Flitting across Germany

Munich, Germany


Green, green as far as the eye could see

Yes, we’d managed to save a few days on our Schengen schedule – mere crumbs in the basket – but felt it was important to cover a bit more of Germany than just Berlin where our Intrepid tour officially ended.  This of course was a WJ3 thing; going against many, many recommendations to stay in Berlin – being that it capably manifests all things for all people.  We made do with a few last minute regrets at not having visited other highly recommended sites (such as the Pergamon Museum) and boarded our ICE speeding bullet (actually it was a train) hoping we’d made the right choices. 

After reading heaps about “Things NOT to miss in Germany” several plans had been concocted.  We wanted to be realistic about what we could cover in the remaining 6 days.  Our airline offered more flights with better connection times to get home from Frankfurt and as we had friends in the area, fixed it as our departure point.  Also, we had been on the move constantly for our 29 day tour and now wanted to stay put with no packing.  We were also looking for a city from which to access some of Germany’s best.  After all, our chances of going back are pretty slim.

Hauptbahnhof in Berlin - a very modern central train station
but looking a bit grim on a wet day

Munich was agreed as our best option because it allowed access to a variety of places.  We could have continued our affair with train travel – it’s such a fantastic way to see Europe but, in the end we chose day excursions on buses.  Someone else drove, excellent guides filled us in on itinerary fine-points, we covered all our choices, and with cunning planning, the bus departure point was very, very close to our hotel.  So, we’d signed up to cover Rothenburg on the Romantic Road, Hitler’s Eagles Nest in the Alps, and Mad Ludwig’s Neuschwanstein Castle.  On our final day, we wanted to visit the Dachau Concentration Camp on a self-guided tour then catch an early afternoon train to Frankfurt.  Long days, but absolutely worth the planning effort!

In Aus, we had dilly-dallied about buying Rail Passes, and then didn’t.  In the end, with only 2 intercity connections, and on advice of the very helpful Deutsche Bahn staff at main stations, we’d purchased and saved heaps with 2^nd class seats and “purchase ahead, no refund” special offers.  Our hotel in Munich provided us with local fares (our accommodation deal) and the fares to Dachau offered cheaper rates for couples.  So trains taken care of, yeah!  The only grumble we had was Wi-Fi.  In every other country we’d travelled this year, free Wi-Fi was part and parcel of our stay or ride - buses, trains & ferries.  Deutsche Bahn (with its significantly higher fares – meow!) wanted passengers to pay for use – unless you travelled first class, of course! 

Left: The ICE travelled at speeds of over 240km/h (it can go to 300!); snails pace was a mere 110km/h.  Photos we took of beautiful scenery were mostly just blurs : ) 

Petty grumbles aside, we wanted to share our travel planning thoughts because it’s quite possible to travel easily under your own steam through Germany.  There are fantastic road & rail links, convenient accommodations and well-serviced tourist sites with lots of facilities.  You can drive on the autobahn doing “the ton” or amble along delightful country roads on a bicycle.  And you can do it all on your own….

Three Ways to See Berlin_# Three

#3_Under the Microscope

Documentation Centre in the late evening light

With only a few hours left, now was the time to decide on what sites were “important” for us to cover before leaving Berlin.  Alighting at the Brandenburg Gate, we made our way back to the Topography of Terror (for him) and thankfully (for her) just next door to the Martin Gropius Bau, featuring artworks from the vast private collection of Reinhold Würth.

The Topography of Terror considers the worst of the Third Reich on the site of buildings once used as the headquarters by SS and Gestapo during the Nazi regime (1933 to 1945).  The site comprises of a section of the wall, relatively graffiti free, a trench and once underground Gestapo cellars where prisoners were interrogated, tortured and executed, a pavilion or documentation centre and park.  Models, photos and text displayed both inside and out of the museum scrutinise the horror and terror that shadowed over Europe. 

Martin Gropius Bau

Spectacular column bases

Martin Gropius Bau is a sumptuous pink confection of neo-classicism thankfully saved from the ruins of Berlin’s bombing (WW2) and restored to its former glory.  Although somewhat at odds against the sparse and minimalistic architecture of the Topography of Terror next door, it glows with positivism.  This delightful building was designed by architect Martin Gropius (family to Walter of Bauhaus fame) and completed in 1881 to house an Arts and Crafts museum.  Arts & Crafts was a counter-movement to the rigours of the Industrial Revolution that swept Europe.  It was at its peak between 1880 to 1910 with William Morris one of its better known advocates.  The gallery now offers space for touring exhibitions and the banner that caught GS’s eye “From Hockney to Holbein” led her to discover an exhibition even more incredible than she imagined.

Remembering the building's Arts & Crafts background on the walls

The exhibition is made up from the art collection of just one man, Reinhold Würth, who owns one of the largest private collections in Europe.  He has, over the years since 1964 gathered more than 16,800 pieces that range from medieval, to post-war and modern-day art.  Not only is the collection vast but Würth has managed to acquire pieces from internationally known and respected masters of their genre. It was definitely time to strap on the roller skates as the Gropius Bau advised the showing covered a selection of 435 art works through 27 rooms over 5,000 square meters. (No photos allowed but get a really good idea from this youtube vid link.  Remember, it is modern art...) This exhibition remains open until January 10, 2016.  Give yourself more than 2 hours to digest it!

A group farewell dinner at a delightful restaurant in Friedrichshain heralded the end of our oh so short stay in Berlin and 29 days of togetherness for the group.  No more late nights sharing loud music and shots with the uni crowd in Berlin for us.  We had a train to catch and a promise of beers to sample – it was countdown to the Oktoberfest in Munich!

Three Ways to See Berlin_# Two

#2_Take the BIG Bus Ride

A Trabi (GDR era Trabant) - that's a car to you & me...

With rain threatening (not more!) we decided it was the perfect day for a bus ride (no walking and undercover too) so headed off by train to the huge Hauptbahnhof (main train station).  Whilst there, we could do a recce for our next day’s train to Munich - two birds and all that! 

After signing up for two, two-hour tours, we just made the “green” Wall & Lifestyle route.  This essentially took us around north Berlin or the former East Berlin and almost back to our hotel at Friedrichshain. 

Now, are you keeping up?  We covered everything from former grand esplanades to abandoned bunkers.  Rather than write up realms on each and every site, we’ve include a few of the better photos, though there aren't many!

Football anyone?

Back at the Huaptbahnhof, we waited patiently for the “red” route, a tour of the traditional Berlin city sites and a drive through the Tiergarten, a huge central park with the zoo.  These rides made the huge effort of getting around this city in a short time, pleasurable.  

Just to finish up, our room had the words in German, “Our language is also our history” by the famous Brothers Grimm painted (nicely) on the wall.  Just so you know, not all German placenames on English maps are translated into English.  There are few easy options for travellers with limited language skills, so life becomes an immersion into the real Germany.  Whilst at times frustrating, it also presents as a wonderful opportunity to "learn on the run".  Mind you, this was our 13^th country for the year (so easy to do in Europe), so I think we could be forgiven for a little cultural fatigue.




 

 

Look closely to see portraits
painted on this building

We seem to have concentrated
on photographing old buildings

Bears are big in Berlin,
they crop up everywhere!

Crossing the bridge to Museum Island

Three Ways to See Berlin_# One

#1_The Orientation Walk

101 Uses for the Berlin Wall

More Wall Art

All too soon it was time for our train ride to Berlin.  We were happy.  Trains came with comfy seats, power outlets and included wifi…brilliant!  It didn’t take too long to realize though, that photos taken from a train travelling at the speed of light, are never going to be wonderful.  Still, it was a good time to take stock of our journey so far, give GS’s mouse an opportunity to escape (our technology woes continue!) and to work on our post-tour tour of Germany.

East Side Gallery on a stretch of Inner Wall

Our hotel was located in Friedrichshain, close enough to trains and trams to get us round the many top sights of Berlin.  Although considered a trendy boho area, the walk to the station required a dash past some locals who neither knew nor cared about this designation.  One young couple begged pleadingly for coins with a cup curiously marked (in bold letters) “F*** You”; another meowed for attention.  The area is also home to other contrasts.  The East Side Gallery, a stretch of the Berlin wall, is covered in memorable (some more than others!) artwork and the Oberbaumbrucke (1896), a stunning bridge with a confection of towers, turrets, archways and crenulated walls, typifies romantic Germany.

Obviously a tourist hot-spot despite the rain

Before & After photos of the Brandenburg Gate

 

 

Getting lost in the Holocaust Memorial

An Orientation Walk however, showed us another side to Berlin – that is, before a storm sent us scrambling.  We’d arrived at Brandenburg Gate too busy listening and taking photos to notice ominous dark clouds building quickly behind.  A short stop under the Gate revealed that it was a mere decorative trifle (ie didn’t offer much cover), so we hot footed it past the labyrinthine Holocaust Memorial to shelter at a snack bar.  We waited for the weather to clear (ever so hopeful!) sampling local beer & wines plus an interesting development in the art of cooking sausages, the currywurst.  Even before you begin to groan, let me tell you it is sliced sausage swimming in tomato sauce (so far so good – the Queenslander in me respects this!) but then it’s heartily sprinkled with raw curry powder.  No seconds on that, thanks!  And believe it or not, there’s even a museum dedicated to this savage beast…



Signs of crass tourism....and curry badly mistreated

Reflective Pool at the former Ministry of Aviation Building

Well, the rain did clear for a wee bit so we continued on to look for Hitler's infamous bunker, once part of the massive & complex Reich Chancellery, now a simple car park.  Across Leipziger Strasse, the former Ministry of Aviation (in German, Reichsluftfahrtministerium or Luftwaffe Headquarters) reminds us how imposing the Chancellery must have been.  Grand architecture as a statement of power – we’d seen similar last year in Bucharest, Romania (The grandiose Palace of the Parliament)!  Not far behind is Potsdamer Platz, formerly a gate into fortified Berlin and from medieval times, part of a trading route across Europe (Paris to St Petersburg).  In 1930, its reputation as a brassy entertainment district (thinking “Cabaret”) was bolstered.  Now it’s the destination for viewing incredible modern architecture (and eating sublime apple tart with lashings of cream – energy boosting of course!).

Waiting near Checkpoint Charlie.  It's decision time.

We stopped briefly at the Topography of Terror with its standing segment of outer wall.  Built on the site of former SS and Gestapo Headquarters, it is indeed an imposing memorial.  Not far away is a further reminder of divided Germany - Checkpoint Charlie.  At this point the rain really settled in so we decided to finish our tour, on paper, back at the hotel. 


TV Tower, the Fernsehturm
(partially hidden by a pink pipe??)

For anyone interested in following our tracks, the plan was to end back at Alexander Platz, leaving Checkpoint Charlie for Gendarmenmarkt Historic Market Square; taking in Book Square and the Book Burning Memorial; admiring the German History Museum GHM; before taking a break to consider a slice of East Berlin at the Berlin Interactive Museum DDR.  Finally, it is possible to zoom heaven-wards in an elevator to admire the view from the TV Tower, Fernsehturm, on a clear day.  Shoppers can linger at Alexander Platz (for hours).  Time then to train underground, back to our hotel.   

After all this activity, our thoughts were otherwise on food, so off we went to explore the student quarter, settling on a pub packed with students well into a cocktail frenzy.  The food served was appalling (mmm, shocked?) so backtracked to a Thai hole-in-the-wall serving aromatic curries with life-reviving properties!

Hunting Souse & Bears

Warsaw, Poland

Warsaw was a nine hour mini-van ride from our Aukstaitija eden.  We managed to survive given the scenic countryside we drove through and fascinating glimpses of farm life, seemingly light years away from our own. 

Needless to say, at journey’s end we were all rather tired and with the weather taking a turn for the worse, only too happy to postpone our orientation walk of the old town.  The restaurant we’d booked across the river was otherwise committed, so we walked damp streets looking for something edible.  An Italian café just around the corner was a great find and we ended up eating there both nights. 

If you look closely near the soldiers gun hand &
reflected in the window, you will see the photographer taking this shot.

Next morning, bright eyed and bushy tailed (well, almost), we headed for a nearby tram.  But wait!  Do bears roam the streets of Warsaw?  The Zoo was just across from our tram stop and with a wide moat (and no fence) it looked for all the world as if the city was full of free-ranging brown bears! 

The inner city of Warsaw is huge.  There is the Old Town, a New (old) Town and a vast park, dotted with castles, fountains, galleries and sculptures, that stretches down beside the Vistuala River.  This city demands to be walked with all its intriguing nooks & crannies, museums, parks, churches and monuments.  We had a day – a week would be barely appropriate to really discover this lovely city.

 

Our orientation tour took in a circuit of the delightful Old Town, even at this hour starting to buzz with visitors.  The area was razed to the ground during WW2 but has been reconstructed - with some effort – to its former glory.  Some interesting craft shops and glittering pieces of amber caught GS’s eye but we had a date at the Warsaw Uprising Museum, a few tram stops outside of the inner city. 

Best described as challenging, this is the place to learn of Poland’s history.  The Museum’s exhibits are set up in an interesting way - perhaps it's a “post-modern” concept.  It’s easier to say the whole experience was unsettling (another Escher encounter?) - from displays that appeared not to follow any logical sequence to a dark and foreboding backdrop, punctuated by sounds of war. 

Bullets on a magnetic field spelled out the unimaginable numbers
involved in the Polish Uprising (WWII).   Uprising Museum, Warsaw

Copernicus - founding father of
modern astronomy

Well yes, we did expect this in some ways, the topics are hardly jolly, but we felt we were inside a computer game!  Finding the exit too became a quest of labyrinthine proportions.  Back on the outside, with a little sun and lots of fresh air, we’d finally escaped!  It was all a little bit dramatic for us…dare I say, oldies!

We needed to relax over lunch, so it was back to the old town to sample Polish sausages and potato pancakes with hunting souse.  Hunting souse turned out to be a thick (beef?) stew with thankfully no offal involved.  After this hearty lunch, the Cap’n headed off for the ultra-modern POLIN Museum dedicated to the history of Polish Jews whilst GS decided to take a slow stroll through the Old and New Towns, poking her nose into anything of interest and if there was time, a quick browse through the extensive art collection at the National Museum. 

The NM has quite a torrid history but now presents a vast collection of art works in a grand building that would seriously take days to explore.  The collections were heavily guarded, well laid out (in historical context) and very interesting.  Sadly, there seemed too few visitors but two enthusiastic young restorers-in-the-making were hard at work copying some of the most famous canvases. 

In speed-walking haste and with so much to see, it was a near miss - the world's most famous kiss!  Apparently the lovers were inspired after reading the story of Lancelot and Guinevere.  In 1893, Rodin's sculpture was considered too risqué for public display!  The gallery of religious sculptures also stopped me in my tracks, some most  poignant.

The weather was closing in again and it was time to head back to our Italian discovery – this time to sample their delicious tiramisu.  This travelling business can be seriously demanding!

Auguste Rodin's "The Kiss"

Man-Eating Swans

Aukstaitija National Park, Lithuania

 

 

Here is your intrepid reporter, deep in reeds, swans and slime in Aukstaitija National Park.  Well, we’re not wet – not yet anyway, with those threatening dark clouds following our every stroke.  Yes we’re in a kayak taking in a landscape pushed together some millions of years ago by glaciers that once rumbled by.  Luckily the ice is now water, and we have a series of attractive lakes set beside a truly picturesque blend of rural and pine forest landscapes to paddle through. 

Earlier, we had taken a character train from Vilnuis to Ignalina and then jumped a transfer to our homestay, a guesthouse, set amid traditional farmhouses deep in the wilds of Aukstaitija National Park.  This park is meant for getting back to nature.  Our plans included a hike and a canoe trip; not to mention being fed wonderful meals by our host Regina and her family.  I think there was meant to be some lazing about tucked into that itinerary too!

On arrival, we risked the threatening weather and set out on a hike.  This was not your usual pacey effort but rather a long, slow search through banks of pine needles for some soon-to-be-scrumptious mushrooms followed by a berry picking venture that quickly turned into a feast for gluttons!   We saw wild deer, were savaged by escaped purse-pooches, hissed at by evil swans and decided to give the Bee Museum a miss as it was getting dark.  Our hosts lit the guesthouse fire to warm chilled toes and after serving an excellent dinner, left us to relax. 

Nearby 19^th c Ginuciai Watermill is the start point for kayak tours and we had signed up for the short 3 hour trip!?!  So, learning how to paddle together (this helps with forward motion) we slipped along the narrow, shallow stream ducking under low wooden bridges, avoiding fallen trees, backtracking out of reed beds and negotiating families of ducks who would NOT give way.  This stream took us past farms and holiday cottages with little jetties and out into a wide shallow lake; quite the slime and swan fest spot. 





After gathering to learn about the park from guide Lineus, we eased our way through the reeds into another much larger lake, paddling across its smooth surface dotted with yellow and pink waterlilies and iridescent dragonflies.  We took a break from paddling and walked up Ladakalnis Hill, crested by a small oak, ringed with deliberately placed stones (it’s another wedding commitment thing!).  The view was simply stunning and we could quite understand its place in Lithuanian folk tradition.  Our paddling journey continued to the end of Lake Linkmenas, where our guide had a further surprise for us – an old castle mound.  A wooden fort of some importance had once stood on this site and its exposure in recent years by archaeologists and civic minded locals is an amazing story.  After surviving both the paddle and the hill fort’s challenging stairs, we celebrated with another custom - a swig of a life-infusing local beverage!  The day was topped off back at the guesthouse with a cleansing sweat in a sauna, a whisking with birch leaves for good measure and for some, a swim in the lake with man-eating swans.

(Apologies to Lineus, whose name I’ve most likely misinterpreted and spelled incorrectly.  Also, we’ve been able to include photos of the kayak trip with many thanks to Sanni who had the only waterproof camera.  GS did not take her camera or mobile phone knowing that this act would undoubtedly result in either a dunking or the heaven’s to open and fill the kayak.  Thus we arrived back dry but without photos!)

This family is running from hissing attack swans! Their patch is at the bottom
of our homestay garden.  Who needs guard dogs? 

Iron Maiden

A Vision Most Splendid

After our wet day trekking round Vilnius it was nice to see a bit of sun; especially so as we had planned a day trip by local bus to see the Trakai Island Castle.   The bus station is quite some distance from the area’s main feature – 25 minutes walking at least – but it was a nice day and the walk through the village very attractive with autumnal colours beginning to reveal themselves.  The area itself is a lake district with forested islands dotting a deep (and sailable) Lake Galvè. 

(Image from this Tour Group site)  Sadly, the weather was not that good!

A dry moat separates the main palace
from the outer courtyard

Trakai Castle, whose footprint almost consumes one of these tiny islands, dates from 1337.  Built during the reign of Vytautas the Great as a seat of power for the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, its strategic importance only waned after the crushing defeat of the Teutonic Knights in 1410.  This battle is said to be one of the greatest battles of Medieval Europe.  The rise of a substantially rebuilt Vilnius (its wooden castle was burned down in 1390) also added to the decline of Trakai’s military and political importance.  Having said that, the Island Castle remained a favoured summer residential palace hosting visiting dignitaries and many a grand celebration.   Trakai Castle was destroyed by the Cossacks in 1655 and it wasn’t until the 1950’s that restoration works began.  Given Lithuania’s tumultuous history, it’s hardly surprising that work wasn’t completed until 1987.  The result could only be described as a "vision most splendid". 

Circular defence towers have 4m thick bases

Castle Outer Courtyard.  Getting ready for a concert

Kingly Thrones

Grand Ducal Hall

Stunning Tapestry - not a lot of information in the Museum was in English
so sadly few details on exhibits were available to us...

Inner courtyard of the Ducal Palace
with the 30m keep towering overhead

The Palace now hosts the History Museum.  Parts of these building are 30m high and navigating the museum requires no fear of heights as open wooden stairs cling, seemingly precariously, to courtyard walls while internal spiral staircases plunge to castle depths, challenging the claustrophobic.  Avoiding tourists in large groups in tiny rooms became the game of the day and attracted the ire of custodians whose main job was to keep traffic moving one-way.  We felt as if we’d morphed real-time into an Escher lithograph of never-ending stairs.

In order to sustain ourselves for all this activity (stair climbing mostly) we stuffed ourselves with tasty homemade snacks, kibinai; a Trakai pasty might best describe it.  We wished we’d bought a few more as they were rather delicious but our grannie had sold out so we were forced to supplement our feasting with punnets of freshly picked blueberries instead.

The tiny village of timber cottages across from the island castle is home to ancestors of Judaic Karaim settlers.  Actually these ancestors were Vytautas’ captives who served in his household as royal guards.  Their Turkic ancestry is preserved and maintained in their customs and traditions. 

Karaim Houses in the Village