Back to Base

Preveza, Greece

The alarm clock everyone needs. Goats.
Big Daddy checked us out before he let the girls come out to play!

After our brief but interesting Albanian interlude, we spent a few quiet weeks exploring the northern Ionians, which are even nicer outside of busy August.  We found some lovely, tranquil anchorages, weathered a few decent blows (our anchor held on all occasions thankfully - there were often lots that didn’t!) and decided it was worth the effort to have slowed down to see a little more of the west coast of Greece. 

Ahhh...the serenity!  Fishing in Bruce "Jumping Fish Bay", Ormos Voltau, Igoumenitsa.

The general set of the wind is afternoon north westerlies with the occasional southerly (note: no Meltemi!).  At least once a week, we’ve weathered a storm of some sort and another must be brewing now because it’s suddenly become so hot and humid.  We’ve learned to take weather forecasts with a grain of salt deciding that we can be sure of choosing a lee shore if we med moor.  From this time, no further mention shall be made of med mooring.  It’s a useful practice, if only for preparing for divorce.

Lakka on Paxos...just like the Bahamas Banks

Walking the old town Lakka, Paxos

The islands are beautifully green, anchorages plentiful and water generally clear.  Still not much in the way of sea life near the shore though.  Whilst snorkelling, the most interesting object we’ve seen has been our anchor.  Along the mainland we found some isolated and peaceful stops.  All alarm clocks should be replaced by the tinkling of goat bells.  One small cove we christened Mullet Bay – the cheeky devils leapt with wild enthusiasm all around us.  We decided they were escapees from a nearby fish farm.  Even the Cap’n was tempted to put in a line.  Don’t worry; they’re all safe – except now they leap with contemptuous little smiles on their faces….  And the fridge is full of bait, still!

Lefkas Canal

Mainland views from Lefkas

After arriving back in Preveza and hatching our haul-out plan (my goodness is it that time of the year already!) we pushed back for another week of cruising and headed down to Lefkas and other smaller islands in the big “lake”.  The Italian cruising set in their smart sailboats had been replaced by convoys of charterers and a bevy of character boats – the real cruising fraternity.  We felt at home at last – where had they all been hiding?  A few seem to have lost their luggage on the flight over and had only their tans to keep them warm.  Well and good if you’ve got a trim six-pack (or are an Elle double) and have time for bow bunny duties.  Not so good if bending over to attend to deck chores – a bit frightening for the kiddies.  Still, life’s an education….

Early morning in what we thought was an isolated anchorage the night before. Port Leone, Kalamos

So we just looked the other way

We’re now sitting in Preveza Marina cleaning up WJ3 and getting her ready for haul out early next week.  Part of that plan includes a quick side trip to Meteora to see the mountain top monasteries (report to follow) and a little more inland Greece by car.  After that, our TWB phase begins - travelling without boat.  We’ll catch a bus to Athens, fly to Vienna then train to Budapest to join our Intrepid Eastern Europe tour.  If Count Dracula doesn’t get us, we’ll fly home from Istanbul; so a few days for a long goodbye to the exotic eastern med.  And time to find another carpet?  Oops, the Cap’n just fainted!

Old windmills (now taverna) on Kastos

Tiny disused monastery under the pines, Kalamos 

Summer Fun

Corfu, Greece

Having made a dash through the Ionians, largely due to necessary repairs, and having discovered how truly busy this waterway is, we thought we’d disappear northwards and return – after August – to spend time floating amongst lush green islands and sheltered anchorages.  Plans were made to be modified.  So it was we found ourselves heading south to Kefallonia, more precisely Fiskardho, via the wild, west coast of Lefkas.  (Going this way was visually captivating – huge, sheer white cliffs dropped into the most amazing turquoise seas we’ve seen to date.  But devastating to the stomach!  The swell was a tad challenging, so we had the waters mostly to ourselves.  Hmmmm?)

Family had been heading south from Croatia and we hoped to catch up.  Somehow we had passed them in the Lefkas Canal area as they headed south for a week off their sailboat (a pristine aircraft carrier) in a wonderful villa in Fiskardho with friends.  We tracked them down.

Sailboat Baruch with the Watson family & friends aboard
(& his Captainship making a thorough inspection) 

All having lots of fun

Having been treated like visiting royalty, we decided to make for some of the anchorages we’d previously planned to visit.  Meganissi has some lovely deep bays on its north coast and we’d imagined exploring them.  It seems most of Italy had the same idea.  We finally found an anchorage but couldn’t get the anchor to set through thick weed.  Equally thick (but solar) were the Germans who abused the Cap’n for anchoring too close.  We wondered what their definition of “close” was given this was the Ionians and August… 

Happily, although well after sundowner hour, we found Vlycho (Lefkas) an almost landlocked bay with lots of room, despite a seeming cast of thousands at anchor.  Here we stayed a couple of very pleasant nights – the Cap’n waving merrily as the histrionic Germans joined us.  They kept moving well passed us though….

Back to Preveza (where Bertha Rocna had unsuccessfully made an escape bid) to pick up spares and on to Paxos.  We’d chosen a small bay, a little south of Gaios (the main town we’d planned to dinghy to) and were pleased to be boat number three.  All to ourselves.  Well, not for long.  They steadily streamed in.  Mogonissi is not large and yet they still sandwiched themselves in – some med moored and plenty at anchor.  We postponed our dinghy ride and slept a restless night in sardine bay. 

Lakka was no better so we hot-footed it across to Corfu, nervous of what we might find.  Here we sit in a large, open anchorage at the foot of a grand old fort surrounded by the big boys (hot water boats).  We’ve had a day in town shopping (the Cap’n purchasing some courtesy flags..I guess that’s shopping) and walking narrow Venetian streets.  We dinghied the fort moat (thinking of you & Ceuta, BCK) and watched in horror as a speeding hot water boat (worth millions) nearly demolished itself on the old fort walls.  We walked into an exhibition of Indian artefacts in the Palace of SS Michael & George – with a ravishing photo of the Taj Mahal.  India & Nepal just seem to keep following us around….  Then, finished the day with a cold beer overlooking probably the Med’s only cricket pitch!

Postcards from Corfu

 PS. We’re not sure what our next destinations will offer in terms of wi-fi (here it’s said wee-fee) so bear (maybe some brown bears?) with us.

A very close call...& only saved by a tiny bit of beach

From: Preveza, Greece Lat/Long: 38:57.173N 20:45.844E Date/Time: 5/08/14: 1130
To: Corfu, Greece Lat/Long: 39:36.873N 19:55.603E Date/Time: 11/08/14: 1615
Time Taken: 147.5nm (23.5hrs) Distance (this year): 959.5nm (163hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 14292.5nm   Weather: Better winds in the Ionians (NW & evening) although the afternoon heat can oppressive at times
Fastest Speed: Averaging 6-6.5kts – more sailing here than elsewhere or are we just imagining it?

Bunkers Galore

Preveza, Greece

Our journey from Korinthos (Corinth) continues:

 

Ancient Korinthos (from out at sea)

We had left Korinthos, making for Itea, and another seemingly abandoned marina.  Tied to the wall, we could safely leave WJ3 and head for the hills.  You would think, would you not, that having been exposed so far to the best of Greek bureaucracy, we would learn. Just don’t ever ask about banks...

Our Cap’n pedalled to the bus station to coordinate timings for our Delphi visit.   Next morning, bright and shiny at 7.45, we presented ourselves.  “It’s Saturday,” she said.  “And?” said our Cap’n, starting to get a little terse.  The bus left at 7:15. Of course it had, this is Greece!  Back to WJ3 then for a three hour wait for the next bus….  Luckily there were seats available.

Marina at Itea_WJ3 over on far dock

Our woes did not stop there.  After Delphi, we stopped for dinner at an Itea quay-side restaurant.  Let me tell you, it was the worst food we’ve had in seven years.  Just to add insult to injury, it came with a hefty €50 bill!   Next morning, we left Itea very early. Only to blow out the main sail.  (More detail on the Cap’n H460 site, soon-ish, he’s busy organising repairs and fixing things!).

Our next little anchorage in Trizonia was very charming – a little Dangar in the Korinthos Gulf.  We were understandably a little taverna shy so didn’t bother with tying up at the dock (I think another free one?).  Here we rested two days, hiding from strong westerlies, until we pushed on for a planned stop at Messolongi.  Conditions had been calm, and we fair slid under the Rion-Andirion Bridge, the longest suspension bridge in the world and quite a dramatic sight. 

Trizonia with steep hills on the mainland behind

Reading more "repair manuals"_relaxing on Trizonia

Rion-Andirion Bridge with car ferry
(cheaper than using the bridge apparently)

Getting that ICW feeling all over again!

Despite the afternoon breeze building, we decided, being something of old hands at bashing INTO it, we’d continue on to Ithaca, home of Ulysses.  Once there, we found a lovely little nook, festooned with yellow buoys for swimmers, but with enough room for us.  Katabatic winds found us, as did the thousands of other boaties in the Ionian – it’s Pitt Street on the water here.  Despite limited space, two other boats crept in front of us, crossing our anchor chain.  We had been warned about August and the Ionian.  We left in the morning with a dramatic flourish (No! Was that anchor woman being yelled at??) and glint of perspiration on our neighbour’s brow. 

Lefkas Canal & the race is on...

The day was brilliantly mild, with yachts criss-crossing picturesque waterways, so rather than stop at Lefkas, we kept going through the canal and on to Preveza.  Aktio Marina is our 2014 haul-out yard of choice, so aside from making ourselves known, it seemed like the perfect opportunity to slow down for a few days and have the main sail & Bruce’s outboard seen to.  We’ve been invited dockside at Aktio until the repairs are made, the Cap’n has found an extensive chandlery, the washing’s been done, galley’s restocked, shore showers are hot and all’s well with the world.

Aktio is historically noteworthy, having been the gathering place of Marc Anthony & Cleopatra’s combined fleets; their sights set firmly on Italy.  It was here (Actium) that Octavian firmly trounced them, his ultimate triumph was to eventually become Emperor Augustus.  Cleo went home to find herself a little viper.

Preveza sunset and gathering place for ambitious Cleo & the lovely Marc

From: Korinthos, Greece Lat/Long: 37:56.493N 22:56.180E Date/Time: 25/07/14: 0845

To: Preveza, Greece Lat/Long: 38:57.173N 20:45.844E Date/Time: 30/07/14: 1630
Time Taken: 166nm (28.5hrs) Distance (this year): 812nm (139.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 14145nm   Weather: Good run although not much sailing time (again!)
Fastest Speed: Averaging 6-6.5kts – amazing what a little engine juice does