Eyes on the Road

Anchored off Fernandina Beach, Florida. 
About to cross St Mary's Inlet into Georgia

Three days north of St Augustine found us safely out of Florida and up river in a sheltered Brunswick.  Tied to a transient dock.  With electricity and water, no less.  Bliss, when you’ve spent 9 hours travelling 50 miles daily along a narrow ICW corridor of lakes, rivers, and canals that can come with surprises all of their own, especially when crossing inlets.  And we’ve lost count of those… 

Well, it was a sun trap until the morning we left in 1⁰C

Brunswick Landing is a wonderful sun-trap. It is boater friendly and best of all, they have an easily accessible supermarket a few blocks over.  Our marina plan is usually to stay 3 nights.  By the time we arrive, often late in the day, then complete check in formalities, find conveniences, set up electricity and water connections and perhaps refuel (to save time on departure), our first night is chalked up.  Our two days were otherwise busy, spent washing clothes, shopping for groceries, reporting in to the Coast Guard, and fixing broken boat bits.  At least we were able to exchange a few good books in the Sailor’s Lounge and have long, long hot showers to get our blood circulating.  

Anchored in the marsh off Bear River, in Georgia.
Can you see the white mast of a cat anchored further round the bend?

Squeezing our way through some serious
bridge constructions at Thunderbolt

Getting to our first stop in Georgia had been something of an ordeal.  We managed to sort out our nav problems at St Augustine and were now glued to the blue dotted line (Bob423 overlay on Aqua Maps) following Bob’s good guidance.  The weather had other plans, and after those few sunny days in St Augustine, it was now somewhat wild and wooly, hitting lows of 1⁰C.  Crossing the St Johns River at Jacksonville, we’d encountered a nasty storm with rain, and strong, chilling winds up to 31kts.  At least the bridge with furious eddies was kind to us this time – we luckily, had arrived at slack tide.  And we didn’t bump into submarines crossing St Mary’s River Inlet either.  Always a bonus. 

Not exactly flattering, but at least we're warmish.
 (The Cap'n reckoned this pix will scare small children!)

All this cold weather was enough to send us ferreting for our down sleeping bags and jackets.  On any given day now, we are wearing up to 4 layers – long john thermals, tracksuits with hoodies, puffy jackets, wet weather gear.  All topped off with a fashionable beanie or two.  And you all thought this was fun!!

With quite the audience, unhappy at the disturbance, at some bridges

A Big Day Out

Side streets offered interesting heritage buildings too!

With the weather not being especially co-operative, we settled on a mooring ball in the huge field of St Augustine’s Municipal Marina for a few days.  It was a great spot to be, beside the Bridge of Lions, and very close to the walkable, historic part of town.  Ordering a phone sim to be sent to the office proved easy, as was finding a well-stocked boat bits store to keep the Cap’n happy.  We had less success locating a bank and a large grocery store within walking distance.  Although critical to maintaining crew harmony, we quickly dispensed with challenging chores for a better idea.  With time on our hands now, and a beautiful, sunny Florida day, we hit the tourist trail for a day of – oh, I don’t know – doing nothing but relaxing!   

Elusive Manatee - signage artwork

St Augustine was settled by the Spanish in 1565 and is considered the oldest continually occupied European settlement in the USA.  Henry Flagler, a wealthy and motivated industrialist, saw a business opportunity here in 1882, whilst on his honeymoon no-less.  Flagler built a series of resorts for the well-to-do, not only in St Augustine, but along the length of the Florida coast.  All connected naturally, by his Florida East Coast Railway.  

External features of Alcazar from Steam Room

Penny-farthings under Venetian Glass Chandeliers

We settled on exploring the Lightner Museum, once Flagler's 1888 Gilded Age resort hotel, the Alcazar.   Once resplendent with indoor pool, Turkish and Russian baths, ballroom and tennis courts, it attracted wealthy clientele.  Now a museum dedicated to hobbies and collections from the early 1900’s, it has a fine eclectic assortment including Tiffany glass, music room instruments, penny farthing bicycles, a stuffed lion, an Egyptian mummy, cut crystal glassware – the list goes on!  All staged against photos taken during those times.

The Pool in the Alcazar is now a Museum Cafe

We later strolled Old Town along pedestrian-only and very touristy George Street, eating ice-cream and thinking good thoughts about all the devoted grandparents pushing prams.  That was until a white fluffy dog popped its head up from under the covers.  Yes, it’s trending!  So, it was time then, Alice, to get back to reality.  We needed to knock a few more miles off our Mile 1018 start point total (from West Palm Beach.  Norfolk in Virginia is Mile 0 of the ICW) and judging by the northerlies and wild surf running at the St Augustine Inlet, an outside run up the coast was not an option.  GS sighed with relief

The quiet end of George Street. 
At least one dog was on a lead!

Skipping Shipping Hazards

Twins.  Let's Sea & WJ3 buddy up

Mike alerted us to a satellite launch from Cape Canaveral

Cap’n & crew arrived at Vero Beach Marina, thankfully in one piece, and settled in to marina life tucked away on a well-sheltered mooring ball.  Luckily for us, we shared with fellow Hunter 460 owners, Mike & Cala, on “Let’s Sea”.  So, much information was swapped and shared – and worse, new ideas generated!  The good times had to end, and after spending our time doing chores, shopping to replenish our sadly depleted larder, buying boat bits and doing repairs aplenty, it was time to move on.  We did wonder why we were the only ones heading north.  Still, those nasty, snow-laden fronts were at last, tracking well to the north, so there was some joy in that.  And our new Walmart tracksuits were proving just the ticket!  Given that we’d not had much “down time”, and a few more electrical issues had just cropped up (sigh!), we promised ourselves a few days respite in either Daytona or St Augustine.  

Flagship Towing to the rescue

Sadly, not everyone makes it though. Possibly hurricane damage?

However, ahead and lurking at New Smyrna Beach, was an infamous shoaled area of the ICW.  Even though we set forth in foggy conditions that morning, we managed to avoid it, so were feeling somewhat smug.  Its twin, half a mile further on, lay in wait though.  This time we became well and truly stuck on an unmarked sand bar in the middle of a supposedly dredged channel.  WJ3’s stern was in 8 feet of water, the bow stuck on 3.  Despite trying all the tricks of the trade to wriggle her off, nothing worked.  Worse, the tide was going out, quickly.  We’d become a shipping hazard in the blink of an eye!!

Then of course, out of the fog, along came the cavalry!  Flagship Towing must have been alerted to our plight and after some negotiations we settled on a fee for his assistance to release WJ3.  Our guy certainly earned his money, that’s for sure…  Finally, we were floating again, then carefully led through the danger zone without further mishap.  What a star!

In case you are wondering…  Yes, we had taken out towing insurance.  But had not yet been able to negotiate a sim card for use in the US, which = NO local phone.  (In Aus, we just about give sim cards away to anyone at Arrivals.)  Apparently, tow companies do not respond to VHF calls and who wants to disturb the Coast Guard?  So here we are in St Augustine, having successfully negotiated the equally hazardous Matanzas Inlet, shopping for a sim card.  Wish us luck!

Bridge of Lions at St Augustine

The Matanzas Inlet is a site famous in America’s pre-history.  In 1565, Spanish forces, led by Pedro Menendez de Aviles, defeated French forces, securing Spanish control of Florida for some 235 years.  Matanzas means “massacre” and we are pleased to say that, expertly negotiated by our Cap’n and charted by AquaMaps & Bob423 (our new charting system now in place), it was NOT another Tow Boat call out for us, this time. 

Ponce de León, the first Governor of Puerto Rico (1508), led in 1513 the first known European expedition of Florida.   Here in St Augustine, along with its remarkable Spanish Fort (1672), is a Fountain of Youth said to be discovered by de León.  GS sipped the waters in good faith in 2009.  After 17 years, she notes, it appears not to be working!  

St Augustine's character Lighthouse

That's the Bridge of Lions through today's fog...

Panacea for the Soul

These guys, a dive boat, wanted fuel too.  Oh oh!  We were squeezed off the dock.
They had better wait in line or we might miss out

After a few days rest, it was back to chores, including refuelling for our next leg to the Bahamas, so opted to refill at South Bank Marina.  To buy fuel, you must check in & out of the country.  Fortunately, this process can be done at the Marina by very friendly officials.  Unfortunately, by the time we were processed, the Fuel Dock hands had finished work for the night.  So, we stayed tied to the dock and had a night at the marina before refuelling and heading back to Sapodilla Bay to re-anchor.  

Then the Cap'n thought of a way to distract them...

Having sworn off overnighters after our previous adventure, we realised that an overnighter would get us to George Town in the Bahamas in two days, rather than taking 5 day sails.  So, let’s get this over with!  Out the Sandbore Channel and over the precipitous east bank, we were on our own again, except for a huge cruise ship, not easy to miss, lit up like an over-decorated Christmas tree.  This year’s weather has certainly put many early season arrivals off. 

Sailing at night by the light of a full moon.  The owl & the Pussycat...

And really calm waters off Long Island & Gun Cay, Bahamas

We rounded Cape Santa Maria, Long Island, in the late afternoon, day 2.  Named after one of Columbus’s ships, there is a monument to Columbus atop this rugged cliff.  It is said the local Lucayan Taino lasted only 15 years after their encounter with the Spaniards.  Others say that there is no evidence of Taino in the Bahamas at all.  So, rather like the differing opinions over Columbus’s actual voyage through the Bahamas, facts are few and stories many.  Still, it gave us something to muse on as we anticipated a night meander through the challenging, reef-lined East cut into George Town.  At least we had the light of a full moon and calm seas to help guide us in.  And the anchor lights of at least 150 other cruising boats

Just a few at anchor off Stocking Island, George Town.

The next morning, it was time to check in, pay for a $300 cruising permit, then after a round of the supermarket with not a lot in it and a lugging a few jerrycans of fuel (no fuel dock in this busy, busy harbour), we headed out for Galliot’s Cut to get onto the Exuma Bank.  Luck was with us and we had an ingoing tide and no wind, so made a dash for Black Point Settlement to see if we could buy engine oil there.  We bought out their supply, then moved on to Shroud Cay.  Sadly, there was no time to do another motor through this extensive mangrove system to look for rays, sharks and turtles.  Early next morning, we crossed the bank to anchor for a very choppy night off Nassau at West Bay, hoping for a weather window to allow us to get to Bullocks Harbour and then Lucaya.  Here we planned a short stay at the Great Bahama Yacht Club.  Here we could shop for groceries, wash clothes and otherwise be presentable on arrival in the US.  Before we could leave however, we had to pay a $75 departure tax. 

Sunset over the Exuma Bank and another night arrival!

Mail Boats (blue hull) bring much needed supplies across the Bahamas. 
Black Point Settlement in the Exumas, now in need of more engine oil...

Tied up in a cosy slip late in the afternoon at Grand Bahama Yacht Club

So, it was with some anticipation, we headed off to cross the Gulf Stream for West Palm Beach.  It was a smooth ride, with both wind and current assisting our passage to, unusually for us, make a daytime entry. 

Not before having a spectacular sunset farewell from GBYC

(For those wondering, travelling rapidly has meant many of our photos are taken at the start or end of the day.  In some places, we haven't even had time to get off the boat, and it's now too cool to swim.  Day photos are mostly open ocean, so totally boring.  We hope to do much better along the ICW.)  

Weather Games & Water Torture

Puerto Real Marina, small but very friendly.  Note overcast skies...

Having bid the hurricane season farewell, we did not expect great swathes of fronts crossing from Alaska, bringing storms, unsettled seas and snow as far south as Texas and Georgia.  Warm waters of the Caribbean were not unaffected, and finding a weather window in this milieu to get us to Turks & Caicos, a three-day exercise, was proving difficult.  Finally, an exasperated Cap’n decided, we could leave now with following winds, or wait for another two weeks.  So, we upped anchor and left.

Our voyage started off well in the protection of the reef, but the Mona Passage, between Puerto Rico and the Dominican Republic, has something of a reputation being a regular conveyor belt of storms into the Caribbean Sea.  Other than increasingly strengthening winds, we were indeed, in a following breeze and making good time.  The problem was, wind and swell continued to increase with the onset of the evening and when the Coast Guard issued a “small ships alert” (winds 18-34kts and seas 7 to 10 feet), we knew we were in for a beating.  It was about this time, that the autopilot relinquished command of the helm, and the Cap’n had to hand steer.  We had come too far to turn back, naturally, although at one point we did consider running back to Luperon in the DR, however continued on for Turks Caicos in the hope that these large banks would offer some shelter, eventually...

After 48 hours at the helm, GS took command (and her head out of a bucket) and learning how not to steer in great loops, managed, with the aid of the compass, to head in the right direction allowing our good Cap’n a few hours sleep.  The seas were starting to ease, whales wintering off the Mouchoir and Silver Banks, had better things to do than disturb us, and we only had to dodge 3 local freighters.  Why is it that we only pass them at night when they’re ablaze with confusing lights!  

The third day saw us in much improved conditions although we were still hand steering.  Our approach to the south Caicos Bank though, would be at night.  Having taken the wider Ship (freighter) Channel over this coral strewn bank once before (in daylight) we felt confident (well, sort of) heading for this channel entrance.  Naturally, an hour out, the engine stopped!!  So, we wallowed about, GS keeping a shipping watch, while the now very, very tired Cap’n managed to get us underway again.  Replacing the fuel filter did the trick.  All of us, WJ3 and crew, had had enough by now. 

Over the precipitous bank, from 2000ft of water into 12 is also unnerving, but we followed the channel by our chart’s magenta line, hoping not to meet any more commercial traffic.   Needless, to say, by this stage, we were both hallucinating.  So, we carefully threaded our way through the commercial anchorage, around a bommie strewn reef, then with huge relief, into Sapodilla Bay, busy with fellow cruisers. 

Next morning, our Cap’n shouted, “There’s no one here.  Where did they go?”  We stood staring at stunning turquoise waters as far as the eye could see, and other than a freighter at the nearby Port, we were the only ones at anchor.  

Sapodilla Bay.  Nobody anchored here for sure

Looking back to the Ship Channel.  No-one there either!  
If your wondering, that's a Starlink receiver, used at anchor.
Gee-whiz technology for cruisers

Diving, No Diving; Marina, No Marina…

Although tempted to stay and explore Puerto Rico further, home was calling and we needed to keep moving.  Having said that, we declared an additional stop at La Parguera.  A party town with miles of fringing reef, had been squeezed into the itinerary.  Cap’n Diver Dan was keen to put the snorkel on and perhaps find a stray lobster or two.

Just how did all that water get into the outboard fuel, hmmm?

After anchoring, and wasting no time, Bruce the Brave was launched and off the Cap’n putted in search of ice.  Perhaps it was to keep our (possible) lobsters fresh.  Who knows?  The outboard had different ideas and there was our Cap’n adrift.  Thankfully, some kind hot-water boaters undertook the rescue mission, and stopped to give him a tow back to WJ3.  

Bruce wasn't going anywhere for now.  The nearest coral reef had a couple of mooring balls free but were they adequate to hold WJ3’s tank-like build?  Also, it was a very popular spot with lots of folks in the water.  Maybe not quite the dive the Cap’n was hankering for.  So, we stayed put near the boat ramp, and after the evening’s “back to the boat ramp” rush hour, we settled down for a very still night.  

La Parguera, quite the busy holiday town and our very calm anchorage

We have failed to mention a rather intriguing observation.  GS had noticed a rather large zeppelin floating above Puerto Rico’s south west corner.  With spy balloons and hovering drones recently seen in American skies, this rather plump floater seemed suspicious.  GS took loads of photos.  Nobody else seemed the least bit concerned.  From our anchorage in La Parguera, it became apparent that the blimp was tethered, and by nightfall, had been pulled back down to earth.  We later found out is indeed a tethered aerostat radar system (eyes in the sky or as someone called it, Fat Albert!) for the Coast Guard.  The Coast Guard certainly needs all the help they can get along this coastline. 

Strange creatures and a blimp in the skies

Cape Rojo, Puerto Rico's scenic south-western point

Next morning and lobster-less, we rounded Cape Rojo with its stately lighthouse and sallied forth squeezing between another extensive reef and the coast, making for Puerto Real.  Christmas bookings and a continuous flow of Caribbean bound vessels meant our chances of a stay in the marina were slim, so we happily stayed on anchor.  Meanwhile, we refuelled, purchased a new battery for the bow thruster, revitalising it, and feasted on lobster caught by local fisherman but expertly cooked by our Cap’n.  All the while, hoping for a weather window suitable to get us, in 3 days, to Turks Caicos.  This was to be our last big “at sea” experience.  No more over-nighters once there.  Famous Last Words!!

Cooking with the Cap'n & one spiney lobster

And all 6 lbs. beautifully cooked too!

In Search of Mythical Creatures

Puerto Rico's southern coast, seen from the safety of a wide channel

Next morning, we left Sun Bay escorted on our way by a small pod of dolphin.  We had a cloudy day but a beautiful, easy sail to Salinas, Puerto Rico.  We came onto the bank through the Boca de Infierno (don’t they have such eloquent names?), wondered about people walking over some of the surrounding reefs, and made our way through a barrier reef/island and mangrove swamp protected channel to an anchorage off Cayo Mata.  

A very calm and pleasant anchorage off Salinas. 
Manatees did not grace us with their presence this time...

These waters are mangrove fringed, murky and shallow.  Dotted with character boats (some are wrecks and it’s a miracle they still float), we squeezed in trying not to have WJ3’s bottom hanging too far into the channel, busy with local boats and jet skis.  We had hoped to catch sight of the elusive manatees (dugongs), with the Cap’n noticing maybe, a nose, a whisker and a splash as it quickly took cover.  No singing, so it couldn’t have been a selkie.  No wonder it fled really, as we looped round and round the bay like loonies, trying to release the main.  Yep, stuck in the mast, yet again.  Isn’t sailing such fun?  “At least,” said our trusty Cap’n, “I’m getting fitter.”  Great… 

Sunset & Cayo Mata behind WJ3

On a mission to keep moving, our next stop was Guánica, a pleasant anchorage we found on our way down last year.  A family, on their way home form a day at the beach, came over and invited us to their New Year’s celebrations.  The father worked part of the year in the Med, delivering newly constructed sailboats to new owners.  It was a lovely gesture from a fellow yachtsman, and certainly confirmed Puerto Rico as the friendliest Caribbean Island we had visited.  Midnight arrived, as did the New Year, and this tiny community exploded in a firework frenzy, all done locally at their own expense, with readily available fireworks.  No, nanny state stuff, just good old common sense, and parental guidance.

Rusting skeletons, like a Mad Max stage setting,
dot the mangrove foreshore in Guanica

(Selkies are mythical sea creatures that can transform into women by shedding their seal skin.  They are also said to have beautiful singing voices according to Scottish & Irish folklore. So perhaps it's a tad too warm for them here in Puerto Rico.)  

Saint Martin: Saint of Broken Boats

Sint Maarten's Bridge across the Lagoon dressed in Christmas Best

Somehow almost 3 weeks vanished.  Simpson Bay Lagoon must be the Caribbean’s answer to the comely bird-women whose charming voices lured ships and sailors to an untimely end.  We didn’t end up on a rocky shore but rather too easily filled the time doing routine chores like food shopping and laundry, including a challenge to spend well above our lifting limit in Island Water World.  And then, there were the inevitable boat repairs.  We found Mike the electrician again, to help with AIS and VHF radio stuff but compensated by making a special effort to dine regularly at Lal’s – for the best Indian curries & garlic naans this side of India.  We marvelled at the gathering crowd of superyachts, then commented on the challenges for them.  It must be de rigueur to have at least 3 bunny ears (satellite domes) in colours to match the hull and a crowd of staff (also dressed to match) to wash acres of windows and keep a stable of water toys in good working order.  Too much work…give me one cranky Cap’n any day!

Yes, we are really leaving Sint Maarten, for now...

Eventually, a suitable weather window opened for a comfortable ride across to the BVI.  We paid our dues, refuelled, and then make the 10.30am bridge lift to once again meet this season’s swell out in the real world.  Our plan was to anchor for the night on the French side in Marigot Bay, then at some ghastly early hour, up anchor and make for a daylight arrival at an anchorage off Prickly Pear Island.  Serious coral reefs lie off Virgin Gorda (the Fat Virgin – thank Columbus for that name!) and are best negotiated in daylight. 

We had some sun but a stiff breeze to traverse the BVI's

We didn’t linger in the BVI, though made a detour to take in the famous Foxies Soggy Dollar Bar on Jost Van Dyke, but didn’t stop.  Not only was a cruise ship anchored off, but the bay was cluttered with mooring balls, reputed to cost 30 to 40 USD per night.  Indeed, the BVI generally has tuned into mooring fields to accommodate growing numbers of charter fleets, mostly catamarans.  Cheap cruisers (like us) now need to search hard for suitable anchorages.

Made the anchorage in Culebra just on dark.  Luckily it wasn't busy!

Culebra, in the Spanish Virgins, and a favourite laid-back anchorage, was in our sights.  Thank goodness, it was true to form and we settled in for a few days to recover from our crossing of the 2300m deep Anegada Passage with it’s mean reputation.  Thankfully, it was a pussy cat for us – this time!

The gathering of the fleet for an after-caroling party. 
It was really nice to see some sun too

We arrived in Culebra’s Ensenada Honda on Christmas Day and were pleased to find it near deserted; just a handful of cruisers and a few local boats on moorings in a calm and well protected spot.  Mr Resident Turtle swam by so we took that as a sign of approval.  After a few days rest, we made (well, changed) plans.  Rather than take the more direct 4-day route from Culebra to Turks Caicos, we’d skim and day hop Vieques and Puerto Rico’s southern coastlines ending in a short stay in Puerto Real Marina with time perhaps to explore ashore (Walmart then old San Juan for GS and West Marine for the Cap’n).  The marina is on Puerto Rico’s west coast and, with easy access through the tricky Mona Passage, we could take a day off our sail plan to Turks Caicos.  That was the theory, anyway!

That settled, we prepped for an early morning departure.  Locals though, had other plans.  It was Sunday and we were woken very early (4.30am) to a rousing chorus of Christmas carols, Latino style, at a boat dock by the foreshore.  Eventually, GS went to find out what was the go!  The dock was filling with local craft all decked out with Christmas lights and decorations.  A party was well underway.  Jet skis buzzed about looking like floating slippers.  At 5.30am, with carols and the hum of boat engines ricocheting round the harbour, the fleet assembled in line and the Christmas Boat Parade took off for a very leisurely, if somewhat unsteady, round of the bay.  Not a neighbour or house seemed to miss out on a personal round of Feliz Navidad (Jose Feliciano from the 1970’s).  So simple, yet such an inspiring event full of neighbourly bonhomie.  

Culebra's 2mile deep harbour is well protected by surrounding reefs. 
Remind me.  Why are we leaving?

As we were now up early anyway, we up-anchored and headed off for Vieques with the sounds of Feliz Navidad ringing in our ears.

(Photos to follow, we are trying to share one working computer.  I knew we should have stopped at Walmart...)

Warmest of Caribbean Wishes

Here we are.  Well into our second week in Sint Maarten, thanks mostly to even more wily winds; today they are gusting, at worst over, 30kts.  Still, there could be worse places to be even though a few nights ago there was an attempted robbery aboard a nearby catamaran.  The lagoon is filling fast as it stretches to fit yet more superyachts.  Others too big to pass through Simpson Bay bridge, cluster in nearby Great Bay, rubbing shoulders with enormous cruise ships visiting Philipsburg, daily offloading passengers to duty-free shops and entertainments like the “pee-pee**” lagoon cruise. ; )  St Bart’s too, is awash with huge hot-water boats.  And NO, the Cap’n is not thinking of upgrading…  Too many things to go wrong!

Christmas is nearly upon us and we are not quite sure exactly where we will be; although it will at least be warm and at this stage, still in the lagoon.  It is hard to move with daily reports of snow storms in the northern US and rather icy temperatures, even in the Chesapeake.  Not encouraging for our ICW leg!  Our plan was not to skate along rivers of ice...  Despite that, we’re sure Santa will manage to find us as we keep jogging along.  He at least, knows just where to find our map & tracker…

Wishing you all the merriest of Christmases, a wonderful fireworks-filled start to the New Year and an opportunity to wave the flag, wave the tongs over a fabulous lamb BBQ and celebrate Australia Day. 

(**We're anchored near the lagoon cruise point where loud announcements are made regarding restroom breaks. "Time for a pee-pee break" in a lilting Caribbean accent!  It's a giggle, every time.)

Bless those Christmas Winds...

Blood Moon & a Jump Up - all a bit spooky in St Lucia

Our last night in Rodney Bay was celebrated toasting a spectacular rise of the Blood Moon and listening to the sizzling Caribbean vibes of the jump-up held every Friday night at Gros Islet.  Just far enough from our anchorage.  We had it all!  Wafts of BBQ (plenty of smoke & tantalizing aromas) all served up with a side of very loud soca & dancehall beats.  About 5.30-ish next morning, those still standing, go home.  So, having given St Lucia our best, it was time to point WJ3’s nose northwards towards Guadeloupe and the Windwards. 

We had especially good weather as we moved up the island chain but wondered if our luck would hold thereafter.  The easterlies met up out of Deshaies, on our first big crossing to Antigua.  We surfed into Falmouth Harbour and settled for an anchorage far from the madding crowd…  Falmouth is now kitted out for superyachts and elite racing; next door, English Harbour for charter boats (mostly catamarans now).  Facilities for simple cruisers are sparse.  Even our Cap’n (never the fashionista) remarked on the change!

HMS Diamond Rock, once dressed as a ship with sails and cannon

In 1804, Diamond Rock, Martinique, was dressed as a ship, manned by 20 English sailors with 4 cannon causing much damage to the French fleet.  It is said though, that the French easily evened the score and took the island back.  Simply by "wrecking" boats on shore laden with casks of rum. "Know your enemy!"

Pointe-à-Pitre, Guadeloupe.  The busiest port in the Caribbean
& an early start for our daily "Shipping News" watch! 

A complete rainbow arc to mark our leaving Deep Bay,
Antigua for the 83 mile sail to St Bart's.

The easterlies remained and GS “pilled” up for the next long leg to St Bart's then on to St Martin.  All went well as we find ourselves in Simpson Bay Lagoon (on the Dutch side) yet again.  Close enough to regularly access takeaways from all nations – Indian curries, Korean spicy soups and French pastries.  Will we ever leave?

Not just yet.  It seems that huge sweeping systems called “Christmas Winds” are now regularly belting across vast swathes of the US, the Bahamas, Turks Caicos and northern Caribbean islands.  Doing their worst by removing our favourable Trades with winds from the north.  Better sit this out...  Pass round those chocolate croissants before they go stale then!!

Photos to follow...baby steps as we're learning the ropes now with Starlink and a brand spanking new (much larger) inverter to power it.  

Mixin' with the really big boys (lots of them) in Simpson Bay Lagoon.
No swell, just chop.  Lots of sleek go-fast boats & jet skis with
too much engine power (and not enough brain power).