Panacea for the Soul

These guys, a dive boat, wanted fuel too.  Oh oh!  We were squeezed off the dock.
They had better wait in line or we might miss out

After a few days rest, it was back to chores, including refuelling for our next leg to the Bahamas, so opted to refill at South Bank Marina.  To buy fuel, you must check in & out of the country.  Fortunately, this process can be done at the Marina by very friendly officials.  Unfortunately, by the time we were processed, the Fuel Dock hands had finished work for the night.  So, we stayed tied to the dock and had a night at the marina before refuelling and heading back to Sapodilla Bay to re-anchor.  

Then the Cap'n thought of a way to distract them...

Having sworn off overnighters after our previous adventure, we realised that an overnighter would get us to George Town in the Bahamas in two days, rather than taking 5 day sails.  So, let’s get this over with!  Out the Sandbore Channel and over the precipitous east bank, we were on our own again, except for a huge cruise ship, not easy to miss, lit up like an over-decorated Christmas tree.  This year’s weather has certainly put many early season arrivals off. 

Sailing at night by the light of a full moon.  The owl & the Pussycat...

And really calm waters off Long Island & Gun Cay, Bahamas

We rounded Cape Santa Maria, Long Island, in the late afternoon, day 2.  Named after one of Columbus’s ships, there is a monument to Columbus atop this rugged cliff.  It is said the local Lucayan Taino lasted only 15 years after their encounter with the Spaniards.  Others say that there is no evidence of Taino in the Bahamas at all.  So, rather like the differing opinions over Columbus’s actual voyage through the Bahamas, facts are few and stories many.  Still, it gave us something to muse on as we anticipated a night meander through the challenging, reef-lined East cut into George Town.  At least we had the light of a full moon and calm seas to help guide us in.  And the anchor lights of at least 150 other cruising boats

Just a few at anchor off Stocking Island, George Town.

The next morning, it was time to check in, pay for a $300 cruising permit, then after a round of the supermarket with not a lot in it and a lugging a few jerrycans of fuel (no fuel dock in this busy, busy harbour), we headed out for Galliot’s Cut to get onto the Exuma Bank.  Luck was with us and we had an ingoing tide and no wind, so made a dash for Black Point Settlement to see if we could buy engine oil there.  We bought out their supply, then moved on to Shroud Cay.  Sadly, there was no time to do another motor through this extensive mangrove system to look for rays, sharks and turtles.  Early next morning, we crossed the bank to anchor for a very choppy night off Nassau at West Bay, hoping for a weather window to allow us to get to Bullocks Harbour and then Lucaya.  Here we planned a short stay at the Great Bahama Yacht Club.  Here we could shop for groceries, wash clothes and otherwise be presentable on arrival in the US.  Before we could leave however, we had to pay a $75 departure tax. 

Sunset over the Exuma Bank and another night arrival!

Mail Boats (blue hull) bring much needed supplies across the Bahamas. 
Black Point Settlement in the Exumas, now in need of more engine oil...

Tied up in a cosy slip late in the afternoon at Grand Bahama Yacht Club

So, it was with some anticipation, we headed off to cross the Gulf Stream for West Palm Beach.  It was a smooth ride, with both wind and current assisting our passage to, unusually for us, make a daytime entry. 

Not before having a spectacular sunset farewell from GBYC

(For those wondering, travelling rapidly has meant many of our photos are taken at the start or end of the day.  In some places, we haven't even had time to get off the boat, and it's now too cool to swim.  Day photos are mostly open ocean, so totally boring.  We hope to do much better along the ICW.)  

Everyone has Comms...Until they Don't

Shroud Cay, Bahamas - brilliant, clear waters & lots of mischievous turtles! 

Greetings all from the beautiful clear waters of Turks Caicos.  We have just spent the better part of a day trying to clear out.  You know, one of those simple, easy to use online forms.  Every boat has wifi...doesn't it?  Hell no, and certainly not us. We (foreigners) couldn't even get a sim card for US phone services, let alone wifi.  

Anyway, it is what it is and we make do with cafe and marina wifi at infrequent stops along the way.  Updating the blog?  No chance just yet.  Your best source of "Where's Windjammer?" will be our Map and Tracker - a tab at the top of the blog that links you to a vague map covered in marching ants.  Entries will be made on it when we find somewhere to stop, and somewhere with wifi.

We find this situation highly amusing, if only to compare ourselves to the locals who have phones forever in their faces. 

Ingrid & Squiz, our guests for the Bahama Cruise segment, have just left for the Turks & Caicos airport so we will now have to manage on our own for a bit.  We also seem to be the only “crazy” ones heading south and the weather has been somewhat interesting so far this year… Next stop is Saint Martin, our longest sail yet (4-6 days straight) and naturally in winds coming from the direction that we are headed.  

Of course we needed a drink to steady our fraying nerves!
(WJ3 docked below in the Southside Marina)

Gone for Bush Crack

We motored out of Georgetown using the challenging North Rocks exit, emboldened by a newly installed boat starter battery.  The turn to Rum Cay, our next anchorage though, was a bash into the wind.  Another day and another bash on the nose saw us then head for Atwood Harbour on Acklins Island with it’s challenging reef and an alarming night arrival.  At least it was calm in the morning and we enjoyed a swim in stunning, crystal clear waters.  

Atwood Harbour, Acklins & Squiz off for an early morning swim to the beach

The final Bahamas leg was to Abrahams Bay on Mayaguana where showing no relief, the wind found our nose.  So no sailing and no chance to dive on the coral bommies or check up on friendly Bazza Barracuda and Steve Ray then.  With one last heave ho, we crashed forth into the wind and headed south.  Finally, the Sandbore Channel took us straight into Sapodilla Bay and a less than calm, but none-the-less welcome anchorage for the night.  Turks & Caicos, we have arrived!

WJ3 all tucked up in South Side Marina, Providenciales, Turks & Caicos.

Other women it seems, still find the Cap'n attractive... 
Blackie insisting on a big hug & hopes of sharing a dinner or two

It was too late to try the challenging skinny and coral-scattered route to the South Side Marina.  Next morning then, on a rising tide we set forth, but still bumped at the green marker on our way in.  The depth measured 4.5 ft; our keel sits at 5.5ft. What?...How?  

Squiz enjoying the last of his Bush Crack (a Bahamian beer)

Finally, we were in a calm and sunny marina, although tying up to the dock was a rather less than gracious experience.  Bob & his four-legged side-kick, Miss Maddie and her mate, Blackie, were still in residence but no longer the owners.  Bob continues to run the Bar so we made very good use of it, especially after many, many days of home-cooked meals.  Mind you, Ingrid always cooked up a storm on-board, even when those nasty, rough seas caused some tummies to blanch.  Our guests were always good humoured, helpful and easy company, despite the rather awful weather conditions and long days of motoring, so we were sorry to bid them farewell.  

Fun on the high seas?  Perhaps better in a dinghy scooting through the cays.

The famous & colourful conch (said "conk"). It tastes like abalone.

Taking unused conch out for an overnight swim
at the beachside restaurant, De Conch Shack, Provo

Too soon, it was time for us to continue our journey down de islands…

Mayhem to Magic & Back Again

Somehow, we managed to locate a new outboard at a West Marine in North Palm Beach.  It was then time to make a quick dash for the marina at West Palm to pick up Ingrid & Squiz.  We think they were having a terrible time, left lonesome at the Tiki Bar (forced into a daiquiri tasting, perhaps?).  

Hey guys, come back!  We think you're on the wrong boat!!

The anchorage at WPB was appalling – washing machine conditions and certainly not the kind of “first time” experience you want for guests.  Finally, the Cap’n spotted a break in the weather (meaning a very early, early morning start) to make for West End, off Grand Bahama.  Indeed, the weather held and the crossing was so good, we kept going to Lucaya (near Freeport) and had a night at the welcoming Grand Bahama Yacht Club.  

The Exumas are so tiny they don't even rate a small dot on this map

Next day, with conditions holding, we moved on to Bullocks Harbour in the Berry Islands. Just for the heck of it, we found a rather cloudy blue hole to snorkel off Rat Cay.  Blue holes are sink holes in limestone islands or coral reefs and can be quite large and deep.  It felt eerie not to see the sea floor under us, but we did have company.  A school of inquisitive fish watched our every move.  We also didn’t have the anchorage to ourselves.  Just as the ICW had droves of boaters hanging about for a break in the weather, so too here, where many were also taking the opportunity to stage for a northward sail.  

This NASA satellite photo clearly shows the extent of the Bahamas Banks
and their shallow waters. (As compared to the Map of the Bahamas Islands above)

Rather than test the weather and sail outside (east) around the Berries, we decided to delicately pick our way across the shallow, coral strewn Great Bahama Bank, then pick up the magenta line for Chubb Cay.  We didn’t quite make it.  After a lovely sail, the engine refused to start, so the Cap’n and Mr Squiz (now called First Mate Squid) worked in choppy conditions for a couple of hours to get us underway again.  “Don’t turn that #@$&**% engine again off,” we all cried. “Make for the nearest landfall.  We want to get off!”  And so it was that we settled into a very swelly anchorage at Chubb Cay, then paid an enormous impost to have access to the island’s luxurious facilities.  I believe the Chubb Cay resort did serve excellent Mango Daiquiris from an infinity pool sunken bar.  Even better, their technicians managed to fix WJ3’s broken engine bit so we were able to move on to Nassau’s West Bay anchorage the next day.  The wind was, of course, on the nose and yes, the engine conked out again and we had to sail into the anchorage, pretending to be keen (sailing) purists. 

Whilst in this up-market neighbourhood, our guests sought the opportunity to check out the neighbours.  Julio Iglesias among them.  Adventures never-ending.  West Bay also offered an excellent and sheltered alternative to getting on the Exuma Bank.  The trip across to Norman’s Cay was easy and rather pleasant given our recent experiences, so we turned towards Shroud Cay (situated in the Exuma Land & Sea Park).  This delightful cay is no longer the remote Bahamas.  We anchored beyond a mooring field with many, many others.  Jet boats sped by, taking resort guests out for the quintessential Exuma, or Far Bahama, experience. 

Heading off to explore the mangrove creeks on Shroud Cay

Taking the fast ride out to the Atlantic at Mangrove Creek inlet, Shroud Cay

Even Paradise comes with a few surprise packages...  A wayward waterspout cames hurtling past our mooring field at Warderick Wells

After Shroud, we made an early move for Warderick Wells, hoping to snag a mooring in this peaceful spot.  Lucky us, we were given the last available mooring, #9.  Our entrance was less than graceful, having gone aground (temporarily) on the assumption that our Navionics charts were updated and correct.  Nope!  Not even close.  Finally, the Cap’n moved us off the sand bar and into deeper water.  We then took advantage of great weather to explore the island, snorkel, and meet the locals, huge iguanas (impersonating dragons?), turtles, rays and toothy barracudas.  

Welcomed back to Warderick Wells, mooring #9, by the locals

WJ3 & crew hangin' at Warderick Wells again 

Squiz led us on an island route march, looking serious in his Bunnings hat...

Yes, we found the blowhole at Warderick Wells.

Then it was time to meet the famous swimming pigs at Big Majors Cay.  The pigs have gone commercial and now have minders charging folks $10 to feed them.  Of course, the Jet Boats crowded in.  Early one morning, Squiz swam over and proceeded to exercise on their beach.  Like true Hollywood Glamour Queens, these porkers were determined to not show any interest in him or his showing off.  Staniel Cay was busier than Pitt Street and sadly, the weather & tide was against us for a snorkel over Thunderbolt’s Rock.  So, we moved on for Galliots Cut to wait the best time & tide for an easy exit out over the Cut, and gain an early start for the run to Georgetown.

Nurse sharks gather in great expectation near the fisherman's
cleaning bay on Staniel Cay

Georgetown is the centre of the universe for a wintering 300 to 400 sailboats & hot water boats of all shapes and sizes for at least 3 to 4 months each year.  Despite this, it is necessary to lug and dingy over jerry cans of fuel and water to replenish supplies on your boat.  I’d hate to see how those really big powerboats manage.  Still, we ate local and shopped for supplies too!  Yet, somehow and despite it all, Georgetown survives and manages to keep its Caribbean vibe.  

Trying out the local specials, conch salad & conch fritters. 
Lets not forget rum infused Painkillers!

Bahamian vibe in this colourful mural, Georgetown

Everyone has a Plan until…

Some wise soul spoke of (cruising) plans written in sand.  And, here we are, days out from flying off to Deltaville Boatyard amid the chaos and pandemonium that usually occurs before each sailing season.  However, perhaps this year’s winds changed or the tide simply went out.  We, like many others, have been away from the cruising scene.  For us, it’s been 3 long years, and much has changed – some things, dramatically.  So, here we are, deciding at the last minute to modify our current plan; it just had to happen!  It might seem no big deal, but actually, it is.

At some point during isolation, in a moment of madness, we decided that WJ3 should come home; it would be easier to manage her within the confines of our own country.  Who then, doesn’t want to cruise the South Pacific and we had no need to rush.  So, plans were made to make for Panama in 2023.

Finding another quiet spot in the Bahamas

Reality hit once we began to consider what was necessary to achieve this goal and to consider the usual paperwork, permits, not insignificant costs and the need to have WJ3 (and ourselves) in tip-top condition for an ocean crossing.  We began to feel we were climbing a mountain, but only because it was there.  We also began to ask ourselves many questions and to challenge choices.

Finally, this week, we called time out to consider all options and motivations rather than focus attention just on this, the famous Pacific milk run.  Our all-hands-on-the-table options list went like this:

1.    Stay on the United States east coast & island hop the Caribbean

2.    Head for Panama (our existing stage-the-Pacific-at-a-snail-pace plan)

3.    Cross the Pacific to Tahiti (haul out) then head home another season

4.    Cross the Atlantic back to the Med or perhaps the UK

5.    Ship home or even to Asia (Thailand or Malaysia)

6.    Sell up

Our decision was reached, again & again.  Finally though, the Galley Slave is off stress meds and no longer needs to stockpile seasick tablets.  Our Cap’n will continue his dream of spending 6 months of each year devoted to his other woman.  And just now, he’s just ordered a spanking new e-bike to be delivered to Deltaville.  A resounding win-win for all.

Well, you'll be pleased to know that the US option came up trumps (excuse this feeble attempt at humour!)…  Travel in the US is easy; there are so many sailing options that we’re spoilt for choice.  Land travel is readily available too and we will have the opportunity to travel further afield, much like we did in Europe with organised tours at our fingertips.  Perhaps Machu Picchu will open again soon?  We also like being away and being overseas means that we really will spend time sailing WJ3. 

Now we are settled (sigh!), we can plan visas to get back into the US.  In the meantime, we will take a leisurely cruise down the Caribbean to Trinidad where we will haul for this year.  The Cap’n is already salivating at the thought of Trinidad street food (roti, doubles, bake & shark, hmmm) just too good to miss!  Next year we’ll head back to our favourite Deltaville boatyard. 

So, perhaps we’ll see you in the Caribbean this year?

Mike Tyson (2012) is quoted as saying “Everyone has a plan until they get punched in the mouth.”  Some days it just feels like it...

Exuma Cays Land & Sea Park - 112,640 acres to explore... (That's WJ3 behind the navy blue sailboat!)
Squiz, Ingrid are you excited yet??

Jus Keep Dem Knees in Tight

X-ing File #5_Antigua to Bahamas (perhaps) continues

Warderick Wells to Settlement Point

From Warderick Wells we moved north to Highbourne Cay, home of an expensive resort and marina.  We wanted an internet hit and thankfully they also had a large BaTel tower, so we parked as close as we could, hoping especially to check the weather.  Highbourne is also a good stepping off place for crossing the Exuma Bank to the bright & brassy lights of Nassau, or for us, an overnighter to Settlement Point to wait the weather for our leap across the Gulf Stream. 

A short weather opportunity gave us no time to call in and feed the iguanas on Allens Cay, so we hurried on over the banks in fine style, just making the Old Bahama Bay Marina before the weather got too wild.  Crossing the Gulf Stream is a bit of an art and picking the “right” day essential to a safe arrival.  The Gulf Stream moves north with some force and winds blowing against it can raise challenging waves, known locally as elephants.  We’ll be in touch – on the other side….

So, it's farewell to the Caribbean and goodbye Bahamas, for now at least!

Take a mooring and explore the clear waters of  Warderick Wells

Dine local style in Antigua 

Park your dinghy in crystal clear water on the Exuma Banks

No Boat?  Then stay in cute water-side cabins on Staniel Cay.  

Doin’ The Rock, Rock Lobster

X-ing File #5_Antigua to Bahamas (perhaps) continues…

Warderick Wells, Exumas Land & Sea Park

In 1958, an area of 176 sq miles was set aside by the Bahamian government as a protected area for both marine life and wildlife.  Warderick Wells, one small cay in this area, offers convenient moorings in the safety of the the park, and luckily for us, one in a great spot next to a recommended dive/snorkel site. 

Finally, having fun at last!!

Seduced by the area’s beauty, we stayed for three nights, occupying ourselves with snorkelling trips, using our dive camera for the first time and even taking a walk on a section of the trail around the cay.  We found deep "wells" in rock formations where fresh water collects. It seems pirates of old did not miss this opportunity.  As did Loyalist settlers. (Loyalists (18th c) remained loyal to Britain, so were ousted from Florida to a lonely life on outlying Bahamas Cays.)  

Again, rather than write more, here’s a few (quite a few...) photos of our visit and another "Things to do List":

#1. Dive off the back of your boat (mooring #16) to meet Bazza, the barracuda and his equally nosey buddies;

Bazza escorted us all the way back to the boat...with his alarming grin

#2. Dive the coral bommies off Emerald Rock; scare yourself with a reef shark encounter;

GS had a close & personal shark experience...much larger than he looks

#3. Consider Bahamas History.  Walk to high point, Boo Boo Hill and listen for the ghosts of shipwrecked souls singing hymns (only at night).  Visit Loyalist ruins and spare a thought for these deserted souls too.

The Cay is home to stomatolites, flat gray reefs, the oldest form of life
on earth at 3.5 billion years old.  Only discovered in 1983.

#4. Spot a Hutia (not a one!) They're very shy.

Curly-tailed lizards were enjoying the sunshine however.

#5. Walk the Causeway Bridge and look for baby rays;

#6. Appreciate the scenery surrounding the Park Office and the mooring area.  It's divine.

A large ray often swam between our moorings too!