Catalan Style - Modernisme (Part 2)

Barcelona, Spain: Parc Guell & Passeig de Gracia

Admiring Gaudi's Park Guell detail

From La Sagrada Familia, we took a bus to Park Guell, a Modernist park set on Carmel Hill, above and on the outskirts of Barcelona.  Guell’s plan called for a private and exclusive housing estate offering gardens, fresh air and panoramic vistas over Barcelona.  Only two houses (1904) of the sixty planned were ever built, and at Guell’s suggestion, Gaudi moved onto the estate (Casa Gaudi) to begin work on developing it.  

After Guell’s death, his family donated the estate for use as a public park.  His mansion now houses a public school and some areas of the park entail an entrance fee to better manage its heritage listed features. Gaudi’s house is a museum which sadly we had no time to visit.

Save your broken dinner plates & tiles...

View over Barcelona & Park Guell Entrance Gates

Gaudi's most famous character; imagine the time needed to mosaic this beast!

Gaudi's House in Park Guell

Oh look, it comes with a pixie too!

After an hour exploring Park Guell, we made our way back down to the city’s prestigious shopping precinct, Passeig de Gracia, to the “Block of Discord" so called because the buildings clash with each other and neighbouring buildings.  

This city block is best known for its Moderniste buildings, showcasing the work of four main exponent architects.  Our key interest was Gaudi (of course!) so we alighted at Casa Mila, also known as La Pedrera (stone quarry).  This 8 storeyed block, previously apartments, was designed around two circular courtyards.  The building’s white stone façade undulates fluidly, like waves on an ocean; iron balustrading highlighting this theme, resembed seaweed.  In the afternoon light Casa Mila’s white tiled roof sparkled, beautifully evoking Spain’s snowy mountain tops.  It is possible to visit parts of the building (now office space) so we added that to our growing “Maybe List” for a last day in Barcelona splurge.  And that would be tomorrow!

Casa Mila

Casa Mila's organic shapes

A short stroll down Passeig de Gracia, passing way too many high end fashion boutiques, we came to the front of Casa Batllo.  This building is said to symbolise St George killing the dragon, with its bold scaly roof scattered with claw-like chimneys and a garlic-shaped dome.  Spindly columns led to the building being nick-named the “House of Bones”, while balconies appear clad with giant masks.  Salvador Dali (another very creative Catalan artist) is said to have referenced the building to a stormy sea.  Either way, it is incredibly individual, detailed, colourful and intricate – quite overwhelming even today.  It’s difficult to imagine such a departure from “standard” and cultural architectural models of the day.  Parts of this building are also open for public inspection, so we added that to our List too.    

Sadly, the colours don't show in
the afternoon shadows

Close up of bone-like columns
and skull-like balconies 

Casa Batllo’s close neighbours include fascinating Casa Amatller (by Cadafalch) and decorative Casa Lleo Morera, now fronted by an exclusive Catalan boutique.  We were able to walk into Casa Amatller’s tiled patio entrance and peer up at a stunning glass skylight.  Just tempters for yet another guided tour to learn more about this movement and the incredible constructions arrived at as a consequence.

Casa Amatller

Decorative details are so inspiring....

Catalan pride - St George giving it to that naughty dragon

We didn’t finish our tour until well after 7.30pm (quite early for the Spaniard!), so decided to walk back through the Barri Gotic, losing ourselves to the evocative streets of old Barcelona.  We found a spot to eat frequented by young locals who clearly live in and love their city, and ordered an express plate – a ready-picked, rather delicious tapas selection.  Focusing on the food made us forget those challenging decisions we had to make for our next day’s program.  Too. Many. Choices!