Back to the Start

We sadly bid farewell to Jumping Fish Bay in Greece

The Windjammers have experienced our shortest season yet, cruising in an area with few places for us Aussies to “run & hide” given Schengen’s limitations.  Still “weather” experiences kept us on our toes too and ensured a modified float plan.  This sadly entailed excluding Southern France (the Mistral consistently blowing with regularity & some ferocity this year) although we managed time in Corsica before taking a familiar route through the Balearics back to Lagos in Portugal.

Discovered style in Barcelona

And hunky types in Naples

Italy’s west coast made good its promise of few anchorages so our travels were essentially moving from marina to marina with longish stops to take in major historical sites.  Somehow, we still never seemed to have sufficient time for our “must do” list.  At least we managed to see (but not climb) some seriously interesting volcanos and enjoy one or two bottles of local plonk (I'm not sure there's an Italian equivalent for this word).  The history was fascinating, the art incredible, people generally friendly and scenery, especially along the northern coast, quite unlike the “Med” we had grown used to.

The view over La Spezia was too good to miss

So, this blog and photo fest is due for a long Mediterranean lunch break with the possibility of a further delay before the start of next season as our vague plan is to cross back to Trinidad.  This requires avoiding hurricane season (June to Nov) and some big steps to get to a Canaries or Cape Verdes springboard.  So our timings will need to be adjusted and we just may have to experience a winter...brrrrrr!

And Italy kept us very busy

In summary, the 2016 season started in Preveza, Greece with a very short stop in Sarande, Albania.  Thus began our weather experiences and first change to the float plan… At least the weather gods were kind to us as we slid across to Sicily. 

Nicely ensconced in Syracuse, we learned of Italy’s transport shortcomings but managed to make the crossing to Malta for a most enjoyable land break.  Historically, the Messina Straits has been a sailor’s nightmare so we shouldn’t have been surprised to feel its wrath – albeit in a rather subdued manner.  Swordfishing locals gave us a farewell salute as WJ3 battled steep waves generated by wind against current.  At least we weren't rowing.
Then our anchor wanted to stay in Vulcano but after some wrestling and with a much improved weather outlook on offer, we convinced it to join us in crossing to Italy’s west coast to begin the slow crawl northwards. 

From colourful towns in a festive mood

We took longish stops in Torre del Greco (Naples area), Rome, and La Spezia (Tuscany) before modifying the float plan again to include Corsica for a few days sailing down its eastern coast. Sardinia's tip provided shelter before striking out for the Balearics and back to Spain. 

With long strides along the Spanish coast we quickly made Gibraltar, where the weather gods again smiled giving us the right winds and tide to sail through notorious Gibraltar Straits.  Another interesting weather system from the far NW (UK) threatened the Atlantic coast but we made Lagos, Portugal before it took its toll.  Tucked up in the marina we hardly even noticed it! 

Our yearly figures confirm yet another distance marathon and come in as follows:

From: Preveza, Greece Lat/Long: 38:57.09N 20:46 .04E  Date/Time: 03/06/16: 1745

To: Lagos, Portugal Lat/Long: 37:06.45N 08:40.27W  Date/Time: 23/09/16: 1045
Time Taken: (this year): 383 hrs  Distance: (this year): 2248.5nm
Distance Total: (since 2008): 18,278.5nm  
Weather: Challenging weather this year, mostly Mistral generated, kept us on our toes
Fastest Speed: We had a mixed bag with some really great sailing weather and some really dreadful conditions too.  But it’s the Med!  And mostly motoring continues at a sedate 6 - 6.5kts.

We will post as plans for 2017 develop, so keep tuned to this space!

To finding a few volcanoes on our way.  A busy year indeed!

Going Gothic

Barcelona

When I go, I want my feet resting on my favourite dog too!

Given that the day’s major exercise was getting back to the airport, we eventually decided on another day just walking Barri Gotic, the old quarter, taking in sites, particularly around the Cathedral area, we had missed.  So, batteries recharged, we made for the Columbus Monument and Port Vell.  Strolling Passeig de Colom offers open vistas over the modern marina and port; a taste of the restructured and modern Barcelona.
 

Columbus Monument

Crustaceans everywhere 

Salami anyone?

And more graffiti

The Columbus Monument marks the foot of La Rambla, so we joined many others to wander its length until we reached the heart of the Gothic Quarter.  The plan was for a more thorough investigation of an area chosen by the Carthaginians (Hannibal’s father, Hamilcar Barca) in 230 BC to settle*.  Romans followed, naming the town Barcino.  At least we can see obvious remains of their settlement. 


Turning off Carrer de Ferran, (sadly not noticing Palau Guell, Gaudi’s first commission by the wealthy arts patron) into Placa de Sant Jaume, we looked for remains of the old Roman forum.  Now, it’s a square busy with visitors admiring Barcelona’s 14^th c Town Hall.  Opposite is the Palau de la Generalita, another magnificent palace.  Adorned with a sculpture of St George, Catalonia’s Patron Saint, this has been the city’s seat of government since 1403. 

The Cathedral draws crowds

Up on the Cathedral roof

Visible down narrow side streets, the Cathedral beckoned.  However it was closed briefly for a period of “visitor respite” - much to the annoyance of tour guides who quickly rescheduled walking group itineraries.  While we waited, we explored the entrance of the very pretty Casa de l’Ardiaca.  Built on the back of an old Roman wall opposite the Cathedral, this building was once the archdeacon’s residence although now it serves to hold the city’s historical archives.

Inside the Cathedral

A Caribbean Saint (Montserrat, I think)

Doesn't everyone need a Guard Goose or seven?

The Cathedral, built in 1298 over the remains of a Roman temple and Moorish mosque, is Catalan style Gothic. Considered compact, it still makes quite an impact on visitors with slender columns, a single nave, lots of side chapels devoted to various saints and stunning arches reaching for the stars. 

In 1493, when Columbus arrived in Barcelona from the New World, he was given a state welcome by Fernando & Isabel at the nearby Royal Palace (now the Barcelona History Museum).  Six Caribbean Indians who returned with him were baptised in the Cathedral (having converted to Christianity, as one would in that situation!).  A plaque near the font records this event.  Despite a large crowd inside, few took advantage of the lift to the roof.  We found a great city panorama, a very interesting roofline and a close-up view of the octagonal bell towers.  Honking geese in the cloister were pretty interesting too, although we did wonder about it!



Vegan cats would go down well at home!

A quick inspection of market stalls (brimming with “antiques”) set up in front of the Cathedral followed by a quick dash into the Museum bookshop for a more concise guide on Gaudi’s architectural delights, left us with insufficient time to explore the History Museum itself.  With its extensive Roman ruins (subterranean, so it could have been rather good fun!) and Royal Palace rooms where Columbus was received in 1493 & later the Inquisition convened, it was hard to move on.  Instead, we followed our noses back through the old streets finding interesting people, shops, food and architectural features until we arrived back somehow at the Mercat del Born, another site brimming with Roman remains and strangely enough, the area of an old Roman market.  It was time then to pack up and say our reluctant farewells to this delightful city.  With bags crammed full (and now rather heavy!), we headed for the Aerobus to begin the long road home.

Some of the delightful artwork inside the Cathedral

Roman walls &  Palace buildings beside the Cathedral

* This historical event is apparently disputed – well, actually considered more of a myth (Wiki)!  Another favourite myth is that our boy about town, Hercules, also founded the city, literally naming it after the ninth boat in his fleet. He was in grand company too, sailing with Jason & the Argonauts....

Catalan Style - Modernisme (Part 2)

Barcelona

Admiring Gaudi's Park Guell detail

From La Sagrada Familia, we took a bus to Park Guell, a Modernist park set on Carmel Hill, above and on the outskirts of Barcelona.  Guell’s plan called for a private and exclusive housing estate offering gardens, fresh air and panoramic vistas over Barcelona.  Only two houses (1904) of the sixty planned were ever built, and at Guell’s suggestion, Gaudi moved onto the estate (Casa Gaudi) to begin work on developing it.  After Guell’s death, his family donated the estate for use as a public park.  His mansion now houses a public school and some areas of the park entail an entrance fee to better manage its heritage listed features. Gaudi’s house is a museum which sadly we had no time to visit.

Save your broken dinner plates & tiles...

View over Barcelona & Park Guell Entrance Gates

Gaudi's most famous character;
imagine the time needed to mosaic this beast!

Gaudi's House in Park Guell

Oh look, it comes with a pixie too!

After an hour exploring Park Guell, we made our way back down to the city’s prestigious shopping precinct, Passeig de Gracia to the “Block of Discord**”, a city block known for its Moderniste buildings, showcasing the work of four main exponent architects.  Our key interest was Gaudi (of course!) so we alighted at Casa Mila, also known as La Pedrera (stone quarry).  This 8 storeyed block, previously apartments, was designed around two circular courtyards.  The building’s white stone façade undulates fluidly, like waves on an ocean; iron balustrading highlighting this theme, resembed seaweed.  In the afternoon light Casa Mila’s white tiled roof sparkled, beautifully evoking Spain’s snowy mountain tops.  It is possible to visit parts of the building (now office space) so we added that to our growing “Maybe List” for a last day in Barcelona splurge.  And that would be tomorrow!

Casa Mila

Casa Mila's organic shapes

A short stroll down Passeig de Gracia, passing way too many high end fashion boutiques, we came to the front of Casa Batllo.  This building is said to symbolise St George killing the dragon, with its bold scaly roof scattered with claw-like chimneys and a garlic-shaped dome.  Spindly columns led to the building being nick-named the “House of Bones”, while balconies appear clad with giant masks.  Salvador Dali (another very creative Catalan artist) is said to have referenced the building to a stormy sea.  Either way, it is incredibly individual, detailed, colourful and intricate – quite overwhelming even today.  It’s difficult to imagine such a departure from “standard” and cultural architectural models of the day.  Parts of this building are also open for public inspection, so we added that to our List too.    

Sadly, the colours don't show in the
afternoon shadows

Close up of bone-like columns

Casa Batllo’s close neighbours include fascinating Casa Amatller (by Cadafalch) and decorative Casa Lleo Morera, now fronted by an exclusive Catalan boutique.  We were able to walk into Casa Amatller’s tiled patio entrance and peer up at a stunning glass skylight.  Just tempters for yet another guided tour to learn more about this movement and the incredible constructions arrived at as a consequence.

Casa Amatller

Decorative details are so inspiring....

Catalan pride - St George giving it to the naughty dragon

We didn’t finish our tour until well after 7.30pm, so decided to walk back through the Barri Gotic, losing ourselves to the evocative streets of old Barcelona.  We found a spot to eat frequented by young locals who clearly live in and love their city, and ordered an express plate – a ready-picked, rather delicious tapas selection.  Focusing on the food made us forget those challenging decisions we had to make for our next day’s program.  Too. Many. Choices! 

** So called, because the buildings clash with each other and neighbouring buildings.

Catalan Style - Modernisme (Part 1)

Barcelona

It's almost impossible to take a photo of the whole of La Sagrada Familia

Given that we’d just come from a drenching of Roman ruins and a splashing of Renaissance art, it seemed at odds to be leaping into the world of Modernisme (1888-1911), an Art Nouveau offshoot and bright, shining star of Spanish influence.  This movement started out intent on ruffling bourgeois tastes, but settled into an extravert style sourced from organic shapes.  Designs were resplendent with curves (rather than straight lines) and underscored by incredible, complex detail much sourced from Spain’s rich architectural heritage.  Modernisme was unleashed on the world during the 1888 Universal Exhibition (World Fair) held in a remodelled Ciutadella Park.  The Exhibition featured the Castle of the Three Dragons, the Arc del Triomf and the more traditional Columbus Monument*. 

In 1878, Antoni Gaudi graduated as an architect and then in 1883 took over design responsibility of La Sagrada Familia.  Of nine buildings listed by UNESCO as World Cultural Heritage, Gaudi is responsible for 7.  His style, even by today’s standards is exuberant, creative and wholly original.

Glory Façade - detail (south side)

Nativity Façade - detail (east side)

Passion Façade - detail (west side)

Our tour included a visit to four of these architectural delights, with a peek inside two of them.  First stop was the most famous, La Sagrada Familia, of dizzying proportions and decoration.  Luckily, we had guide, Marc, and 1½ hours because even though the site is extremely popular, its story is worth the telling and understanding.  A foundation stone was set in 1882 and the complex only opened to the public in 2012, yet the site remains unfinished, funding sourced through visitors & benefactors.  Its design is highly complex, deeply symbolic and a passionate personal expression.  We started at the Nativity façade (finished by Gaudi) moved through the amazing interior, stopped to observe the Passion façade (with controversial sculptures by Josep Maria Subirachs), and finished in the underground vault where a small museum houses models, diagrams and photos.  It is hoped that construction will be completed by 2026, the centenary of Gaudi’s death.

Afternoon light on west side

A new twist on traditional
stained glass windows

Floating above the altar

Internal columns branch like trees

 

The ceiling resembles an underwater reef scene

* For those interested in history, the Columbus Monument is erected on the site where Columbus first set foot in Europe following his first voyage to the Americas. 

Strolling El Born

Barcelona

Mercat del Born - now protecting Roman ruins

Our hotel was a delight; we overslept in a comfy bed then over-ate (again) at the breakfast buffet, so really needed to dust off shanks ponies for a walk around the old town before our 3pm date for a viewing of Mr Gaudi’s fine Modernista masterpieces. 

Santa Maria del Mar

Cathedral View

Easiest option was to take ourselves for a D&K self-guided walk (sourced from our guide book) around El Born, starting at a point behind the hotel, the Mercat del Born, a former wholesale market with a distinct Parisian style.  The camera ran hot, walking was easy, restaurants and cafes thrived and there seemed opportunity for visitors and locals alike to enjoy the varied offerings of city life. We passed Museu Picasso, the church of Santa Maria del Mar and somehow missed a famous chocolate shop before finally collecting our thoughts over a reviving beer.  It was time to head off to find the La Sagrada Familia and our tour meeting place. 

Remains of the decorative Old Quarter

Even an old fashioned shop

Trying hard to resist the delicious lunch tapas on offer

It’s just as well we left in plenty of time.  Our “leisurely 20 min stroll” through Quadrat d’Or took us 90 mins.  The backstreets showcase exceptional architectural offerings, all used rather than wrapped in cotton wool.  Such discoveries ensured a photo stop every opportunity (at least every 10 seconds) as the obsessed must!

More arty faces

and clever graffiti

Beside exuberant buildings

and spikey towers