Detained on Elba

La Spezia, Italy

The island of Elba was next on our list, so we planned to break the journey mid-way at an anchorage sheltered from prevailing winds.  Despite an adverse current, we made good time with a pleasant southerly pushing us along.  Yes, we even sailed for a few hours!  However, the southerly freshened up in the late afternoon and it became apparent that our anchorage would be less than attractive in the onshore swell.  The Cap’n consulted various weather oracles and declared that despite a forecast late evening change, we could make it to Elba, albeit in the early hours.  There was only 40 miles to go. 

At dusk, with 20nm down and off an aptly named Giglio (actually it means lilies) we experienced a couple of strange events.  Firstly, a large fishing boat was towing another, whilst a small coast guard boat danced around them.  We provided some much needed relief from the tedium obviously, so this occasioned the flashing light and a momentary chase to ensure we were well out of the way.  We didn’t have the VHF radio on, and there was little point anyway given our limited language skills. We wondered what they said to us... 

The next item of interest was a low line of grey cloud hovering in our path.  It looked so low, GS was concerned the mast would touch it – reliving memories of lightning strikes off the US coast.  “Ah,” said the Cap’n, “that would be our front arriving.  Predicted winds from the NW (yes, our direction to Elba, of course) at 10-15kts.”  We also noticed clouds piling up along the coast. 

Passing through the front was fine, the waters disturbed but not challenging.  Breaking free of it however told another story.  Winds built up to 20-25 kts fairly quickly and with a steep swell and current against us, the last miles in trampoline conditions took FOREVER.  GS succumbed in the final hours yet managed, whilst clutching the bucket, to assist our heroic Cap’n furl the main at the mast (the furling line in the cockpit was slipping).  Equipment difficulties  always seem to occur in dreadful conditions!  Finally an anchorage on the south coast of Elba was in site - in the dead of night and two hours later than predicted.  After watching an incredible electrical display from a line of storm cells dotted along the coast, we crashed, without dinner. 

So, what does a red sky a night really mean...a howling gale again tomorrow?
This is our anchorage on Elba

Set the riding sail. 
All hands on deck... now!! 

We spent 3 days locked in Golfo Stella as wind howled over us.  We were spinning like a top on anchor, so had to set up the riding sail.

 Thankfully our trusty anchor held - and so did those on (most) other boats.  

When conditions settled somewhat, the Cap’n took Bruce out for a spin to see the lay of the land.  Despite the number of boats at anchor, there was little civilization (unless your need was for a beach umbrella and sun lounge) and nowhere to go.  

It seems that we had been caught between the Mistrale that blows through the Gulf of Lyon in France (at 35kts) and a Bora (40kts) blowing over Italy from Croatia.  So, rather like Napoleon, we too were detained on Elba.  At least he had a fashionable townhouse, a country villa (furnished with a mistress, naturally), servants and a navy (but only one ship – just like us!).

Not to be outdone, we at least did not suffer quite the same fate as Percy Byce Shelley in 1822.  Sadly, this poet, famous even at the young age of 30, drowned in the Gulf of Spezia area after a storm overtook his sailboat while he was visiting Livorno. His body washed ashore weeks later.

Finally, a brief respite in conditions presented itself, so it was yet another early rise and long day motoring to seek shelter in the expansive harbour and pleasant village of Le Grazie.  This, we decided, was as far north as we planned to go.  The Mistrale had been far too a regular companion of Med France since we started watching forecasts in Naples.  Anchoring in strong winds, in busy, choppy harbours would not be enjoyable.  We would make for Corsica and then on to the Balearics.  After a few days rest and some more sightseeing, it would be –“Spain, (to haulout) here we come!!

•  (We are slightly behind with the blog at this stage and as the plan is to head off first thing for Corsica tomorrow - for a brief interlude - we may not have internet until the Balearics.  If nothing else, the map & tracker will be updated when the opportunity presents itself.  Florence is just more photos of statues and paintings anyway!)