Naples - A Rich Heritage

Vesuvius as those in Pompeii saw it...

Naples, Italy

By the third day, we were beginning to feel the benefits of our early morning climb to the station.  (Oh, sure!!)  Just as well plans weren’t made to stay in Torre del Greco for a week! 

After a short but crowed train journey to Naples, we arrived at Naples main station, Garibaldi.  Renovations are ongoing - part of an attempt to modernise and clean up the inner city (well, from the outside!).  The piazza opposite is quite grand and it appeared to contain an underground shopping centre but our attentions were elsewhere – on “Operation Safe Streets”, a military or police presence (we assume following on from the tragedy in Nice) and to more humble things – an internet connection.  

Naples is one of those places that at once can either make you cringe or take your breath away.  Buildings are covered in grime, streets are covered in litter (or doggie do) yet there are gems aplenty.  It is quite maddening and frustrating a city, yet one ultimately that you are so glad you visited. 

Our guide books were not clear on the best options to get to the Archaeological Museum, so with a toss of a coin we made a choice that led us a little off the beaten tourist path.  We also discovered our tourist map (taken from a guide book) was less than helpful.  Still, on we pressed until out of the maze, stood the magnificent 16^th c Musseo Archeologico Nazionale with all its treasures from the Farnese Family Collection, Naples, Pompeii and Herculaneum. 

 

Even the rooster's feathers are made up of tiny mosaic pieces

Contained within, there are many highlights and many discoveries.  We learned that inventive Romans often used Greek statues, merely swapping heads to achieve “ready-made” figures of emperors.  Luckily, they did not get to modify Hercules, who managed to keep his head; Napoleon didn’t add him to his take-home booty either!  We were also treated to the mosaic floor from the House of the Faun (Pompeii), the “Battle of Alexander and Darius” and a host of others made with such incredibly tiny pieces it would seem impossible to even stitch them.  A fresco collection included those in “The Secret Cabinet”, a sedate mix that nowadays might barely make schoolboys blush.  In Pompeii, graffiti scratched on the walls of houses of ill repute, tells us that such advertisements did not always live up to their promises anyway!  Nothing changes…

 

 

The Romans' sense of humour was evident too...

Rather than retrace our steps to the station, we lucked upon Piazza Bellini, busy with locals enjoying their afternoon siesta or lingering over a late lunch with friends and thus managed to see a little of old Naples as we strolled, in company of only a few other tourists, along Via Tribunali.  Later we discovered this narrow cobbled lane was once one of the main roads (the Decumanus Maximus) that ran through ancient Naples.  Now a pedestrian-only street, it showcases the contradictions in Naples’ character – all at once an exuberant mix of old and new, a contrast of humble worker to high fashionista, and gawking tourists to busy Neapolitans – yet all still inherently, part of any local day.  Just watch for the basket lowered on a string from the third floor to the vegetable seller below.  And note washing, strung between buildings, flapping in the breeze high above the streets.  The Cap’n made some unnecessary remark about big bloomers, but I’m not sharing!  With the train station in sight, so ended our visit to beguiling Naples!