Lickety Split

Preveza, Greece.  Just in time for the weather…

So, here we sit back in Preveza with cleaning rags in our hands doing long promised chores and waiting for haul out.  So where did that cruising year go?  It seems only yesterday that we met with our Dangar Island neighbours, June & Paul, as they cruised through this area on their way south for the season.

Oh, look!  That cute cruise ship is back in Preveza

We’d left Kotor early and made for Bar to check out and leave, well, strand really, JKip in time for his transfer home.  WJ3 turned her nose south and made a relatively uneventful overnighter to Saranda in Albania.  Here we rested for a couple of nights, got up close and personal with the famed Italian temperament at the dock and ate delightful seafood dinners so cheaply you just wonder how they do it!  Having left Montenegro after a tax-free fuel mix-up (with no resulting fuel for us), we arrived in Saranda on the smell of an oily rag.  Agim, our ever-friendly agent, arranged for a tanker for us and the Riva docked next door.  Somehow, totally unawares, the Riva owner managed to flood gallons of diesel into the bay.  Catastrophe averted by merely ignoring it!  And don’t forget to only scrub your own boat down….

After leaving Saranda we managed a little sailing until, in the lee of Corfu, the winds just died.  We hugged the Albanian coast until it became Greece and bobbed southward until some 11 hours later, arrived in Preveza - a current against us most of the way.

Although I promised not to post up any more haul out photos,
we had to include this one with Aktio's new travel-lift.  Smart, hey!

Heat wave conditions continue and we are now, aside from totally over it, under 2 vast awnings trying to protect WJ3's decks from overheating and cooking us at night in our little cabin.  The sunbrella awning (made for tropical Caribbean weather) also keeps the rain off.  Handy, given that since being back we’ve had evening storms with amazing regularity, some quite wild.  

These storms have had victims and one limped into the Aktio yard a few days ago – sadly a Hunter with ½ a rudder, a twisted prop and damaged keel.  The anchor had failed to hold and the boat was swept back onto a rocky shore.  A reminder for us never to take anything for granted!

The yellow trailer still gets to tuck WJ3 into bed though

In a few days’ time we’ll be winging our way over the Baltic Sea – for a little boatless touring with daily weather considerations being set to “umbrella or not” level.  Sounds like fun and we’ll keep you posted!

(Rather than wax lyrical about the current cleaning regime, we will try to tame the hodge-podge of photos from this year.  With any luck, some may even be posted up before we depart for this final leg of our trip!  For annual cruising statistics, you will have to wait a little longer...)

Yes....Still Waiting

Preveza Marina, Greece

Our dock lines it seems, are stuck fast.  Needless to say, it has to do with a simple part for an American engine.  In Europe they don't take kindly to importing such spares and not only must we wait for it to be sent (to Greece - and all the complications that involves) but also be slugged 23% VAT then add 50 something % import duty.  And we complain about 10% GST!!! We are on rations of bread & water (almost).

To add insult to injury, we've also had to attend to the main engine, replacing a corroded "something" and the starter (or stopper) on Bruce's outboard.  It's a late start for the 7 year itch. Technical Terminology to be provided by our Cap'n who has developed quite the swear word vocabulary.

Oh well, life could be worse, but our float plan is decidedly more like that famed Australian Boating Event, Henley on the Todd Regatta. 

Mmm, well, this might just do...no mechanical parts involved

Although this has just a little more character....

Let’s Not Go Overboard

Preveza Marina, Greece

Off at last.  Only troubles followed in our wake – computer and generator to be precise.  Even the anchor light on top of the mast decided to join in the melee by flashing madly (so not the done thing!) so we were left scratching our heads.  The Cap'n accordingly busied himself at both the high and low points of the boat to sort things out.  After anchoring off Corfu for a day or so and making little headway, we now find ourselves back in the marina in Preveza awaiting the attention of a mechanic – yet again….. 

Now for those of you who are thinking “Oh foof, it’s only the generator!” lets understand the mathematical equation of this necessary device. 

Generator = Fridge = Food = Happy Cap’n

Electric devices too (toaster, rice cooker, water heater and very occasionally air cons) are run via this most hardworking of engines.  Life on board would be Spartan indeed and the Galley Slave is in no mood to be tolerating even fewer modern conveniences.  Neither is the Cap’n thinking (yet) of installing a 12v fridge, which could be run by our daunting bank of solar panels.  I suspect electric winches are higher on the priority list.

So our schedule will be delayed and condensed by a wee bit.  And we try not to consider the sage advice of more modest (purist) sailors like the Pardeys.  Such is life in the sunny Med.

Medicine & German heritage, naturally!

On Top of the Mast

Aktio Boatyard, Greece

We are waiting to splash.  Any moment now.  Turning on the computer will hasten the tractor's arrival, of course.  In the meantime, here are a few photos of the boat and boatyard we just had to post up.  It has only taken us 8 years to remember to take a camera up on the annual mast & rigging inspection. 

Well, true to form, the tractor arrived to bear the Other Woman to the blue waters of the Ionian Sea.  At the site of Anthony & Cleo's demise at the hands of soon to be Emperor Augustus, no less. All those years ago; it seems more story than truth.  Anyway, our farmyard assembled to bid us farewell and I suspect neither of us will miss Miss Foghorn's (donkey) all night serenade or the mosquitoes.

Yes indeed, a proper farewell parade in our honour

An update:  Our departure has been delayed yet again due to a generator with a mind of it's own.  Wouldn't start, then wouldn't shut down.  Expert guidance is necessary. Keep an eye out for polite commentary on the H460 site.  His Captainship should have lots of free time to update his blog now.... Meanwhile, we're heading over to the unfinished Preveza marina and will take a berth there.

A couple of shots of smart, new look Preveza

Over Old Ground

Aktio Boatyard, Greece

Back to Work

So, here we sit in the Aktio Yard surrounded by other boats undergoing similar beauty treatment as Miss Windjammer.  Needless to say, our Cap’n is lavishing attention, spending long hours and sinking a fortune into his other woman.  Meanwhile GS scales a 20ft ladder, despairs at Greek supermarkets and wonders if life wouldn’t be better just staying put.  After all, Ms Donkey could be expecting again (it is spring after all!), busy goats are keeping the meadow (boatyard) in trim, our local taverna does a fantastic moussaka and best of all, we could weather any storm without getting wet feet.  Did Odysseus feel the same when those sirens sang….I think they live just around the corner. 

No! I just live around the corner.

Preveza is undergoing a makeover too.  Streets in the old town are being given a cosmetic “lick & promise” and we hardly recognised our supermarket area.  We discovered the reason a few days later when a cruise liner dwarfed the town dock and small shops bulged with visitors.  Our marina too boasts a sparkling new 100t travel lift and the crusty old jeep that took us into town has been replaced by a smart people mover.  Ahhh, progress. 

 

Technology is turning out to be "12 Labours for the Galley Slave" this year.  Her computer is playing up now - after only a week of being here, so watching this little piece of blogosphere space may become somewhat dull, unless there's some resolution.  He's thinking... tinkering & a little fix, she's thinking... a brand new computer...

Yes, well perhaps we could just stay here... 

Finding El Greco

Cyclades by Ferry_Part 2

The original frieze at the Museum

Visiting the Museum allowed us a little more “artistic” licence when visiting Knossos - a field of ruins, a sea of visitors and, with a one way walking track, little chance to roam off limits.  Whilst there is some vitriol directed to Archaeologist Evans for “restoring**” parts of the site, I think it engages you more with the palace as it might once have been, and I’m guessing that having given his life to studying the Minoans, he should, if anyone, have had a better chance of visualising the great beauty of the grand Palace of Knossos.  We floated in and around palace ruins (sans guide - brave!), just trying to take its measure.

**It's that old argument of restoration vs conservation.  Never easy, but when you see how brilliantly restoration can be done then maybe it’s not so bad. 

How it might have looked.  On site, Knossos

Knossos: Bull Relief, north entrance

The mythical labyrinth that once housed a Minotaur (half man/half bull) is said to have been close to Knossos.  Legend has it that Theseus slayed the Minotaur but just for good measure, our wonderful hero, Hercules was sent to capture it as his seventh labour.  King Minos was obviously spoiled for hero choice. 

Long after the Minoans became legend, the Venetians came a knockin’ (1205–1669). Here on Crete, following the 4^th Crusade and as part of the Byzantine Empire, they established a series of fortifications and shipyards along this most valuable of trade routes.  The Ottomans were also keen to acquire this strategic Aegean island, so these forts at Hania, Rethymnion and Iraklion were serious constructions.

Venetian Dockyards, Hania
(once at the very water's edge)

We travelled to Hania by local bus following a spectacular, though rock fringed, coastline.  El Greco, a famous artist of the period had family connections in Hania, so it seemed appropriate that not only should we wander the quaint old streets and warehouses there, but stay in a hotel called El Greco. 

Nowadays these streets are lined with stacks of markets, dress shops, souvenir sellers and cafes; probably in much the same manner it was back then.  Just for good measure, we visited a Venetian dock that houses a replica of a Minoan ship.  Having seen the remnants of a Bronze Age ship discovered near Bodrum (in Turkey), it was fascinating to compare the two and imagine another Greek hero, Odysseus, setting off for Troy in one of these seemingly fragile craft.

Boats & stuff...oh goodie!  Hania

Model of a Minoan Ship in a Venetian Dockyard (now Museum), Hania

Mosque of the Janissaries, Hania

So, with our journey through the Cyclades over, it’s time to return to the calmer waters of the Ionians and “relax” over a little boat maintenance before setting off on another adventurous voyage ourselves. 

Venetian Fort, Iraklion

Morosini Fountain, Iraklion  17th c Venetian, really needs some TLC

Finding King Minos

Cyclades by Ferry_Part 1

From the Ferry Port, you can see the villages of Fira
& Firostefani, Santorini balancing on the caldera rim

I suppose you are all wondering why we abandoned the fabulous other woman for a ferry.  It's answered simply with a decision not to backtrack (a time factor really), a lack of suitable anchorages in Santorini and Crete and of course, the Meltemi.  The big Blue Star from Athens was as solid as a rock and the weather held – all the way to Crete.  Now it’s blowing a gale and as temporary landlubbers, we don’t actually care.  Tonight’s Minoan Lines is even bigger, so we’re expecting a decent trip back to Athens and a long bus ride in the morning back to Preveza, and WJ3 if she’s talking to us. 

A view to impress - from our hotel room

Cruise Ship passengers come up by gondola or donkey, we took a bus...

Santorini is very photographic & nicely kept

After a couple of wonderful nights perched high on Santorini’s cliff edge, we arrived in Crete, a totally different fish.  Sadly, Crete shows evidence of some financial distress but regardless, friendly people carry on catering for its many visitors.  We came in search of Minoans, tales of the Minotaur and Hercules’ daring feats.  Others come for beaches but truthfully, it’s not worth leaving home.  Beyond Iraklion to the west are some well-preserved Venetian forts/towns, so we’ve planned an excursion by local bus to Hania.

Minoan civilization dates back to 2100 BC with Knossos its most famous and fabulous palace complex; this is considered Europe’s first civilization and first palace, all ruled over by King Minos.  By 1500 BC, the more aggressive Mycenaeans had taken control of Crete and its substantial, well-established trade routes.  It’s been suggested that this takeover was made easier by the devastation caused by Santorini’s eruption and subsequent massive tsunami(s). 

 

Sirens - female heads & bodies of birds of prey; funerary symbols

First stop on our itinerary was the Iraklion Archaeological Museum which boasts an impressive collection of all things Minoan.  Items are arranged in chronological order by room, so it makes understanding the rise and fall of this civilization easier.  Whilst textiles haven’t survived, plenty of frescoes and artwork on pottery provides some idea of how the wealthiest Minoans decorated themselves and their homes.  Cretan craftsmanship of this period is simply amazing, especially the richly decorated Kamares ware; enough to inspire anyone in the fine art of pottery.  (Photos to follow.  Well, maybe....)

The Tempest & Furies

A room with a View

Athens, Greece

So, here we are sitting in a room in Athens with a fabulous view of the Acropolis.  Jetlagged, GS is weeping into her beer.  The scenery, spectacular as it is, cannot be photographed.  Well, not yet anyway. 

Some may recall that GS celebrated a significant birthday with the purchase of a DSLR.  Working on the principle that it can’t be much more complex than a point and shoot, she left discovering its technicalities until - well, the very last minute. 

So Cap’n I Told You So left her to her hissy fit, but not before providing a sedative (a beer or two and a few youtube videos) to assist in working out this complex little device.  Hmmm.

That's better...up on the hotel rooftop & bar (for sedatives only, naturally!)

Our next scenario is a balcony with a view of Santorini to die for.  GS has managed a few digital basics but is not happy with her wide-angle lens.  Even her phone offers better shots and a panorama option as well…  This folks then, is the blonde moment.  The camera came with three lenses and GS, in an effort to save weighty luggage, left one behind.  Yep, you guessed it - the wide angle.  Another hissy fit ensues and the Cap’n leaves the room again but not so discretely, wondering if said camera will learn to fly over the edge of Santorini’s caldera.

Just calming my nerves, my dear

Eruptions are not new to Santorini.  It is the site of one of the largest volcanic events in human history, (1650 BC).  This famously ended Minoan civilization, the remains of which are now being excavated at various points around the island; or rather what remains of it.  Santorini’s extensively photographed (well, by some any way!) white and blue villages perch along and over the volcano’s steep rim.  It’s all rather delightful but somehow our trusty Cap’n can see that life ahead will not be all wine & roses unless the camera issue is solved…and soon!

The white village of Firostefani crests the caldera