Do You Feel Old?

Boppin’ on Ibiza
 

Keep the Crew Happy OK.....

Two issues arose from our planned voyage to the Balearics.  Firstly, it was a 72 nautical mile journey lacking in coastal scenery – blue water and wide sky for at least 14 hours.  The other concern lay squarely with the somewhat late, rather too much, terribly more-ish tapas served to us at Club Nautico’s café the night before.  And did we mention the large glasses of house wine at €1.50 each?  Well, visions of sea urchins chased by baby octopus danced before (some of) the crew’s eyes.  They shall remain nameless.  However, let it be said that solace was not sought in a bucket at any stage of the trip…. And we made it to the island of Formentera in a speedy 10 hours to settle into a pleasant anchorage surrounded by at least 40 or so of our boating compatriots.  

 

Here at Espalmador we stayed – the second night on a mooring so as not to disturb the native seagrass with our anchor.  Oh, we know ALL about sea grass….  

Spying on bathing beauties in Cala Porroig

From Espalmador, we moved on, via Cala Porroig where we actually got our bathers wet for the first time this season, to the interesting Puerto San Antoni.  Despite imagining there would be little room to anchor, we found a decent spot backing on to a complex of resorts, full of noisy bars and alive with water craft of every imaginable persuasion.  Oh well, Lonely Planet did warn us of San An’s darker side. 

 

The town is full of young people.  We felt decrepit and certainly overdressed.  Nobody laughed when the Cap’n asked if there were any bars or nightclubs available for the over 60’s.  Hmmm, our generation gap is showing.  The town is full of young people (mostly Poms) on package tours.  Groups of sweet young things in bikinis, young men with oiled pecks admiring the “scenery”, rappers with hairstyles I bet their mothers don’t know about.  And there’s plenty more.  Raves or dance clubs pump up the music at 10pm; skinny blonde disco chicks parade in “costumes tres original” along beachfront promenades to advertise them.  We haven’t had so much fun since Provincetown days.
 

Eivissa's defensive walls

 

We did manage to tear ourselves away however for a 15 minute bus ride to Eivissa, the island’s capital.  Here the cruise ships set a more upmarket tone, with our crumpled cruising gear getting a few curious glances.  Eivissa non-the-less, offers an interesting selection for people- watching purposes.  Still duty called and we headed off to find the two recommended attractions – the old town, Dalt Vila, and its amazing fortifications and necropolis Puig des Molins, an ancient burial site dating from Phoenician times (7^th c BC).  Sadly, Spanish time had defeated us and the necropolis closed at 2 for lunch; re-opening at 6pm.  We caught the bus back to San An, ordered a beer at the nearest bar and watched the free entertainment.  Eventually, the old boys’ eyes could no longer cope, but that’s another story.

From:  Altea, Spain Lat/Long: 38:35.313N 0:03.297E  Date/Time: 25/06/13: 1010

To: San Antonio, Ibiza Lat/Long: 38:58.264N 01:18.016E Date/Time: 28/06/13: 1400
Time Taken: 98nm (15hrs) Distance (this year): 651.5nm (103hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 11476.5nm   Weather: NE generally 6-10kts; calm & flat;
Fastest Speed: Had a decent sail to Espalmador, Formentera (at last!) 7kts

Closed Today

Valencia

 

It took 2 hours to get to the heart of Valencia.  Firstly by panda and then local train.  Of all the tourist offerings, we jumped a big red bus to take in historical (red route) and then Maritime sights (blue route).  Valencia has two distinct personalities.  One is bright, ultra-modern and very trendy.  The other is a medieval, cobbled and ornate.   I’m not so sure they really complement each other but then, that is just a personal opinion….

Modern architecture through dirty bus windows...

Our first bus ride took us around the outskirts of the old city into newer areas; Valencia is proud of its participation in the America’s Cup (2007) and other recent world class events, so a greater portion of our historical tour took in high rise (fancy) hotels, vast shopping malls and giant theme parks – all the best in Europe.   The blue route took us down to the port to see a large but nearly empty Marina Real, host to the America’s Cup challenge; the Formula 1 race track and then into the furturistic Cuidad de las Artes y las Ciencias.

This huge complex, designed by one of Spain’s eminent architects, sits in a portion of the old Turia riverbed.  It is home to an art museum, a science museum, an IMAX cinema and an enormous aquarium.  It was Monday; only the aquarium was open.  Back then into the old city, only to find the Museo de Bellas Artes with its enticing collection of El Greco, Goya, Velazquez and other Spanish old masters was closed too.  It was Monday….

 

The old city sits wrapped by an amazing green cloak, the Jardines del Turia.  It is 9km of cycling paths, playgrounds, athletic fields and pretty green parks.  This all sits over the Turia riverbed, diverted after flooding caused immense damage some years ago.  Two grand stone gates (14^th c) once faced this river and are now all that remain of the old city walls.   One turns toward Barcelona, the other Madrid.  The latter is pitted from cannon ball firings – Napoleon at his destructive worst (again).

 

We took a quick turn around the plaza in front of the Cathedral, forgetting to go in to find the Holy Grail.  Very near to this square, in 138BC, Roman soldier-settlers founded Valentia and Castilian knight El Cid fought his best in 1094 to take back the city from the Moors.  However, the turistico-ing KIPS & Motleys were starting to show signs of their own rebellion, so we followed the well-marked walking trail through quiet leafy streets back to the train station.  On route, we did stop for a photo or two of an amazing rococo building (closed), the neoclassical Town Hall, a sparkling main Post Office building and took a slightly closer look at the Plaza de Toros (probably closed).

 

We had walked away from Estacion del Norte earlier, failing to notice its impressive façade (1917).   Had our train not been leaving in 3 minutes, we may have taken photos of the main foyer, also highly decorated with mosaics and murals.  Meanwhile we amused the locals with a Pythonesque dash up and down platforms trying to find our train back to Cullera and a waiting panda.

Cramming Spain

By now the post dump has begun.  We’ve snagged a spot (Altea) where the internet actually works and have taken a few days for admin, re-conditioning and re-provisioning, as we must.  So here’s our story so far:

Well, someone has to do it for the team....

We’ve had some long sailing days, been busy touring when in port and somehow managed to fit in time for a few chores.  It has been too cool to swim yet, although here in Altea, we’ve managed at last to cast off jumpers and work on a bit of a tan.  Club Nautico (our marina) has been a little home away from home that we’ve really appreciated.  Altea has a busy restaurant-lined promenade, a rather nice beach surrounded by mountains and friendly locals.  It also was once the place where Scipio landed and sacked the Greek colony of Honosca, so it’s been around for a little while. 

WJ3 living the high life

Spain has a seeming endless coastline with a sugar crust of tourist development between rocky mountains, fertile valleys and clear deep blue seas.  We‘re wondering if this is to be a Med syndrome or peculiar to Spain.  Either way, its tourism unrestrained!  We would prefer to meet locals and entertain them with our less than adequate language skills but it’s not always possible.  It’s nice to know what makes one country different to another, especially in a close-knit community like Europe. We will have to dig a little deeper.
 

Althea has a busy fishing harbour too

Some things in Spain don’t change for tourists however.  We set out for breakfast one morning – a nice early 8:30am start.  Not another soul was about.  Finally at 10am we noticed a first rush of coffee drinkers.  Well after 10.30, a nearby café opened on the marina docks.  We dashed for a table, famished! 

Lunch is said to be a major meal of the day, so it starts after 2, perhaps 3.  Shops close after mid-day for hours – opening at 5ish…   Restaurants are full and wonderful cooking smells come from village homes.  Dinner then, is at 10pm.  We’ve dined on paella, mussels steeped in fresh tomato sauce and oddities like crumbed sea urchin.  As one must.  We’ve also snacked on a few tapas, small serves of interesting things to have with a wine or beer….before dinner, after dinner, when-ever. 

Altea from a distance

Local sailors are friendly too.  If you ever meet Tony the Sailmaker buy him an orange juice on us.  Without his help and advice (not to mention a little red panda) we would not have made our planned excursion to Valencia.  These are the moments that make travelling worthwhile.

From:  Almerimar, Spain Lat/Long:  36:41.87N 2:47.53W Date/Time: 19/06/13: 1005

To:  Altea, Spain Lat/Long: 38:35.313N 0:03.297E  Date/Time: 21/06/13: 1800
Time Taken: 194nm (30hrs) Distance (this year): 553.5nm (88hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 11378.5nm   Weather: All points 1-11kts; calm & flat;
Fastest Speed: Motor & a little sailing doing 6.5kts; warming up….finally!

Big Red

Alhambra

 

Generalife Gardens

It is worth mentioning that Granada was once one of the richest and most enlightened cities of its day.  Whilst the Spanish moved to regain territory from the Moors, an independent emirate had been established by the Nasrid dynasty with Granada as its impressive centre.  The Alhambra (Red Castle) dates from 1232, so from here for more than 250 years, princes ruled in great style.  It was not until 1492 that Isabel and Fernando launched the final crusade of the Reconquista, and Granada surrendered.  All in time for the Inquisition, a 300 year long bloodbath....

 

Patio de la Acequia (Court of the Water Channel)

Our guide Francesco, would lead us on a two & half hour foot sore, camera snapping tour of this UNESCO World Heritage listed complex.   We were not the only ones that day; some 7500 visitors enter the complex daily.  We were given our appointed time to visit the Palacio Nazaries with no chance of last minute changes.  Everything seems strictly controlled; we showed our entrance tickets on at least 5 occasions.  Francesco had done this tour before and we had every confidence in him to explain every inch of this warren of palaces, fortifications, gardens and terraces!  

Summer Palace - we weren't alone

We began with a stroll through the eastern side of the fortifications to the Generalife Gardens (architect’s gardens) with its delightfully restored terraces prolific with flowers, splashing fountains, rills and pools attached to a small summer palace. Breathtaking views, framed by the palace’s graceful architecture, took in these colourful gardens, historical Albayzin below, green valleys of olives & orange groves beyond and a snow-capped Sierra Nevada.  Above the summer palace, woods of cypress and elm were once royal hunting grounds.

Jardin de la Sultana (Sultana’s Garden) with a
700 year old cypress & tales of secret trysts & beheadings
(not to mention great views)

 

After crossing a small footbridge into the fortified area, we moved into the Medina area, now in ruins thanks to Napoleon’s occupation.  The pretty Church of the Convent of San Francisco, now the Parador Hotel, was built on the site of the original mosque.  It was here that Isabel and Fernando were originally buried until they were moved to the more regal Capilla Real (Royal Chapel) near the Granada Cathedral.

Walking the Medina

After momentary pause, our group moved on to the Palacio de Carlos V (1527) a huge Renaissance palace.  Its square, formal exterior opened to reveal an elegant circular colonnaded courtyard.  This grand building is home to two museums and a central, open air auditorium where classical concerts are said to make good use of the building’s excellent acoustics.  Carlos, grandson of Isabel and Fernando, had a wing of the Palacio Nazaries destroyed to have this palace built.  He held, after all, the title of Holy Roman Emperor!  Whilst grand, the building sits awkwardly in company of its Moorish companions with their more modest exteriors.

 

Renaissance Style for Carlos V

Francesco moved us on through Puerta del Vino and into Palacio Nazaries, a rabbit warren of rooms and terraces that lie at the heart of the Alhambra.  Room after room revealed fabulous tiling, intricate wood work, remnants of bright coloured paintwork, blinding white facades, and trickling water features.  We were to learn that successive rulers had ensured the palace was magnificent – fit for rulers of an empire stretching from Gibraltar to Almeria. 

Mexuar (council chamber) and outer limit of public entrance in its day

 

(Patio del Cuarto Dorado (Golden Room))

 

Inside the Torre de Comares, is the
Sala de la Barca (Hall of the Boat)
with its inverted boat shaped wooden ceiling

Salon de Comares

 

Salon de Comares with its domed marquetry ceiling, containing over 8000 pieces of cedar in a pattern of stars that represent the seven heavens of Islam.  Here, the Emirs would have conducted negotiations with Christian ambassadors.

 

The layout of Palacio de los Leones (Lions)
symbolises paradise.  Attractive pavilions sit at each end.

(Alcazaba citadel and watchtower)

 

We “oohhhed” and “ahhhed” our way back to the main entrance to pick up the bus for a thankfully faster trip home.  Granada (of the pomegranates) and the spectacular Alhambra was certainly worth the visit.
  (smaller text indicates space for a few more photos that will happen eventually....)

Caves, Cathedrals & Cavaleros

Granada

 

With a 6.30 am pickup from a nearby hotel lobby, we just knew this was going to be a long day.

 

We began with a quick dash by taxi over the escarpment above Almerimar to our waiting bus in El Roquetas del Mar, the next resort town along.  On the way we couldn’t help but notice extensive plastic greenhouses enclosing fertile Murcian gardens.  They’re probably visible from space!  This area produces a good deal of Europe’s vegetables although you could be forgiven for suspecting something more sinister.  We hardly saw a soul working in them as we whizzed by.

Dang, it's cowboy country.....

Initially the Motley Crew joined a Russian speaking group, however our language skills were clearly lacking.  At a desolate and rocky roadside stop, we were transferred to the English (Dutch, French and German) speaking bus.  This arid location was once used as a setting for many a Hollywood spaghetti western – a perfect choice indeed.  Our final stop was at a super café near Guadix to (thankfully) load up with strong coffee before hitting Granada.   Guadix proved interesting due to the large number of “cave dwellings” in the area.  Houses (and a few swimming pools too) were built back into rocky outcrops.  Some were obvious; others could only be noticed if an antenna or chimney sprouted from a hilly slope. 

Cave Houses in Guadix

Finally we hit Granada, rearing to go (coffee can do that!).  Our guide, Clara, sensibly took us for a walk around town briefly pointing out some of Granada’s highlights before leaving us for lunch in the Plaza Bib-Rambla, once a setting for family entertainments such as jousting, bull fighting and Inquisition burnings.  Now the only head you will lose is your own as you walk through nearby close quarters of the Alcaiceria (Silk Exchange) trying to avoid tourist shops and spending yet more euros. 

Watching over Royal Bones

Inside Granada's Cathedral

We had sufficient time to explore Granada’s Cathedral, a vast and soaring interior that would have scared peasants witless had they been allowed in.  We were treated to a small museum with vestments and crowns perhaps once worn by Isabel & Fernando.  (Were these the ones she hocked to finance Columbus’s voyage to the New World perhaps?)  Certainly any one of the stunning old master paintings would have financed the Motleys world cruising (QE 2 for sure!) for a long time to come.

Exploring Albayzin

Then it was off to explore narrow Carrera del Darro which wound its way through the old Muslim district, Albayzin.  We had impressive views of the Alhambra sitting loftily above us as we meandered along.   At last the narrow street opened out to a wide, sunny terrace where the Crew sat sipping coffee beside a small river, taking in the ambience and preparing for our tour, at last, of the famous Alhambra. 

Uno Americano & three café con leichte, por favor....

The Alhambra is worthy of a separate post (with lots & lots of photos), so read on….

Stop The Boat

Almerimar

Almerimar is famous amongst yachties as a cruising wintering ground – a real Port Velcro.  It is a large marina with surrounding resort complexes, hotels and apartments.  It offers sun, warmth, cheap pub food, tapas on tap (well almost), plenty of wine, a convenient supermarket and a well-cared for golf course or two.  The Motley’s stopped by to check it over as a possible destination for a future haul out. 



Gargantuan greenhouses under the stately (& natural) Sierra Nevada 

 

We were greeted on arrival by the marineros, speaking Spanish at us with gusto.  Fortunately the Sparkles Team chose that moment to hail us from the dock so we all yabbered on in our own languages (yes, kiwi is a language too!) until a sharp directive from El Capitano (the cruel) reminded us of our docking obligations and we got on with the job at hand.

A few Sparkles with our tapas in Almerimar

We used Almerimar to take a little moment of respite on our long journey – the Spanish coast seems endless when moving in day trips – and to try our luck at getting a ticket to Granada’s Alhambra.  In both we were successful.  Even better, a nasty Westerly blew through (a Vendevales) so for a few days we hunkered down and soon had WJ3 covered in flapping washing.  Waste not time (or water) on board, for when in port shampooing hair and washing clothes must be done. 

 

From:  Fuengirola, Spain Lat/Long:  36:32.45N 4:37.02W Date/Time: 15/06/13: 1010
To:  Almerimar, Spain Lat/Long: 36:41.87N 2:47.53W Date/Time: 16/06/13: 1730
Time Taken: 92nm (15.5hrs) Distance (this year): 359.5nm (58hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 11184.5nm   Weather: E5-10kts; no swell; fog near Herradura
Fastest Speed: Motor & a little sailing doing 6.5kts at best  The water is clear to 30+ feet!

Rendezvous with Picasso

Malaga

Getting to Granada from our base in Fuengirola proved a little challenging given our timeframe, so we opted for a trip to Malaga instead.  The city is built around a port probably founded during Phoenician times, has notable Roman lineage, and prospered under Islamic rule.  Our regional bus (a 2 hour trip) brought us into the city centre where we were able to hop off, then hop right on to a big red bus.  Very convenient and no decisions required.  Not before coffee of course, and the KIPS discovered coffee Malaga style.

 

Orientation by bus is fantastic – you can decide what’s worth seeing, schedule a day of sightseeing without walking, sit up high & open-topped to get some good photos and tap into other offers.  The Merry Crew decided to take up an included walking (cultural) tour of the city.  Following our colourful Christina through narrow medieval streets, we stopped briefly to admire the soaring Cathedral, a healthy mix of Renaissance, Gothic and Baroque styles that only the Spanish could put together so well.  Later we learned of Malaga’s Roman interlude, admired strong red walls of the Alcazaba (1057), and wondered why a statue of Hans Christian Anderson was in the centre of town. (We never did find out.)

 

Afterwards, we headed back to the Alcazaba, the palace fortress of Malaga’s Muslim governors to walk double defensive walls, gingerly step up cobbled ramps and then gaze over the busy harbour from high watch towers.  Enough remains to see that internal rooms were once highly decorated and colourful.  Fountains, rills and pleasant, flowered gardens make the Alcazaba most pleasant to roam. 

And I say this nicely - look at the Roamin Ruins...

 

Enough with the old, in with the new!  GS made a b-line for the Museo Picasso Malaga.  Picasso was born in Malaga and is said to have retained a strong affection for the area.  The museum, once the Palacio de Buenavista (same name as the pub on the corner in Mossman), has been beautifully restored, however all eyes were on Picasso’s works.   We were spoilt with a wide selection of his paintings, drawings, ceramics, prints and sculptures - enough to understand the energy and creativity that this man was capable of maintaining through his long life.  Such a treat!

View over Malagar

 

After such a full day exploring, a little sustenance was necessary before undertaking the trip back to WJ3.  We sat under umbrellas in a little square off the main shopping plaza watching the (Spanish) world go by as we sipped beers and nibbled olives.  Ah, wouldn’t be dead for quids…

Right Mrs KIP, time to seriously shop!

 

Bandoleros des Spectacularos

Ronda

Ronda & surrounds

Another of the charming Pueblos Blancos, tiny Ronda sits perched on cliffs 500 ft above El Tajo Gorge.  La Ciudad’s (as it was known then) position was of strategic significance in the 1400’s as Christians fought back the Moors to recapture Spain.  Ronda had been on the front line and its occupation critical; it finally fell in 1485. 

 

This romantic village set high above surrounding plains has since attracted its fair share of shady or notable visitors, including Dumas, Orson Wells and Hemmingway.  Sitting under ancient trees at an outdoor café by the Plaza Duquesa de Parcent we too fell for its charms.  Would an ancient cobbled street be named after us one day?  Probably not….

Meanwhile GS had run off with the waiter....

We decided to take a tour with Alfredo (from the Tourist Office); a comprehensive couple of hours walking in the old city.  We admired a stunning Cathedral built over the site of the original mosque; explored the Palacio de Mondragon (1314), built for Ronda’s ruler  and Islamic in style before taking a closer inspection of Ronda's famous bullring, one of the oldest in Spain (1785).  It was here that the Romero family of Matadors established the technique of modern bull fighting (on foot).  To this day, Ronda celebrates this heritage; Matadors fight in 19^th c costumes with all the associated pageantry.   Sketches from those early days by one of Spain’s celebrated masters, Goya, hang in the museum giving insight into this ritualistic event.

Inside the famous Ronda Bullring

Last year's poster

 

Pueblos Blancos

Mijas

Having survived the journey back to WJ3 we set sail in a fine breeze and headed back to the Spanish Costa del Sol.  We hoped for a little more warmth in the sun as we headed east and found it in Fuengirola (Fwen grrr oh la).  This friendly marina and beach side tourist resort (full of poms) would be our visit base for trips off into the hills to visit a couple of famous white villages, mostly of Islamic origin, dating back as far as 711.

Narrow & very white streets

First, and easiest to reach, was Mijas, a neat, tiny oasis that somehow managed to cling to a steep and rocky hillside.  We were easily able to negotiate our way around narrow, white streets, succeeded in escaping most of the numerous craft sellers unscathed, before finishing up at the old church beyond the bullring.  I imagine one needs to pray rather seriously before stepping in front of a prancing, angry bull.

Belltower

The bullring wasn’t open but a tiny, badly lit museum was, so we paid our dues and ventured in.  Once through the curtain, our gaze was met by vacant glassy eyes of famous conquests who had been preserved for their show of valour in the ring. (Bulls not matadors that is!)  By comparison, costumes worn by handsome matadors were tiny (only in size) but beautifully decorated.  Bull fighting must be quite the spectacle and an art form in one.  We will never see a performance though. 

The first fight is to get through the souvenir sellers...

I'm sure I've seen that man before...

 

From:  Restingar Smir, Morocco  Lat/Long:  35:45.25N 5:20.518W Date/Time: 11/06/13: 0730
To: Fuengirola, Spain Lat/Long: 36:32.45N 4:37.02W Date/Time: 11/06/13: 1645
Time Taken: 60nm (9.5hrs) Distance (this year): 267.5nm (42.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 11092.5nm   Weather: SW10-15kts; 0.5m swell; warming up
Fastest Speed: Motor & sail doing 7.4kts at best