Roman Sojourn

Centro Storico

Largo de Tritone

Next on the list was the historical centre, the downtown of Rome; a charismatic area full of cobbled streets, magnificent mansions, ancient monuments and medieval churches.  We used the LP walking tour for this area too, but expanded it a little to include a few other “not to be missed” features that were close to Metro Barberini, thus conserving our energy – vital at this stage! 

Palazzo Barberini is home to a large & recommended art gallery, however, our sights were set on seeing the Trevi Fountain and a host of other things, so with a brief nod to the Barberini Largo de Tritone (a fountain) off we marched to discover the hoards surrounding the Trevi Fountain, all throwing coins.  Why did we do it too?  A phenomenon known as “group-think”….  Anyway, we’ll be back, but only in another life.   The vast sums collected daily are given to various charities.

Trevi Fountain & the crowds

The fountain looks fantastic thanks to its recent restoration

Through back streets, we crossed Via del Corso into the historic centre finding our way to the Piazza Colonna, Rome’s political heart.  The impressive residence of the Italian Prime Minister (Palazzo Chigi, 17^th c) and the 30m high Column of Marcus Aurelius, carved within an inch of its life loom large in this fairly quiet area.  A little further on, and in competition, is the Palazzo di Montecitorio and its equally tall, Egyptian obelisk.  Games of power!

Column of Marcus Aurelius

Palazzo di Montecitorio

The Pantheon

Deeper into the back streets, it is almost possible to miss the enigmatic Pantheon.  Built in 27 AD as a pagan temple to “all gods”, the Pantheon was not declared a Christian church until 608. 

The dome, an example of one of Rome’s most significant architectural achievements, is still the world’s largest unreinforced concrete dome ever built.  Even understanding its brilliant engineering, it is still a sight to behold. 

Inside is an understated tomb to Renaissance artist, Raphael.

Magic of the light streaming in from the "eye" in the centre of the dome

The Chiesa di Santa Maria Sopra Minerva to the side of the Pantheon was sadly closed** however we were still able to admire Bernini’s very cute baby elephant, Elephantino.  At this point, we rested at the back of the Pantheon with large tubs of gelato – just to keep our strength up, mind!

Bernini's Elephantino with cheeky grin

Of course gelato is good for you! *Grin*

Revived and rested, it was time to tackle the Piazza Navona, a huge serving of Baroque’s flamboyancy.  Bernini created the exuberant central fountain representing the rivers of the four known continents of the world: Ganges (Asia), Nile (Africa), Danube (Europe) and Plata (America’s).   The site of the square is over an ancient monument, an arena for public games, hence its shape.  The arena fell into disrepair, finally resurrected in the 15^th c as the central market.  Now, with Bernini's help, it’s Rome’s showcase piazza.

One of Bernini's four rivers

Nearby we met Pinocchio

The Ecstasy of St Theresa (by Bernini, of course!)

Rather than continue on down to the Tiber River via the fruit & veg market, we headed back to Barberini, with a stop at the Chiesa di Santa Maria della Vittoria.  This delightful church contains Bernini’s “The Ecstasy of St Theresa” hailed as one the finest examples of European Baroque.  Hardly anyone else was in the church, so we had St Theresa almost all to ourselves.  One of the great joys of Rome is that you don’t always need to fight the crowds to see superb art.  It’s all there and available up close and personal.  The difficulty is that you really need weeks, years even, to see it all!

**When planning itineraries, check your guides for church opening times.  They all, along with shops, generally seem to observe Italy’s famous 3 hour (or more) lunch time “siesta”. 

Characterful fountains on every street corner...