Detained on Elba

La Spezia, Italy

The island of Elba was next on our list, so we planned to break the journey mid-way at an anchorage sheltered from prevailing winds.  Despite an adverse current, we made good time with a pleasant southerly pushing us along.  Yes, we even sailed for a few hours!  However, the southerly freshened up in the late afternoon and it became apparent that our anchorage would be less than attractive in the onshore swell.  The Cap’n consulted various weather oracles and declared that despite a forecast late evening change, we could make it to Elba, albeit in the early hours.  There was only 40 miles to go. 

At dusk, with 20nm down and off an aptly named Giglio (actually it means lilies) we experienced a couple of strange events.  Firstly, a large fishing boat was towing another, whilst a small coast guard boat danced around them.  We provided some much needed relief from the tedium obviously, so this occasioned the flashing light and a momentary chase to ensure we were well out of the way.  We didn’t have the VHF radio on, and there was little point anyway given our limited language skills. We wondered what they said to us... 

The next item of interest was a low line of grey cloud hovering in our path.  It looked so low, GS was concerned the mast would touch it – reliving memories of lightning strikes off the US coast.  “Ah,” said the Cap’n, “that would be our front arriving.  Predicted winds from the NW (yes, our direction to Elba, of course) at 10-15kts.”  We also noticed clouds piling up along the coast. 

Passing through the front was fine, the waters disturbed but not challenging.  Breaking free of it however told another story.  Winds built up to 20-25 kts fairly quickly and with a steep swell and current against us, the last miles in trampoline conditions took FOREVER.  GS succumbed in the final hours yet managed, whilst clutching the bucket, to assist our heroic Cap’n furl the main at the mast (the furling line in the cockpit was slipping).  Equipment difficulties  always seem to occur in dreadful conditions!  Finally an anchorage on the south coast of Elba was in site - in the dead of night and two hours later than predicted.  After watching an incredible electrical display from a line of storm cells dotted along the coast, we crashed, without dinner. 

So, what does a red sky a night really mean...a howling gale again tomorrow?
This is our anchorage on Elba

Set the riding sail. 
All hands on deck... now!! 

We spent 3 days locked in Golfo Stella as wind howled over us.  We were spinning like a top on anchor, so had to set up the riding sail.

 Thankfully our trusty anchor held - and so did those on (most) other boats.  

When conditions settled somewhat, the Cap’n took Bruce out for a spin to see the lay of the land.  Despite the number of boats at anchor, there was little civilization (unless your need was for a beach umbrella and sun lounge) and nowhere to go.  

It seems that we had been caught between the Mistrale that blows through the Gulf of Lyon in France (at 35kts) and a Bora (40kts) blowing over Italy from Croatia.  So, rather like Napoleon, we too were detained on Elba.  At least he had a fashionable townhouse, a country villa (furnished with a mistress, naturally), servants and a navy (but only one ship – just like us!).

Not to be outdone, we at least did not suffer quite the same fate as Percy Byce Shelley in 1822.  Sadly, this poet, famous even at the young age of 30, drowned in the Gulf of Spezia area after a storm overtook his sailboat while he was visiting Livorno. His body washed ashore weeks later.

Finally, a brief respite in conditions presented itself, so it was yet another early rise and long day motoring to seek shelter in the expansive harbour and pleasant village of Le Grazie.  This, we decided, was as far north as we planned to go.  The Mistrale had been far too a regular companion of Med France since we started watching forecasts in Naples.  Anchoring in strong winds, in busy, choppy harbours would not be enjoyable.  We would make for Corsica and then on to the Balearics.  After a few days rest and some more sightseeing, it would be –“Spain, (to haulout) here we come!!

•  (We are slightly behind with the blog at this stage and as the plan is to head off first thing for Corsica tomorrow - for a brief interlude - we may not have internet until the Balearics.  If nothing else, the map & tracker will be updated when the opportunity presents itself.  Florence is just more photos of statues and paintings anyway!)

Rockin’ Round the Amalfi Coast

At anchor in Cape Palinuro

Amalfi Coast, Italy

Legend, myth and history continued to journey north with us.  Our first stop was the most idyllic setting of Cape Palinuro where only 4 of us could squeeze into a delightful little harbour for a peaceful night’s sleep.  Palinurus, helmsman of Aeneas’s ship, fell overboard here, exhausted from battle with Scyla and Charybdis.  A shrine in his memory is said to have been raised nearby.  In case you were wondering like me, Aeneas is a Trojan hero, who led exiled Trojans to settle near Rome.  He is considered the ancestor of Romulus and Remus.  Julius Caesar also traced his lineage back to Aeneas as did King Arthur of Britain.  Just who could make this stuff up?

Further up the coast and anchored in the midst of a flotilla of happy day trippers, we considered popping in to Agropoli, closest port to the famous Doric temples of Paestum.  Frightened off by public transport connections and our ever-slipping schedule, we decided against spending a day at these classic Greek temples and continued on for an afternoon glide-by of the modern-day hedonistic dream, the Amalfi coast, instead. 

One of the picturesque towns along the Amalfi coast

So, these are the rocks made famous by singing Sirens!! 
Odysseus had himself tied to the mast to hear those infamous Sirens sing!

This coastline is rather steep and for many, it’s a case of looking down.  For us, it was looking up and up.  Massive cliffs drop vertically into the sea, punctuated by the odd ravine laden with quaint villages and remnants of fortifications.  After Turkey and Greece, hillsides seem lush with greenery and sculptured umbrella pines.  The famous Amalfi coastal drive weaves its way around and through all this and you can appreciate why this setting has been a favourite holiday destination since ancient Roman times. 

We joined a watery “highway” at the base of the cliffs, seriously overloaded with craft of all sizes, and learned very quickly of an apparent trend to disregard, well, rules of most kind really!  Very nearly nervous wrecks, we decided to stay for a night even though quiet spots were a rare commodity.  We lasted only 30 minutes in our first anchoring choice; life was hectic being tossed by swell rebounding from cliff walls from what seemed like a zillion passing day tripper boats,.  The next anchoring location was over 140 feet deep.  As we only have 320 feet of chain (not a good ratio for peaceful night’s anchoring in this chop always preferring 5:1) a decision to take a mooring at Nerano was easily made.  But not before the hours it seemed to take to re-raise ALL that chain back into the anchor locker.  Just as well the winch forgave us for the workout it got in Vulcano Porto. 

Capri in the early morning heat haze

You could probably guess that we still did not sleep well despite the mooring.  The chop only vaguely settled at night.  Craft whizzed around us at full speed, and Mother Nature turned on a localised thunder storm whilst mini katabatics whizzed over the cliffs right above us.  

So we set off early for a quick round of Capri and a gawk at all the super yachts and their flotilla of “toys”.  This locale, a stage backdrop, is perfect for the jet set.  DH Lawrence, perhaps a little unkindly, described Capri as “a gossipy, villa-stricken, two-humped chunk of limestone, a microcosm that does heaven much credit, but mankind none at all".  Somehow we missed the Blue Grotto (not that we could have stopped) and after threading our way through even more super yachts too big for the marina, we noted a darkening sky.  Something needed to be done about our jammed main sail as it was unable to be furled back into the mast.  Mid channel seemed the perfect spot according to the Cap’n, so we made a brief, if not tense, stop to fix it.  Well then, it’s on to Torre del Greco with just a few more things to repair.

(In case you were wondering about the Ulysses/Odysseus difference, Odysseus is the legendary Greek King and hero of Homer's "The Odyssey".  Ulysses is the Roman version of his name.  Stephen Fry (2024) has written a wonderful and easy to read version of this famous story.  His 3 other related books (Mythos, Heroes, & Troy are equally as entertaining!)

At least we don't have his maintenance (or fuel) bills!

Treading Water

Could this be us in a few years time?  Just think - there's more than one!
Also note chest freezer...

You’ll be pleased to hear our time in the yard is at an end.  This year, aside from usual chores that go into setting up the boat, WJ3 shines from a good (professional) polishing, the Cap’n serviced rusty bicycles, we cleaned inside and out and GS made good use of the yard’s new laundry block.  We had to come to grips with yet another internet system, made all the more difficult due to a minor language barrier – i.e. not being able to read the instructions!  Worst of all, the bow thruster batteries had not charged in our absence and we needed an electrician to sort out the reasons for this.  Nevertheless, we had a pleasant time of it and the weather stayed relatively mild with a few storms for good measure.  However, climbing that ladder to our lofty abode never gets any easier…

Our neighbours returned with sad tales.  Their friends returned to their boat in Turkey for the start of another season, only he fell off the ladder carrying suitcases aboard and sadly didn’t survive.  We also heard that a woman in our yard had fallen and seriously hurt herself.  We double checked the ties securing our ladder for peace of mind.

Finally, we felt ready to splash.  On launching, the engine started…that’s good, but the generator again chose to be obstinate.  Hmmm!  Something more to look at whilst on anchor, we thought.  Launching Bruce (the dinghy) too was something of a concern as the outboard stubbornly refused to function. Cap’n “I’m not happy about this” now thinks it’s cruddy fuel.  Meanwhile, he vaguely wondered why his feet were getting so wet inside the dinghy.  Yes, someone had stolen our dinghy bung.  To add to post launch miseries, the bow thruster continues to be obstinate and needs more professional help.  A kind neighbour (thanks, Paul) saw our predicament and offered to ferry us to shore to check in with the Port Police and beg a berth at the Marina.   So here we sit, rafted up but afloat with not much working (sound familiar?) but at least in good spirits, thanks to quantities of Greek wine.  The mere mention of our sailing schedule reduces us to fits of hysterical laughter. 

We’re waiting on the electrician and apparently, we are going to live longer because our world is revolving in accord with Greek time (GMT = Greek Maybe Time).  We’re treading water and going nowhere real fast…

Yes....Still Waiting

Preveza Marina, Greece

Our dock lines it seems, are stuck fast.  Needless to say, it has to do with a simple part for an American engine.  In Europe they don't take kindly to importing such spares and not only must we wait for it to be sent (to Greece - and all the complications that involves) but also be slugged 23% VAT then add 50 something % import duty.  And we complain about 10% GST!!! We are on rations of bread & water (almost).

To add insult to injury, we've also had to attend to the main engine, replacing a corroded "something" and the starter (or stopper) on Bruce's outboard.  It's a late start for the 7 year itch. Technical Terminology to be provided by our Cap'n who has developed quite the swear word vocabulary.

Oh well, life could be worse, but our float plan is decidedly more like that famed Australian Boating Event, Henley on the Todd Regatta. 

Mmm, well, this might just do...no mechanical parts involved

Although this has just a little more character....

Let’s Not Go Overboard

Preveza Marina, Greece

Off at last.  Only troubles followed in our wake – computer and generator to be precise.  Even the anchor light on top of the mast decided to join in the melee by flashing madly (so not the done thing!) so we were left scratching our heads.  The Cap'n accordingly busied himself at both the high and low points of the boat to sort things out.  After anchoring off Corfu for a day or so and making little headway, we now find ourselves back in the marina in Preveza awaiting the attention of a mechanic – yet again….. 

Now for those of you who are thinking “Oh foof, it’s only the generator!” lets understand the mathematical equation of this necessary device. 

Generator = Fridge = Food = Happy Cap’n

Electric devices too (toaster, rice cooker, water heater and very occasionally air cons) are run via this most hardworking of engines.  Life on board would be Spartan indeed and the Galley Slave is in no mood to be tolerating even fewer modern conveniences.  Neither is the Cap’n thinking (yet) of installing a 12v fridge, which could be run by our daunting bank of solar panels.  I suspect electric winches are higher on the priority list.

So our schedule will be delayed and condensed by a wee bit.  And we try not to consider the sage advice of more modest (purist) sailors like the Pardeys.  Such is life in the sunny Med.

Medicine & German heritage, naturally!

Not Struck Again!

Storms off the coast.  Storms all up the coast.  Storms over the coast... 

We arrived back in the Chesapeake weaving our way through heavy black clouds, intense lightning, a couple of maydays and a wee bit of rain.  Fort Monroe too was being thrashed so our trusty Cap’n guided us up the Elizabeth River (at night and during 4^th July celebrations) to our Hospital Point anchorage, which is better for repairs and being deck potatoes anyway. 

That's IT!  Let me off at Hooters...now!

Next morning GS & BW sat, hardly awake, with early morning coffees as a neighbouring boat called out to see if we’d had much damage. “We saw the lightning hit your mast last night” he said, “didn’t you feel it?”  The Motleys were speechless…are you kidding?  “Quite spectacular really. Hit the mast and 2 forks split out from the top,” he continued. “Amazing your anchor light is still working!”  GS & BW debated who was going to break the news to the Cap’n.   Shute….

BW dashed below to check the electronics as GS shouted after them….”What time?”  “Oh, right when the fireworks were on - about 8.30 or 9pm.”  Big sigh – it couldn’t have been us then!  All sailboats look the same in the dark, obviously.

We were beginning to wonder how many superstitions (aka nautical theories) we had broken.

From:	Mill Creek off Hampton Flats	To:	Hospital Point, Norfolk
Lat/Long:	38:19.86N  76:19.80W	Lat/Long:	36:50.67N  76:17.92W
Date/Time:	3/7/11: 1440	Date/Time:	4/7/11: 2155
Time Taken:	182nm (32hrs)
Distance:	489nm (87.5hrs) (this year)	Dist Total	5867nm (since 2008)
Weather:	SW ; 10-20kts; 3-6’ seas;
Fastest Speed:	6kts (generally 4.8kts before the storm)

Kookaburra Wings & Humble Pie

The day finally came to leave Deltaville. Ship shape and rearing to go, we set off for Hampton Flats and a quaint little overnight anchorage near Fort Monroe.  After refuelling and topping up our water, we headed off out into the wild blue yonder.  It all started so well….

Not too long after midnight and 60 nautical miles off the coast, a beefy electrical storm headed by a squall overtook us with amazing speed.  BW noted wind speeds of 40kts while he and the Cap’n adjusted sails and worried about fierce lightning jabbing all around us.  GS didn’t see much from her refuge in the loo.  We had, as the Cap’n later explained over a beer in a quiet bar, been boxed around the ears a little harshly on our first night out.  You see, the storm itself was not too bad.  (Really?)  It was the broken steering wheel shaft that made us turn back for Norfolk.  None of us could imagine steering the boat 24/7 for 3 solid weeks without the autopilot.  Who knows where we would have ended up? 

GS comes up with another bright idea!

So here we sit in Norfolk at the Outback Steakhouse over a plate of Kookaburra Wings (won’t the American’s eat just about anything?) and a few pints waiting for Edson to send a replacement and for the old weld to be redone as a spare.  BW reckons we’ll have at least 5 boats towing behind WJ3 soon, all full of spares.

GS’s computer has been on strike too; a sort of a go slow moratorium. Shopping for a replacement did the trick though – and a bit of tinkering by BW.  So hopefully blogging and tracking will get back to normal in the next few days but few hopes are held for photo inclusions.

Not to be outdone, the inverter decided to pack it in (technical details to follow in the H460 blog) so that threatened 3 weeks of fresh food sitting in the fridge. Whatever the inverter didn’t kill, the heat in Norfolk has.  Our woes continue as we wait. And wait.

  

From:	Jackson Creek Deltaville	To:	Mill Creek off Hampton Flats
Lat/Long:	37:32.85N 76:19.78W	Lat/Long:	37:00.52N  76:19.11W
Date/Time:	2/7/11: 1250	Date/Time:	2/7/11: 1835
Time Taken:	40nm (7hrs)
Distance:	307nm ( 55.5hrs) (this year)	Dist Total	5679nm (since 2008)
Weather:	S; 5-10kts; 1’ seas; showers & thunderstorms
Fastest Speed:	Motor sailing 6kts

Onwards to Cape May

No, wait!  It’s Deltaville again...

Whilst we pondered our plight in Annapolis and sought advice as to how best fix our little dilemma, it became apparent that we would need to be hauled out – yet again.  An expensive but necessary repair.  Oh well.  Cap’n Concerned did the rounds of the recommended boat yards in Annapolis and discussed our predicament with all who would care to listen.  Finally, we decided that in the best interests of the Captain's nerves,  WJ3’s professional care and the Motley Crew’s internet and latte addiction, that Deltaville was the place to be. 

We know and trust the Deltaville Boat Yard, the technicians are all first class at what they do and we felt WJ3 would be in very good hands.  So here we are again, waiting for the part to arrive from Edson, and hoping for a short stay out of the water….  

Meanwhile, GS & BW are in the pool!

Me and the Other Woman having a little cry (JGP Photo)