Friday, June 28, 2013

Caves, Cathedrals & Cavaleros

Granada, Spain

With a 6.30 am pickup from a nearby hotel lobby, we just knew this was going to be a long day.

We began with a quick dash by taxi over the escarpment above Almerimar to our waiting bus in El Roquetas del Mar, the next resort town along.  On the way we couldn’t help but notice extensive plastic greenhouses enclosing fertile Murcian gardens.  They’re probably visible from space!  This area produces a good deal of Europe’s vegetables although you could be forgiven for suspecting something more sinister.  We hardly saw a soul working in them as we whizzed by.
Dang, it's cowboy country!
Initially the Motley Crew joined a Russian speaking group, however our language skills were clearly lacking.  At a desolate and rocky roadside stop, we were transferred to the English (Dutch, French and German) speaking bus.  This arid location was once used as a setting for many a Hollywood spaghetti western – a perfect choice indeed.  

Our final stop was at a super café near Guadix to (thankfully) load up with strong coffee before hitting Granada.   Guadix proved interesting due to the large number of “cave dwellings” in the area.  Houses (and a few swimming pools too) were built back into rocky outcrops.  Some were obvious; others could only be noticed if an antenna or chimney sprouted from a hilly slope. 
Cave Houses in Guadix
Finally we hit Granada, rearing to go (coffee can do that!).  Our guide, Clara, sensibly took us for a walk around town briefly pointing out some of Granada’s highlights before leaving us for lunch in the Plaza Bib-Rambla, once a setting for family entertainments such as jousting, bull fighting and Inquisition burnings.  Now the only head you will lose is your own as you walk through nearby close quarters of the Alcaiceria (Silk Exchange) trying to avoid tourist shops and spending yet more euros. 
Watching over Royal Bones

Inside Granada's Cathedral
We had sufficient time to explore Granada’s Cathedral, a vast and soaring interior that would have scared peasants witless had they been allowed in.  We were treated to a small museum with vestments and crowns perhaps once worn by Isabel & Fernando.  (Were these the ones she hocked to finance Columbus’s voyage to the New World perhaps?)  Certainly any one of the stunning old master paintings would have financed the Motleys world cruising (QE 2 for sure!) for a long time to come.
Exploring Albayzin
Then it was off to explore narrow Carrera del Darro which wound its way through the old Muslim district, Albayzin.  We had impressive views of the Alhambra sitting loftily above us as we meandered along.   At last the narrow street opened out to a wide, sunny terrace where the Crew sat sipping coffee beside a small river, taking in the ambience and preparing for our allotted hour, for the tour, at last, of the famous Alhambra. 
Uno Americano & three café con leichte, por favor....
The Alhambra is worthy of a separate post (with lots & lots of photos), so read on….

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