Finding El Greco

Cyclades by Ferry_Part 2

The original frieze at the Museum

Visiting the Museum allowed us a little more “artistic” licence when visiting Knossos - a field of ruins, a sea of visitors and, with a one way walking track, little chance to roam off limits.  Whilst there is some vitriol directed to Archaeologist Evans for “restoring**” parts of the site, I think it engages you more with the palace as it might once have been, and I’m guessing that having given his life to studying the Minoans, he should, if anyone, have had a better chance of visualising the great beauty of the grand Palace of Knossos.  We floated in and around palace ruins (sans guide - brave!), just trying to take its measure.

**It's that old argument of restoration vs conservation.  Never easy, but when you see how brilliantly restoration can be done then maybe it’s not so bad. 

How it might have looked.  On site, Knossos

Knossos: Bull Relief, north entrance

The mythical labyrinth that once housed a Minotaur (half man/half bull) is said to have been close to Knossos.  Legend has it that Theseus slayed the Minotaur but just for good measure, our wonderful hero, Hercules was sent to capture it as his seventh labour.  King Minos was obviously spoiled for hero choice. 

Long after the Minoans became legend, the Venetians came a knockin’ (1205–1669). Here on Crete, following the 4^th Crusade and as part of the Byzantine Empire, they established a series of fortifications and shipyards along this most valuable of trade routes.  The Ottomans were also keen to acquire this strategic Aegean island, so these forts at Hania, Rethymnion and Iraklion were serious constructions.

Venetian Dockyards, Hania
(once at the very water's edge)

We travelled to Hania by local bus following a spectacular, though rock fringed, coastline.  El Greco, a famous artist of the period had family connections in Hania, so it seemed appropriate that not only should we wander the quaint old streets and warehouses there, but stay in a hotel called El Greco. 

Nowadays these streets are lined with stacks of markets, dress shops, souvenir sellers and cafes; probably in much the same manner it was back then.  Just for good measure, we visited a Venetian dock that houses a replica of a Minoan ship.  Having seen the remnants of a Bronze Age ship discovered near Bodrum (in Turkey), it was fascinating to compare the two and imagine another Greek hero, Odysseus, setting off for Troy in one of these seemingly fragile craft.

Boats & stuff...oh goodie!  Hania

Model of a Minoan Ship in a Venetian Dockyard (now Museum), Hania

Mosque of the Janissaries, Hania

So, with our journey through the Cyclades over, it’s time to return to the calmer waters of the Ionians and “relax” over a little boat maintenance before setting off on another adventurous voyage ourselves. 

Venetian Fort, Iraklion

Morosini Fountain, Iraklion  17th c Venetian, really needs some TLC