Slow Drift

For sanity's sake, we stopped counting bridges
and overhead electrical cables along the ICW

Our second night tied to Coinjock Dock was a quiet & calm delight.  Well rested, we then began the process of running very long days along the ICW until we could (hopefully) find an inlet (preferably, a wide, shipping channel) out to the Gulf Stream and slip down the outside (i.e. along the coast) to our RV destination.  First exit considered was Beaufort, NC (winds too strong), then next opportunity was Cape Fear River (there’s that name again!) and still no weather relief.  Finally, we managed a good day, the GPS was working at last and we even had an outgoing tide to slide out at Charleston.  So out into the wild blue we charged.  All went well until the evening when winds and rain resumed from the north and we banged and crashed our way 140nm south until GS called for mercy.  No, she could NOT take a further punishing 100nm down to Fort Pierce, so early next morning, taking care not to tread on any more submarine tails, we entered at St Mary’s River near Fernandina Beach. Florida, we have arrived!  Oh my, but it's still rather chilly!

Stunning sunset over our Alligator River anchorage

A strong wind was howling over a busy Fernandina anchorage.  It was jam-packed with boats waiting to head north.  After 20 seconds of consideration, WJ3’s anchor was lifted and off we moved, further south along the ICW; the Cap’n clocking up 36 hours straight on this run.

During our gallop down the ICW, the cold refused to relinquish its hold so we found ourselves early one morning in Bucksport SC, cracking ice off the boat.  Further excitement along the ICW was had by a chance meeting with a rather interesting drone.  The owners, perhaps a bunch of university nerds, decided we were suitable guinea pigs for a little observational study.  It dashed off in a hurry, red lights indignantly flashing, when the Cap’n produced his phone to take a photo. 

Icing up in the fog at Bucksport NC on the Waccamaw River

There's a bald eagle on top of the large tree.
What do you mean, you can't see it?

We also managed to avoid going aground this year (phew!) but just past St John’s River we hit some very strong eddies under the Atlantic Boulevard Bridge, Florida that sent WJ3 into a bit of a spin.  Next challenge was finding ourselves in rather “skinny” water off Pine Island to anchor for the night.  Even a tow was having to be pulled off muddy river banks by tugs, causing much shouting by various workmen.  We didn’t feel so bad after all!

As for wildlife sightings, we were fortunate to see a couple of alligators this year, including a rather heavy-duty guy off the Haulover Canal near Titusville, not to mention seeing manatees (dugongs) wallowing in the warmth near our Vero Beach mooring.  

And we always hold our breath so as not to meet a tow
in the middle of the swampy Stumpy Pungo

The list of boat challenges however, became increasing longer.  WJ3 was letting us know she did not want to leave Deltaville and that she was also not happy having been left alone for 3 long, lonesome years.  By Vero Beach, we had our hardworking main sail stuck inside the mast, the dingy outboard refused to work, the bow thruster battery was as dead as a doornail, our little Waeco fridge was struggling to keep cold drinks cold (NO, not hot beer again!) and our poor Cap’n was working hard at every stop to keep us afloat and going south. No rest for the wicked, so they say! 

Still, it was not all bad as we eventually made Vero Beach Marina for a 5-night stay; a goodly time to rest and prep for the arrival of our guests in West Palm Beach.

Full Throttle

Spring has arrived in Urbanna!
Madly flowering cherry trees amongst the pines

Finally, the time came to untie docklines on the good life in Deltaville.  We had to drop south to West Palm Beach, Florida to pick up Ingrid & Squiz, who had bravely decided to join us for some down time in the Bahamas.  It was with great reluctance that we bid farewell to Dennis and his outstanding dockhands (Matt & Cage) at the marina.  Needless to say, we didn’t even make it out of Jackson Creek before discovering our GPS was not linking to our new iPad & thus the Navionics charts.  Hmmm…when in doubt, throw out the anchor…so we did!

Travelling the ICW rugged up for cold & rain

Initially, the GPS steadfastly refused to connect, so our trusty Cap’n set about connecting last year’s tiny burner phone in his steering console, and so with only Google guiding us, out we slid into the wilds of Chesapeake Bay.  Winds were blowing 20kts or more from the north; the seas short and choppy.  It was most unpleasant, but our Cap’n was happily in his element.  GS gripped on for dear life.  Well, we at least had a quick trip into Norfolk!

After some exciting moments following in the wake of a large and heavy tow along a new (to us) but much shallower channel into a bouncy Elizabeth River, then trying to ruin a new submarine’s first day out, we finally came to rest at Hospital Point anchorage.  Yes, the wind continued to blow a treat, right into the anchorage.  Just three try-hards on the hook, hoping our anchors held.  It was indeed a very sloppy night and worse, the dinghy could not be safely launched next morning.  

Let’s keep moving…

In a choppy Elizabeth River, Norfolk dodging subs
 - as one must in this vast Navy complex!

The Big Chill

Our challenges began when we arrived in Deltaville mid-Feb on what must have been heatwave conditions at winter’s end.  The following days however, had us rummaging firstly for the ONE hot water bottle & thermal underwear, then finally, puffy down jackets and our Nepal sleeping bags.  Given the chilly weather (daily temps 1 - 8°C) and only one bike to make the quick dash from the yard to the marina bathrooms, the crew rebelled.  A splash was quickly organised.  And a marina berth, bathed in sunshine and quietly floating on Jackson Creek, booked.  

All safely tucked in on Berth #12. 
Now for the Chores List... #1. The boat floats. Tick

From his Headquarters (Berth #12), the Cap’n began the task of going through all the “necessary supplies” he’d had mailed to "his" office.  Dennis and the lads had some breathing space in the Marina office at last!  Thus began two weeks of fun assembling various boat bits and parts, including a new, very speedy, bike.  And did I mention a new laptop?  His Dell decided it had had enough of boating life and had a complete meltdown.  Meanwhile, the battery in GS’s Dell decided not to hold a charge.  At all!  Brilliant….

We did manage to escape the daily grind with an offer by friends, Bill and Heather, to visit their pretty, new home in lovely Urbanna (meaning "City of Anne"), Virginia.  Heather cooked up a storm (as always), then we walked and talked our socks off, exploring their peaceful, riverside hideaway.  

Jolly good company & Rascal looking cute!

With new Marina staff, a new eatery on-site and a small gathering of fellow cruisers also tied to the docks, life was not dull.  It’s good to be back.

Everyone has a Plan until…

Some wise soul spoke of (cruising) plans written in sand.  And, here we are, days out from flying off to Deltaville Boatyard amid the chaos and pandemonium that usually occurs before each sailing season.  However, perhaps this year’s winds changed or the tide simply went out.  We, like many others, have been away from the cruising scene.  For us, it’s been 3 long years, and much has changed – some things, dramatically.  So, here we are, deciding at the last minute to modify our current plan; it just had to happen!  It might seem no big deal, but actually, it is.

At some point during isolation, in a moment of madness, we decided that WJ3 should come home; it would be easier to manage her within the confines of our own country.  Who then, doesn’t want to cruise the South Pacific and we had no need to rush.  So, plans were made to make for Panama in 2023.

Finding another quiet spot in the Bahamas

Reality hit once we began to consider what was necessary to achieve this goal and to consider the usual paperwork, permits, not insignificant costs and the need to have WJ3 (and ourselves) in tip-top condition for an ocean crossing.  We began to feel we were climbing a mountain, but only because it was there.  We also began to ask ourselves many questions and to challenge choices.

Finally, this week, we called time out to consider all options and motivations rather than focus attention just on this, the famous Pacific milk run.  Our all-hands-on-the-table options list went like this:

1.    Stay on the United States east coast & island hop the Caribbean

2.    Head for Panama (our existing stage-the-Pacific-at-a-snail-pace plan)

3.    Cross the Pacific to Tahiti (haul out) then head home another season

4.    Cross the Atlantic back to the Med or perhaps the UK

5.    Ship home or even to Asia (Thailand or Malaysia)

6.    Sell up

Our decision was reached, again & again.  Finally though, the Galley Slave is off stress meds and no longer needs to stockpile seasick tablets.  Our Cap’n will continue his dream of spending 6 months of each year devoted to his other woman.  And just now, he’s just ordered a spanking new e-bike to be delivered to Deltaville.  A resounding win-win for all.

Well, you'll be pleased to know that the US option came up trumps (excuse this feeble attempt at humour!)…  Travel in the US is easy; there are so many sailing options that we’re spoilt for choice.  Land travel is readily available too and we will have the opportunity to travel further afield, much like we did in Europe with organised tours at our fingertips.  Perhaps Machu Picchu will open again soon?  We also like being away and being overseas means that we really will spend time sailing WJ3. 

Now we are settled (sigh!), we can plan visas to get back into the US.  In the meantime, we will take a leisurely cruise down the Caribbean to Trinidad where we will haul for this year.  The Cap’n is already salivating at the thought of Trinidad street food (roti, doubles, bake & shark, hmmm) just too good to miss!  Next year we’ll head back to our favourite Deltaville boatyard. 

So, perhaps we’ll see you in the Caribbean this year?

Mike Tyson (2012) is quoted as saying “Everyone has a plan until they get punched in the mouth.”  Some days it just feels like it...

Exuma Cays Land & Sea Park - 112,640 acres to explore... (That's WJ3 behind the navy blue sailboat!)
Squiz, Ingrid are you excited yet??