Big Red Alhambra

Alhambra, Grenada, Spain 

Generalife Gardens

It is worth mentioning that Granada was once one of the richest and most enlightened cities of its day.  Whilst the Spanish moved to regain territory from the Moors, an independent emirate had been established by the Nasrid dynasty with Granada as its impressive centre.  The Alhambra (Red Castle) dates from 1232, so from here for more than 250 years, princes ruled in great style.  It was not until 1492 that Isabel and Fernando launched the final crusade of the Reconquista, and Granada surrendered.  All in time for the (self-imposed) Inquisition, a 300 year long bloodbath.... 

Patio de la Acequia (Court of the Water Channel)

Our guide Francesco, would lead us on a two & half hour foot sore, camera snapping tour of this UNESCO World Heritage listed complex.   We were not the only ones that day; some 7500 visitors enter the complex daily.  We were given our appointed time to visit the Palacio Nazaries with no chance of last minute changes.  Everything seems strictly controlled; we showed our entrance tickets on at least 5 occasions.  Francesco had done this tour before and we had every confidence in him to explain every inch of this warren of palaces, fortifications, gardens and terraces!  

Summer Palace - we weren't alone

We began with a stroll through the eastern side of the fortifications to the Generalife Gardens (architect’s gardens) with its delightfully restored terraces prolific with flowers, splashing fountains, rills and pools attached to a small summer palace. Breathtaking views, framed by the palace’s graceful architecture, took in these colourful gardens, historical Albayzin below, green valleys of olives & orange groves beyond and a snow-capped Sierra Nevada.  Above the summer palace, woods of cypress and elm were once royal hunting grounds.

Jardin de la Sultana (Sultana’s Garden) with a 700 year old cypress,

tales of secret trysts & beheadings, not to mention great views!

After crossing a small footbridge into the fortified area, we moved into the Medina area, now in ruins thanks to Napoleon’s occupation.  The pretty Church of the Convent of San Francisco, now the Parador Hotel, was built on the site of the original mosque.  It was here that Isabel and Fernando were originally buried until they were moved to the more regal Capilla Real (Royal Chapel) near the Granada Cathedral.

Walking the Medina

After momentary pause, our group moved on to the Palacio de Carlos V (1527) a huge Renaissance palace.  Its square, formal exterior opened to reveal an elegant circular colonnaded courtyard.  This grand building is home to two museums and a central, open air auditorium where classical concerts are said to make good use of the building’s excellent acoustics.  Carlos, grandson of Isabel and Fernando, had a wing of the Palacio Nazaries destroyed to have this palace built.  He held, after all, the title of Holy Roman Emperor!  Whilst grand, the building sits awkwardly in company of its Moorish companions with their more modest exteriors.

Renaissance Style for Carlos V

Francesco moved us on through Puerta del Vino and into Palacio Nazaries, a rabbit warren of rooms and terraces that lie at the heart of the Alhambra.  Room after room revealed fabulous tiling, intricate wood work, remnants of bright coloured paintwork, blinding white facades, and trickling water features.  We were to learn that successive rulers had ensured the palace was magnificent – fit for rulers of an empire stretching from Gibraltar to Almeria. 

Mexuar (council chamber) and outer limit of public entrance in its day

Inside the Torre de Comares, is the Sala de la Barca
(Hall of the Boat) with its inverted boat shaped wooden ceiling

Salon de Comares

Salon de Comares with its domed marquetry ceiling, containing over 8000 pieces of cedar in a pattern of stars that represent the seven heavens of Islam.  Here, the Emirs would have conducted negotiations with Christian ambassadors.

The layout of Palacio de los Leones (Lions) symbolises paradise.  Attractive pavilions sit at each end. Only a Fountain of Youth was missing...

We “oohhhed” and “ahhhed” our way back to the main entrance to pick up the bus for a thankfully faster trip home.  Granada (of the pomegranates) and the spectacular Alhambra was certainly worth the visit.

Caves, Cathedrals & Cavaleros

Granada, Spain

With a 6.30 am pickup from a nearby hotel lobby, we just knew this was going to be a long day.

We began with a quick dash by taxi over the escarpment above Almerimar to our waiting bus in El Roquetas del Mar, the next resort town along.  On the way we couldn’t help but notice extensive plastic greenhouses enclosing fertile Murcian gardens.  They’re probably visible from space!  This area produces a good deal of Europe’s vegetables although you could be forgiven for suspecting something more sinister.  We hardly saw a soul working in them as we whizzed by.

Dang, it's cowboy country!

Initially the Motley Crew joined a Russian speaking group, however our language skills were clearly lacking.  At a desolate and rocky roadside stop, we were transferred to the English (Dutch, French and German) speaking bus.  This arid location was once used as a setting for many a Hollywood spaghetti western – a perfect choice indeed.  

Our final stop was at a super café near Guadix to (thankfully) load up with strong coffee before hitting Granada.   Guadix proved interesting due to the large number of “cave dwellings” in the area.  Houses (and a few swimming pools too) were built back into rocky outcrops.  Some were obvious; others could only be noticed if an antenna or chimney sprouted from a hilly slope. 

Cave Houses in Guadix

Finally we hit Granada, rearing to go (coffee can do that!).  Our guide, Clara, sensibly took us for a walk around town briefly pointing out some of Granada’s highlights before leaving us for lunch in the Plaza Bib-Rambla, once a setting for family entertainments such as jousting, bull fighting and Inquisition burnings.  Now the only head you will lose is your own as you walk through nearby close quarters of the Alcaiceria (Silk Exchange) trying to avoid tourist shops and spending yet more euros. 

Watching over Royal Bones

Inside Granada's Cathedral

We had sufficient time to explore Granada’s Cathedral, a vast and soaring interior that would have scared peasants witless had they been allowed in.  We were treated to a small museum with vestments and crowns perhaps once worn by Isabel & Fernando.  (Were these the ones she hocked to finance Columbus’s voyage to the New World perhaps?)  Certainly any one of the stunning old master paintings would have financed the Motleys world cruising (QE 2 for sure!) for a long time to come.

Exploring Albayzin

Then it was off to explore narrow Carrera del Darro which wound its way through the old Muslim district, Albayzin.  We had impressive views of the Alhambra sitting loftily above us as we meandered along.   At last the narrow street opened out to a wide, sunny terrace where the Crew sat sipping coffee beside a small river, taking in the ambience and preparing for our allotted hour, for the tour, at last, of the famous Alhambra. 

Uno Americano & three café con leichte, por favor....

The Alhambra is worthy of a separate post (with lots & lots of photos), so read on….