Saint Martin: Saint of Broken Boats

Sint Maarten's Bridge across the Lagoon dressed in Christmas Best

Somehow almost 3 weeks vanished.  Simpson Bay Lagoon must be the Caribbean’s answer to the comely bird-women whose charming voices lured ships and sailors to an untimely end.  We didn’t end up on a rocky shore but rather too easily filled the time doing routine chores like food shopping and laundry, including a challenge to spend well above our lifting limit in Island Water World.  And then, there were the inevitable boat repairs.  We found Mike the electrician again, to help with AIS and VHF radio stuff but compensated by making a special effort to dine regularly at Lal’s – for the best Indian curries & garlic naans this side of India.  We marvelled at the gathering crowd of superyachts, then commented on the challenges for them.  It must be de rigueur to have at least 3 bunny ears (satellite domes) in colours to match the hull and a crowd of staff (also dressed to match) to wash acres of windows and keep a stable of water toys in good working order.  Too much work…give me one cranky Cap’n any day!

Yes, we are really leaving Sint Maarten, for now...

Eventually, a suitable weather window opened for a comfortable ride across to the BVI.  We paid our dues, refuelled, and then make the 10.30am bridge lift to once again meet this season’s swell out in the real world.  Our plan was to anchor for the night on the French side in Marigot Bay, then at some ghastly early hour, up anchor and make for a daylight arrival at an anchorage off Prickly Pear Island.  Serious coral reefs lie off Virgin Gorda (the Fat Virgin – thank Columbus for that name!) and are best negotiated in daylight. 

We had some sun but a stiff breeze to traverse the BVI's

We didn’t linger in the BVI, though made a detour to take in the famous Foxies Soggy Dollar Bar on Jost Van Dyke, but didn’t stop.  Not only was a cruise ship anchored off, but the bay was cluttered with mooring balls, reputed to cost 30 to 40 USD per night.  Indeed, the BVI generally has tuned into mooring fields to accommodate growing numbers of charter fleets, mostly catamarans.  Cheap cruisers (like us) now need to search hard for suitable anchorages.

Made the anchorage in Culebra just on dark.  Luckily it wasn't busy!

Culebra, in the Spanish Virgins, and a favourite laid-back anchorage, was in our sights.  Thank goodness, it was true to form and we settled in for a few days to recover from our crossing of the 2300m deep Anegada Passage with it’s mean reputation.  Thankfully, it was a pussy cat for us – this time!

The gathering of the fleet for an after-caroling party. 
It was really nice to see some sun too

We arrived in Culebra’s Ensenada Honda on Christmas Day and were pleased to find it near deserted; just a handful of cruisers and a few local boats on moorings in a calm and well protected spot.  Mr Resident Turtle swam by so we took that as a sign of approval.  After a few days rest, we made (well, changed) plans.  Rather than take the more direct 4-day route from Culebra to Turks Caicos, we’d skim and day hop Vieques and Puerto Rico’s southern coastlines ending in a short stay in Puerto Real Marina with time perhaps to explore ashore (Walmart then old San Juan for GS and West Marine for the Cap’n).  The marina is on Puerto Rico’s west coast and, with easy access through the tricky Mona Passage, we could take a day off our sail plan to Turks Caicos.  That was the theory, anyway!

That settled, we prepped for an early morning departure.  Locals though, had other plans.  It was Sunday and we were woken very early (4.30am) to a rousing chorus of Christmas carols, Latino style, at a boat dock by the foreshore.  Eventually, GS went to find out what was the go!  The dock was filling with local craft all decked out with Christmas lights and decorations.  A party was well underway.  Jet skis buzzed about looking like floating slippers.  At 5.30am, with carols and the hum of boat engines ricocheting round the harbour, the fleet assembled in line and the Christmas Boat Parade took off for a very leisurely, if somewhat unsteady, round of the bay.  Not a neighbour or house seemed to miss out on a personal round of Feliz Navidad (Jose Feliciano from the 1970’s).  So simple, yet such an inspiring event full of neighbourly bonhomie.  

Culebra's 2mile deep harbour is well protected by surrounding reefs. 
Remind me.  Why are we leaving?

As we were now up early anyway, we up-anchored and headed off for Vieques with the sounds of Feliz Navidad ringing in our ears.

(Photos to follow, we are trying to share one working computer.  I knew we should have stopped at Walmart...)

Just Too Many Virgins

Christopher Columbus is said to have named the Virgin Islands in honour of St Ursula and some 11, 000 virgins, who in the 4th century took their own lives rather than submit to being ravaged by invading Huns.  It is without doubt that these islands are fabulous cruising grounds offering safe anchorages, pleasant sailing conditions, beautiful vistas, and clear turquoise waters.  Not to mention a beach bar or several at every stop where the status of virgins is no longer discussed.

At least some nice days to be had in the Virgins!

Having set off from Puerto Patillas (yes, again and at night), we found the sailing conditions on the east coast of PR varied and in parts quite challenging, so decided to make directly for Culebra, in the Spanish Virgins – only a shade over 57nm away.  Sadly, development has not really enhanced what was once a charming stop-over.  However, it still offers a safe harbour that we were (almost) easily able to negotiate for a pre-dawn entrance.  

We settled in for a few days of rest and recuperation at Dewey Harbour then considered a daylight (but still early) jaunt through the US Virgins and British Virgins to a holding anchorage off Virgin Gorda (the fat virgin) giving us a handy springboard for St Martin, some 80nm south and the start of the Leeward Island chain.  The scenery through the US Virgins was delightful, conditions kind, but we had no time to stop.  Our US tourist permits were nearly expired anyway.

WJ3 and her happy crew then tracked over ancient ground.  It was here, in the BVI, that we started our cruising life some 15 years ago.  Development is not rampant, or perhaps it is better planned, so the islands still have that tropical paradise feel.  Charter boats however, have upscaled to modern catamarans and mooring buoys (for a daily fee) populate most anchorages.  There are few quiet bays with only one or two boats in them, even now, in this off-season.

More clear waters in the BVI's

Although tempted to dally in the amazingly clear waters of Gorda Sound, strong winds had been forecast for days ahead, so we made a quick decision to use the current light conditions to make a dash for St Martin.  “Well, perhaps we’ll stop in the BVI next time!” said GS.  

And so it was that we arrived in Marigot Bay late that night, after yet another long day’s mostly motoring.  Here, perhaps we could get our mast and main sail seen to so that at least, in future, we might do a little less motoring!  We've made it to the Caribbean...yeah!  Did we happen to mention those wonderful French patisseries here?  

And finally, St Martin reveals itself the morning after a late arrival in Marigot Bay
Yes, were had thrown out the hook just a bit far off the anchorage area...