Back to the Start: 2016

We sadly bid farewell to Jumping Fish Bay in Greece

The Windjammers have experienced our shortest season yet, cruising in an area with few places for us Aussies to “run & hide” given Schengen’s time limitations of 3 months max.  Still “weather” experiences kept us on our toes too and ensured a modified float plan.  This sadly entailed excluding Southern France (the Mistral consistently blowing with regularity & some ferocity this year) although we managed time in Corsica before taking a familiar route through the Balearics back to Lagos in Portugal.

Discovered style in Barcelona,
architect extraordinaire, Gaudi.

And hunky types in Naples
(Yes, it's Hercules)

Italy’s west coast made good its promise of few anchorages so our travels were essentially moving from marina to marina with longish stops to take in major historical sites.  Somehow, we still never seemed to have sufficient time for our “must do” list.  At least we managed to see (but not climb) some seriously interesting volcanoes and enjoy one or two bottles of local plonk (I'm not sure there's an Italian equivalent for this word).  The history was fascinating, the art incredible, people generally friendly and scenery, especially along the northern coast, quite unlike the “Med” we had grown used to.

The view over La Spezia was too good to miss

So, this blog and photo fest is due for a long Mediterranean lunch break with the possibility of a further delay before the start of next season as our vague plan is to cross back to Trinidad.  This requires avoiding hurricane season (June to Nov) and some big steps to get to a Canaries or Cape Verdes springboard.  So our timings will need to be adjusted and we just may have to experience a winter...brrrrrr!

And Italy kept us very busy;
too much to do, so little time!
Pisa. Is this really a quiet day? 

In summary, the 2016 season started in Preveza, Greece with a very short stop in Sarande, Albania.  Thus began our weather experiences and first change to the float plan… At least the weather gods were kind to us as we slid across to Sicily.  Nicely ensconced in Syracuse, we learned of Italy’s transport shortcomings but managed to make the crossing to Malta for a most enjoyable land break.  

Historically, the Messina Strait has been a sailor’s nightmare so we shouldn’t have been surprised to feel its wrath.  Swordfishing locals though, gave us a farewell salute as WJ3 battled steep waves generated by wind against current - Charybdis at play!.  At least we weren't rowing, like Odysseus, Jason (of the Argonauts) or Aeneas. (This is your history test....)  Then our anchor wanted to stay in Vulcano but after some wrestling and with a much improved weather outlook on offer, we convinced it to join us in crossing to Italy’s west coast to begin the slow crawl northwards. 

Colourful towns, festive moods

We took longish stops in Torre del Greco (Naples area), Rome, and La Spezia (Tuscany) before modifying the float plan again to include Corsica for a few days sailing down its eastern coast. Sardinia's tip provided shelter before striking out for the Balearics and back to Spain. 

With long strides along the Spanish coast we quickly made Gibraltar, where the weather gods again smiled giving us the right winds and tide to sail through notorious Gibraltar Straits.  Another interesting weather system from the far NW (UK) threatened the Atlantic coast but we made Lagos, Portugal before it took its toll.  Tucked up in the marina we hardly even noticed it! 

Our yearly figures confirm yet another distance marathon and come in as follows:

From: Preveza, Greece Lat/Long: 38:57.09N 20:46 .04E  Date/Time: 03/06/16: 1745

To: Lagos, Portugal Lat/Long: 37:06.45N 08:40.27W  Date/Time: 23/09/16: 1045
Time Taken: (this year): 383 hrs  Distance: (this year): 2248.5nm
Distance Total: (since 2008): 18,278.5nm  
Weather: Challenging weather this year, mostly Mistral generated, kept us on our toes
Fastest Speed: We had a mixed bag with some really great sailing weather and some really dreadful conditions too.  But it’s the Med!  And mostly motoring continues at a sedate 6 - 6.5kts.

We will post as plans for 2017 develop, so keep tuned to this space!

And a few stray volcanoes on our way.  A busy year indeed!

Going Gothic

Barcelona, Spain: The Old Quarter

When I go, I want my feet resting on my favourite dog too!

Given that the day’s major exercise was getting back to the airport, we eventually decided on another day just walking Barri Gotic, the old quarter, taking in sites, particularly around the Cathedral area, we had missed.  So, batteries recharged, we made for the Columbus Monument and Port Vell.  Strolling Passeig de Colom offers open vistas over the modern marina and port; a taste of the restructured and modern Barcelona.

Columbus Monument

Crustaceans everywhere 

Salami anyone?

And more graffiti

The Columbus Monument marks the foot of La Rambla, so we joined many others to wander its length until we reached the heart of the Gothic Quarter, thankfully unscathed.  La Rambla is said to be pickpocket central!  

Our plan now was for a more in depth investigation of an area chosen by the Carthaginians (Hannibal’s father, Hamilcar Barca) in 230 BC to settle.  This historical event is apparently disputed – well, actually considered more of a myth (see Wiki)!  Another favourite myth is that our boy about town, Hercules, also founded the city, literally naming it after the ninth boat in his fleet. He was in grand company too, sailing with Jason & the Argonauts.  Romans eventually followed, naming the town Barcino.  At least we were able to see obvious remains of their settlement. 

Turning off Carrer de Ferran, (sadly not noticing Palau Guell, Gaudi’s first commission by his wealthy arts patron) into Placa de Sant Jaume, we looked for remains of the old Roman forum.  Now, it’s a square busy with visitors admiring Barcelona’s 14^th c Town Hall.  Opposite is the Palau de la Generalita, another magnificent palace.  Adorned with a sculpture of St George, Catalonia’s Patron Saint, this has been the city’s seat of government since 1403. 

The Cathedral draws crowds

Up on the Cathedral roof

Visible down narrow side streets, the Cathedral beckoned.  However it was closed briefly for a period of “visitor respite” - much to the annoyance of tour guides who quickly rescheduled walking group itineraries.  While we waited, we explored the entrance of the very pretty Casa de l’Ardiaca.  Built on the back of an old Roman wall opposite the Cathedral, this building was once the archdeacon’s residence although now it serves to hold the city’s historical archives.

Inside the Cathedral

A Caribbean Saint (Montserrat, I think)

Doesn't everyone need a Guard Goose or seven? 
In the Cathedral courtyard keeping honest people honest...

The Cathedral, built in 1298 over the remains of a Roman temple and Moorish mosque, is Catalan style Gothic. Considered compact, it still makes quite an impact on visitors with slender columns, a single nave, lots of side chapels devoted to various saints and stunning arches reaching for the stars. 

In 1493, when Columbus arrived in Barcelona from the New World, he was given a state welcome by Fernando & Isabel at the nearby Royal Palace (now the Barcelona History Museum).  Six Caribbean Indians who returned with him were baptised in the Cathedral (having converted to Christianity, as one would in that situation!).  A plaque near the font records this event.  Despite a large crowd inside, few took advantage of the lift to the roof.  We found a great city panorama, a very interesting roofline and a close-up view of the octagonal bell towers.  Honking geese in the cloister were pretty interesting too, although we did wonder about it!

Vegan cats would go down well at home too!

A quick inspection of market stalls (brimming with “antiques”) set up in front of the Cathedral followed by a quick dash into the Museum bookshop for a more concise guide on Gaudi’s architectural delights, left us with insufficient time to explore the History Museum itself.  With its extensive Roman ruins (subterranean, so it could have been rather good fun!) and Royal Palace rooms where Columbus was received in 1493 & later the Inquisition convened, it was just so hard to walk away - should have booked a longer stay!  But, move on  we must...  

So, we followed our noses back through the old streets finding interesting people, shops, food and architectural features until we arrived back somehow at the Mercat del Born, another site brimming with Roman remains and strangely enough, the area of an old Roman market.  It was time then to pack up and say our reluctant farewells to this delightful city.  With bags crammed full (and now rather heavy!), we headed for the Aerobus to begin the long road home.

Some of the delightful artwork inside the Cathedral

Roman walls &  Palace buildings beside the Cathedral

Walking & Talking (Part 2)

Florence, Italy: Day 2.  Getting to know all about you!

Capital of Abundance:
the only remaining feature
of the old square

After taking stock of the Duomo and admiring Giotto’s Campanile (Bell Tower), it was time to glide down wide streets to Piazza della Repubblica, once a central marketplace and Jewish quarter, demolished in 1860’s to create a public space befitting an Italian national capital. 

The mantle of capital was later reassigned to Rome, so now, other than a few reminders of those days such as the Triumphal Arch and a lone free standing pillar, the area is now assigned to glamorous cafes, exhausted shoppers and selfie-taking sightseers.  The square was once considered the "lounge" of Florence.

(For those interested in all things art, Futurist Movement ideologies were launched here in 1909 by intellectuals of the day from popular cafe, Guibbe Rosse.) 

You could be forgiven for not noticing the nearby Church of Unionists, Orsanmichele, for it looks remarkably “warehouse”.  It began life as a grain store but following a revamp in the 14^th c, its exterior was studded with 14 niches, each given over to a patron saint of a trade Guild of its time; John the Baptist (Textiles Guild), St George (Armourers Guild) and St Mark (Linen Drapers Guild) to name but a few.  Needless to say, most sculptures were completed by celebrated Renaissance artists.

This (left) is St Mathew, by Ghiberti for the Cambio Bankers.  So, even bankers and lawyers had patron saints.  I wonder if they still do!    

 

Trying to get a photo without someone's hand patting his nose or putting a
coin in his mouth was almost impossible. Clearly, we all subscribe to superstition!

Turn the corner and Logge del Mercato Nuovo, a covered market (revamped in 1574), greets visitors with a variety of stalls, nowadays all bulging with souvenirs.  Beside it though, is the tourist magnet, Fontana del Porcellino, Florence’s famous porker.  Rub his brass nose to return to Florence or put a coin in his mouth for good luck.  Either way, you just can’t help but get into the spirit of these things, and like the Lottery or even the Fountain of Youth, it’s a case of good hope.

Giambologna's
Rape of the Sabine Women

Cellini's
Perseus triumphs over Medusa

Palazzo Vecchio

After a quick chat with the pig, we made our way to the decidedly interesting Piazza Signoria, its odd shape arrived at after a period of “political instability”.  Houses of a defeated faction were demolished and families banished - well, those that weren’t annihilated in the course of settling the dispute!  The dominant feature of this space considered Florence’s political stage, is the vast bulk of Palazzo Vecchio impaled by its medieval, almost slender, bell tower.  Various sculptures dot the open space, including copy #1 of David, Neptune looking decidedly WWF wrestling material and a few newer, brassy ones.  These we suspect were part of a “contemporary” exhibition installed at Palazzo Vecchio. 

To one side, the Loggia della Signoria shelters other statuary of such significance it seems amazing that it’s left “outside”.  Hercules energetically subdues a centaur (Giambologna), Perseus triumphantly holds aloft a severed head (Cellini) whilst in front of the Palazzo, another Hercules (can you ever have enough?) by Bandinelli subdues Cacus.  The square, the buildings and statuary were symbolic of the Republic’s victory over tyranny and civic solidarity; a not so subtle reminder of a ending of fate befalling anyone considering a bit of competition with Florence. 

"Hercules Slaying the Centaur" by Giambologna under
the Loggia della Signoria. The message is quite clear...

By now, our minds were beginning to glaze over and we regretted (Well, GS did for sure!!) such a short stay.  We had hardly walked any distance at all and there was so much to see, do and learn.  I knew I should have offered that porker at the market more money!  Still, on we charged into the Uffizi forecourt lined with statues of Florence’s greats.  The Uffizi is a huge complex and mostly given over to a collection of paintings considered Italy’s best.  That was tomorrow’s excursion, so on we continued to Ponte Vecchio.

Ponte Vecchio over the River Arno

Cellini

We could have been in Venice back in those days!  Ponte Vecchio spans the Arno now in the same form that it did in 1345 – a triple arch, loaded with shops.  Although in its day, the proprietors were butchers, fishmongers, tanners and the like who needed access to lots of water.  Today, those same establishments are home to goldsmiths and jewellers - since 1593 no less! 

A top corridor, over the shops on the bridge, links the Uffizi with the Palazzo Pitti,  constructed so that Cosimo (or maybe it was Mrs Cosimo) did not have to mingle with the plebs to get across the street.  Actually, it was Mrs Cosimo who purchased the very grand and spacious Pitti as she found Palazzo Vecchio too cramped for her taste; the lions (caged at the back of the palace) too smelly and the Swiss Guards too noisy!  The lions were a symbol of Medici might; Mrs Cosimo must have been quite an authority too! 

So ended our tour, fighting off those seeking a selfie opportunity at the bridge next to Cellini’s bust and a perfect view down river.  The Cap’n managed to keep a close eye on the First Mate as she surreptitiously cased all the shops with their sparkling gold trinkets on offer.  Although we may not have covered everyone’s list of top ten (actually twelve!) sites in Florence, our tour did rather well, particularly for us.  The big decision now, was what to do in our free time before the following afternoon’s Uffizi tour.

 

Perhaps we could just gaze out the window (overlooking the Duomo and Bell Tower) from our hotel room.  Yes indeed, that view was really something!!!

 And finally, for those truly obsessed, below are just a few of the statues of important personages lining the Uffizi Courtyard.

Giotto: Medieval Period

Donatello: Early Renaissance

 

Michelangelo: High Renaissance

 "Lump the whole thing!  

Say that the Creator made Italy from designs by Michael Angelo!"

Mark Twain, 1869 in "Innocents Abroad"

Roman Encounter

Day 3: And our Best of the Rest... of Rome

The Spanish Steps are closed!  What do we do now?

Back into the city and our Metro stop was Spagne (said "sparn yah").  Can’t you always tell a tourist by their pronunciation of names….  From there it was only a hop down to see the Spanish Steps.  All closed off to the public in the height of the season for restoration!  Yes, that’s just Italy for you!  Tourists stood in a daze, waiting perhaps for something to happen.  We took brief note of the boat shaped fountain (by Bernini’s father) and Keats’ House where he died in 1821. 

An opera singer serenades us

Italy was of course, incorporated in the Grand Tour when young men of good fortune came to study the classics and find themselves.  Perhaps the closest we (Australians) ever came to such a literary epiphany was the artists colonies on Hydra, Greece ("Peel Me a Lotus” by Charmian Clift & yes, I’m probably being rather mean!). Now a museum dedicated to Keats, Shelley and Byron, it’s on every trail of every literary buff in town.

Our jaunt took us down Via Frattina, deep in fashionista heartland.  Big Names kept popping up and so did price tags too.  Even the buskers kept the experience up a notch; an opera singer serenaded us with great gusto.  We did stop for brunch; delicate sandwiches and teeny coffees, right opposite YSL in nearby Piazza San Lorenza in Luccina.  The people watching was well worth it.  

Someone (a very rich someone) was buried in this once.... Museo Nazionale

Hercules looking grim

From there it was a reasonable stroll to the Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo Altemps**.  Just to confuse you, museums seem spread over a number of buildings, making good use of the available palazzo (palaces).  The Palazzo Altemps was a fantastic combo of palace and museum so we were able to see how the other half really lived, as it were!  You also find yourself wondering about the might of the Church too as many of the pieces are from the Ludovisi Collection.  He was just one of many Cardinals, wealthy families & others who amassed significant private collections over the years.  Aside from the quality of the collections in the Palazzo Altemps, its best feature (for us anyway) was that it was not crammed full of visitors.  This meant the First Mate could have a quiet chat with Hercules; there were several renditions of him, so it took a while….

Odysseus - at last a portrait
(Ulysses to Romans) 

Our next move was those Omni Tickets** to the Vatican.  As previously mentioned, finding the Roma Cristiana office was quite a quest but we knew it was our only hope of getting into the Vatican Museum in August (this year!).  We decided to walk via the Tiber River, passing Ponte Sant Angelo wondering if we would ever have time to call at the mysterious Castel (we didn’t).   Eventually we found someone who pointed us in the right direction and with tickets (not for Wednesday, that’s the Pope’s Audience Day) confirmed for Thursday, we jumped the #40 bus (said to be pickpocket central) to the Station.

**Our Roma Pass gave us discounted entry to Museo Nazionale Romano Museum.  Aside from using the Pass on our first day, this was the only other paid entry fee we used it for (given our very full but time-poor  schedule!)  We certainly got great value for money when calculating everything including our transport costs.  As to the Omni Passes, the included bus ride gave us a quick overview of Rome (all stops churches) though luckily, a stop for us at the nearest church to the station.  I doubt I would ever use these again.   However, paying for skip the line"" into the Vatican was most certainly worth it ! 

Castel Sant' Angelo built in 135AD for Hadrian
with Bernini's angels ceremoniously lining the bridge

Naples - A Rich Heritage

Vesuvius as those in Pompeii saw it...

Naples, Italy

By the third day, we were beginning to feel the benefits of our early morning climb to the station.  (Oh, sure!!)  Just as well plans weren’t made to stay in Torre del Greco for a week! 

After a short but crowed train journey to Naples, we arrived at Naples main station, Garibaldi.  Renovations are ongoing - part of an attempt to modernise and clean up the inner city (well, from the outside!).  The piazza opposite is quite grand and it appeared to contain an underground shopping centre but our attentions were elsewhere – on “Operation Safe Streets”, a military or police presence (we assume following on from the tragedy in Nice) and to more humble things – an internet connection.  

Naples is one of those places that at once can either make you cringe or take your breath away.  Buildings are covered in grime, streets are covered in litter (or doggie do) yet there are gems aplenty.  It is quite maddening and frustrating a city, yet one ultimately that you are so glad you visited. 

Our guide books were not clear on the best options to get to the Archaeological Museum, so with a toss of a coin we made a choice that led us a little off the beaten tourist path.  We also discovered our tourist map (taken from a guide book) was less than helpful.  Still, on we pressed until out of the maze, stood the magnificent 16^th c Musseo Archeologico Nazionale with all its treasures from the Farnese Family Collection, Naples, Pompeii and Herculaneum. 

 

Even the rooster's feathers are made up of tiny mosaic pieces

Contained within, there are many highlights and many discoveries.  We learned that inventive Romans often used Greek statues, merely swapping heads to achieve “ready-made” figures of emperors.  Luckily, they did not get to modify Hercules, who managed to keep his head; Napoleon didn’t add him to his take-home booty either!  We were also treated to the mosaic floor from the House of the Faun (Pompeii), the “Battle of Alexander and Darius” and a host of others made with such incredibly tiny pieces it would seem impossible to even stitch them.  A fresco collection included those in “The Secret Cabinet”, a sedate mix that nowadays might barely make schoolboys blush.  In Pompeii, graffiti scratched on the walls of houses of ill repute, tells us that such advertisements did not always live up to their promises anyway!  Nothing changes…

 

 

The Romans' sense of humour was evident too...

Rather than retrace our steps to the station, we lucked upon Piazza Bellini, busy with locals enjoying their afternoon siesta or lingering over a late lunch with friends and thus managed to see a little of old Naples as we strolled, in company of only a few other tourists, along Via Tribunali.  Later we discovered this narrow cobbled lane was once one of the main roads (the Decumanus Maximus) that ran through ancient Naples.  Now a pedestrian-only street, it showcases the contradictions in Naples’ character – all at once an exuberant mix of old and new, a contrast of humble worker to high fashionista, and gawking tourists to busy Neapolitans – yet all still inherently, part of any local day.  Just watch for the basket lowered on a string from the third floor to the vegetable seller below.  And note washing, strung between buildings, flapping in the breeze high above the streets.  The Cap’n made some unnecessary remark about big bloomers, but I’m not sharing!  With the train station in sight, so ended our visit to beguiling Naples!

 

 
 

Hercules on Holiday

Ercolano Scarvi (Herculaneum), Italy.  Just when you thought you were done with ruins!

Ercolano (modern city) sits right over the Herculaneum ruins

Wall to left indicates the level of mud. This was once
the Port area of the city, at the water's edge.  Not now.

Hercules must have been a very busy boy as we had found yet another city (this one once buried under a sea of mud) said to have been founded by him.  

Following Vesuvius’s eruption in 79 AD, Herculaneum was sadly, another of its victims.  It is thought that not so many perished in this event, although a grim reminder of untimely death has been brought to light in dockside warehouses.

Once an elaborate villa

Street-side Bar & Fast Food

This once exclusive resort town on the edge of the Bay of Naples was patronised by many wealthy aristocrats.  In turn, such patronage attracted numerous talented craftsmen so we are left with an incredible legacy of mosaics, frescoes and sculptures.  One of the features of the site is an abundance of timber structures preserved by the mud (unlike Pompeii where timber burned).  One house, not opened for our visit, contained a small wooden cross which is considered one of the Roman Empire’s oldest Christian relics. 

Tomb of Marcus Nonius Balbus on the Terrace named for him

Grinding stone in the Baker's shop

Water Fountains were all decorated

Ercolano scarvi (ruins) are not nearly as large as Pompeii and are far more sheltered.  It requires little imagination however, looking down into the site, to see how much mud must have covered the town and how much more must lie buried beneath it still.  

Modern day Ercolano, built atop these ruins also hinders further excavation.  Although not quite so romantic as Pompeii, the ruins reveal a sense of life in this busy sea-side resort; enough for it to be declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.  Again, artefacts in the NMA in Naples add rich detail, although at times like this, it would be good to have on hand one of those computer-generated “fill-in-the-blanks” programs to see it as it might once have been.

College of the Augustales with its Hercules frescoes

Hercules in contest with River Arcelous 

Locals hiding in Port warehouses were suffocated by mud & fumes

We were not given any information/maps of Herculaneum with our ticket purchase and had to navigate using an old, out-of-date 2003 guide (yes, we're cheap!).  Most features were signposted though, however, we refrained from taking photos of them all.  Google will help fill in the gaps later - hopefully!

That said, we were free to wander and explore to our heart's content.  There were no guided tours, freelancing guides or even many visitors.  This made Herculaneum feel even more special than Pompeii as we felt so very close to it.  It was a humbling, if not spooky experience, in this city of lost souls.