Off Guard

Athens, Greece

The Acropolis (now under renovation) can be seen from all over Athens

Sunday in Greece, even Athens, translates too “not a lot open” and as official winter timings were in force (that means even shorter working hours), many attractions closed early.  We’re still coming to terms with Greek “timings” and the official long lunch….  Still, we made it to Parliament House to witness the Sunday Changing of the Guard.  Despite the crowds, we saw some of the review and the Cap’n chalked up yet another military performance to his list of many.  (For anyone interested, the uniforms are derived from traditional Klepht costumes worn by resistance fighters during Ottoman times. The pleats number 400, one for each year of Ottoman occupation. )

Afterwards, and to further embellish his military learning, our military buff Cap'n stopped to browse the National Historical Museum.   GS though, being on something of a national costume mission, dashed off to Plaka to visit the National Folk Art Museum, then took the slow road through the shopping district (tourist-tat heaven - although there are some nice pieces to be found) back to the hotel.

Monastiraki Square

Antique & Flea Market areas of Monastiraki

Having had a couple of nights of appalling stodge (Greek style) in our local area, we caught Big Red (indeed a useful taxi) down into the Monastiraki restaurant district and found, incredible as it seems, an Indian restaurant.  Heaven!  Must be nearly time to come home….

Who needs lions over your front gate?

Jumping Ship

Athens, Greece

We began our visit by walking to the nearby National Archaeological Museum, devoted to ancient Greek civilisation from prehistory to the Roman era.  Breathtaking artefacts, forever photographed in art history books, are located in this museum – it seems so surreal.  There are five permanent collections in a vast space, so again, we had to choose.  Most impressive for us, as we stumbled from room to room, was being able to understand the chronological amalgamation of all the sites we’d visited so far across Greece and Turkey. (Don't worry, there will be no history test at the end of this visit!)

Next on the list was to walk the Acropolis, as one must.  Even Mark Twain jumped ship (passengers had been quarantined – unfairly he thought!) to be sure he would not miss out on visiting this most famous site of antiquity.  The Acropolis houses the sanctuary of Athena with the main monument of early Greek civilisation, the Parthenon, an attestation to liberal society and democracy. 

The Tower of the Winds was out, having been covered head to toe in shade cloth for restoration.  It’s worth mentioning only because this octagonal structure, designed by an astronomer (1AD), was quite the “landmark” for sailors.  It functioned as a sundial, compass, weather vane and water clock.  The reliefs carved into its eight sides personify local winds and we were rather keen to meet Mr Meltemi to have a few words!

From Wiki (see link above)

On to the Big Olive

Athens, Greece

The bus trip (5 ½hrs) from Preveza didn’t seem so bad as our winding journey took us around scenic Amvrakikos Gulf (now we don’t have to sail it!), down to coastal Messolonghi (and its Byron associations), over the Rio-Andirio Bridge and along the northern Peloponnese coastline we’d gotten to know so well in Mr Panda.  The Corinth Canal flashed by and we soon hit the outskirts of Athens and our bus station.  From here, we were euro-fleeced by a taxi driver, but easily found our hotel in downtown Metaxourgio; certainly not the most exclusive of neighbourhoods but not too far from the action downtown, if you don’t mind a walk.

Memorable Graffiti

Memorable Monuments

Next morning we were up early for the obligatory sightseeing routine and luckily had a big red bus go right by our door.  Our first day was given over then to doing the Athens and Pireas loops with a walking tour and a lunch break at Monastiraki sandwiched in between.  These tours are such an easy orientation to new cities; they help us quickly locate major attractions, then after initial tours, become an useful “taxi”.  Back at the hotel, over a beer, we decided from the multitude of attractions for the following days.

Big Red - an excellent solution to get around this big city

Views over Athens

Farewell from Aktio

Preveza, Greece

Like Augustus, we too have completed a successful mission.  Yet another year in the Med and on water!  We’re busy putting the boat to bed, making repairs (does it ever end?) and living in chaos until the last hours on Thursday morning.  The ladder at the back of the boat seems to get higher each year and the distance to the loos & showers greater; but all’s fine at the back of the yard.  We have three cute donkeys, with their recent baby, braying in the early morning for food & attention, a couple of less personable goats, and a few yappy yard dogs for company.  From our “tower”, a view over the salt marshes and into the gulf isn’t bad either. 

Just so you can join us in the "pain" of a haul out, here's this year's sequence - on an hydraulic trailer, not a travel-lift:

Here it comes!

OMG, it looks like it's slipping off...

No, thankfully it's still on that "tiny" trailer..

Then it's time for a quick tub in fresh water

Before being put to bed on a steel cradle at the back of the yard
with a view over the bay and livestock for company.  That's so Greece!

Then it's time for annual statistics folks, so here it is wrapped up:

 

From: Sarande, Albania Lat/Long: 39:52.278N 20:00 .210E Date/Time: 5/09/14: 1500
To: Preveza, Greece Lat/Long: 38:57.087N 20:46.092E Date/Time: 29/09/14: 1230
Time Taken: 172.5nm (31.5hrs) Distance (this year): 1290nm (220hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 14623nm   Weather: Clear skies, calm seas & the occasional big blow
Fastest Speed: The motoring continues: all the more for next year! 

Eagles Nest

Meteora, Greece

This is Meteora. Oh, WOW!

Next morning, refreshed, we were picked up from our Kastraki B&B by tour group, Visit Meteora.  Given our schedule (limited time & still no map) and the fact that this tour included visits to 2 monasteries as well as a notable prehistoric cave, and then had us back in time for lunch, we readily signed up. (Also it let's the Cap'n admire the scenery too, rather than concentrate on sharing Greek roads with "enthusiastic" Greek drivers.)  Warning: photo overload ahead!

We started with a stop at two rocky outcrops where the first monastic settlements (10^th c) were made.  From the small chapel at the base of Doupiani, we were able to glimpse numerous caves that became “homes” for hermits and in later years, in a more organised capacity, monasteries.  Across from our vantage point, we could see the cave-shrine of St George.  Each year young men “climb” to this cave and replace votive scarves kept there to bring the village good fortune. 

Great Monastery of Meteora

First stop was the Monastery of Great Meteoron, (1387-1388) built by St. Athanasios.  It is certainly the most inspiring and highest placed at 615m.  From below, you could only wonder at the determination and achievement of these monks (and supporting villagers) who scaled such sheer walls to bring building materials and daily supplies. 

Some of the frescoes outside the church

We easily climbed a stone stairway, not quite so giddy as a net winched from a platform above, to enter the Monastery.  A number of rooms were set out; kitchens, workshops, storage cellar and crypt (with bones) attest to the rigours of a life led by these monks.  A viewing platform perched on the edge of the Platys Lithos (Broad Rock) gave us chills, but we understood the necessity for preservation of life in dangerous times.   The highlight, aside from a small museum, was the beautiful cross-in-square church decorated from floor to ceiling with vivid frescoes.  Those in the narthex were rather grisly (such is the life of a martyr) but inside it was ablaze in celebration of Christianity.  (A tour guide, not ours, mentioned El Greco, but this needs a little research yet).

Views to die for...

Back on the bus, we stopped at a number of viewpoints to hear about (and take photos of) the other monasteries, including a “jail” cave, even more austere, where naughty monks were sent to spend time in repentance.  At one time there were some 24 monasteries & hermitages in the area but now, sadly there are only six remaining.  A life in isolation requires many supporters, even better if wealthy, and a special attraction or two to draw the crowds (holy relics were vital).

"Katopusskos" sunning themselves on a ledge outside Ayiou Stefanou

Next stop was Ayiou Stefanou (1798), built by monk Ambrosios.  Here, we were treated to a viewing of their famous relic; a skull of a saint, St Charalambos, in a silver box.  The little church was being painted with traditional frescoes as we watched (although 15^th c frescoes do survive), and crowds mobbed the small museum.  Rudely, tour operators and large groups took up most available space, inside & out, so we didn’t feel the “composure” of Great Meteoron.  That said, the gardens were beautifully tended and many homely touches featured in this small monastery.

Inside Theopetra Cave

From 14th century monasteries to prehistoric caves.  Next on our list was the recently explored Theopetra Caves.  This dusty cave system is an extraordinary repository of early man’s existence.  The cave has seen human habitation since 135000 BC to 4000 BC (and no, there’s not too many zeros in those figures!).  Further, it provided temporary shelter to a range of occupants from the Bronze Age up until 1955.  Fertile lands surrounding the cave had been used by prehistoric man for hunting, farming and running stock.  At the cave’s entrance, archaeologists discovered a 23000 year old stone wall, possibly the oldest manmade structure ever found. It is thought that the occupants erected the wall to protect themselves (and their livestock) from extreme cold during the last ice age.  Although not the prettiest of ancient sites we’ve visited in Greece, it’s certainly been the most humbling.

Remember to look up...  Our friendly B&B

Our delightful B&B hosts advised us to take the Grevena road back to the A2 – a less hilly option.  The country was surprisingly lush and well cared for.  Forested areas (homes for bear & deer) added to the mix and the road relatively quiet.  Sadly, not one bear came to wave to us.  Next time we’ll carry some honey…

We made it back to Preveza in time (meaning daylight) to make a stop at Octavian’s (later Augustus Caesar) Nikopolis or Victory City.  The remains of the city are spread out over a wide area, so we viewed  the huge podium, built to celebrate his victory (over Cleo & Marc Antony’s fleets, not to mention his elevation to said emperor) and Rome’s might.  From there it was a short drive to fortified Byzantine walls restored by Justinian (6^th c AD) and now under archaeologists’ control, before heading back to a somewhat chilly, Preveza Marina. 

Two views of Nikopolis, Octavian's Victory City

Looking for Bears

Zagori, Greece

Triple Span Packhorse Bridge, Central Zagori

With WJ3 snug in Preveza Marina, we planned a trip into the northern mountains.  Our car, a bright red roller skate, had a little more determination than a Panda; thankfully, because the hills were fairly serious.  Katara Pass skims clouds at a mere 1694m and Metsovo, our turn off to Meteora, just 2300m.

Off we set with only a teensy Rough Guide map to show us the way.  It’s impossible it seems to buy road maps – in Greek let alone English - so we were off on a wing and a prayer.  Luckily we were heading for Meteora, land of mountain top monasteries, so someone must have heard us.  First planned stop however was Zagori country in the foothills of the Pindos Mountains.  We took the road to Ioannina, a winding but interesting trip passing through pretty farmlands, trout ponds perched on the edge of fast flowing rivers, shadowy glades and non-descript villages – a little worse for wear. 

Ioannina is surprisingly a large and bustling city; once the capital of Ali Pasha, now the realm of university students and expert double-parkers.  The traffic seems to flow like treacle through the frenetic activity and somehow in the confusion, we found ourselves centre stage.  The remnants of an Ottoman bazaar (with attractive silver shops!) to our left and Ali Pasha’s lump of a fort (Kastro) to the right!  All of course set with a beautiful backdrop of Lake Pamvotis and high mountains behind.  There was no time to stop however, as we had no idea what Zagori would hold for us and wanted to be in Meteora before dark.

Small Bridge with Chapel & goats

The most remarkable of the bridges we saw

Our luck held as we headed north and a faded sign pointing to the Central Zagori revealed itself in the roadside shrubbery.  Better still, to an Information Point!  Even better, it was open when we arrived!  A helpful Park Ranger gave us loads of brochures & maps and, given the time we had to drive the “country roads”, a plan to see the best we could in the time available.  We had come for the view of Vikos Gorge, villages of stone mansions set in rugged landscapes (where we should have stayed an extra night!) and the highly romantic packhorse bridges.

Triple Span hidden in the ravine
is larger than it looks

Under instruction, we set off in the direction of Koukouli & Kipi, dodging sleepy sheep dogs, to find our bridges.  Our fist was a tiny one span bridge with a small chapel to one side.  Goat bells tinkled nearby adding bucolic charm to the setting. 

These bridges, generally named after their wealthy sponsors, provided villagers a means of travel and trade with the outside world.  The landscape is so rugged, that mules were the vehicle of choice and bridges were built specifically for this traffic. Sadly, construction was a closely guarded secret held by the men who built them and the art now lost.  

Having discovered 3 bridges, we made for Monodendri Village and beyond, the Oxia lookout above Vikos Gorge.  The lookout is something of a narrow ledge, hardly room for half dozen gawkers to perch over a one way trip straight to the bowels of the earth.  We added to the pile of name stones at a little shrine hidden in the rocks nearby and quickly left before the rain set in. 

Vikos Gorge in cloud & rain

Our first "selfie" at the Gorge

Tiny shrine at the Vikos Gorge viewing point, Oxia.

Regrouping in the atmospheric Monodendri with coffee and pastries, we scouted round for a museum and monastery where the views down the Gorge from its balconies are said to be spectacular.  Signage was not good and besides, the oncoming rain made us jittery, so we headed back down to the Ioannina ring road and made for the Via Egnatia Expressway (A2). 

Stone Forest, Oxia

Having traversed some of these minor roads, one can only but appreciate the expressway.  For €2.40, at 130kph and through vast numbers of tunnels, we made short work of the mountainous terrain.  At times we felt we were digging for China, but here they say "Australia", so I guess it’s not all that bad.  The turnoff to Meteora and our village accommodation (Kastraki) meant another hour of downhill winding roads but we arrived, sense of humours intact and in time for sundowners.  Our B&B - a traditional cottage, veiled by a pink sunset at the foot of some jaw-dropping rocks!

Monodendri with view over the Vikos Gorge
(Is that the monastery we couldn't find?)

Back to Base

Preveza, Greece

The alarm clock everyone needs. Goats.
Big Daddy checked us out before he let the girls come out to play!

After our brief but interesting Albanian interlude, we spent a few quiet weeks exploring the northern Ionians, which are even nicer outside of busy August.  We found some lovely, tranquil anchorages, weathered a few decent blows (our anchor held on all occasions thankfully - there were often lots that didn’t!) and decided it was worth the effort to have slowed down to see a little more of the west coast of Greece. 

Ahhh...the serenity!  Fishing in Bruce "Jumping Fish Bay", Ormos Voltau, Igoumenitsa.

The general set of the wind is afternoon north westerlies with the occasional southerly (note: no Meltemi!).  At least once a week, we’ve weathered a storm of some sort and another must be brewing now because it’s suddenly become so hot and humid.  We’ve learned to take weather forecasts with a grain of salt deciding that we can be sure of choosing a lee shore if we med moor.  From this time, no further mention shall be made of med mooring.  It’s a useful practice, if only for preparing for divorce.

Lakka on Paxos...just like the Bahamas Banks

Walking the old town Lakka, Paxos

The islands are beautifully green, anchorages plentiful and water generally clear.  Still not much in the way of sea life near the shore though.  Whilst snorkelling, the most interesting object we’ve seen has been our anchor.  Along the mainland we found some isolated and peaceful stops.  All alarm clocks should be replaced by the tinkling of goat bells.  One small cove we christened Mullet Bay – the cheeky devils leapt with wild enthusiasm all around us.  We decided they were escapees from a nearby fish farm.  Even the Cap’n was tempted to put in a line.  Don’t worry; they’re all safe – except now they leap with contemptuous little smiles on their faces….  And the fridge is full of bait, still!

Lefkas Canal

Mainland views from Lefkas

After arriving back in Preveza and hatching our haul-out plan (my goodness is it that time of the year already!) we pushed back for another week of cruising and headed down to Lefkas and other smaller islands in the big “lake”.  The Italian cruising set in their smart sailboats had been replaced by convoys of charterers and a bevy of character boats – the real cruising fraternity.  We felt at home at last – where had they all been hiding?  A few seem to have lost their luggage on the flight over and had only their tans to keep them warm.  Well and good if you’ve got a trim six-pack (or are an Elle double) and have time for bow bunny duties.  Not so good if bending over to attend to deck chores – a bit frightening for the kiddies.  Still, life’s an education….

Early morning in what we thought was an isolated anchorage the night before. Port Leone, Kalamos

So we just looked the other way

We’re now sitting in Preveza Marina cleaning up WJ3 and getting her ready for haul out early next week.  Part of that plan includes a quick side trip to Meteora to see the mountain top monasteries (report to follow) and a little more inland Greece by car.  After that, our TWB phase begins - travelling without boat.  We’ll catch a bus to Athens, fly to Vienna then train to Budapest to join our Intrepid Eastern Europe tour.  If Count Dracula doesn’t get us, we’ll fly home from Istanbul; so a few days for a long goodbye to the exotic eastern med.  And time to find another carpet?  Oops, the Cap’n just fainted!

Old windmills (now taverna) on Kastos

Tiny disused monastery under the pines, Kalamos