Wednesday, May 31, 2023

Just Too Many Virgins

Christopher Columbus is said to have named the Virgin Islands in honour of St Ursula and some 11, 000 virgins, who in the 4th century took their own lives rather than submit to being ravaged by invading Huns.  It is without doubt that these islands are fabulous cruising grounds offering safe anchorages, pleasant sailing conditions, beautiful vistas, and clear turquoise waters.  Not to mention a beach bar or several at every stop where the status of virgins is no longer discussed.

At least some nice days to be had in the Virgins!
Having set off from Puerto Patillas (yes, again and at night), we found the sailing conditions on the east coast of PR varied and in parts quite challenging, so decided to make directly for Culebra, in the Spanish Virgins – only a shade over 57nm away.  Sadly, development has not really enhanced what was once a charming stop-over.  However, it still offers a safe harbour that we were (almost) easily able to negotiate for a pre-dawn entrance.  

We settled in for a few days of rest and recuperation at Dewey Harbour then considered a daylight (but still early) jaunt through the US Virgins and British Virgins to a holding anchorage off Virgin Gorda (the fat virgin) giving us a handy springboard for St Martin, some 80nm south and the start of the Leeward Island chain.  The scenery through the US Virgins was delightful, conditions kind, but we had no time to stop.  Our US tourist permits were nearly expired anyway.

WJ3 and her happy crew then tracked over ancient ground.  It was here, in the BVI, that we started our cruising life some 15 years ago.  Development is not rampant, or perhaps it is better planned, so the islands still have that tropical paradise feel.  Charter boats however, have upscaled to modern catamarans and mooring buoys (for a daily fee) populate most anchorages.  There are few quiet bays with only one or two boats in them, even now, in this off-season.

More clear waters in the BVI's
Although tempted to dally in the amazingly clear waters of Gorda Sound, strong winds had been forecast for days ahead, so we made a quick decision to use the current light conditions to make a dash for St Martin.  “Well, perhaps we’ll stop in the BVI next time!” said GS.  

And so it was that we arrived in Marigot Bay late that night, after yet another long day’s mostly motoring.  Here, perhaps we could get our mast and main sail seen to so that at least, in future, we might do a little less motoring!  We've made it to the Caribbean...yeah!  Did we happen to mention those wonderful French patisseries here?  

And finally, St Martin reveals itself the morning after a late arrival in Marigot Bay
Yes, were had thrown out the hook just a bit far off the anchorage area... 

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