Home Run

After our pounding on the Alligator River, it was an easy decision to make to pull into the shelter of Coinjock.  Here, we had the pleasure of hot showers and a huge, very tasty seafood dinner at their popular restaurant.  We think they forgot our serve of hushpuppies though.  Never mind, next time!  We were keen to keep on moving, as miles were now vanishing under our keel at an amazing rate.  Great Bridge turned out to be another excellent stop – out of the wind, supermarkets close by and a free dock for 48 hours.  We took up that challenge (yet again) and shared a few bread crusts with other visitors biding time here - some very bossy Canada Geese. 

Tied up at Great Bridge between the Bridge & the Lock

C'mon Lady, deliver the goods or else...

With only 12 miles to Norfolk, we made an easy day of it.  Starting with the Great Bridge Lock, we pushed off into the Elizabeth River to undertake several bridge openings before meeting the heavily industrialised Portsmouth and Norfolk.  We arrived at Mile 0, off Hospital Point, yet again having to wait for northerlies to abate (just another 2 days on anchor – at least the sun was shining) to complete our last 47 miles up the Chesapeake to Deltaville.  

Waiting for the lock to open. Lowering of 2.5ft & from fresh into salt water

Back into the real world. Even our bicycle looks impressed...

We left Hospital Point, as scheduled but could hardly see for thick fog!  Thankfully, shipping traffic was minimal, Navy ships barely visible and only one large ship came into port, blasting alerts as he moved up river.  We noted again, we were the only ones heading north, tried to keep on the edge of the channel and were relieved to finally break out into Chesapeake Bay – even if we still couldn’t see anything.  

Don't look now, but something is following us...

Big shipyards and Norfolk city beyond

Nine hours later, WJ3 pulled into Broad Creek Marina where we are currently tied to the Transient Dock until it is time to haul us into their yard.  It’s still freezing and the Cap’n has just dashed off on a mercy mission to buy a heater for the cabin. He can never resist an opportunity to visit Hurd's Hardware! 

Warming up at last

By now you have seen many, many photos of our splashes and hauls, so we will end our 2025 posts here.  WJ3 will be sitting idle in the yard until our return to Deltaville in April/May 2026, with plans for time spent messing about on the Chesapeake and the Other Woman’s maintenance.  Right now, we’re looking forward to 12 months at home, even if we are looking down the barrel at yet another winter.  Just whose idea was this??

Just hauled out in time before the heavens opened and foul winds blew

We promise to be back for more adventures end of April 2026.  Though no more open oceans, no more long voyages!  Just a casual cruise and catch-up on what's been happening along the shores of the Chesapeake in our absence!  

Full Throttle

Spring has arrived in Urbanna!
Madly flowering cherry trees amongst the pines

Finally, the time came to untie docklines on the good life in Deltaville.  We had to drop south to West Palm Beach, Florida to pick up Ingrid & Squiz, who had bravely decided to join us for some down time in the Bahamas.  It was with great reluctance that we bid farewell to Dennis and his outstanding dockhands (Matt & Cage) at the marina.  Needless to say, we didn’t even make it out of Jackson Creek before discovering our GPS was not linking to our new iPad & thus the Navionics charts.  Hmmm…when in doubt, throw out the anchor…so we did!

Travelling the ICW rugged up for cold & rain

Initially, the GPS steadfastly refused to connect, so our trusty Cap’n set about connecting last year’s tiny burner phone in his steering console, and so with only Google guiding us, out we slid into the wilds of Chesapeake Bay.  Winds were blowing 20kts or more from the north; the seas short and choppy.  It was most unpleasant, but our Cap’n was happily in his element.  GS gripped on for dear life.  Well, we at least had a quick trip into Norfolk!

After some exciting moments following in the wake of a large and heavy tow along a new (to us) but much shallower channel into a bouncy Elizabeth River, then trying to ruin a new submarine’s first day out, we finally came to rest at Hospital Point anchorage.  Yes, the wind continued to blow a treat, right into the anchorage.  Just three try-hards on the hook, hoping our anchors held.  It was indeed a very sloppy night and worse, the dinghy could not be safely launched next morning.  

Let’s keep moving…

In a choppy Elizabeth River, Norfolk dodging subs
 - as one must in this vast Navy complex!

Batten Down Them ‘Atches!

Norfolk to York River: 18^th September

Now, you’ll recall that September is peak ‘cane month.  So far, 2019 had seen an offering of storms of varying dimensions rolling slowly up the US east coast.  One day perfect – definitely not the next!  So it was for our journey to York River.  Ordinarily, this should have been a fun couple of hours on the water.  Somehow, I think we met up with Humberto’s leftovers.  

This looked to be a floating ship's skeleton

Old Point Comfort Lighthouse

As we left Elizabeth River, it seemed a Navy and Coast Guard's worth of ships were coming in.  Was this a warning sign?  From Old Point Comfort Lighthouse, we put up sail; not for speed but to control the bollocking nature was delivering in spades.  Things calmed down a bit once we made York River.  However, the Magpies certainly earned their boating stripes that day for sure.  And yes, nobody wanted lunch on the way…

Hooray!  Safely docked in York River Yacht Haven Marina for a few days.
Even better, our neighbours had a Siamese cat!

Chocolate Beer is not for Everyone

Norfolk: 17^th September

Get me off that boat!

Our wildlife experiences were soon enough followed by city life.  We hit the dock in Norfolk ready for the high life.  Our lads, now thinking of boats with larger accommodations, chose to explore Battleship Wisconsin at the Nauticus Museum and later visit the MacArthur Memorial.  The ladies chose to walk the CannonballTrail, a self-guided walking tour through historic Norfolk; but not before taking a coffee break at the mall, naturally!  Sadly, none of the historic homes were open, making the walk a little uneventful.

1894 James W Hunter House (note cobbled street), a
Romanesque-Gothic resplendent with turrets & gargoyles 

1896 Epworth United Methodist Church, Romanesque, certainly
home to gargoyles and probably a few ghosts too.

Our plan was then to meet at the Waterside Dock, or more specifically, the Blue Moon TapHouse for a little craft beer.  Artisan beer tasting is a hip thing to do in Norfolk. Y'all know how hip ; ) we folks are.  The Ghent district, being a little out of our way, led us dockside, so we tried “vibrant & young” on for size, sharing one platter between us (6 tasting glasses).  Who would have thought of chocolate beer?  There was also mango, coffee and lemon accompanied by tasting notes like any fine wine.  Give me an ordinary sauv blanc (from NZ) or even a standard beer ANY time. Cheers!

Best Behaviour

Norfolk: 14^th September

We had little choice but to discover Uber.  Norfolk’s airport, so it seems, is public transport challenged.  Either way, we arrived in time to meet the travelling Magpies (Mr & Mrs) off their flight and demonstrate our new found skill in summonsing transport (Uber) back to Waterside Park.  This is where we’d left Bruce, a grizzled, ancient mariner (our dinghy), to fend for himself amongst a bevy of sleek, colourful Dragon boats.  At least he hadn’t run away to sea with one of them in our absence!

New to dinghy transport, our guests graciously clambered over their bags and into Bruce for the zippy ride across the harbour to our Hospital Point anchorage.  The weather had been somewhat unsettled of late, but WJ3 was nicely dug in and well protected in this fantastic spot right in the heart of super busy, and very historic Naval port areas, Norfolk and Portsmouth. 

A sailboat is quintessential “tiny house” living.  So, with that in mind, our guests squeezed themselves into an aft cabin made to fit a queen-sized bed.  And that’s about all.  We later assembled for drinks and a “safety briefing with extras” in the cockpit to watch the sun go down.

So far, so good.  No absconders….

Mr & Mrs Magpie arrived in time for "sundowners" on board.  It was a little breezy.

Hospital Point

Here we are in Norfolk, a busy Navy and industrial port.  We’re on anchor on the Portsmouth side of Elizabeth River, tucked away at ICW Mile 0, watching the 24-hour comings and goings of tows/barges and big ships negotiating their way past tourist boats, pleasure craft and fleets of colourful racing dinghies.  Who would be harbour master here?  At night, the city rings with harmonies that seem music to our ears after so long in rural Deltaville. 

Sunset Sailing School

We are here to wait for visitors – another brave couple – so we've been out exploring.  Not a lot has changed.  Luckily, the nearby MacArthur Centre (shopping mall) still has Barnes & Noble, a bookstore with coffee lounge and limited wi-fi (yaay, at least some connection!).  We debated doing a movie but found a table with power outlets so stayed put.  After ordering more cake, a few magazines and several books, naturally...

It seems we’ve arrived at just the right time.  There’s a boat show on this weekend at the Waterside Park.

Huge moon over Norfolk CBD

Off the Hook

On Sunday, 8^th September, we found ourselves free, free at last, heading down Chesapeake Bay to Norfolk with an entourage of flies of all persuasions and of course, our very fat and happy boatyard spider, Herbert.   Both tide and wind were in our favour, so we set a cracking 8kts with the genoa up (and motor on – it is the Chesapeake after all!) for our first and longest (five hour) voyage this season.

Our departure delays up to this point had been many and varied; mostly to do with ongoing maintenance issues – WJ3 is 19 years old after all!  Plans to sail up the Potomac to Washington and eventually, even the one to visit Tangier Island from Reedville, one day’s sail away, were crossed off the list.  Power problems our trusty Cap’n had thought he’d tamed, surfaced yet again.  We had been living off solar power alone – very noble of course, but not sufficient to recharge needy gadgets.  GS continued her daily visits to the Sailor’s Lounge with its plentiful supply of electricity, aircon and not-so-cranky company.   

Of course, there were other diversions.  Out sailing with Bill on Aeolus.

A spanking new alternator arrived and the Cap’n with text book diligence, fitted it in place.  All seemed to work well, only we were just short of Labor Day weekend, a three-day salute to the end of summer, school holidays and usually a boating frenzy.  We decided to sit it out, with our anchor well dug into muddy Jackson Creek, rather than tempt fate in other popular locations.  It all came to naught however with Dorian, a hulking hurricane monster moving painfully slowly in our direction.

The Lounge TV was locked on the Weather Channel, reports of the massive damage to the Bahamas unfolded and predictions, most scientific and others quite irrational, were made.  Friday (6^th) was forecast as our day to meet Dorian, although with less damaging winds (down from 85 to 60mph**) and high tides/flooding.  Like most other boaters, we took down sails and canvas and prepared our boat.  On Thursday we moved into a floating dock on the Marina (with 20 ft piles) and strapped WJ3 and Bruce (the dinghy) down for the big blow.  Yes, we were edgy.

**1mph=1.6km/h; I'm too lazy to convert

And even more excuses
We can't go now.  A crab has taken up residence on our anchor chain...

Obstructions to the right (starboard) of us.
 Thimble Shoal Lighthouse

Fortunately, at Cape Hatteras, Dorian moved further out to sea and we were spared the worst.  In our safe spot protected by surrounding pine forests, winds gusted to high 40’s.  A couple of the fixed docks went underwater with higher than normal tides.  A day of rain helped wash off the boat (the Cap’n was happy) and plugged into Marina power, GS was happy.  Even the boatyard spider survived (and was happy).

So, it was in a state of cheerfulness that Cap’n and crew finally set forth on this season’s “maiden” run down the Bay.  Although, we had promised Dock Master Dennis to be back in a week! 

And Traffic to the left (port) of us

End of Season Fin & Tonic

X-ing File #6_A Gulf Stream Crossing & the Atlantic ICW

Norfolk to Deltaville

By the time we got tucked in to Deltaville Marina's snug dock, we too badly needed a (very) large Fin & Tonic.  WJ3 deserved one too, having grown a healthy moustache!  Indeed we were so happy to arrive we almost forgot that we had achieved quite the milestone.  There indeed, we will have "crossed our wake" of an Atlantic circumnavigation!!  Who'd have thought!

Finally at home in Jackson Creek, Deltaville VA

Let's not get ahead of ourselves though, the voyage back to Deltaville resumes.

Our departure from Norfolk went awry with the engine overheating – thankfully not in front of those vast, grey Navy warships where anchoring is NOT permitted.  Security staff have big, nasty guns mounted on the front of their boats (as do the Coast Guard).  We crept back to the anchorage and the Cap’n put to work on finding the culprit.  At least the early morning downpour had cleared somewhat.  After our Cap’n Resolute crawled all over the engine, cleaned sea creatures from water filters and took a dip in less-than-appealing river waters (to check drains), off we set again.  Only to watch the temperature gauge rise steadily again.  Oh dear, back to the anchorage and time to consult those (many) manuals.  By the time we found the culprits – two not-so-tight hose clips allowing coolant to leak into the bilge, it was too late in the day to start off for a 50 mile run up the Chesapeake.  Pity really as the next day conditions were worse; wind and swell on the nose and lots of rain.  

So, for our last 'leg" of this long, long voyage we geared up in now standard attire – thermals and wet weather gear.  We’d even taken to wearing beanies...warm yes, but flattering, no.  We waved goodbye to Warship 64 wondering if she’d remembered our 2011 encounter mid-Atlantic, then negotiated our way passed all the commercial traffic and out this busy port.   

Conditions began to improve slowly as we inched our way up Chesapeake Bay.  By the time we had reached our cosy anchorage in Jackson Creek, the sun was out, the temperature (and barometer) was up and there was hardly a ripple on the creek.  Deltaville is such a magic place and we were so happy to be back!  And content to have survived the 6,460nm journey to get there.  

A nice quiet crossing of the Turks Caicos Banks

Our figures for our 2017 & 2018 Atlantic Crossing marathon, came in as follows:

From: Lagos, Portugal Lat/Long: 37:06.60N 8:40.53W  Date/Time: 01/12/17: 1130

To: Deltaville, USA Lat/Long: 37:32.921N 76:19.772W  Date/Time: 07/05/18: 1555

Time Taken: (2017-18): 1122 hrs  Distance: (2017-18): 6460nm

Distance Total: (since 2008): 24,744.5nm  

Longest Open Ocean Distance: (2017&18): 2181nm (Cape Verdes to Antigua, Caribbean)

Weather: Challenging weather throughout with the Caribbean unexpectedly blowy too.  Lots of wind action off the US east coast kept us pinned in the ICW; at least we had a good run there.

Fastest Speed: We didn’t set any speed records but had good winds to sail (no motoring) across the Atlantic.  This was followed by a mixed bag in the Caribbean with some really great sailing weather then motoring when things weren’t going our way.  We bumped along the ICW doing the standard 5 - 6.5kts with the occasional burst from tidal currents.  

 
We will be “readjusting” to our regular cruising schedule in 2019, all things being equal, so there will be little to report until about April/May next year.  Yes, a long break but it really does snow here in winter and ice skating’s not for us.  Besides, we’ve paid our winter dues having just completed two, repeat two, winters in a row….  We (or should I say certain crew members) also need time to get over all that blue water excitement.  So, it seems fitting to end with this quote: 

“Once you have travelled, the voyage never ends, 

but is played out over and over again in the quietest chambers, 

that the mind can never break off from the journey.”  

Pat Conroy

Amen, and a couple of Stugeron to that!

Unforgettable blue waters. WJ3 on a mooring at Warderwick Wells, a land &
sea park in the Exuma Cays, Bahamas. We did have some good weather days!

Yeah Buoy

X-ing File #6_A Gulf Stream Crossing & the Atlantic ICW

Belhaven to Norfolk

(I think we shouted, "Yeah Buoy!" all the way up the ICW. It seemed so American frat boy really.  Maybe we just watch too many movies?)

All this...and in pink. Still it is a deep water frontage with a lighthouse...

Having previously visited Belhaven, and with our sites firmly set on reaching Virginia at the start of May, planned side trips to historic cities dotted along the Neuse and Pamlico Rivers and up Albemarle Sound were slated for “another” day.  We plugged on through the long and stumpy Alligator-Pungo Canal, wondered at the number of bridges offering openings only on the hour and dodged more commercial traffic than we’d previously seen.  For your edification, Captains of commercial traffic advise either "a slow pass" or "meet me on" the one whistle (or tap) indicating a pass to port.  Two whistles (or taps) indicates starboard.  Fascinating reminder or times before radio communications.   We watched and felt for a hot water boat that managed to impale itself on an underwater stump just outside the channel; fortunately reversing off. 

View back along the stumpy Pungo

Another black river adding colour to WJ3's moustache

At least these stumps are not floating...yet

Passing a big tow "on the two" & taking
the Captain's advice so as not to snag a stump

Winds piped up for our crossing of Albemarle Sound; WJ3 found her sea-legs enjoying the romp.  We set the hook in the open waters of North River rather late in the day but otherwise celebrated our arrival at the Virginia Cut.  We were only 57 miles from Norfolk, Mile Zero.

Green 37. Most importantly, MILE 100! Yes!

The next day’s run took us through Coinjock, having to give the famous 32oz prime rib a miss, before finally crossing into Virginia at Pungo Ferry.  At Great Bridge we were “spoken to” by the bridge operator for not responding on VHF Channel 13.  We had no idea that he was even calling us, his accent quite broad and southern…  There’s a plethora of bridges in this section of the ICW, and as the weather was extraordinarily warm, we called it quits and tied up to the free dock before the Great Bridge Lock.  Better to take the next 10 miles in the morning.  Besides, families of geese were out taking their babies for walks and a swim.  And the local rowing team were dodging canal traffic like professionals during their practice sessions.  Sadly, it was too cold for crabs to be out yet (we caught a nice pot-full last time) so we had to settle for something from the freezer yet again.  The lock continued to be busy; we breathed in when that mini-cruise ship squeezed passed us though, lights blazing in the dark.  Now that’s the way to travel the ICW!

Early morning swimming lessons with mum & dad at Great Bridge Lock

This looked alarming; a school bus teetering on the edge of a cliff;
we think it was a training prop for emergency services though.

Norfolk in our sights

The hardworking end of Portsmouth

So, here we are, sitting on anchor off Hospital Point in Norfolk, feeling very pleased with ourselves.  Its only a day’s run to Deltaville, so we’re having a few days off here in this busy port city (the largest Naval Port in the world) to prepare for the madness of bedding down WJ3.  This will be our last post of the season (unless something really interesting happens in Deltaville), except for the End of Season tallies.  After this long and heroic season (2017 & 2018), we’re thinking of just gunkholing the Chesapeake next year.  Still, that’s 12 months away and anything can (& will) happen…

Not Struck Again!

Storms off the coast.  Storms all up the coast.  Storms over the coast... 

We arrived back in the Chesapeake weaving our way through heavy black clouds, intense lightning, a couple of maydays and a wee bit of rain.  Fort Monroe too was being thrashed so our trusty Cap’n guided us up the Elizabeth River (at night and during 4^th July celebrations) to our Hospital Point anchorage, which is better for repairs and being deck potatoes anyway. 

That's IT!  Let me off at Hooters...now!

Next morning GS & BW sat, hardly awake, with early morning coffees as a neighbouring boat called out to see if we’d had much damage. “We saw the lightning hit your mast last night” he said, “didn’t you feel it?”  The Motleys were speechless…are you kidding?  “Quite spectacular really. Hit the mast and 2 forks split out from the top,” he continued. “Amazing your anchor light is still working!”  GS & BW debated who was going to break the news to the Cap’n.   Shute….

BW dashed below to check the electronics as GS shouted after them….”What time?”  “Oh, right when the fireworks were on - about 8.30 or 9pm.”  Big sigh – it couldn’t have been us then!  All sailboats look the same in the dark, obviously.

We were beginning to wonder how many superstitions (aka nautical theories) we had broken.

From:	Mill Creek off Hampton Flats	To:	Hospital Point, Norfolk
Lat/Long:	38:19.86N  76:19.80W	Lat/Long:	36:50.67N  76:17.92W
Date/Time:	3/7/11: 1440	Date/Time:	4/7/11: 2155
Time Taken:	182nm (32hrs)
Distance:	489nm (87.5hrs) (this year)	Dist Total	5867nm (since 2008)
Weather:	SW ; 10-20kts; 3-6’ seas;
Fastest Speed:	6kts (generally 4.8kts before the storm)