Not Always Plain Sailing

Reflections on the Cruising Life: 1 March 2012

Leaving Deltaville Marina 2010

We have just read about the plight of Chinook Wind, a 37’ Tayana owned by Dick and Ann Oliver. Sadly, it was wrecked on a reef, Aves de Barlovento, off the Venezuelan coast on 1/03/12. Fortunately, Dick and Ann were rescued. As this detailed Sail World article says, this is every cruising sailor’s worst nightmare. 

Map from Sail World

We met Kiwi's Dick and Ann in Deltaville VA at the Deltaville Marina and Boatyard. It is always nice to meet a friendly couple who shared a sailing passion. They also shared with us their sense of humour (Australia’s coup by Julia Gillard) and created interesting recipes –who could forget their sardine chowder!

We wish them well and trust they will get back on the water soon.

Heading off for Europe

Leaving their mark in Horta, Azores. Dick is a talented artist.

Trolley Honks, Cape May

Emlen Physic House, Cape May

European discovery of Cape May can be traced back to Henry Hudson who became ensnared in those nasty shoals off the Cape in 1605.  Later, it was a convenient home for seafarers, many of whom were made wealthy from whaling excursions, literally just off the coast.  It was a lonely life for their families and English colonists however until the 1800’s when Cape May became a popular coastal resort, particularly for those escaping yellow fever.  Even though it was some 3 days hard travel from New York, many of the wealthiest families had summer homes or “cottages” built to take advantage of sandy beaches, calm Atlantic waters and clear air. 

The central district of town is brimming with this legacy and there has been quite some effort taken to conserve its charms, including conferring status as a National Historic Landmark.  The Motleys climbed aboard a trolley tour that included historical information on the area, including Cape May’s other claim to fame as one of the most haunted towns in the world.  We finished with a tour through one of these graceful Victorian mansions. 

A Cute Gingerbread

The Emlen Physick Estate was built in 1879 for Doctor Physick and his family.  His architect was Frank Furness whose style and influence is evident in the work of one of his exceptionally famous students, Frank Lloyd Wright. The house, whilst grand, does not include gingerbread architectural features, very popular at the time.  No photos were allowed to be taken inside on our tour (as usual but no notes were included either). 

Still it was a remarkable glimpse into life in Cape May’s social elite and as many of the Doctor’s own possessions have been recovered, it seemed less like a museum piece – we saw how it was rather than how it was thought to be.  We did wonder how the Doc’s mother managed to squeeze her “dainty” toes into some amazingly slender boots though.  And we scorn the once traditional Asian practice of foot binding!    

Call that a Beach _ so where's the surf?

Washington Street has been turned into a pedestrian mall lined with shops brimming with touristy ephemera and eateries.  It is of course, high season, and tourists cram every shop.  There’s a huge line up for our recommended cafe so we find somewhere else and continue to be amazed at what passes as high quality food.  

 

Lounging at the beach was not for the Motleys either.  Described as world-class, we were wondering which world, when the attendant asked for $5 each for beach access (a daily fee). At least the beaches and boardwalk have been protected from corporate creep where posh hotel chains line the waterfront (and own out to the high water mark), restricting views over the water to those who can’t afford it.    

Still and all, the Motley’s enjoyed their brief stay in historic Cape May.  GS resisted the urge to buy an antique quilt while the boys drooled over a perfectly restored T Model Ford.  Maybe next time!

Don’t Leave Port on a Friday

Remembering Trini times with Peter & Gayle

So we didn’t but saved ourselves for the free Reggae Solstice at Town Point Park on Saturday night instead. We should have come dressed in our Trini clothes, mon, but still we didn’t do too badly all things considered (read – no laundry done for what seemed like weeks!).  Kenyatta Hill sang up a storm and the Itals re-formed especially for the night.  For old guys, they sure could sing.  It made us (younger old ones!!) want to head straight back to the Caribbean.

We had met up with another Aussie couple, Peter & Gayle on Jabiru (Southport), also anchored at Hospital Point.  Rather than wait in Norfolk for good weather to cruise the coast, we moved on up Chesapeake Bay (Plan Z by now).  WJ3 performed with great style and we even made Solomons Island, albeit a little late but far better than an anticipated 2 day run.  After anchoring, we watched as an electrical storm came speedily overhead.  BW set up his camera and was madly flashing away trying to capture a “great” lightning shot, whilst the Cap’n got out the binos to survey the stormy scene.  By now, a young kiwi lass on a boat nearby, trying to take a shower on deck in privacy, considered both to be pervs, and rushed below.  Next morning the Captain’s merry wave was met by icy glares….  There were some Kiwis we certainly were not going to meet!

Cooling off in Weems Creek Annapolis. 
Haven't we been here before?

We meandered our way up the Bay resting in the peaceful Sassafras River before running the C&D Canal and Delaware Bay; another long and not entirely uneventful day.  We spotted a submerged, abandoned dinghy floating near the shipping channel and reported it to the Coast Guard.  After quite some discussion to be sure that no bodies were floating with it, we moved on to Cape May and its harbour busy with a tuna fishing tournament (lots of big noisy power boats) and a small anchorage brim full of sail boats sheltering from strong SW winds.  We had had used the winds to advantage, galloping round Cape May through the shoals, not losing lures this time only tangling two of our lines.  This kept BW occupied and frustrated for hours!  Ah, the fun of fishing…

Jabiru was also in Cape May, so Cap’n Friendly motored over.  They too left Norfolk the same day as us only choosing the faster coastal route but had run into our Solomons storm out at sea. Their genoa was shredded to ribbons and wind generator lucky to have not come apart in the 40kt winds.  A sailmaker in Cape May had given them a good quote but they would need to wait a whole month.  Gasp…we congratulated ourselves at having taken the slow and steady route – at least we arrived in Cape May without having further delays that could quite well have ended our Crossing attempt this year!

Richmond County Yacht Club, Great Kills_Fantastic Hospitality!

So here we are after a fantastic run up the coast, sitting in Great Kills Harbor on a mooring.  We have decided to stay for a week to get ourselves ready (again) – at least we are now at the right latitude (40N) to make a rhumb line course (2150nm) direct for the Azores.  Perhaps it had better be a rum line.

From:	Hospital Point, Norfolk	To:	Great Kills Harbor, Staten Is
Lat/Long:	36:50.67N  76:17.92W	Lat/Long:	40:32.5400N  74:07.9210W
Date/Time:	11/7/11: 0535	Date/Time:	17/7/11: 1320
Time Taken:	403.5nm (60hrs)
Distance:	892.5nm (147.5hrs) (this year)	Dist Total	6264.5nm (since 2008)
Weather:	SW ; 10-15kts G20; 2-4’ seas;
Fastest Speed:	9kts surfing (generally 7kts running with the wind)

Not Struck Again!

Storms off the coast.  Storms all up the coast.  Storms over the coast... 

We arrived back in the Chesapeake weaving our way through heavy black clouds, intense lightning, a couple of maydays and a wee bit of rain.  Fort Monroe too was being thrashed so our trusty Cap’n guided us up the Elizabeth River (at night and during 4^th July celebrations) to our Hospital Point anchorage, which is better for repairs and being deck potatoes anyway. 

That's IT!  Let me off at Hooters...now!

Next morning GS & BW sat, hardly awake, with early morning coffees as a neighbouring boat called out to see if we’d had much damage. “We saw the lightning hit your mast last night” he said, “didn’t you feel it?”  The Motleys were speechless…are you kidding?  “Quite spectacular really. Hit the mast and 2 forks split out from the top,” he continued. “Amazing your anchor light is still working!”  GS & BW debated who was going to break the news to the Cap’n.   Shute….

BW dashed below to check the electronics as GS shouted after them….”What time?”  “Oh, right when the fireworks were on - about 8.30 or 9pm.”  Big sigh – it couldn’t have been us then!  All sailboats look the same in the dark, obviously.

We were beginning to wonder how many superstitions (aka nautical theories) we had broken.

From:	Mill Creek off Hampton Flats	To:	Hospital Point, Norfolk
Lat/Long:	38:19.86N  76:19.80W	Lat/Long:	36:50.67N  76:17.92W
Date/Time:	3/7/11: 1440	Date/Time:	4/7/11: 2155
Time Taken:	182nm (32hrs)
Distance:	489nm (87.5hrs) (this year)	Dist Total	5867nm (since 2008)
Weather:	SW ; 10-20kts; 3-6’ seas;
Fastest Speed:	6kts (generally 4.8kts before the storm)

Kookaburra Wings & Humble Pie

The day finally came to leave Deltaville. Ship shape and rearing to go, we set off for Hampton Flats and a quaint little overnight anchorage near Fort Monroe.  After refuelling and topping up our water, we headed off out into the wild blue yonder.  It all started so well….

Not too long after midnight and 60 nautical miles off the coast, a beefy electrical storm headed by a squall overtook us with amazing speed.  BW noted wind speeds of 40kts while he and the Cap’n adjusted sails and worried about fierce lightning jabbing all around us.  GS didn’t see much from her refuge in the loo.  We had, as the Cap’n later explained over a beer in a quiet bar, been boxed around the ears a little harshly on our first night out.  You see, the storm itself was not too bad.  (Really?)  It was the broken steering wheel shaft that made us turn back for Norfolk.  None of us could imagine steering the boat 24/7 for 3 solid weeks without the autopilot.  Who knows where we would have ended up? 

GS comes up with another bright idea!

So here we sit in Norfolk at the Outback Steakhouse over a plate of Kookaburra Wings (won’t the American’s eat just about anything?) and a few pints waiting for Edson to send a replacement and for the old weld to be redone as a spare.  BW reckons we’ll have at least 5 boats towing behind WJ3 soon, all full of spares.

GS’s computer has been on strike too; a sort of a go slow moratorium. Shopping for a replacement did the trick though – and a bit of tinkering by BW.  So hopefully blogging and tracking will get back to normal in the next few days but few hopes are held for photo inclusions.

Not to be outdone, the inverter decided to pack it in (technical details to follow in the H460 blog) so that threatened 3 weeks of fresh food sitting in the fridge. Whatever the inverter didn’t kill, the heat in Norfolk has.  Our woes continue as we wait. And wait.

  

From:	Jackson Creek Deltaville	To:	Mill Creek off Hampton Flats
Lat/Long:	37:32.85N 76:19.78W	Lat/Long:	37:00.52N  76:19.11W
Date/Time:	2/7/11: 1250	Date/Time:	2/7/11: 1835
Time Taken:	40nm (7hrs)
Distance:	307nm ( 55.5hrs) (this year)	Dist Total	5679nm (since 2008)
Weather:	S; 5-10kts; 1’ seas; showers & thunderstorms
Fastest Speed:	Motor sailing 6kts

Onwards to Cape May

No, wait!  It’s Deltaville again...

Whilst we pondered our plight in Annapolis and sought advice as to how best fix our little dilemma, it became apparent that we would need to be hauled out – yet again.  An expensive but necessary repair.  Oh well.  Cap’n Concerned did the rounds of the recommended boat yards in Annapolis and discussed our predicament with all who would care to listen.  Finally, we decided that in the best interests of the Captain's nerves,  WJ3’s professional care and the Motley Crew’s internet and latte addiction, that Deltaville was the place to be. 

We know and trust the Deltaville Boat Yard, the technicians are all first class at what they do and we felt WJ3 would be in very good hands.  So here we are again, waiting for the part to arrive from Edson, and hoping for a short stay out of the water….  

Meanwhile, GS & BW are in the pool!

Me and the Other Woman having a little cry (JGP Photo)

Sis Link in Baltimore

We left Solomons, over-nighted in Weems Creek off Annapolis and then found ourselves motoring in a flat calm up the Patapsco River to Baltimore.  We had heard that the Inner Harbour was the place to be and there was even an anchorage.  Hmmn?  Sited between the Torsk (a submarine) with repetitions of “dive, dive” as sirens blared and hyperactive paddle boaters was a thin sliver of water.  Combined with harbour slop and a serious rubbish problem, it was not attractive.  We hailed the City Docks - only $80 a night (even more with electricity)!   Back we steamed to Canton where we remained for our stay, the only boat on anchor in the harbour…

Just the two three of us... (JGP Photo)

As luck would have it, Canton was more convenient anyway.  A huge Safeway was just across the road and a choice of 2 Starbucks for the Motleys to further indulge the Latte habit.  West Marine was a short walk away too.  So we were all happy. 

Visionary Art Museum Baltimore

Baltimore’s Inner Harbor was once 18 & 19^th century docks.  It’s now a playground with an assortment of museums, an aquarium and various other ways to spend your money.  GS headed off alone to visit the American Visionary Art Museum while the lads located an electronics shop.  “Do you have stores this big in Australia?”  “Nah mate, the roos’d start breedin’ in ‘em.  Then we’d ‘ave a bit of a problem”….

We could easily scoot to Fells Point in Bruce however.  This neighbourhood is a bit more of a local hangout, with lots of bars, restaurants and history.  Fells Point  began its life in 1726 as a colonial port where more than 600 ships were built, including the later Baltimore Clippers, and the US frigate Constitution.  The streets are cobblestone and at nights the pavements are full of diners eating a local favourite – mussels.  Fells Point even boasted a (free) public dock! 

We ate delicious mussels (steamed in Guinness & Old Bay) at Berthas one night, after sampling a few of her home brews in the downstairs pub – a narrow heritage building, dark and mysterious, with flaking moose heads, weasels in underpants, strange horned light fittings and lots of atmosphere.  We were told by the barman and one of his more chatty patrons that upstairs was once a speakeasy.  Another night we had a few beers in Max’s.  They have 102 on tap, and 600 more in bottles.  All this and NO Aussie beer!   The boys had a go at a top shelf tasting, the Cap’n taking it easy with “thimbles”.  Then we tried a pizza at BOP.  Their “large” is more than 18 inches across.  It covered our table.  

Name & Shame.  For our last night, the boys decided to try the nearby Tiki Hut Bar at Bo Brooks.  The Crew became embroiled in a brouhaha over proof of age.  Despite numerous photo ID’s, even Management, who was summonsed to referee, refused to accept them as legit and demanded to see BW’s passport.  It was out on WJ3!  The Cap’n, after finishing his cold & frosty, promptly announced to all and sundry that there would be no need to get said passport as we were taking our business elsewhere!  And so we did – back to Fell’s Point and into Woody’s, high up on the third floor overlooking the docks.  The boys drowned their sorrows in half yards of Mexican beer – and they even got to keep the glasses.  Bargain!

(Ed note: to further rub salt into wounds, the Tiki Hut Bar charged BW US$1.00 on his card – the one that wasn’t used, for the beer that wasn’t to be had and despite being assured there would be no charges. Don’t go near the place!).

From: Solomons Island Patuxent R.  To: Baltimore, Patapsco River

Lat/Long: 38:19.86N  76:19.80W  Lat/Long: 39:16.70N  76:34.86W

Date/Time: 14/6/11: 0655  Date/Time: 15/6/11: 1515

Time Taken: 75nm (14hrs)  Distance: 133.5nm (23hrs) this year

Dist Total: 5505.5nm (since 2008)

Weather: N-NE; 10-15kts; 2-3’ seas; showers & a bit of a chop - wind against current

Fastest Speed: 5-6kts