Warmest of Caribbean Wishes

Here we are.  Well into our second week in Sint Maarten, thanks mostly to even more wily winds; today they are gusting, at worst over, 30kts.  Still, there could be worse places to be even though a few nights ago there was an attempted robbery aboard a nearby catamaran.  The lagoon is filling fast as it stretches to fit yet more superyachts.  Others too big to pass through Simpson Bay bridge, cluster in nearby Great Bay, rubbing shoulders with enormous cruise ships visiting Philipsburg, daily offloading passengers to duty-free shops and entertainments like the “pee-pee**” lagoon cruise. ; )  St Bart’s too, is awash with huge hot-water boats.  And NO, the Cap’n is not thinking of upgrading…  Too many things to go wrong!

Christmas is nearly upon us and we are not quite sure exactly where we will be; although it will at least be warm and at this stage, still in the lagoon.  It is hard to move with daily reports of snow storms in the northern US and rather icy temperatures, even in the Chesapeake.  Not encouraging for our ICW leg!  Our plan was not to skate along rivers of ice...  Despite that, we’re sure Santa will manage to find us as we keep jogging along.  He at least, knows just where to find our map & tracker…

Wishing you all the merriest of Christmases, a wonderful fireworks-filled start to the New Year and an opportunity to wave the flag, wave the tongs over a fabulous lamb BBQ and celebrate Australia Day. 

(**We're anchored near the lagoon cruise point where loud announcements are made regarding restroom breaks. "Time for a pee-pee break" in a lilting Caribbean accent!  It's a giggle, every time.)

Bless those Christmas Winds...

Blood Moon & a Jump Up - all a bit spooky in St Lucia

Our last night in Rodney Bay was celebrated toasting a spectacular rise of the Blood Moon and listening to the sizzling Caribbean vibes of the jump-up held every Friday night at Gros Islet.  Just far enough from our anchorage.  We had it all!  Wafts of BBQ (plenty of smoke & tantalizing aromas) all served up with a side of very loud soca & dancehall beats.  About 5.30-ish next morning, those still standing, go home.  So, having given St Lucia our best, it was time to point WJ3’s nose northwards towards Guadeloupe and the Windwards. 

We had especially good weather as we moved up the island chain but wondered if our luck would hold thereafter.  The easterlies met up out of Deshaies, on our first big crossing to Antigua.  We surfed into Falmouth Harbour and settled for an anchorage far from the madding crowd…  Falmouth is now kitted out for superyachts and elite racing; next door, English Harbour for charter boats (mostly catamarans now).  Facilities for simple cruisers are sparse.  Even our Cap’n (never the fashionista) remarked on the change!

HMS Diamond Rock, once dressed as a ship with sails and cannon

In 1804, Diamond Rock, Martinique, was dressed as a ship, manned by 20 English sailors with 4 cannon causing much damage to the French fleet.  It is said though, that the French easily evened the score and took the island back.  Simply by "wrecking" boats on shore laden with casks of rum. "Know your enemy!"

Pointe-à-Pitre, Guadeloupe.  The busiest port in the Caribbean
& an early start for our daily "Shipping News" watch! 

A complete rainbow arc to mark our leaving Deep Bay,
Antigua for the 83 mile sail to St Bart's.

The easterlies remained and GS “pilled” up for the next long leg to St Bart's then on to St Martin.  All went well as we find ourselves in Simpson Bay Lagoon (on the Dutch side) yet again.  Close enough to regularly access takeaways from all nations – Indian curries, Korean spicy soups and French pastries.  Will we ever leave?

Not just yet.  It seems that huge sweeping systems called “Christmas Winds” are now regularly belting across vast swathes of the US, the Bahamas, Turks Caicos and northern Caribbean islands.  Doing their worst by removing our favourable Trades with winds from the north.  Better sit this out...  Pass round those chocolate croissants before they go stale then!!

Photos to follow...baby steps as we're learning the ropes now with Starlink and a brand spanking new (much larger) inverter to power it.  

Mixin' with the really big boys (lots of them) in Simpson Bay Lagoon.
No swell, just chop.  Lots of sleek go-fast boats & jet skis with
too much engine power (and not enough brain power). 

A Pelikin Breeze Blows

Simpson Bay Lagoon anchorage

Here we sit, primed and ready at the start line for our next Caribbean leg; just waiting for the weather gods to get it together again. They’re playing up, as usual!  Who would also have thought that almost 4 weeks has vanished since we arrived here in Simpson Bay Lagoon!  Ahh, Hotel California - just served Island style.

The Cap’n has busied himself with plenty of boat chores, frequented chandleries all across the island, hunted down second-hand bargains and found willing technicians to fix WJ3’s more taxing problems.  We’ve found book exchanges, French patisseries, giant hardware stores and eaten our fill of curries at Lal’s.  We’ve also become avid listeners of the morning cruisers net on VHF Channel 10 run by long timers, Shrimpies.  

Cap'n thoroughly enjoying a fabric shop stopover with GS

Much has changed on the Lagoon since our last visit.  There’s a new bridge crossing it now (lit up in Mardi Gras style at night) and our anchorage is somewhat hemmed in, sitting as it does at the foot of tall island peaks, the end of the runway, and just off the casino strip.  That translates to serious jet engine noise, loud music pumping into the early hours and katabatics & gusts blowing us hardy cruisers round like we’re mere toys in a kiddie’s bath tub…  

One of the best things, apart from being lazy, has been finding cafes or bars for free wifi (and happy hour priced drinks).  We are still unravelling the mysteries of having internet access on board - no doubt easier but certainly not so much fun!  Every island seems to have its own suppliers, frequencies and/or towers.  Not all work out here in the lagoon.  We're told it has something to do with superyachts interference.  Hmmm...  How simple it was in the Med, when we thought that having to get a new Vodaphone chip in each country was such a cross to bear!  Who would have thought it all so difficult in this age of social media obsession.  

This patisserie comes with a protection racket. 
One of three iguanas who ganged up on us for a treat.

Our reverie has been disturbed once or twice since being here.  The first was news of a sailboat break in – electronics and goods stolen and the boat trashed during the owner’s absence ashore; and the other was the sight of a large catamaran dragging anchor, thankfully missing us, (and the rather low-key response to requests for assistance). 

Anyway, we’ve refuelled, re-watered, re-provisioned and the laundry’s done!  So, we must be ready to lever the anchor out of the mud and point our nose down island.  Next stop, Nevis and then on to Guadeloupe.  Here we hope to find our guest, Lozza, waiting to join the Motley Crew.

And found time for tea with the neighbours (on an 80 foot schooner)
Either the horizon line was off that day or the drinks were strong?  

A Jump to the Left

X-ing File #5_Antigua to Bahamas (perhaps)

Here we go then, frogs in a pond, leaping from island to island, heading north.  As one does.  So, with apologies to "The Rocky Horror Show":

It’s just a jump to the left

And then a step to the right

With your hands on your hips

You bring your knees in tight

But it’s that island time

That really drives you insane…

Let’s do the Time Warp, again; Let’s do the Time Warp, again

First Stop: Antigua: Falmouth Harbour 

Shelter for a few in the mangroves off English Harbour

Yes, we’re back in the Caribbean.  Right here in a well-protected Falmouth Harbour in Antigua at the peak of the cruising season.  Let me tell you that the water is turquoise, ruffled by the Trades (in full swing), the temperature is 28 to 29°C and a swim, off the back of the boat, is just delightful. 

It seems we timed our arrival with predicted unpleasant winds, so both English and Falmouth Harbours were full to the brim with sailors hiding from and waiting out the weather.  Still, we managed to squeeze into a relatively shallow spot (there are times when WJ3’s stumpy, winged keel comes in very handy!).  Apart from resting, we did little else other than try to sort out electrical and generator problems (to no avail).  Having toured the island before (reminisce 2008, see WJ308) with Boy Wonder, we felt the urge to move on with an overnighter to St Martin.

Nelson's Dockyard: a working marina now
 but Georgian features are evident

The anchor had other ideas having developed an attachment to a serious piece of rock encrusted with coral.  It was a testing moment for both the anchor winch and GS.  However, thanks to a Good Samaritan (American flagged Catamaran, WindyChimes) with a trusty hammer and obvious previous experience in coral extraction, our entwined buddies separated.  The coral remained in Falmouth Harbour, the anchor (Bertha) came back on board and we escaped.  It’s great to be back in the Caribbean! 

Second Stop: Sint Maarten

We had high hopes that Sint Maarten, with its duty-free chandleries and thriving yachting service industry, might just offer the chance to resolve WJ3’s ongoing problems - despite its direct hit by Hurricane Irma in 2017.  We arrived early in the morning (true to form – in the dark) to anchor is a somewhat choppy Simpson Bay on the Dutch side of the island.  The Cap’n timed his clearances just before bridge opening so we happily up-anchored and moved into the calmer Lagoon.  Last time we visited we also spent some time here, anchoring on the French side, in order to significantly upgrade WJ3’s electronics, have a stainless dodger frame constructed and filled the lockers & fridges with goodies from very large and well stocked supermarkets. 

Little has changed.  There’s still a fair bit of wreckage in and around the lagoon (Hurricane Irma, 2017) and a new bridge spanning the Dutch side but many businesses are operational and offering even us yachties some chance to find mechanics and electricians.  These floating “gin palaces” that seem to breed here in the lagoon don’t always have it their way. 

A glimpse in most corners of the Lagoon of hurricane damage

So, we now find ourselves at the dock of FKG Rigging having the rigging and guard rails replaced…at great expense.  It’s been 10 years since it was last replaced (in the BVI) and now a hot insurance must, so no arguments.  At least its pleasant being dock-side and close to a watering hole frequented by fellow Aussies.  Whilst breasting the Lagoonies Bar for happy hour, we’ve practised our “strine”, learned the weather is unusually wet & blustery for the Caribbean this year (I think it followed us from the Med) and enjoyed the company of fellow cruisers en masse – something we rarely achieved in the Med.

Windjammer, what have I done to you?

The Mast is going, going...

Oh, it's just too sad...

Accessing the internet is somewhat of a challenge here.  Power & internet comes and goes; rather like living in Delhi..  So, we do what we can, when we can.  Today's a good day, so tomorrow may be better, or not!  Photos as always to follow.  And next report from the BVI (hopefully)...