Monday, October 24, 2016

Going Gothic

Barcelona

When I go, I want my feet resting on my favourite dog too!

Given that the day’s major exercise was getting back to the airport, we eventually decided on another day just walking Barri Gotic, the old quarter, taking in sites, particularly around the Cathedral area, we had missed.  So, batteries recharged, we made for the Columbus Monument and Port Vell.  Strolling Passeig de Colom offers open vistas over the modern marina and port; a taste of the restructured and modern Barcelona.
 

Columbus Monument
Crustaceans everywhere 

Salami anyone?
And more graffiti

The Columbus Monument marks the foot of La Rambla, so we joined many others to wander its length until we reached the heart of the Gothic Quarter.  The plan was for a more thorough investigation of an area chosen by the Carthaginians (Hannibal’s father, Hamilcar Barca) in 230 BC to settle*.  Romans followed, naming the town Barcino.  At least we can see obvious remains of their settlement. 


Turning off Carrer de Ferran, (sadly not noticing Palau Guell, Gaudi’s first commission by the wealthy arts patron) into Placa de Sant Jaume, we looked for remains of the old Roman forum.  Now, it’s a square busy with visitors admiring Barcelona’s 14th c Town Hall.  Opposite is the Palau de la Generalita, another magnificent palace.  Adorned with a sculpture of St George, Catalonia’s Patron Saint, this has been the city’s seat of government since 1403. 

The Cathedral draws crowds
Up on the Cathedral roof

Visible down narrow side streets, the Cathedral beckoned.  However it was closed briefly for a period of “visitor respite” - much to the annoyance of tour guides who quickly rescheduled walking group itineraries.  While we waited, we explored the entrance of the very pretty Casa de l’Ardiaca.  Built on the back of an old Roman wall opposite the Cathedral, this building was once the archdeacon’s residence although now it serves to hold the city’s historical archives.

Inside the Cathedral
A Caribbean Saint (Montserrat, I think)

Doesn't everyone need a Guard Goose or seven?

The Cathedral, built in 1298 over the remains of a Roman temple and Moorish mosque, is Catalan style Gothic. Considered compact, it still makes quite an impact on visitors with slender columns, a single nave, lots of side chapels devoted to various saints and stunning arches reaching for the stars. 

In 1493, when Columbus arrived in Barcelona from the New World, he was given a state welcome by Fernando & Isabel at the nearby Royal Palace (now the Barcelona History Museum).  Six Caribbean Indians who returned with him were baptised in the Cathedral (having converted to Christianity, as one would in that situation!).  A plaque near the font records this event.  Despite a large crowd inside, few took advantage of the lift to the roof.  We found a great city panorama, a very interesting roofline and a close-up view of the octagonal bell towers.  Honking geese in the cloister were pretty interesting too, although we did wonder about it!


Vegan cats would go down well at home!

A quick inspection of market stalls (brimming with “antiques”) set up in front of the Cathedral followed by a quick dash into the Museum bookshop for a more concise guide on Gaudi’s architectural delights, left us with insufficient time to explore the History Museum itself.  With its extensive Roman ruins (subterranean, so it could have been rather good fun!) and Royal Palace rooms where Columbus was received in 1493 & later the Inquisition convened, it was hard to move on.  Instead, we followed our noses back through the old streets finding interesting people, shops, food and architectural features until we arrived back somehow at the Mercat del Born, another site brimming with Roman remains and strangely enough, the area of an old Roman market.  It was time then to pack up and say our reluctant farewells to this delightful city.  With bags crammed full (and now rather heavy!), we headed for the Aerobus to begin the long road home.

Some of the delightful artwork inside the Cathedral

Roman walls &  Palace buildings beside the Cathedral

* This historical event is apparently disputed – well, actually considered more of a myth (Wiki)!  Another favourite myth is that our boy about town, Hercules, also founded the city, literally naming it after the ninth boat in his fleet. He was in grand company too, sailing with Jason & the Argonauts....

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