nm   Congratulations to us for making the big 20K mileage!!  Clearly, we’re not slouches…

Weather: Forecasts must be like rules – made to be broken (or over-complicated).  Very little matched conditions as we dropped south.

Fastest Speed: We had a few wild rides this season but I guess, it is winter here in the Med.

Let the next season, 2018, begin.  On with the show: “A Slow Boat to China”.  Err…let’s make that the Caribbean!

** As we were leaving Mindelo, Cape Verdes, yachts in Jimmy Cornell's Caribbean Odyssey were arriving.  How exciting to meet the man himself, even if only as we cast off docklines.  According to his bio, he has amassed 200,000nm; 3 circumnavigations; voyages to both Arctic and Antarctic; instigated the now famous ARC in 1986; put together that wonderful wealth of information for cruisers, Noonsite; and now runs the Atlantic & Caribbean Odyssey. The Cap'n, among many others at the dock, was star-struck!   

Let’s Take the Ferry, Please

Sao Antao, Cape Verde Islands

Not in Charge but still watching the Nav...

Once bitten.  You know the rest…  The channel between Sao Vicente and Santo Antao is notorious for its WAZ – those strong gusty winds and dramatic swells.  Ferry passengers are warned to take plastic bags with them.  "Here we go again", sighed GS.  Our Kiwi friends (Ross & Jo, Soujourn) and the friendly marina staff recommended a tour of Santo Antao.  We had the contact details for Jonas, a young guide with an aluguer (van or ute), and absolutely no idea of what we were going to see for our day trip over this neighbouring island.  At least the weather was relatively clear and we had a fine morning view over to Santo Antao.  It looked like our tour was going to take us up some pretty steep gradients.

The moonscape above Porto Novo

After a brisk walk to the huge ferry terminal at Mindelo, we boarded and found a nicely protected cubby hole out of the wind and on the protected (leeward) side of the ferry.  The ferry is the only access to this island, so it offers a combination of foot and vehicle space.  Finally dock lines were released and the Cap’n started counting flying fish (not sheep).  Then, after some dramatic crashing and splashing as we crossed (this was a good day apparently), we arrived in Porto Novo to be met by our friendly tour guide, Jonas. 

Peering into the clouds for the deep trench of Paul's Valley.. Don't push, GS!!

Cova Krater at 1170m with a patchwork of farms

Amazing scenery continues

Jonas has a keen interest in his island home and has researched it thoroughly.  With a map in hand, he detailed his plan for the day; essentially a drive up and over the mountains, a stop for lunch at a coastal village, a chance to explore Santo Antao’s most productive and beautiful valley and then a fast drive back to the ferry terminal on the new coastal highway.

The road we followed initially was a legacy of Portuguese craftsmanship – a beautiful and superbly crafted cobbled road.  It was well maintained and planted, reflecting the pride of its inhabitants.  Views back over Porto Novo highlighted a barren landscape dotted with scrub and desert vegetation.  As we approached the top (only of the ridge we were on), the landscape began to change dramatically.  Farmers worked a patchwork of terraced fields and behind the village, pine trees sat perfectly at home in this cooler climate.  We passed a farmer with donkeys carrying water.  Jonas explained that many in rural areaslived without water to their homes.  Young people were seeking work off-island rather than continue traditional village life.  He also pointed out a number of new housing settlements which the local (& very progressive) government had designated for the poor. 

Are we in Nepal?

Views down the Paul Valley to the Portuguese settlement of Ribeira Grande

On we drove to a viewpoint, high and treacherously narrow, over the Valé do Paul (Valley of Paul).  It suddenly became quite chilly as clouds swirled and danced around us, obliterating any view.  We ducked for cover under a tree only to find that it was dripping water.  A weeping tree...  They say mountain air does funny things to you!  Further on, we watched an artistic cloud dance over the vast ancient volcanic crater, the heart of Santo Antao.  The heights were dizzying and the views spectacular.  At every turn, the scenery of deep valleys, dramatic steep slopes, forests of pine and eucalypt and tiny terraced fields reminded us of Nepal.  Walking trails litter the slopes; French and Germans revelling in steep downhill trekking, fresh air and lack of crowds.

Cobbled road along a high altitude village

On the narrow road that promised breathtakingly sheer drops, sometimes on both sides, we climbed down to the thriving Portuguese town of Ribeira Grande, in the midst of preparing for a festival; a horse race run over a track on the river bed.  From there we took the coastal road north to Ponta do Sol, a pretty pastel seaside village proud of its newly constructed hotel.  We ate lunch of freshly grilled fish looking out over the local fishing harbour – a minute and exceptionally choppy hole-in-the-wall suitable only for local boats.  We figured that fishermen must surely deserve a prize for the most dangerous job on the islands. 

It's steep down here on this side of this very narrow road ..

Yes, and it's really steep down here on this side too!

We turned our attention to Ribeira do Paul, a narrow but productive jumble of farms and terraces spread under huge breadfruit trees lining the valley that led from the crater above.  A fresh water spring fed well-maintained gardens and optimum use was made of every space.  Sugar cane was a popular crop and we learned why after stopping at a grogue shop (local distillery) to sample various concoctions of white rum.  Inventive use had been made of local fruits, creating a headache-inducing punch.  With a bottle or two, and a spicy mango “marmalade” tucked under our arms, we declared our touring day a huge success and Santo Antao spectacular. 

Coast Road scenery

Fishing Boats at the minute harbour of Ponto do Sol

So, it was back to the ferry at Porto Novo on the new asphalt coastal road via Sinagoga (a small Jewish settlement) and Janela; back to cross the moonscape we’d left earlier.  Afternoon winds had set in, conditions in the channel had not improved since the morning, so it was a race for the leeward decks.  Luckily, we still had a few plastic bags left.

Of Course, It’s Africa!

Mindelo, Cape Verde Islands

Mindelo, Sao Vicente.  Taken from the Ferry Wharf

After all the downhill momentum, and of course the thrilling, butt-clenching ride through the channel into Mindelo Harbour, it was a relief to see the marina.  Somehow, the swell never left us though and made its presence known even whilst tied at the dock.  Getting on or off WJ3 required coordination, balance and a little nerve - not always the GS’s strong points.  Wobbling & lurching to the floating bar (for coffee & wi-fi – sure!!) gave the impression that most of us were already above respectable limits, even at 10am.  To add to the milieu, nightly pummeling by wicked katabatics kept us on our toes, fenders working overtime to prevent other yachts from getting too cosy.  Long-termers had stainless springs (that squeaked) to dampen movement whilst the inventive Frenchies next to us used motorbike tyres.  Even after a few days our mooring lines had stretch beyond belief.  Judging by the number and size of the wrecks in the harbour, island life is still pretty harsh.  That said, it was a great place to break our journey.  Mindelo is lively with song and dance; the fish market, located beside that architectural giggle (the old Customs House and parody of Belem Tower in Lisbon) is well supplied with a variety of seafoods and stalls at the Market Square offer a surprising range of fresh produce.  In all, it’s a character town with lots of charm.
  

Mindelo's own Belem Tower, now a Museum

View back over Face Mountain at dusk.

The Cape Verdes are made up a group of 14 islands of volcanic origin along the Mid-Atlantic Ridge. (Google Earth is quite useful here to see the extent of that ridge.)  They sit well off the African coast (325nm) and given the harmattan (a hot, dry & dusty wind) and proximity to hurricane breeding grounds, are relatively desolate and poor; lack of water being the most critical issue.  Charles Darwin (in 1832) described them as “utterly sterile”.  That said, Mindelo is now regarded as the “Riviera” of Cape Verdes and colourful modern concrete constructions sit perfectly in tune with Portuguese colonial architecture.  De-salination plants and international airports help sustain a growing tourist industry (including the ARC and many more migrating yachties like us) and thus valuable income and employment for islanders. 

Mindelo Marina in a deceptively flat bay

Just to prove that We were There

Despite their barren appearance, Prince Henry the Navigator, with a strong business sense, saw their long-term value and so settled these uninhabited islands in the mid 1400’s.  Columbus visited on his third voyage, launching this as the perfect Trade Wind passage.  Eventually the Cape Verdes established itself as a successful merchant trading base for goods from both Africa and the West Indies.  Its history is then, the usual Atlantic island story of plunder, pilfering, pirates (Think of Drake in 1585. That man was never home!) and slavery.  In later years, the islands served as ports of call for whaling ships and trans-Atlantic steamships.  It’s not difficult to conjure up images of the tough men and women who risked their lives in these remote and rough islands to eke out a living and yet still sustain a welcome stop for sailors on this watery superhighway.  We certainly appreciated the opportunity to stretch our land legs, stock the larder, enjoy (slightly) warmer weather and get out and about a bit to learn a little more about an outlying post of Africa.