At dusk, with
20nm down and off an aptly named Giglio (actually it means lilies) we experienced
a couple of strange events. Firstly, a large
fishing boat was towing another, whilst a small coast guard boat danced around
them. We provided some much needed
relief from the tedium obviously, so this occasioned the flashing light and a
momentary chase to ensure we were well out of the way. We didn’t have the VHF radio on, and there
was little point anyway given our limited language skills. We wondered what they said to us...
The next
item of interest was a low line of grey cloud hovering in our path. It looked so low, GS was concerned the mast
would touch it – reliving memories of lightning strikes off the US coast. “Ah,” said the Cap’n, “that would be our
front arriving. Predicted winds from the
NW (yes, our direction to Elba, of course) at 10-15kts.” We also noticed clouds piling up along the
coast.
Passing
through the front was fine, the waters disturbed but not challenging. Breaking free of it however told another
story. Winds built up to 20-25 kts
fairly quickly and with a steep swell and current against us, the last miles in
trampoline conditions took FOREVER. GS succumbed
in the final hours yet managed, whilst clutching the bucket, to assist our heroic
Cap’n furl the main at the mast (the furling line in the cockpit was slipping). Equipment difficulties always seem to occur in dreadful conditions! Finally an anchorage on the south coast of
Elba was in site - in the dead of night and two hours later than predicted. After watching an incredible electrical display
from a line of storm cells dotted along the coast, we crashed, without
dinner.
So, what does a red sky a night really mean...a howling gale again tomorrow? This is our anchorage on Elba |
We were spinning like a top on anchor so had to set the riding sail. All hands on deck |
A brief respite in
conditions presented itself, so it was yet another early rise and long day motoring
to seek shelter in the expansive harbour and pleasant village of Le
Grazie. This, we decided, was as far
north as we planned to go. The Mistrale
had been far too a regular companion of Med France since we started watching forecasts
in Naples. Anchoring in strong winds, in
busy, choppy harbours would not be enjoyable.
We would make for Corsica and then on to the Balearics. After a few days rest and some more sightseeing,
it would be –“Spain, here we come!!
(We are slightly behind with the blog at this stage and as the plan is to head off first thing for Corsica tomorrow - for a brief interlude - we may not have internet until the Balearics. If nothing else, the map & tracker will be updated when the opportunity presents itself. Florence is just more photos of statues and paintings anyway!)
(We are slightly behind with the blog at this stage and as the plan is to head off first thing for Corsica tomorrow - for a brief interlude - we may not have internet until the Balearics. If nothing else, the map & tracker will be updated when the opportunity presents itself. Florence is just more photos of statues and paintings anyway!)
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