Monday, May 11, 2015

Finding King Minos

Cyclades by Ferry_Part 1


From the Ferry Port, you can see the villages of Fira
& Firostefani, Santorini balancing on the caldera rim
I suppose you are all wondering why we abandoned the fabulous other woman for a ferry.  It's answered simply with a decision not to backtrack (a time factor really), a lack of suitable anchorages in Santorini and Crete and of course, the Meltemi.  The big Blue Star from Athens was as solid as a rock and the weather held – all the way to Crete.  Now it’s blowing a gale and as temporary landlubbers, we don’t actually care.  Tonight’s Minoan Lines is even bigger, so we’re expecting a decent trip back to Athens and a long bus ride in the morning back to Preveza, and WJ3 if she’s talking to us. 


A view to impress - from our hotel room
Cruise Ship passengers come up by gondola or donkey, we took a bus...

Santorini is very photographic & nicely kept

After a couple of wonderful nights perched high on Santorini’s cliff edge, we arrived in Crete, a totally different fish.  Sadly, Crete shows evidence of some financial distress but regardless, friendly people carry on catering for its many visitors.  We came in search of Minoans, tales of the Minotaur and Hercules’ daring feats.  Others come for beaches but truthfully, it’s not worth leaving home.  Beyond Iraklion to the west are some well-preserved Venetian forts/towns, so we’ve planned an excursion by local bus to Hania.

Minoan civilization dates back to 2100 BC with Knossos its most famous and fabulous palace complex; this is considered Europe’s first civilization and first palace, all ruled over by King Minos.  By 1500 BC, the more aggressive Mycenaeans had taken control of Crete and its substantial, well-established trade routes.  It’s been suggested that this takeover was made easier by the devastation caused by Santorini’s eruption and subsequent massive tsunami(s). 

 
Siren - female heads & bodies of birds of prey; funerary symbols

First stop on our itinerary was the Iraklion Archaeological Museum which boasts an impressive collection of all things Minoan.  Items are arranged in chronological order by room, so it makes understanding the rise and fall of this civilization easier.  Whilst textiles haven’t survived, plenty of frescoes and artwork on pottery provides some idea of how the wealthiest Minoans decorated themselves and their homes.  Cretan craftsmanship of this period is simply amazing, especially the richly decorated Kamares ware; enough to inspire anyone in the fine art of pottery.  (Photos to follow.  Well, maybe....)

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