Mayhem to Magic & Back Again

Somehow, we managed to locate a new outboard at a West Marine in North Palm Beach.  It was then time to make a quick dash for the marina at West Palm to pick up Ingrid & Squiz.  We think they were having a terrible time, left lonesome at the Tiki Bar (forced into a daiquiri tasting, perhaps?).  

Hey guys, come back!  We think you're on the wrong boat!!

The anchorage at WPB was appalling – washing machine conditions and certainly not the kind of “first time” experience you want for guests.  Finally, the Cap’n spotted a break in the weather (meaning a very early, early morning start) to make for West End, off Grand Bahama.  Indeed, the weather held and the crossing was so good, we kept going to Lucaya (near Freeport) and had a night at the welcoming Grand Bahama Yacht Club.  

The Exumas are so tiny they don't even rate a small dot on this map

Next day, with conditions holding, we moved on to Bullocks Harbour in the Berry Islands. Just for the heck of it, we found a rather cloudy blue hole to snorkel off Rat Cay.  Blue holes are sink holes in limestone islands or coral reefs and can be quite large and deep.  It felt eerie not to see the sea floor under us, but we did have company.  A school of inquisitive fish watched our every move.  We also didn’t have the anchorage to ourselves.  Just as the ICW had droves of boaters hanging about for a break in the weather, so too here, where many were also taking the opportunity to stage for a northward sail.  

This NASA satellite photo clearly shows the extent of the Bahamas Banks
and their shallow waters. (As compared to the Map of the Bahamas Islands above)

Rather than test the weather and sail outside (east) around the Berries, we decided to delicately pick our way across the shallow, coral strewn Great Bahama Bank, then pick up the magenta line for Chubb Cay.  We didn’t quite make it.  After a lovely sail, the engine refused to start, so the Cap’n and Mr Squiz (now called First Mate Squid) worked in choppy conditions for a couple of hours to get us underway again.  “Don’t turn that #@$&**% engine again off,” we all cried. “Make for the nearest landfall.  We want to get off!”  And so it was that we settled into a very swelly anchorage at Chubb Cay, then paid an enormous impost to have access to the island’s luxurious facilities.  I believe the Chubb Cay resort did serve excellent Mango Daiquiris from an infinity pool sunken bar.  Even better, their technicians managed to fix WJ3’s broken engine bit so we were able to move on to Nassau’s West Bay anchorage the next day.  The wind was, of course, on the nose and yes, the engine conked out again and we had to sail into the anchorage, pretending to be keen (sailing) purists. 

Whilst in this up-market neighbourhood, our guests sought the opportunity to check out the neighbours.  Julio Iglesias among them.  Adventures never-ending.  West Bay also offered an excellent and sheltered alternative to getting on the Exuma Bank.  The trip across to Norman’s Cay was easy and rather pleasant given our recent experiences, so we turned towards Shroud Cay (situated in the Exuma Land & Sea Park).  This delightful cay is no longer the remote Bahamas.  We anchored beyond a mooring field with many, many others.  Jet boats sped by, taking resort guests out for the quintessential Exuma, or Far Bahama, experience. 

Heading off to explore the mangrove creeks on Shroud Cay

Taking the fast ride out to the Atlantic at Mangrove Creek inlet, Shroud Cay

Even Paradise comes with a few surprise packages...  A wayward waterspout cames hurtling past our mooring field at Warderick Wells

After Shroud, we made an early move for Warderick Wells, hoping to snag a mooring in this peaceful spot.  Lucky us, we were given the last available mooring, #9.  Our entrance was less than graceful, having gone aground (temporarily) on the assumption that our Navionics charts were updated and correct.  Nope!  Not even close.  Finally, the Cap’n moved us off the sand bar and into deeper water.  We then took advantage of great weather to explore the island, snorkel, and meet the locals, huge iguanas (impersonating dragons?), turtles, rays and toothy barracudas.  

Welcomed back to Warderick Wells, mooring #9, by the locals

WJ3 & crew hangin' at Warderick Wells again 

Squiz led us on an island route march, looking serious in his Bunnings hat...

Yes, we found the blowhole at Warderick Wells.

Then it was time to meet the famous swimming pigs at Big Majors Cay.  The pigs have gone commercial and now have minders charging folks $10 to feed them.  Of course, the Jet Boats crowded in.  Early one morning, Squiz swam over and proceeded to exercise on their beach.  Like true Hollywood Glamour Queens, these porkers were determined to not show any interest in him or his showing off.  Staniel Cay was busier than Pitt Street and sadly, the weather & tide was against us for a snorkel over Thunderbolt’s Rock.  So, we moved on for Galliots Cut to wait the best time & tide for an easy exit out over the Cut, and gain an early start for the run to Georgetown.

Nurse sharks gather in great expectation near the fisherman's
cleaning bay on Staniel Cay

Georgetown is the centre of the universe for a wintering 300 to 400 sailboats & hot water boats of all shapes and sizes for at least 3 to 4 months each year.  Despite this, it is necessary to lug and dingy over jerry cans of fuel and water to replenish supplies on your boat.  I’d hate to see how those really big powerboats manage.  Still, we ate local and shopped for supplies too!  Yet, somehow and despite it all, Georgetown survives and manages to keep its Caribbean vibe.  

Trying out the local specials, conch salad & conch fritters. 
Lets not forget rum infused Painkillers!

Bahamian vibe in this colourful mural, Georgetown